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Everything posted by nel33

  1. took the manta for a run on the road today and had good results. its not the fastest speed and it durable... didnt setout to torture test the wing but fate decided otherwise. top speed visually estimated with the sprinter tires is 25-28kmh?? and its a bit sensitive to bumps and ruts. i can try making the shocks looser or adding preload to the springs. it has good turning to the point it tail slides if i dont slow down enough it will become tail happy but could also traction roll. it traction rolls much easier on the pavement and only more extreme turns to that on grass. these tires dont deal that well with long wet grass but can handle pavement really well. one unfortunate bump over a manhole cover at full speed made it do a backflip onto its shell. the front shock towers took the brunt scraping some orange paint from the shocks. the wing fared a bit worse. the wing flexed and picked up minor cracks, the top ridges scraped a bit, one side bottom edge too a light bend and the road rash managed to make contact with the curved wing supported when it slid/flipped onto its back. the wing reinforcement is holding up just fine given the abuse. im more inclined to use this offroad at this point as its easier on the body/wing LOL. a bit of ps silver and metallic blue hides most of the damage. went through one battery and a bit of the 2nd later on. had a small issue of installing the battery door on the body. the battery had 1 layer of masking tape on the big bulge and its tight fit as it is already. the rear tires held on well with no loosening issues. im getting to know the manta each time i run it almost traction rolled it first time i did a hard turn on the road but it didnt flip over. trying to see the speed and turn input to tail slide it will take some time.
  2. Thanks, if only eBay had instant delivery for GPS speed tracker... I'm bring a "care package" along with me including the proper tires to swap back onto it. Bringing 3 batteries and see a battery run test. The drag brake is pulling some power vs other ESC I use.
  3. It's serrated, it's not the perfect fit to say the least but I want to at least see it's speed on the actual road. The Manta spike tires are still new so I'm trying to save the spikes for now. A few good bursts on the road for speed shouldn't hurt much.
  4. got the manta ready for a speed run then saw some technical difficulties... i think i need a different set of tires or thinner hex wheel mounts if i want to use these tires on the manta. it still looks striking nonetheless :). the rear rims are a bit thicker than proper tires so i had to use locktight to ensure it will stay on. these are teh rims i allocated for the TD, hope the rear shaft clearances will be good.
  5. just glued the exterior edge of my yellow associated 2.2" wheels and Jconcept sprinter square tread buggy tires, blue compound. letting the glue dry a bit before i glue the other side, need the tires so i can do tarmac speed runs with the manta. installing the cactus tires with the td kit on the rim is a good workout. got the sprinter tires glued now onto the TD tires. used up one of the crazy 2ml tubes in the process. now my hands smell like new tires...
  6. thank you for the reply, i was worried i might scrap the motor. im not going to risk scrapping this motor this fast on purpose. so those are the ratios under the pinion, how do you interpret the numbers by component? the motor mount is aluminum but the chassis is plastic. im guessing a 21T pinion and high speed gear would be near or past the limit of the current motor? im not a big fan of brushless but it if gets the desired speed then that might be worth the investment. i got enough money sunk into this build so a bit extra isnt strange at this point. its already raining so a bigger downpour doesnt change how wet your clothes get... its Lipo that im not willing to get into, brushless motors arent a deal breaker for me. i was first considering 13.5T motor but wasnt able to find one locally, online has enough choices but the 15T motor was easily ordered locally. i guess a better esc would also be needed to go brushless, the 1080 is brushed motor only. i can easily hit close to 45-48kmh with the slash if i bother to swap the gears out but will do that should i ever need to take it apart for some reason. atleast thats what is advertised. on a side note, why does tamiyaUSA say the highspeed gear set isnt compatible with Manta/Top Force when they say its for TA02 chassis? its a bit weird but im guessing the FDRs might not be compatible?? the LHS has an ESC and 13.5T brushless combo available: HWI38020240 XR10 Justock ESC Justock 3650 SD G2.1 Motor 13.5T - Combo. not sure if thats the best price available on the market but i wont have any shipping costs as in-store pick up is free. i reckon if i go brushless in the manta, i could possibly transfer the 1080 15Tmotor and put a 17T pinion on the td and put the sport tuned on the super sabre... no use in letting the 15t motor and ESC sit in a bag when i could be used elsewhere. i dont trust TBLE 02 escs so freeing a 1060 that would be used on a kit would be useful if the lunchbox esc goes haywire.
  7. thank you for the reply. the gearing stuff is still new to me. im just trying to see if i should worry about burning the motor or not. the esc should handle it fine but the motor is more of a vague answer. a burning esc is a fairly big worry should it happen but a burnt motor is less serious as i could order one easily enough. a melted tub is more serious. im hoping to get somewhere in 35-40KMh at the most and have it to be easily handled. a vid with top force and 2s had speeds closer to 58kmh which is too much for my liking to say the least. that setup was brushless and lipo so its not the easiest comparison. im not ready for that speed limit. i didnt build this car from a kit which is how i came across the current motor/pinion as i wanted something faster than sport tuned. i dont particularly see an internal ratio on the online manual, maybe i missed that part but i can only count the teeth at this point. if the motor is cool enough with 22tpinion and im happy with the speed then it should be optional to go to a higher pinion? the manual has 16-21 pinion options. i will be speed testing the manta in both gear sets to see what difference there is.
  8. how do you calculate the ratios on brushed motors? i see guides for brushless motors but cant find one for brushed motor. im going to install a highspeed gear set on the manta with 22t pinion and would like to see how it will agree with the HW1080. the HW1080 is most likely all good as im running nimh 15t brushed motor and the esc can handle 540,550, 775 series 2s lipo or 30k rpm at 7.4v. the DYN1172 15tmotor doesnt have a RPM limit listed so i need to calculate that. to see where i land with the highspeed gear set and 22T pinion. ive figured out the Spur Gear / Pinion Gear = Gear Ratio easily enough but get stuck trying to figure out the rpm so the FDR is unclear to me. the stock manta gear set is 74T and the highspeed set is 69T and the smaller gear attached to it looks like it has 16 teeth.
  9. My usual place is the Angrignon park and no one has bothered me at any point. There is a park near my places that has some small hill mounts but it's a medium sized park. Not sure how much pedestrian traffic it has. The current setup is 15t motor 18t pinion stock gear set and metal motor mount but I'm going to receive a 22t pinion and high speed gear soon. There is a concern it might be a bit too fast when done but I'm sure I can correct that with the 1080 ESC settings and or manual input. 40kmn would be nice, 50 is too much though it already gets a bit bouncy at it's top speed. Haven't tried shock adjustment yet. The batteries are rather new at this point.
  10. I see yours is likely brushless, did you ever do a top speed test With it? I don't think mine would be faster but still cool to compare. you always seem to find such nice places to run your cars. there might be similar areas in my region but i just might not be looking/finding them... For now I can only compare it to stock 2wd but the specs aren't on equal footing when you compare the 2 kits. the slash is obviously heavier and stock esc has its fixed settings. EDIT: i made an ebay order for a GPS spedometer and made a deal with MICHAELs TopForce17 to even the playing field a bit in top speed. im currently running the stock speed gear set.
  11. got around to some things, the steering servo wire did make contact with the drive shaft. some red paint was removed nothing big but atleast its symetrical. It's top speed is around the same as 2wd slash though a side by side comparison will be needed. the video is crooked as it was the only safe place to put the camera without falling from patio steps was solo at the time so no one to help film it.
  12. Took the 2 cars for a run, my parents weren't home so proper speed tests weren't possible. didnt really drive the slash that much but used it as a speed comparison for today, its the Manta's first run today. the manta motor was a bit underwhelming if I was expecting it to be faster than stock 2wd slash with good tires. The 2 cars aren't fair comparison drivetrain or motor but the Manta has a better punch off the line because the 1080 ESC. stock ESC on RTR 2wd slash. Did a test run in parents backyard to verify EPA had to reduce right a bit more to avoid grinding noise on input shaft contact. Did a side by side run, one TX in each hand and Manta easy won start acceleration. Hoping next time I go that my mom or dad could control the slash and see a top speed run. the motor was fine despite 1 5000mah battery pack on decently long grass. i did the hill climb test 50 degree slope and it climbed just as well as the slash with the trenchers. For the brushed motor I got for the Manta, I'm happy with the result. I'm not looking forward to the TD.... I'm going with 540 sport tuned there so it won't be as fast as Manta. I did flip the car 4x, 2 times land in on tires and sent the rear wing flying off in a 2.5 cartwheel with the 4 tires. I did notice the damage to the wing and some wires that need more zip ties. The wing may not last as long as the body but the wings have a rep for getting a bit mangled over time. The crease is from the 2nd lexan piece I put to reinforce the wing. I don't think the wing would've survived if not reinforced. The bolt/lock nuts were jarred loose. the crease corresponds to the lexan underneath the wing. found some grass creases that gave mild airtime and had a bit of fun. shortly after losing the rear wing i kept going until the battery got low enough that i was going a a decent jogging speed. @Willy iine i think i know who was responsible for ending the era of unicorns...
  13. the manta is done sans stickers for the time being. had to find best arrangement for the motor wiring and general wire retention method. settled on using resistor mount and scrap lexan piece. had to swap the button and RX as the wires got in the way of the body shell too much. the wing looks a bit deformed around the 2 screws but the shoe goo reinforcement makes it a non issue. the aerial is also tucked into the resistor bridge and rests on the wing mount. had to cut down the tube 3 times so no hot spots/bends become an issue. its not the full family picture here but the current off road RCs are present.
  14. the manta is done! had to re-arrange the RX and on/off button as the wiring bundle got in the way of the body shell. cant remember where i left the spare lunchbox body pins but i have the pins in a tiny tea screw tin container. used 2 of them for the time being. added some partially compressed styrofoam for the body mounts cushions. dont have the stickers yet done but the one in the pic is going on that area the resistor cutout used to be on OG models. im going to go to the park with slash and manta and see which is faster 12tmotor and stock gearing vs 15Tmotor 18T pinion manta. i decided to let the aerial gently rest on the wing mount as i dont like the aerial tube to be a future concern. i would like to throw the gauntlet to Ferruz one day and see if i can beat his manta LOL
  15. yeah, i usually look for servo straining and obvious physical clearance limits. the range i got is fairly good.. not sure if i can put more right adjustment but its fairly close to the bouncing near the end of the current setting. you know that movement where you see the servo arm go too far and retract a little bit. i got it just right there at the limit. another 5% on the left makes it too close to gear box input shaft. looked at pics of @Ferruz manta ray for ideas on mounting the electrics in the chassis. put the 1080 in the tub after taking small scrap of lexan drilled 2 holes and placed motor wires inside the bridge to hold a OG resistor. now the motor wires are still fairly loose but wont shake out or get damaged from vibration. still need to do the RX and on/off button but they will go on ESC tray. Edit: i got the manta done. added the rear bumper just cause i could. waiting for hte battery to cool down, hade to verify it was full charge. just need to install wing and shell but cant do that until i wait for camera batteries to charge up. got 2 camera batteries and one is dead and i have habit to wait until 2nd is dead to charge the 2... i didnt put a hol for the aerial no the manta, just ran it along the body to end on the wing.. had an aerial tube that i got from lunchbox i would guess, cut a length down and test fit it to good length. shouldve put the receiver the other way as the 2 cable inputs put the tube to the side a bit but no harm done. i dont know if its the most tidy wire placement job but its fairly neat.
  16. so i cant let my guard down with self tapping screws either, no damage done but a good warning to myself. i decided to 2x check the manta for driving operation, success but i noticed 1 thing missing when i reinstalled the rear gear box: the driveshaft... it drove fine on 2wd anyway LOL instead of messing with rear box again with the shallower machine threads i went for th efront gear box. 4 screws later and 1 backed off, i managed to swivel it enough to fit the shaft. one top screw was entering deeper than the other in my haste?? removed it and placed a 2.5mm washer under it. no apparent lasting damage and the thing is solid on the chassis. i only caught thi today because i just remembered that i didnt set the EPA on it yet and found it weird it suddenly became 2wd. LOL. the EPA are now set, 65% right, 50% left. my servo is a 270 degree model and the only thing preventing me from going higher left % is the parts that hold the driveshaft to gear box. got is very close but far enough it wont hit the aluminum part on driveshaft receiver/cap? (forgot the right term.) now to see where i will place the electronics.
  17. the box i got mine in was visibly deformed too. i thought it would be more damage to the body but i was spared any ugly white crease lines. just a raised window contour. i dont think my LHS had this body shell either so RCmart it was.
  18. creases from bad handling/shipping are ver annoying. my FD3s body that i need to continue to trim and cut was squeezed horizontally. it was packaged well enough but too many heavy items around it. left a crease on center bottom front window... nothing huge but its there. i wasnt planning to use the "rubber seal" stickers but they might help to hide it much better.
  19. the money pit known as the TT02D GTR R33 body shell. put 3-4 recent kits worth of money into that one chassis with spare rims tires, body, spare parts trees. i also just sunk another $36 into buying 2 sets of tires so i can replicate Mako/Sayuki's Initial D sileighty body and rims... i got plenty of stuff for that one kit and i dont drive it much lately... its all the quarantine's fault, wasnt able to go to the arcade to drive my wine red R33 on maximum tune 5. the logical choice i made after talking with coworker also into RC was to replicate that GTR to something i can drive whenever i want and not play the game in one location. still go to the arcades to this point but this tt02 let me fall into the rabbit hole...
  20. Small update, the scarfed threads were drilled out and I secured the top with machined threads 3x14mm. Self tappers on the bottom and the rear gear box is solid. Need to secure the electronics and let it rip now.
  21. Dropped by LHS picked up hardware 3x10mm screws machined and self tap variety. Got 2 paint tins red and semigloss black for the Gundam paint supply. Bpught 1 can of red mica TS so I would be able to paint blue boomerang parts red. Not sure if Italian red was a better match ie brighter but red mica is a tab bit darker than the red sabre parts. Not a huge issue really.
  22. Those are so much closer ie 90% match. The ideal has the inner area more vented but the star pattern mesh is pretty much spot on. Hopefully I will be able to find some easily. the one im trying to match is this pic. not sure about the lighting of the pic if it makes it look more brownish in color but you cant exactly order some BBS RM rims for 1/10 scale rc cars LOL. if i can find this set of rims i will be rather happy. i got the same shell for the TT02 and a suitable blue paint for it. the body shell i have has the stock front bumper but that is just fine. EDIT: there was a sale on the 26mm rims on RCmart so i ordered 2 sets so i have a spare set if a rim breaks. i probably wont use the plastic rims much as i dont run them on actual roads but proper smooth surfaces are all i would dare run plastic rims on. i currently have 6 sets of rims/tires for the TT02 not including the 2 i just ordered. of all the sets i have, 2 are aluminum sets.
  23. i can see the horizon with my manta. decided to stop procrastinating on working on rc when i get home at 11:30 pm. usually have the excuse of "wait until sunlight". i drilled out the bad threads on the chassis rear mounts. installed 3x14mm machined screws on the rear top mounts. there isnt as much meat on the plastic as there was before but the bad threads were mostly removed. took a few minutes to slowly screw the top ones down so there was no gap. tamiya self tappers on the bottom with 2.5mm washer under the head. the rear gear box is now solid. i could possibly try tighten the top screws a bit but would rather not strip them again... will need to monitor the gap after runs but gentle prying doesnt show a gap. when the sun comes up i will place the ESC and receiver and then see what he can do (not a she, its named Depth Charge ie male transformer). i will go to LHS today ie thursday to pick up the traxxas self tappers and 3x10mm machined screws to replenish my mostly depleted stock of YR screws and some red paint to fix any blue boomerang parts that may need painting in the future.
  24. the rusty wheels are starting to turn for UK and TD. i DID get the 04 ESC with my TD kit, unless they mucked around with packaging in the factory.
  25. thank you for the reply, that gold center multi mesh is the style i would like to have. i got a plastic gold plated 12 spoke set for cheap to pair with the sil80 body. aluminum sets would be preferable in some cases but for smooth surfaces plastic works fine. i usually use aluminum ones after OG kit plastic drift tires broke after 10 min of mostly smooth asphalt... now its either rubber tires and plastic or aluminum rims with drift or rubber tires.
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