Nickaford
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Posts posted by Nickaford
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Thanks - unfortunately I think you are right. It won’t be the BEC as I only have one servo / I’m running this in a Wild Dagger.
I’ll pop the ESC into my Optima which has a 13t Reedy motor which should be fine with the limit and see what happens!
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3 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:
Throw it away and get an 880, unfortunately you have a bad 860. Seems to be a common problem. I've had quite a few bad 860s.
This might be helpful if you want to bother fixing it -
It’s an 880 that I’ve got! If a cap pack would help I’ll get one 👍🏻
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So - I got myself a second torque tuned motor - 25T, I believe, and fitted them. All was good for about 5 minutes and then it cut out. Any other ideas - I think I have a duff ESC.
I have a 13t motor in another car - I might try the ESC with that and see if it fails.
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48 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:
You're right!
Never noticed that before, just looked at the turn limit (and the 4s capability...), and as its a dual esc, it would be for each of the 2 motors!??! 🙈
I've run the 15t firebolts on 3s with the 1060, and they've been fine (although the motor got hot and smelly....)
I do wonder if it might be better with a lipo - only problem is - I don’t have one - or a charger!
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1 minute ago, Wooders28 said:
The 860 is a 12t limit?
I've run the 860 with a pair 15t firebolts on 2s for years, and they've not missed a beat.
The 880 is also a 12t limit, but the manual says that if you are running dual motors, the limit is doubled - so 12t single but 24t dual.
It is odd because a number of people on here have posted that they have successfully run 15t motors on an 860 or 880. Mine is in a Wild Dagger - don’t know if the gearing puts more load on the motors / ESC?
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2 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:
Perhaps your ESC is set on lipo mode which cuts out when one cell drops below 3.5ish volts..
A ni-mh will drop under load and cause the ESC to cut out.
Look up manual, turn off lipo mode?
1 hour ago, Wooders28 said:Nimh won't provide enough current to cut it out.
I can only guess its lipo cut off? Nicad / Nimh run at close to lipo cut off voltage.
Right - thought I had made a breakthrough! Checked with the program card and it was set to Lipo 🤦🏼♂️, however after I changed it to nimh, it still cut out. I have tried all settings on the low voltage cut out setting and it still cuts out - even if I disable the cut out.
Conclusion - the turn limit issue must me the cause and others have been lucky!
Thanks for the help!
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13 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:
Nimh won't provide enough current to cut it out.
I can only guess its lipo cut off? Nicad / Nimh run at close to lipo cut off voltage.
Even if the motors are outside of the turn limit?
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I’m sure that I set it to nimh - I’ll double check
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20 hours ago, 87lc2 said:
I don't think there are any settings that would help, sorry to hear you have that issue. You are running the fan that comes with it, right? Other than that not sure what else you could do to keep it cool. Have never had mine cut out with 15t motors on 2s or 3s.
10 hours ago, Wooders28 said:Using the same 2s?
I found issues in some cars, when using a low C rated lipo, the voltage drops under the cut off ,under heavy load.
I thought ,as they where directional motors, they didn't work well in a Clod? (As one motor runs forward, and one runs in reverse)
Thanks for the comments - I am running 7.2V nimh, not 2S. When the car stops, which is very soon after starting - the ESC beeps and cuts out - it’s not overheating as it has only just started. I can only presume that it is the current.
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Thanks for the reply - I don’t seem to have much luck with ESCs - my 1060 went into limp mode constantly with a 13T motor so I added the cap pack.
I don’t suppose I can complain - the specs say that for dual motors it should be 24T+ but it is odd that others have managed it! I’m on the stock pinion too.
I have just tried failing back the punch with the program card but it still cut out. Looks like a pair of Torque tuned motors for me!
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On 12/16/2020 at 12:07 PM, 87lc2 said:
The 880 will handle 2 17t motors on 3S just fine, no worries there. As far as how long the motors will last that's anyone's guess. They should be fine though, they are rated for up to 14.8v input. The motors themselves will be fine, you will just have to replace brushes more often than you would when running on 2S. Anytime you run more voltage the brushes will wear faster, no way around that. I would give them a shot, looks like a decent motor for a Clod.
I have tried 2x CoreRC 15T motors with my 880 and it cuts out (although someone on the forum has managed to run 2x15T Firebolts on an 860). Are there ESC settings that can reduce the chances of it overheating? Thinking about the punch setting - if that is turned down, would that reduce the current draw on acceleration?
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Hi Cephas
Reply to an old thread - what ESC were you running with the 12T 550 motors? I read on one of the threads about 2x15T HPI Firebolt motors being run off a Hobbywing 860 but I have just tried 2x CoreRC 15T motors with my 880 and it kept cutting out.
Based on the motor limits on the 880, I can see why it cut out, but others seem to have managed it!
I am trying to get a bit more speed out of it and the best idea I can come up with at the moment is 2x Tamiya Torque Tuned to keep inside the turn limit of my ESC (24T as two motors) but that isn’t going to set the world on fire!
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Hi
I have just picked up an old Reedy Ultra Series motor off EBay and one of the endbell screws is missing.
The other one measures as about 2.5m x 7.5mm - can someone confirm the screw size? Definitely smaller than an M3…
Thanks
Nick
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Hi
I have just picked up an old Reedy Ultra Series motor off EBay and one of the endbell screws is missing.
The other one measures as about 2.5m x 7.5mm - can someone confirm the screw size? Definitely smaller than an M3…
Thanks
Nick
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I fitted a pair of 55mm Yeah Racing Big Bore Go shocks to my refurbished Rough Rider. Thanks to whoever on this forum suggested this - one question though - as part of the process of fitting the shocks, you remove the torsion bar - does this have any negative impact on the chassis? Does the torsion bar stiffen and strengthen the chassis as well as providing the spring for the rear suspension?
I was thinking of some 70mm shocks for the front as well but the Yeah Racing ones are too wide to fit past the front arms. I have found some internally sprung shocks but I think I will see how the back is first.
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Pretty sure I have - but I will check - thanks
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Thanks - really helpful advice - I will check the ESC and chain tension.
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I have just finished building my Optima and have given it a quick run. I have built it stock and am running a Core RC 15t brushed motor with with Quicrun 1060 and 7.2V Nimh batteries.
I am a little disappointed as it feels slow - I ran my original Frog over the same surface (all stock with table-02 and old black endurance motor and “normal” gear ratio) and it is much faster. Is this to be expected or do I have a duff motor or messed up my ESC set up?
When I get some time to fiddle around with it, I will swap over the motors to see if that makes any difference. It is also quite a lot slower than my Rough Rider with a sport tuned motor.
Any thoughts?
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Thanks - really helpful - I hadn’t realised that there were mini Nimh packs - I’ll try one of those - although it comes with a mini Tamiya connector but I guess I can just buy a normal connector and replace it.
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Hi
I have just bought a Schumacher Supastox car off Ebay - without any real research - it was a bit different and quite cheap so I went for it.
Had I done any research at all, I would have seen that they ideally run on 1s lipo (2s shorty will fit).
I have Nimh in my other cars and don’t really want to splash out on a new charger for lipo. The Nimh hump pack doesn’t fit and the race pack will require some stabilising bars to be removed.
A 5 cell Nimh would fit - but my physics A- level was too long ago - what is the difference in performance between a 6v and 7.2v battery pack on the same motor?
I am not planning to race - I just want it to be working and go at a reasonable speed.
TIA
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4 minutes ago, mike in pa said:
Oh c'mon man, no antenna? LOL
I do need to get one 😁
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1 hour ago, Willy iine said:
Very nice!
I don't know about the chassis, but the bar does not look out of place at all.
Thanks - it looks ok from the outside but the roll bar is in the wrong place!
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Finally complete! Thanks to Jonny Retro’s painting and decal tips on Tamiyabase. I have to say that I am pretty chuffed with the result as a novice 😁.
The only thing to sort (apart from the rear dampers !) is the rear body clip - it is about 5mm out and so the clip doesn’t fit around the roll bar - possibly an issue with mix of original and re-re components?
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Super Clod with powerful motor?
in General discussions
Posted
Well - I’ve put it in the optima and plugged everything in and it is just beeping 🙈