Nickaford

Thanks - body painted now - just need to read up the articles on rectifying small paint bleeds. I haven’t put anything on the tyres - they are just new!

It joins my original Frog from 1984 on the shelf

Final parts arrived so have finished the RR re-build. Just need to buy a body kit and some paint!

Thanks - I’ve just seen a photo of a silver can sports tuned in an original gear casing - I’ll give it a go.

I am getting close to finishing the renovation of an original SS / RR chassis and have come to the motor. I have read that the old black endurance motors fit, but I ha e found that it only fits with a bodge as the motor cover doesn’t align correctly meaning that the rear guard doesn’t fit. So - my question is - what motors will definitively fit in the original gear casing without modification? I have read that the sport tuned will, but have also read that it is only the original sport tuned. Hoping for some guidance to get this old car running! Thanks

Update - I got new UJs and replaced all of the bearings in the gearbox and on the drive shafts and everything seems much better. The one shaft is still a bit bent - I have tried to straighten it without any luck, but I have found a pair of original shafts on ebay which are on their way. next issue is that I couldn’t get the ball end to screw into the one front arm - pair of new ones ordered for Trigger’s broom 😂

Thanks Kev - I’ll have a tinker. The video is showing up for me as a “play” arrow. The UJs that I have found are silver coloured and about £8-9 each. Not sure if they are from the Super Champ though - the description says Pareto, Buggy Champ and SandScorcher. I’ll have a search for Super Champ - thanks

UJ movement in video attached - is this normal or worn out? IMG_2440.MOV

Right - the results are in! Right shaft is a little bit bent. There is a little bit of movement at the gearbox output, but not very much. The UJs seem to have a lot of lateral movement (although I have never seen new ones). I will pop new bearings in the gearbox and suspension arms as a starting point. is it possible to straighten a driveshaft? If not, has anyone got a spare original driveshaft (with the hub mounted on it)? Alternative would be to buy a pair of re-re shafts and hubs and lose a bit of the “original”. Next step, if that doesn’t help will, I think, be a pair of UJs. Thanks for the tips!

Great tip - thanks kev

Thanks - the ball bearings were a bit of a mess when I took the gearbox apart - I had to give them a good clean and there was some rust on the outsides. I can’t remember how tightly they fitted into the case. I’ll take it apart and check - it will give me something to do while I am waiting for screw bag B to arrive next week which is holding me up at the moment! I am short of some bearings for the wheels and had to steal some from my Frog so might buy a load to replace the old ones.

Great - thanks for the advice - I haven’t replaced any bearings - they are all the ball races that came with the chassis. Another question - I have noticed that the right rear suspension arm has a socket on the inside which looks about the same size as the bearing space on the outside, but the left arm doesn’t - is that strange? Have I got a non- matching pair?

Hi - I connected up a motor to my RR restoration project this morning and found that there was a lot of wheel wobble. The shafts are the mk ones with the hubs attached so not easy to see how straight they are. There is some play in the uj (original brass). Befire I start spending money on re-re replacement parts, can anyone suggest if the problem is likely to be the uj or the shafts? For what it is worth, I suspect the ujs...so might start there. Any suggestions welcome - this is getting to be a money pit!

Dampers, screw bag, rubber parts bag, cam locks, pinion gear bag and servo saver for my Rough Rider restoration / re-build. Going to be tricky to focus on working from home with all of those parts to fit!

Tinkering done - still not a huge amount of damping but at least not rigid! Thanks for the advice. Waiting for the postman now!

Thanks - I’ve got the o rings from the re-re dampers on the way so might try popping them in

Thanks Kev - these are particularly brutal! Looking at the new ones I bought, there is a 90 degree angle between the directions of the two ends - these originals have 180 degrees!

Thanks - good to know. In the spare parts I have bought, I have a new torsion bar and new front springs - am I best to use the new (re-re) ones or stick with the original which may have relaxed a bit over the years?

Thanks guys - just need to defeat the urges to tinker with the car instead of working! This is becoming obsessive!

Thanks - I’ll give it a go - didn’t realise too much oil was a problem! Looks like I need to find the sweet spot. I’ll have a look later - probably find that the oil has all leaked out anyway!

I broke the rule I had set myself for a monthly budget for parts for my Rough Rider restoration. Thought I could make the project last by limiting to £30ish per month. The chassis arrived for ebay on Saturday, I have dismantled, cleaned and reassembled and have spent £160 on parts so far!

Wow! Amazing detailing! My Frog driver is lucky to have eyes - let alone eyebrows!

I’m working on the build up of my newly acquired mk2 (mainly, I think) RR/SS chassis and have hit a problem with the front dampers (different problem with the back ones as I don’t have any!). I have cleaned and reassembled the dampers and have used ptfe plumbers tape on the threads of the cylinder ends to try to keep some of the oil inside which seems relatively successful. The problem I have had is when the cylinder is full and I have got rid of the air bubbles, and I reassemble, the damper won’t compress at all - it is completely rigid. If I then remove some of the oil, there is no damping at all. Is this just part of the joy of the SRB experience, or is there a knack to the set up? I have a set of re-re dampers on the way as I need some for the rear, but it would be nice to use the originals if I can. Thanks in advance.

Kev - if you want to sell any, I’ll let you know what I am after once it has arrived. Thanks Nick

Thanks Kev - whilst I would like it as original as possible, I think it is better to have re-re and operational rather than original that don’t work!