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About BruiseWayn

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  • Birthday 12/05/1981

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  1. Nice find. I always wanted a TF3. One of the first touring cars, if not the first, to come up with a twin belt design. Wish Kyosho would re-release some of these bodies.
  2. NON BUILD RELATED POST. Today was a rather nice day. Didn't manage to get my dampers adjusted; havent had time to go buy digital calipers. I am not sure i would have time tmrw or the day after either. Or to be quite accurate, i am not sure if i would be in shape to. I am about to receive my 2nd Covid vaccine jab tmrw, and i have been informed that i would definitely fall ill after the 2nd jab. We shall see. i am taking the Mordena vaccine, if anyone is curious. Anyhoos, good day, because my package from japan arrived. I been waiting for this for.... more than a week. Its... overdue. Quite stoked. Whats in this box? I open the box... and out of that box, i pull out.... another box. Now this was a pleasant surprise really, as i was assuming there won't a box for this; the advertisement didn't show, or state anything about the existence of 1. Advertisement listing says that its only been purchased and used, for a year. But whether the previous owner bought it new or used, was never stated. So there is the possibility that i am the 3rd owner lol. But the condition of the TX was very good. Came with a non sanwa but compatible receiver. The story is that he accidentally stepped on the original receiver and damaged it, and that this was bought as a replacement. Supposed to work, but i don't have the electronics to test it out yet. I am intrigued by the size of these receivers; no antenna, and so frucking small. how?! Anyway, now that i am back fiddling with rc cars, may i consider myself to be... back in the hobby? I been taking my time to building new kits which i have acquired a few over the past year or so, at my own pace. I am more interested in building them than running them, to my own wonky standards and spending way way way more money than i should. But fact of matter is that i do need electronics. TX/RX, Esc(s), batteries and a charger/balancer bla bla bla. maybe i can borrow batteries for that occasional bash, but the TX/RX & Esc is more important. I been looking at a proper TX/RX to buy, ideally new, something not too expensive. Honestly i was looking at something like a Sanwa MTS or Futaba 3PV. Like i said, no need to be fanciful, and not too expensive. But i don't want any badly built rubbish that looks like they were cobbled together with bad fitting plastics and what not. So anyway i was at a mate's, fiddling with one of those 1/76 scale rc mini coopers while he was talking to a customer. Its slow enough to drive on carpet without me crashing into anything. and me, being a leftie, suddenly wondered... how would it be like to hold the TX with my right hand, and steer with my left? I mean, honestly, when i played arcade racing games as a child/teenager, i would predominantly feel more comfortable with steering with my left hand, and rowing the gears with my right. When i learned to drive (1/1 scale) as a 20 year old, it was abit challenging for me because being in Singapore, we have RHD cars and thus drive on the left side of the road. But over time i got used to it. Now its kindda like 2nd nature. As far as RC is concerned i am a revered crash dummy. But in those days all TX were made for right handed people, as with many things of this world. Correct me if i am wrong, but don't remember anyone making a left handed TX 20 years ago. Oh, back then i had a Futaba 3PDF and a 3PJ. So, was the crash dummy part due to me trying to drive and steer with the wrong hands? I cannot remember if i tried to hold the TX with my right hand and steer with my left (maybe it feels so weird i gave up on the idea). Anyway with this 1/76 toy TX, i tried just that; holding the TX with my right hand and steering with the right. Obviously my wrists and hands were in an uncomfortable position but i thought it felt more.... natural, if weird. Because muscle memory dictates that i feel more comfortable with the TX in my left hand and steering wheel on my right. I reached the conclusion that i should get a TX capable of been converted for left handed use. If for what stupid reason it doesn't work out for me i can always convert back. Flysky NB4. New, convert-able to left handed use with a simple swivel of the steering wheel arm. mechanism is really tight, so no QC issues here. latency is very very decent. colored lcd touch screen and more importantly, its around the price of a mid range branded TX.. Made in china but whoa man, the build quality of this TX is unprecedented, in a good way. Did i say colored LCD touch screen? man this thing is really awesome. Everything from Sanwa or Futaba that was LHD capable was way too expensive. Also.. no colored LCD and touch screen. what's going on guys.... but to be fair these ones have been around for a couple of years..... Though i have to admit that seeing a not-very-expensive Sanwa ESC made me research more on Sanwa electronics features. SSR.. SSL.. Telemetry can be read on TX if you use a compatible Sanwa ESC. Wow? The more i looked at the M12, the more i liked it. Honestly i hated the LCD screens mounted on top of their TX since the days of the M8. Ugly. And also whats with that handle on the M12? Absolutely silly. Over the next few days i would gradually not mind it that much. And i realized that the LCD on top design was actually a decision that made sense, ergonomically. Decided that if i found an S or RS at a decent price, i would go for it. as long as it didn't cost too much over a new NB4. Anyway i missed out on the bids on 2 M12S on yahoo auctions because....i was occupied with other things and bidded too late. I was quite annoyed actually, but i told myself, @ least i now know how much people are still willing to pay for these. But i think it was fate that i missed those 2, because the one i preferred popped up, an RS. The latest variant released. Not much different from the normal M12 and M12S, but the latest one nevertheless, and still available new. Means its not that old. First thing i did was to do the left hand conversion. 5 cap screws later, I must admit it does feel kindda good with left hand on the steering wheel. Can't wait to test it. Bought the Mars R with the UR wheel and drop down some months back. Safe to say i definitely won't be using these now, but back in the day i really liked the look of these. Friend was a KO Propo user and he had a Precious, a Mars, and then the Mars R. When the chance came to buy that for SGD70/USD51, i dunno, i just went for it. I have no love for the UR wheel honestly, I always loved the mesh wheel of KO TXs. Then 2 weeks ago the one in ziploc bag popped up locally for SGD50/USD36. With a receiver. And that mesh wheel. omg, say no more. I know its weird, but i feel i could dig the look of the KO mesh wheel on the M12. Which would necessitate a custom 3d printed adaptor. We shall see.
  3. So it was due to my incompetence that the Xpress piston didn't.... "fit". The Tamiya ones didn't fit as well, until i realized i should be holding the nose pliers horizontally, not vertically. Thats why they kept slipping. I had to refit the clips twice because they were not sitting in the groove properly. Maybe i should get an e clip tool. squishy squishy squishy. coated these with damper fluid. these go into the adjustable spring collar. put some on the threads as well to ease installing. o rings and these spaces go into the bottom. i only coated the o rings with green slime. they smell like they r a mineral petroleum based product. so bad. urgh. Generally is this enough green slime, or too much? the Ride air remover was a joy to use. doubles as a damper stand. Its actually something one can live without really, but this speeds up things so much. i found a can of this in my car lol. Just what i need. Dampers were coated with fluid. I inhaled abit of this even though i did it outdoors. gave me a bit of a headache. a good spray down later. mostly dry to touch now. need a pair of digital callipers to accurately measure length, and the springs can go on. Funny enough, the speed of rebound seemed to have slowed down after spray. Did the temperature change cause that (motor spray is really cold) or just pure coincidence?
  4. So, the fiasco continues. That night i did dig out my Tamiya kit for e clips. But not before deciding i needed to do some due diligence before spend effort to pull out boxes and ****. Pulling out boxes is one thing. but having to sift through bags and not making a mess is another. Xpress asks for 2.5mm e clips(lost them, or they didnt come with kit, cant rmbr) on their damper shafts. yea, e clips. they are all the same across manufacturers, no? Apparently not. I looked through PDF versions of XV01, CC01, DB01 (kits that i have) manuals and to my surprise (but obviously, its common knowledge for everyone here) i am to assume Tamiya kits all use 2mm clips for damper shafts across all their kits. dafuq. where am i gg to find 2.5mm e clips in the middle of the night then... I know.. its just e clips. whats the big deal. but i would like to follow the manual as much as i can, and not deviate away from using other parts(upgrades exception). anyway, i thought abt it... i rationalised that i am already using Tamiya damper shafts... so Tamiya 2mm e clips isn't much of a crime is it. Ok then fair enough. So i cut the pistons from the tree.. and there are burrs. and i sand them off right? I realize... what if i am sanding more material off than i should? In my obsession with getting everything smooth and burr-free, i mean, i am not exactly known for precision... That would make all the dampers inconsistent wouldn't it? Thats when i realized there are actually flush cutters. Maybe flush cutters are... what, flushier than what i am using? Something i need to explore. Anyway i tried to install the 2nd e clip over the Xpress 2 hole piston as stipulated in the manual. I couldn't get the e ring in. And also the e clip seemed to cover the piston holes. wow, obstacles obstacles. That got me thinking. Tamiya pistons then. Which means raiding my XV01 kit again. Picture stolen off Tamiyabase coz i forgot to snap. Sigh. So have to cut it off a tree. But what if this doesnt fit the damper cylinder. LOL. but no it does, i measured. Anyway while sanding the burr off 1 piston, again the thought hit me. I don't want to deal with inconsistencies in damping (not that i would know) by my own hand, if i can help it. Are there actually TRF pistons or something along these lines that are sold not on a tree? Something that i can use? Turns out, there is. It was a saturday night. I hope that the Tamiya distributor would be open the next day. these were recommended for Tamiya's alloy damper units, but i don't see why i can't use them for plastic damper bodies. So anyway, i couldn't be luckier. @cat007 had a pack of these to spare me, and also lent me a toy to aid my damper build. I also got my hand on a borrowed pair of damper pliers. Oh boy, were these a joy to use! I need one of my own! So i was curious as to how thick the Xpress piston was compared to the Tamiya. i thought all pistons (@ least in the same class, in this case, 1/10 onroad) should be very very similar but obviously it just thick enough that i can't fit on. Xpress. Tamiya. Its a pair of cheap plastic calipers, but you can see the Xpress piston is a wee bit thicker. Wow that bit of thickness is a make or break situation huh? Turns out, i was the idiot. Close up camera. Apparently there is enough space even with the Xpress piston. So why couldn't i fit it in the night before? pardon the slant; i didnt fit the e clip in properly. ideally, I wouldn't have wanted to anyway. Now the camera shows that the e clip actually doesn't cover the piston hole, but the precious night it looked like it did. Anyway, its way too close to the hole for (my) comfort. Sorry for pic quality. But as you can see, Tamiya piston makes a world of a difference. They feel... more pliant too. Or maybe its just me lol.
  5. thank you all the FF tourers of last 1 or 2 years all look like that. motor in front and belt drive. but after building this, i realize that perhaps an FF03 or FF04 would be better. I used to think belt drive > gearbox, smoother and less resistance. Now i am not so sure; because now i realize that belt stretches are a real thing and you wont have that issue with a gearbox.
  6. Well to the LHS then. 450cst oil as supplied in the kit, and also the Associated Green Slime that @cat007 graciously pass me with some Tamiya damper fluid. Ok looks like i have everything now. And I come home.... to find that i don't have any e-clips for the damper pistons. Really, every farcking thing is missing when i most need it. I think i'll have to cannibalize one of my Tamiya NIB kits for some first. I already lost all mood for doing anything with the dampers tonight. Anyway a mate is gg to lend me a pair of damper pliers, so i'll pick them up tmrw and then do the dampers then.
  7. So car has come to a point where by its what, 70% built? left arms front and rear seem to be abit sloppy; i suspect the suspension mounts been composite, are not exactly the most precise. I am not sure i want to put shims just on 1 side. Even though there is slop, it also seems to bind abit, but to be fair i was articulating them out of their intended travel, so i guess its okay. Decide to build the suspension next. More for vanity purposes, i found Tamiya titanium coats shafts that matches the length of the OE shafts. Normally I wouldn't want to build anything without the right tools but i learnt a new trick; that's to use a power drill's chuck to hold down the shaft without scratching it ( hence you can see that i test threaded in 1 lower connector) As you can see, these shafts are for the M chassis, p/n 54044. Personally i am surprised that touring car dampers have such short travel these days. At the time of taking this picture, i realized that the supplied shock oil is missing. So is my little tub of Associated Green Slime. I looked all over, but i just can't find them. Which means i have to close shop for the night. They will show up @ some point. When i don't need them anymore. *ROAR* how annoying!
  8. So about my little spree on RCMART. So this showed up yesterday.... box was pretty small actually. YESSSSSS MY PRECIOUSSSSSSA. each pack was USD$3 and i was like, i only need M3*8 & M4*10.... arhh its only $3. So i got the M3*8 too. might as well. just in case. just in case of what? I dunno! Just in case! And these pile right here, are what Xpress calls their new material ball ends. more durable, stronger.. dark grey material... yada yada yada. And because i been twisting the ones on my car in and out so much.... i thought i'll just get some. build it once and build it right, right? Now this! This, i didn't get from RCMART. This i bought from Daiso (its a japanese thrift store where everything is $2. But most the stuff they sell are made in china lololol) for.... SGD$2. Thats like USD$1? or Less than 1 Euro/GBP. Its a magnetic little bowl where u can keep your little screws. Technically its an aluminium bowl with a strong magnetic base. So, whats so interesting about this... i mean, alot of people have one right? Please, lemme show you. Thats where the M4 set screws i need for the rear arms been hidding. !@#$%^ i didn't find out till yesterday. *ROAR* Spares for the front suspension. So these Xpress people, they periodically release new & improved parts for suspension; so the claim is anyway. But these new parts are totally compatible with their older cars, like the FT1(S) and XQ1(S), and everything(or almost everything) is available in the normal hard material that comes with the kits, or the strong and hard material which is an option. Strong and hard... Just like me.... jokes aside though, the steering blocks have not been updated. but C hubs have been upgraded to a V2, as with the kingpins. I went with the strong and hard (oh will u grow up) C Hub coz i thought perhaps the reduction in flexing when i screw down the king pins and top ball end might reduce binding. Also since theres a V2... then its gotta be better, right? The steering blocks... i went with strong and hard also because... might as well..... Ever since i used the first hex driver to screw in my first hex screw, i have loved it. The ones i have currently are abit long for my liking, and these looked good and seemed shorter and more to my preferred length. USD$15, lets go! Oh i bought these too... i have *counts with fingers* 5 vintage cars that are awaiting my attention to rebuild as shelf queens. I feel these would help in some capacity. Ok, this about brings my Xpress shenanigans up to date. Till the next time, thank you for reading!
  9. So with the front suspension more or less done, I move on to the back. As with the front suspension arms, i need 2 sets of sets screws for the ARBs & the damper lower mounts. The front arms call for M3*10mm, but the manual asks for M3*8mm for the rears, which i don't have anymore. However, i do have another pair of M3*10mm. zzzz what gives? So these are M4*10mm for the ARBs. For some reason, the ones for the rear arms decided to go missing. I swear i had them on my table. Now they are gone. And i have looked everywhere. Which means, the only way to press forward, is to order some new ones. I have completely given up on finding them. New M3*8mm and M4*10mm set screws ( they come in packs of 10. ahh well, i suppose i will have use for these in future, somehow) And those front suspension spares. I'll detail my spree on RCMART in another post. Also i was given advice on this kingpin alignment tool from Radtec on the Rctech FT1S forum. Apparently it helps you to er... make straight threads on your steering blocks. It was to my surprise that a local hobby shop actually is listed as a distributor and they do have it in stock. Costs the same as it would have if i bought 1 online. Support local businesses yo!I look forward to using this on my new steering blocks. Also got my 1st TRF tool, 4mm turnbuckle adjusters. If this would save me from stinging fingers, then its money well spent. *embarks on other rc car builds and realizes non of them have 4mm turnbuckles lolx* So okay, rear arms and hubs. I built them as how the manual would want one to build them. stub removal And thats that for now.
  10. Thanks mate. i am not familiar with Team Academy, though the name MRC is vaguely familiar, somehow. Did they use to make budget rc cars, like Traxxas? From putting 2 and 2 together, their active period in RC was... between 2005 and 2011 or something? I quitted RC in 1999/2000, thereabouts so if that is so, that would explain my unfamiliarity with those guys. I was thinking of purple button screws on top, but been aluminium, i am not sure they will quite hold up. If its anything to go by, as far as rc is concerned, i am a highly decorated crash dummy.
  11. Moving on to the front suspension now. Double cardan shafts were heavily recommended on the Xpress forum on RCtech and by one of my friends but they were also quite expensive, so i passed on those.. I know these parts as steering knuckles, but Xpress calls them the steering block, and steering block plate. I am puzzled as to why the knuckle needs to be divided into 2 parts? Assembled with the protector blades. They were difficult to get in. These are really new to me, but they do seem to make the sliding much more fluid, or issit just a placebo effect? haha Composite suspension mount piece has some stubs, so i sanded it down. Tried to make it as flat as i can coz i can't stand the uneveness. Stubs begone, i command thee! Ready for assembly So this is the part where i got stuck. I was supposed to assemble 4 links for the ARB with M3*8mm set screws. But somehow because there were set screws that measured 9.5mm or something, i assumed those were the ones and it was a mismeasurement or misprint or whatever on the manual. So when i got to the front arms, they asked for the M3*10mm set screw to be screwed into the side of the arm, for the lower damper mounts. !@#$%^& So the 9.5mm set screws are the "10mm", and are supposed to go into the arms but 2 of them are now in the ARB links URGH. So i gotta bust out the ARB links and redo them. Sigh. Doned, and doned. I know the d isn't supposed to be there you grammar nazis. So front suspension done, with the front motor mount. the steering action is not as smooth as i quite anticipated. I cannibalized these aluminium hex adaptors from an Xpress XQ1S (4wd sport touring car) that i won on Yahoo auctions for $150? Thats like 97euro/83gbp. Not that cheap now come to think of it, but on the top side, i now have a modern touring car to mess around with. I hated the plastic ones; they keep coming off and the pins kept falling out! Made a mental note to get some for this car; these needs to go back to the XQ1S once i do that. I stripped the threads off the left steering block where the plate is screwed down, but it is secure for now. And i find that i have to turn back on the top ball ends on both the steering blocks quite a bit or they will bind. I have a suspicion that i might not have threaded in the ball end on top properly. I think i will leave them alone for now. I won't be running the car so soon anyway. *makes another mental note to buy front suspension spares* I will likely run the car like this till i smash into something and replace the steering blocks and plates when they.... give way.
  12. Mate fixed. Thank you once again!
  13. ****. they actually look ok on my browser. (i copied and pasted from my google photos account) I am perpetually signed in to my acc in my Chrome browser. i just checked using Explorer and they come up in an endless string of.... gibberish. thanks for the heads up!
  14. sorry for the late updates, been lazy recently.. First purple part on main chassis. i had originally wanted the 1-piece aluminium steering plate (bridge, i call it) to be back in stock but it never did. Then this appeared on rcmart; basically 3 different inserts give you different Ackermann angles, less, normal, more. Not that i can tell the difference if i ever drove this thing anyway. So, off the normal ones goes to re-anodizing, and into the car. What travesty. Something needs to be done. *runs finger along surface* *long sigh* 8, 8.5 & 9. i was told by the Xpress people 8.5 give s u the same Ackermann as OE. I really love the carbon & purple bits. Would like to touch on abit abt the carbon upper deck. Xpress calls it flex eliminator top deck. Now why they call it that, i have no idea. the rectangularish oval purple(it was red) collar you see attached to the upper deck is what i chose to install over a flanged bearing which would be secured by that same screw over the collar. So i guess this is the flex eliminator part. This pic is stolen from.... somewhere else. Ahh so as you can see, the controlled flex this flanged bearing will bring you. Not sure my driving will evolve to the point that i can actually feel the difference, i am a pretty daft guy. But i chose to install the collar over the bearing. At which point i realize, i should have bought the normal carbon upper deck. Whats the point to have gotten this, and then plugged in the collar.... same stiffness. zzzzz
  15. Last update, to bring things up to speed, I realized that in order to install the camberlink stiffeners and CF knuckle arms, i would need those tiny 3*6mm aluminum spacers. Purple ones. I actually ordered some over ebay but i don't think i can wait for them to show up. So off to one of the LHS to see if i can get some. @cat007 told me where to go. I was actually lucky; Google lists their open hours till 5pm. I was there @ 4.30. They were already closed. Apparently they have adjusted opening hours to 3pm because of COVID. But they were waiting for a customer to come pick up some stuff so they let me in. Phew! So, not a wasted trip. Little purple alu. spacers by RC Square. JDM YO! Came back and popped 2 of these into the rear sway bar turnbuckle links. They asked for a 2mm gap, in the middle. Dun mind the brown bits; they are from the copper grease. Other than that, lookin' good i reckon.
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