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nel33

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Everything posted by nel33

  1. ive made some changes to my 2 sets of these rims. the mono color are running drift tires, the red rimmed ones are going to run soft rubber compound. i dont know how long they will last on asphalt but there is one way to find that out fast. depending on the answer might have to find a harder rubber compound. the bronze will look nice on your kit, i chose purple as they were in the first 2 amazon pages and the other colors hidden further back... my only big flaw with these rims are they have a super tight fit with drift tires, technically that's good but removing them is annoying if you dont have the tools. the MST tire tool kit was insufficient to remove the new treads by hand (one tire was lucky but the other 3 werent...), i had to get 2 1/8 aluminum plates and a automotive C clamp to remove them. though since they are aluminum rims you dont need to worry about over boiling the rims :). maybe the the combo of aluminum and plastic make some sort of thermal issue along side the tight fit to remove it by hand. a good screw driven tire removal kit or just C Clamp + special tool are a must IMO. i put boiling water into a metal bowl and they didnt come off easy like plastic rims.
  2. just checking some info on the 2021 Thunder Dragon posted on Tamiyabase thats avaialble ATM. Power supply with motor: Tamiya running battery (sold separately) RC mechanism used: Tamiya electric RC drive set (sold separately) in addition to a likely high price a Battery isnt included (not big issue for most people that have extra batteries). if i translate it correctly does the RC mechanism refer to a radio control transmitter? i got a Tactix ttx300 that is fairly good (and no antenna needed) on my TT02, so i guess another one would need to be purchased?
  3. those looks alot like the set i got with drift tires on them. mine are purple but the same 5 spoke design.
  4. for the time being thats more of a dart board price estimate but id be OK with it if it had great updated electronics. if its just a copy paste of the vintage one then the price is a bit harder to accept but i wouldnt put it past myself. i really like the design and some upgraded electronic dont seem too expensive to get for it. i wonder how much the vintage set cost when new back in the day... the Fire Dragon on TamiyaUSA is going for $259 USD, id say $280 USD/$356CAD is a fairly reasonable estimate to expect for the Thunder Dragon. Canadahobbies is listing the 2020 Terra scorcher at $420 CAD but with a 25% discount to lower it to $320 CAD. i dont think the Thunder dragon is going to be less than $300CAD when a price is released... im not sure how a Terra Scorcher compares to a TD but the prices are showing a certain pattern so far. there is Canadahobbies and JacHobby, both are Canadian but im not sure where the first is located. Jachobby is the LHS that has RC stuff, another smaller one has a few RC stuff but is now more general toy/hobby shop. im thinking maybe sending Jachobby an email regarding the dragon.
  5. what sort of steps do i need to take to pre order a Thunder Dragon so i can get one? ive never preordered an RC kit, $360 CAD is a pretty decent dent to the wallet but i love the design alot so its probably not gonna be a purchase i will regret. apparently it will be released in may 2021 so its not the most urgent thing but i do want to get an order in. im not sure if L&L models is compatible as i live in Canada so im hoping Tamiya will put something on their site. im thinking Tamiyabase might be the best chance.
  6. the PT cruiser also exists...
  7. got some goodies for the TT02D and the Slash 2WD (yet to arrive) all of the stuff has some work to get done before its ready. im waiting for 40wt Losi oil to come in for the shocks and replace the plastic oil CVAs. the Tamiya connector set and Traxxas parts will need cutting/crimping and soldering to serve as proper connector adaptors.
  8. im not so lucky here. that Thunder dragon looks too darn tempting and i have settled on this mindset for it. it looks too cool to resist, its 4wd and my 2wd slash has yet to come in at this point...
  9. Why did they have to make the Thunder Dragon so darn cool?!! My Slash 2WD hasn't come in yet and a Thunder Dragon costs the same amount of $ as the slash. I'm trying to stay with only 2 RC vehicles for a while and that Thunder Dragon is just taunting me...
  10. that thunder dragon looks sleek, like some planes you'd see in 80s morning cartoons.
  11. how much ground clearance do you currently have? my TT02D has 1/2 inch clearance on both front and back ends. how did you construct your shocks? are they filled with the same oil and have the same spacers installed? are the shocks themselves at the same height when built? the stock CVA shocks that came with mine (didnt use the friction type but they were in the kit) did require a spacer to remove slop on the spring. there are 2 different lower shock mount eyelets you could use 4 standard and 2 long ones. maybe if you put the longer ones on a particular end it might affect it.
  12. did a bit of work to make the MST tire removal kit a bit easier to use. 3 scrap aluminum plates later i can safely use a automotive C clamp on it. i even made/ground down an aluminum square to a disk to have a way to punch or push out stuck rims. its not a perfect fit but some rubber mat section should make for a scratch free removal. EDIT: my new mods to this worked like a charm! i had no permanent mods done to the tool itself. just a round aluminum disk with a rubber piece for paint protection and 2 aluminum plates below and above the the tool for a nice solid point to use the C clamp on. with the extra spacers in the cap the round plate didnt need to be tested to functionality, the drift tire was already +80% removed from the rim. i dont know if a plastic drift tire would survive the gentle prying by hand to finally remove it but it was not an issue with aluminum rims.
  13. it helped that where i work we happen to have some scrap 1/4 aluminum pieces of metal. i got an idea to make one myself and it works nicely though the front tip width could use some fine tuning if needed.
  14. so i got around to making a tool to remove the shocks from the ball mounts. its currently only working on the TT02 as its the only one i have ATM. not sure if the hop up shocks for it will be 100% compatible with the tool but it should work. the slot is a bit under sized but it works well. i can fine tune the tips so there is proper clearance to work on the more tight areas. i decided to paint it a bit but rushed the drying time a bit 17 minutes at the shortest between medium coats of paint and one side was slightly sticky as it was 95% dry so it picked up some paper towel lint. the blister there simply was BC i didnt give the primer longer to dry. i think it turned out fairly well and the red paint will make it hard to miss if im trying to locate it to work on the shocks.
  15. im not running a sensored motor on mine so i havent had an issue like that. my first issue was nothing big other than initially setting the NIMH setting and thats about as many issues ive had with mine. maybe more experienced members here will have a solution for your problem. unfortunately m not familiar with the setting with sensored motors. maybe a pin somewhere might be damaged if its not the cable thats giving issues.
  16. did you switch from Lip0 to NIMH battery? it comes default in Lipo mode and you have to switch the battery settings to use the battery of your choice.
  17. Are there any tips on using a NST tire removal kit? I got aluminum rims with drift tires that I want to remove for rubber treads. I've used the same tread for plastic rims but I only had to heat up the treads before installing them. The ones on the rims are loose but a very tough job to get them off the bead. Room temp tires are too hard and I'm not sure heating them will make it easier but will try in a few. I'm just wondering if a tight fight or some rim tape/adhesive is getting in the way. A threaded device might have been useful to remove it but it would need to be strong and good quality. Edit heating it for a min worked wonders though removing the rim from the cap is something without damaging paint. The rim was pushed off fast enough that the aluminum rim was partially mounted to the cap... the 5 spoke design makes it hard to use the 2 pin holes on the cap to the rim down without damaging the paint or sliding off. sorry if the pic is blurry but it works to tell the tale. im just scratching my head and trying to look for a safe way to remove the rim from the tool without too much paint damage... i just have no good ideas aside from taking a vice grip to the back of the spokes for the time being... i just put the plastic cap in boiling water for 10 seconds and it was enough to expand it a bit to remove the im but thats a rather annoying issue to have. im gonna a head ache trying to dismount the other 3 drift tread, its hot that easy at times. i think i need to go a bit more extreme to get the thing removed, 2 small metal plates and a good large 2 clamp might do the trick... how do you differentiate the proper way to place the yellow tool insert?
  18. hop ups arent the only excuse not to run a RC. even a nice paint job can have that same effect... i know that personally.
  19. wow, what a douche move on jackarse's part. i understand buying something to run or become a display item if you dont get around to building/running it. scamming his way into a $1200 pay day is such a D move.
  20. this isnt that expensive but i already have 17 Gundam kits (3 1/00 scales and the rest 144). most of these kits cost from $35 to $60 and since im a sucker for a certain model i try to get most scales and i dropped $75 for a master grade kit but im just glad it doesnt have a Perfect grade, those can easily break $150 without a sweat. i put a fair amount of money into this already and havent regretted any even though i have a 3-4 kit backlog. the slash 2wd and TT02d are the most expensive kits i got and i dont regret them, still waiting for the slash to come in... i havent been into RC for long enough for it to get as far as my other hobbies yet. currently around $1,200 combined so far. now why did i feel so compelled to calculate all that?? i wish i never did that just now.
  21. my MST tire tool kit took just under a month to arrive, my FD3S 1/10 body should arrive arrive by feb 4th if its anything close to my first order but they havent yet updated the body from its "picked" status since jan 6th, it was shipped then picked on jan 6th so hopefully it wont take too long
  22. i got a few things in, Tamiya to Traxxas male connectors, 40w DC TO AC Traxxas converter (can carry that with the truck when needed and not rely on actual car battery) and the MST Drift tire remover kit came in. i can finally install rubber tread tires onto the aluminum rims. i just wonder if i should warn up the drift tires a bit before trying to remove them. i just love how confusing product pictures can be online, atleast i have some traxxas connectors that can be soldered to be of use once i find the right connectors to add them onto. maybe the Tamiya connectors can be disassembled...apparently female Tamiya plugs are harder to remove. a standard ball point ink cartridge is enough to slide onto the pins and thus remove them. i gotta try that out. EDIT: it works rather well, i got 2 female Tamiya plugs removed from the male Traxxas adpator wires without cutting or soldering. no damage to the connecting pins that i see but without having a male Tamiya plug im not sure how solid the reinstalled plug connections will be. I will try it when another set of connectors with male Tamiya and female Traxxas come in. at the very least i removed the wires without damaging the plugs so i can solder a new pin on it in worst case. edit 2, i tried a small 0 flat driver to push the locking arms/flares to easily remove the wires safely without damage and a modelers scalpel/knife to restore the angle for the locking flares. i also managed to save the pins with bent flares to something useable for the future.
  23. i had an idea while i was at work today, i remembered we have a bunch of scrap pieces of 1/4' aluminum that can be used for small repairs at work. i was looking at the price of some RC tools and then factoring the time and shipping cost related to it and decided to take a scrap piece of aluminum to make this. i got the taper about right but the gap/slot for the ball mount has yet to be measured and dremeled into something that works. its not pretty but if it works then it save me time and money. if it doesnt hold up then i can always order one from ebay.
  24. Thanks, I stand corrected. I haven't had a chance to use anodized color paints yet. I used a scrap lexan pieces to test out the combos ie the wheel cut outs and flat flanges. It ended up only being 2 door panels worth of surface to test what layer count I needed for all the colors I was using on the proper body she'll.
  25. correct me if im wrong but most of the PS paints are translucent to an extent. i havent done too much painting RC bodies but ps-49 looks like a lighter blue rather than a darker one. from my limited experience any color that isnt inherently dark or on a lighter shade will only get overpowered by the black backing. unless the ps49 has a very strong and solid color then the black will just over power it. if the light blue hue is to be preserved a silver sound better. a black can work if its the right amount, any more and it will overpower. it will take skill i admit to get the right balance with a black backing.
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