Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Prospek

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'll give the 55t a go and then hopefully should be able slow it down with D/R if needed while keeping reverse functional.
  2. Hi All, I have just build my little boy a comical Avante and I want to let him loose with it in the back yard. Issue is he is still only 3 years old so I would like to basically be able to keep it at crawler pace until he is a bit older. I am using the Tamiya ESC and silver can motor with a Dumbo RC TX. Using the dual rate dial doesn't really work as the minimum end point on the throttle D/R is still sort of high meaning it still goes at a slow jogging pace and the reverse function stops working. Any tips to slow it down? Is there a way to do it with resistors to the motor that can then be easily removed? Thanks.
  3. It looks like there are quite a few metal ball ends made for crawlers that would fit the control arm thread. May see how they compare to the genuine Tamiya piece..
  4. I was using shock shaft pliers to tighten them where possible and the damage on the front is just from me trying to pop the ball back in with small multi grip pliers. Totally understand wear and tear could cause this eventually but it was only 5 packs of which about half were doing laps around the grass back yard. I have had a few small crashes but nothing that would explain the looseness in most of the front end joints. Anyway i'll replace them and see what happens, I can't imagine there would be an aftermarket solution for those of us that want to run this buggy.
  5. Hi All, Has anyone had any issues with the suspension ball ends failing on their Avante 2011 ReRe? I have ran about 5 packs (2S) through my new build Avante and almost immediately began noticing play in the ball ends. One of them has now popped out completely and I can see it will soon happen to a few others, popping the damaged one back in does not help, it just pops back out. I have just ordered a pack of 4 but they are stupid expensive, I had to pay US$45 for the pack of 4 and I am hoping they are better quality than what came in the kit although I doubt it.
  6. Hi All, Thought I may as well share... I have recently finished an Avante 2011 build and have to say it was great fun. I have built it as a runner that may see a little shelf display time however I always prefer the challenge of running my RC cars hard yet keeping in them in great condition. As I wanted to run brushless I initially tried a Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5t but found the can was too long and just didn't work in the Avante so I ended up using a Hobbywing V10 13.5t. Electrics: Motor: Hobbywing XERUN V10 13.t. ESC: Hobbywing QuickRun Sensored 60amp Servo: SPT low profile. Receiver/Radio: Flysky Pros: Great fun to build. Drivetrain seems to handle the 13.5t brushless system on 2S without problem and is very smooth. Drives great over loose surfaces types and can handle minor bumps and small jumps with ease. Can hit 50kph over gravel and grass with the current setup and stock gearing. I am yet to test on pavement but I don't think it would be much better with the pinion size limits. In my opinion it has to be one of the best looking new or retro RC cars in box art either sitting still or on the move. The cheap SPT low profile servo is absolutely perfect for a 1/10 buggy and about 1/4 of the price of what I have paid locally for a SAVOX low profile servo. Motor ESC temps stayed low on this setup even with extended high speed grass runs. I never measured above 45c with a 32c ambient temp. Cons: Need to use plenty of thread lock and regularly check tightness of fasteners, far more than in more modern RC cars. Suspension geometry is a pain to adjust with the unique design and old school ball links. Even taking the body off is a pain with the need to pop off the strut braces each time. (I can definitely feel the difference if I run without them). Top of the front shocks and the cockpit are very exposed to crashes if you are using as a runner. They don't stay looking new for long. If you want to fit the driver figure then space for electrics is tight. Much of the aluminium quickly becomes pitted with use and does not look great after a few battery packs. Pinion choice is limited. I couldn't fit anything above the 21t supplied in the kit as the gear starts to rub on the housing if you do, I could easily go higher with the brushless setup. The Hobbywing V10 is an exposed motor and I am sure at some point I will have issues with debris getting into the can. Rear end is a bit to stiff, could do with lower weight oil or softer springs in the rear. I don't notice a huge difference with the upgraded steering linkage. Now to get permission from the wife and kids to build my Kyosho Optima Turbo and see how they compare.
  7. I would advise against using a Tamiya TBLM-02S if that is the motor you are looking at. I have just built an Avante 2011 and am using the 10.5t motor and have found the suspension arm rubs on the can using the kit 22t pinion. It may just clear on a smaller pinion but I don't think the ratio would be ideal. Also as the motor wires and sensor cable are rear connecting which makes it is an absolute pain in this chassis, I had to grind the top deck slightly to make it fit. Having said that the performance on 2S was perfect and the car seemed to handle it well. I am about to swap it out with a 13.5t hobbywing with motor wire tabs on the top which will allow to me route the wires in a neater fashion. Also no issues at all fitting the fan under the body even with the driver.
  8. Hi All, I have just built a 2011 Avante and am having issues with the front steering knuckle step screws working themselves loose. Other than drowning them in thread lock are there any tips here? If I tighten them too much the joint will bind and if I leave slightly loose they will eventually work themselves out as the steering is used. It seems like there should be a sleeve in the join. Also yes I am using the spacer in the correct position. Thanks!
  • Create New...