BJoe76

Well, I messed up the original body for my Lunchbox Black Edition when opening the tail lights for the AMPro lights so bad I ordered a new body off eBay, which arrived pretty quick! So after dinner, I started with the mods, got the tail light area opened nicely, side marker lights drilled and cleaned up for the AMPro pieces, mold lines cleaned up…… and then cut the roof out of the old body so I can make a patch panel to fill in the roof of the new body to get rid of that roof vent! I also plan on patching that antenna hole too, then with smooth every thing out and fill the low spots before laying the paint on it!

Don’t know if I’ll ever buy one, but the running video pretty much has me sold on considering it!

Agreed!

Got it put in mine, I swear it drove better just doing mini pulls in the living room and driving in circles, I even left the putty in the rear diff like I originally built it too……is that about right?!

The One Way showed up today, will try and install tonight.

Got the one way for the Wild Willy build in today!

Ok, here’s a couple of the pics I shot yesterday! Aaaaaand, I had an oops, there is now a front one way set on order and the roll bar is going to come off and get bedlined, probably going to do that with the roll bar “lights” too in some manner too.

I’m just wondering what is the best plug to use in the battery retainer box for a stock chassis Clod, I would normally use Traxxas plugs, but those are huge compared to the Tamiya plugs and want to keep some battery interchangeably between my Clod, Lunchbox, and GF-01 Wild Willy, then maybe my M-03 and MF-01x Jimny as well since I may want to change everything but the Clod to some sort of mild Brushless setups and I’ve looked at Deans plugs (once the real things are off back order), XT60s, or EC3/IC3 for power.

Ordered one off eBay, should be here by next weekend!

Ok, I’m even more convinced now!

Looks like my Wild Willy 4x4 build is going to need one of these……

Scratched the paint on Willy🤬

Here’s a couple IG posts from tonight. https://www.instagram.com/p/CQP4fO3jDxR/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link https://www.instagram.com/p/CQP-KmODxgZ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Well, you ain’t wrong 😅

As seen elsewhere, I’m this far on my Wild Willy build, will shoot and post up full pics this weekend! Oh, that just so happens to be the first time I ever painted a face…….ever!

I got to this point on my Wild Willy 4x4 build tonight😁 I’ll shoot some better pics this weekend!

Some of what dannymulder here said is why the SCX24s that Dad and I one are now brushless, I wanted the torque and reliability and Dad wanted the throttle control since it was jumpy with hit 79y/o never used a pistol grip radio and hadn’t used a real handgun since he for I was born, trigger finger. I was aware of those tiny motors burning out “easily”, though I think there was also help from lack of experience in R/C crawling or even R/C in general, and/or stupidity/lack of “mechanical sympathy” for some of them, but still, no brushes, better efficiency, and, being 1400kv outrunners, amazing torque and low speed throttle control! Then you have that outrunner just swinging away under the body that just looks so *******in’ cool too!

Where do you find those Willy figures?!

Yup, it’s been a favorite of my since I bought that Jeep 18 years ago and the guy who runs the shop where bought the paint for this project from also liked it when he looked up his color chip to confirm it was right really liked it too. I’ve also thought this would look good on rounder bodies that the Jeeps that it was available on. Been thinking about having him mix me another can or two for some 1/25 static projects too. I’ve got a few of Revell’s 1970 Charger R/T kits (as well as the F&F Dom’s Charger kit), one of the F&F licensed ‘71 Plymouth GTX kits (the car from the New York heist in the last movie) as well as this whale of a Mopar!

Jeep Moss Green Metallic with Tamiya Flat Clear instead of a gloss clear. It’s what the ‘98 Xj Cherokee Limited I scrapped 15 months ago was painted. It has a good bit of flake and a gold flip to it depending on how the light hits is when it has a gloss clear over it or is painted inside lexan. The flat clear really screws with that though!

Well, Willy is getting closer😁😎

The Wild Willy 4x4 is getting closer, just need to paint the Jerry Can and Willy and finish assembling the body and then this project should be “done”……..for now When I shot this one, I almost put a sign on the table that read, ”Do Not Touch. Willy” I did order some Schumacher 1/10 truck inserts to try and May eventually get oil filled shocks and some sort of brushless in it, just not sure if I’ll use a Tamiya Sensored motor with the stock ESC or put a Sidewinder with either one of their 3800kV motors or one of the more potent Holmes Revolver motors.

Not bad, it doesn’t sand, really, any different that the styrene that ‘57 Chevy is molded in or what I’ve experienced with the Tamiya Hardbodies I’ve also bought in the last year. What I really like is that you can hit it with their little UV light to make it almost immediately sandable vs having to wait for it to cure via evaporation or chemical reaction before you can start filing away! Then there is how you can build it up, that tail fin I’m modifying is built up in layers where I put some down, hit it with the UV light, put some more down, hit that with the light, Wash, Rinse, Repeat until you get it built up to where you want it to start shaping, then add more, UV it, sand, W/R/R there too. I even put some of that yellow 3M tape on that Kustom roll pan and endcap from the model where I wanted the resin to mate to the styrene, once the resin is shaped how I want it and the resin didn’t stick to the tape, which is exactly what I had hoped for there too! The set I bought had 2 “pens” of resin, the little UV light and holster, and a multigrit sanding stick, though I think I just may order the 4 pack of refill pens eventually. The set I have right now was $20 US plus shipping and the 4 pack is more like $39.99, but would last me a while unless I go bonkers on projects like this ‘57 and what I gave planned for an already started Bubbletop Kustom built from the Revell ‘57 BellAir SnapTite kit, which had a crushed roof when I got it.

Experimented with Bondic as a body filler..... I’m liking it so far!

That was the idea, bed liner from a rattle can looks a lot like vinyl in scale, be it a spare tire cover, pickup bed cover, or the top on a car that could be optioned with a vinyl top on it! take a look at this too, this is exactly how I was hoping this color would respond to a matte clear!