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Prospek

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Everything posted by Prospek

  1. This is a TT02 based rally build where I have tried to get the best performance per dollar as possible. The only Tamiya hop ups are the springs, CVA shocks/springs and steering linkages, rally chassis cover. Everything else is generic e-bay or ali express items, think diff parts, drive shafts and cups, bearings, tires, brushless system, high speed gearing, servo. This TT02 is about a USD $250 build so it would be interesting to see just how much better an XV02 build would be for likely double the price.
  2. My local hobby shop is Metro Hobbies in box hill, their pricing is fair and I have always had great customer experiences from them. Hearns have been gouging on the in demand kits for years, I remember a few years back stopping into their city store as they had a Avante rere in stock..... They were asking $999 for it however Metro had it across town for about $250 less, Hearn's wouldn't budge. Totally their right to ask what they want but needless to say I purchased the Avante from Metro about 45 mins after visiting Hearns and have purchased a load of kits and planes from Metro since then. To be fair Hearns sell plenty of kits at the Aus rrp but it just left a bad taste in the mouth, they tried the same trick at the Top Force Evo launch as well.
  3. With shipping the way it is at the moment the Australian bricks and mortar stores can to an extent compete, certainly with kits anyway although maybe not with eh range of spares and accessories. I think the small local hobby shops no longer have a business model that works however some of the larger ones who have diversified into bespoke toys, lego, diecast, rail and the like and actually provide a good shopping experience still definitely have their place, in-fact my local hobby store is thriving from what I can see. I have been buying Tamiya kits since I was a kid in the late 90's and it has always been hard work, a lot of criticism is pointed at the hobby shops and the importer however at the end of the day Tamiya Inc controls their distribution and the standards of their importers so in reality it is just Tamiya doing it the way they do it. If anything at the moment I am seeing more Tamiya kits on the shelves than ever with my local Hobby Shop openly pointing me to RCmart/RCjaz for spare parts orders. I placed an order for a kit from RCmart back in 2019 and it had a postage price of $35, same kit today has a $200 postage price. It is actually $80 cheaper to buy from my local hobby store here in Melbourne.
  4. The aim is to have something that looks and performs somewhat scale whilst still being durable. I have an Arrma Kraton and a few buggies that will easily bash in the dirt all day long but this build wasn't aiming for that.
  5. So I did end up moving ahead with this build and it is mostly complete. Basically the aim was to build a low cost rally car that would be reliable on mild 2S Lipo/Brushless setup. Comments after about 20 mostly hard battery cycles on grass/dirt/gravel/asphalt all wet and dry: TT02 -58631 - 99 Subaru WRX Kit. - Clearly a beginner kit, not much more I can say. I didn't use the kit body as I am saving that for something else down the line so went with a Killerbody item. Motor/ESC - Good old Banggood special 2050Kv brushless ESC/Motor combo (non sensored). This has been through a few kits now and it has been very reliable for the little $$$ I spent on it originally. Only issue is that there is nowhere to set throttle end points as there is no setup button, I assume you would need a program card or some type. Anyway seems to work fine with a 25t .06 pinion. Yeah racing motor mount fitted (TT02-013BU). Steering/Suspension - Using Tamiya CVA shock kit (53619) assembled with the long connectors at the end of the shaft using the kit springs. It provides approx 20mm ride height however the kit springs are to firm. Any suggestion for a set of softer springs? - I cut off the steering end stops on the front suspension arms and front uprights to increase steering angle. The steering stops are clearly designed for a basic transmitter with no EPA so they badly limited the turning circle, it was horrible. The steering linkages are obviously low end but they do the job for the time being, the kit runs true with the slightest bit of Tx trim. - Using the Tamiya Rally 26mm Wheels (51021) with Xtraspeed Rally Tires (XS-59574). The tires are a copy of the Tamiya bloc tires however they absolutely do the job an cost $4.50(USD) including foams. Other Yeah Racing main drive shaft + diff cups, Yeah Racing Uni Drive shafts, lowest cost metal diff cups I could find on eBay and of course full rubber sealed bearings. - Running with diff putty in the front front and kit grease in the rear. The essentially locked front diff provides great traction on dirt but kills the turning circle on grass and asphalt, tune-able sealed diffs would be nice. - The Tamiya TT-02 chassis cover set it great and definitely works as intended. I have no motor/ESC cooling issues however I haven't yet run in high ambient temperatures. Anything Else Needed? - In the interest in spending as little as possible I would say just the steering linkage set and softer springs. I think the plastic diff gears will fall victim soon enough with the way myself and my small son drives so I will also look at a sealed diff upgrade when that happens.
  6. Yeah may do however I don't have the patience to do anything as in depth as some of the great build posts that are available.
  7. So with the Yeah Racing diff I assume I would still need to get the Tamiya bevel gear set? I also guess these tamiya bevel gears fit the Year Racing diff?
  8. I hear what you are saying, the TT-02 is a spare chassis I have had for years now which is the only reason I am using it. I may do a similar rally build later this year with the new XV-02 if they are available.
  9. Hi There, I have a standard TT-02 chassis that I am planning to build for Rally use. It is not a competitive build but more something durable that my son can use. Planned power is a 3100kv motor on 2S so my aim is to have a driveline and suspension setup that should withstand a reasonable amount of bashing. Any thoughts on whether the below list of parts would do the job? Of course I also need to sort out shocks and wheel/tire combo. Thanks in advance for the advice!
  10. I have had the same issue, popping off or wearing after very minimal and light use. I think the part is just sub standard and incredibly over priced. I haven't been running my Avante for some time so don't have anything specific I can recommend however there seem to be plenty of ball ends available mostly used by crawlers.
  11. I am just finishing a Super Astute ReRe build and have the exact same issue. Rear shocks touch the body and the front body clip distorts the note because the mounting pin isn't tall enough. Any solutions or is this just the way it is?
  12. 55t motor was sufficient. The Comical Avante now runs as walking pace.
  13. I'll give the 55t a go and then hopefully should be able slow it down with D/R if needed while keeping reverse functional.
  14. Hi All, I have just build my little boy a comical Avante and I want to let him loose with it in the back yard. Issue is he is still only 3 years old so I would like to basically be able to keep it at crawler pace until he is a bit older. I am using the Tamiya ESC and silver can motor with a Dumbo RC TX. Using the dual rate dial doesn't really work as the minimum end point on the throttle D/R is still sort of high meaning it still goes at a slow jogging pace and the reverse function stops working. Any tips to slow it down? Is there a way to do it with resistors to the motor that can then be easily removed? Thanks.
  15. It looks like there are quite a few metal ball ends made for crawlers that would fit the control arm thread. May see how they compare to the genuine Tamiya piece..
  16. I was using shock shaft pliers to tighten them where possible and the damage on the front is just from me trying to pop the ball back in with small multi grip pliers. Totally understand wear and tear could cause this eventually but it was only 5 packs of which about half were doing laps around the grass back yard. I have had a few small crashes but nothing that would explain the looseness in most of the front end joints. Anyway i'll replace them and see what happens, I can't imagine there would be an aftermarket solution for those of us that want to run this buggy.
  17. Hi All, Has anyone had any issues with the suspension ball ends failing on their Avante 2011 ReRe? I have ran about 5 packs (2S) through my new build Avante and almost immediately began noticing play in the ball ends. One of them has now popped out completely and I can see it will soon happen to a few others, popping the damaged one back in does not help, it just pops back out. I have just ordered a pack of 4 but they are stupid expensive, I had to pay US$45 for the pack of 4 and I am hoping they are better quality than what came in the kit although I doubt it.
  18. Hi All, Thought I may as well share... I have recently finished an Avante 2011 build and have to say it was great fun. I have built it as a runner that may see a little shelf display time however I always prefer the challenge of running my RC cars hard yet keeping in them in great condition. As I wanted to run brushless I initially tried a Tamiya TBLM-02S 10.5t but found the can was too long and just didn't work in the Avante so I ended up using a Hobbywing V10 13.5t. Electrics: Motor: Hobbywing XERUN V10 13.t. ESC: Hobbywing QuickRun Sensored 60amp Servo: SPT low profile. Receiver/Radio: Flysky Pros: Great fun to build. Drivetrain seems to handle the 13.5t brushless system on 2S without problem and is very smooth. Drives great over loose surfaces types and can handle minor bumps and small jumps with ease. Can hit 50kph over gravel and grass with the current setup and stock gearing. I am yet to test on pavement but I don't think it would be much better with the pinion size limits. In my opinion it has to be one of the best looking new or retro RC cars in box art either sitting still or on the move. The cheap SPT low profile servo is absolutely perfect for a 1/10 buggy and about 1/4 of the price of what I have paid locally for a SAVOX low profile servo. Motor ESC temps stayed low on this setup even with extended high speed grass runs. I never measured above 45c with a 32c ambient temp. Cons: Need to use plenty of thread lock and regularly check tightness of fasteners, far more than in more modern RC cars. Suspension geometry is a pain to adjust with the unique design and old school ball links. Even taking the body off is a pain with the need to pop off the strut braces each time. (I can definitely feel the difference if I run without them). Top of the front shocks and the cockpit are very exposed to crashes if you are using as a runner. They don't stay looking new for long. If you want to fit the driver figure then space for electrics is tight. Much of the aluminium quickly becomes pitted with use and does not look great after a few battery packs. Pinion choice is limited. I couldn't fit anything above the 21t supplied in the kit as the gear starts to rub on the housing if you do, I could easily go higher with the brushless setup. The Hobbywing V10 is an exposed motor and I am sure at some point I will have issues with debris getting into the can. Rear end is a bit to stiff, could do with lower weight oil or softer springs in the rear. I don't notice a huge difference with the upgraded steering linkage. Now to get permission from the wife and kids to build my Kyosho Optima Turbo and see how they compare.
  19. I would advise against using a Tamiya TBLM-02S if that is the motor you are looking at. I have just built an Avante 2011 and am using the 10.5t motor and have found the suspension arm rubs on the can using the kit 22t pinion. It may just clear on a smaller pinion but I don't think the ratio would be ideal. Also as the motor wires and sensor cable are rear connecting which makes it is an absolute pain in this chassis, I had to grind the top deck slightly to make it fit. Having said that the performance on 2S was perfect and the car seemed to handle it well. I am about to swap it out with a 13.5t hobbywing with motor wire tabs on the top which will allow to me route the wires in a neater fashion. Also no issues at all fitting the fan under the body even with the driver.
  20. Hi All, I have just built a 2011 Avante and am having issues with the front steering knuckle step screws working themselves loose. Other than drowning them in thread lock are there any tips here? If I tighten them too much the joint will bind and if I leave slightly loose they will eventually work themselves out as the steering is used. It seems like there should be a sleeve in the join. Also yes I am using the spacer in the correct position. Thanks!
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