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Lukas666

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About Lukas666

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  • Birthday 07/17/1979

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    Canada
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    Cool stuff

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  1. Very cool RC I love it and would buy and build another in a heartbeat if anything happened to mine.... but I find there’s a fine line between wanting to change certain flaws and mod it but still run it while still wanting to take care and preserve it lol.... after all that’s what it was meant for to drive it. I just ordered a Losi LMT 10 I’ll get my speed and monster truck fix from that and it’ll keep me from pushing this dinosaur so hard and expecting the world from it.
  2. I think the gearbox gears are plenty strong... they can handle way more than what I’ll ever throw at it. I think I’ll leave mine the way it is now and see what actually breaks and replace it accordingly. You can throw so much money and mods at these things and by the time your done you’ve spent 3 times what it’s worth haha.
  3. I built mine over x mas and quickly added oil filled adjustable coil over shocks, headlight kit, and a sport tuned mtr. The TBLE is a good ESC I think, I originally had a dynamite 20T motor for a couple weeks and it ran it just fine but wanted to try the sport tuned as well. Either work and are within 1km/hr of each other. With that mtr it’ll do 27km/hr which feels plenty fast on this van. People go faster but you’ll crash it hardcore and break things fast or your paint job you spent all that time on will look like badword in no time. The oil filled shocks make it handle way better with less dorky bouncing around. The headlight kit is awesome too and was a cheap $15 plug and play upgrade. I also modified mine to get the diff from cantering up and slapping the motor which is super annoying and a must as far as I’m concerned..... oh and very recently I glued the tires to the rims as I was bombing around on the front street through puddles and one of the rear tires started to spin in the wheel. Lots of people don’t have a problem with this but I don’t know how, if a 23T mtr is enough to do that then they need to be glued. Sealed steel bearings are a must too, way less resistance.
  4. No availability on the Blitzer... I mean sure you can find it most likely on eBay for $100 shipping and marked right up...
  5. Is there any other limits on this more basic Futaba? My next build is either a sand scorcher or Kyosho Ultima. Love the sand scorcher but just want a little more potential out of my next build for speed & don’t know if the sand scorcher is capable of it. Would the Futaba be ok to use on the Ultima?
  6. Good to know thanks.... I love the way the scorcher looks but don’t wanna destroy it if I build it.... gotta make a decision. With Covid can only get those 2 that were on my list. Otherwise the scorpion would be my first choice or the 4x4 optima. I have a family member that runs an online RC site... I mentioned these two cars to him & his opinion and he said “stop playing with toys and get a real car”!!!..... That kinda *******ed me off. I know there’s RC’s that are miles ahead of these old models.... they are dinosaurs but you build and run them knowing that, at least I do. I could dump my money in to a RC of today that handles and goes 80km/hr for cheaper than what I’ve spent on Tamiya re releases but that’s not the point. The cars of today don’t appeal to me at all really.
  7. Well my hornet with ball bearings and a sport tuned does 37km/hr. I’d think 45ish should be achievable.
  8. Hi, I currently run a Futaba 3PRKA 2.4 on a couple of my Tamiya cars. I bought it for my lunchbox but my second build just bought another receiver and linked it to the same Transmitter. Works great and whichever RC is powered up it auto links to. I’m about to start a third build and was wondering if I can do the same with the third? Just buy another receiver? Is there a limit to how many receivers this unit can link to? I only ever use one at a time I will add. I can’t find any info on this.
  9. Thinking of my next build and my local shop can get me a sand scorcher no problem or a Kyosho Ultima. Anyone have any views on either?.... I currently own a re release lunchbox and Hornet. Both have ball bearings throughout and a sport tuned mtr. Love those RC’s but maybe want something with a little more potential to go faster now. What is the Scorcher safely capable of? I know the Ultima I’ve seen running lipo with Lemans 490 or 12T motors. I love the look of the Scorcher tho and I love that it has more aluminum parts and Allan head screws. I assume the scorcher comes with ball bearings? I dont need anything to crazy but around 45-50km/hr would be awesome and looking for input on what setup to maybe achieve that.... if possible on a NIMH setup. Look forward to anyone’s input thanks.
  10. Looked up the number in the hornet build and they call it a 0115065 P parts. On eBay I see an S parts 0115001? Looks the same and it’ll most likely have the horn on it I’d need. What’s the difference between the two? Anyone know?
  11. Ohhh they popped of they’re ball connectors too, both of them. I snapped them back on quickly and then realized something else was wrong. I replaced the horn already. Had a spare one from my lunchbox build as it uses a different one off the tree. Maybe I’ll buy another tree they are cheap, just to have another spare.
  12. Just as the title says... my hornet had a pretty bad wipeout yesterday and snapped the servo horn. Is this a common issue? What are my options for a stronger one? I see the Tamiya 5100 I think it is the high torque. Is this a better unit? & does it fit the hornet?
  13. So I just took it out on the same front street hitting puddles driving it like it’s stolen and it’s fixed.... rear tires were slipping. I also downloaded this speedometer app that uses GPS for speed. Supposed to be 99% accurate. Was kinda Leary about that using it as I had to tape my I phone to the top of the van lol. Anyway I clocked it at 27km/hr. Seems faster but I guess the meter doesn’t lie. Does that sound about right with ball bearings and a 23T sport tuned?
  14. There’s like no drag now.... you elevate the van and spin the front tires and go for a coffee and come back they’re still spinning.... no word of a lie. I tried this before installing them and the plastic bushings spun 14 seconds before coming to a stop... the ball bearings were 1minute 35 seconds. The best $16 you can spend on this Van as far as I’m concerned. Fast Eddy’s bearings I installed. I know Tamiya has some but they’re like 4 times the price for some reason.
  15. I’m pretty positive that’s exactly the only thing that’s going on. Was bombing through puddles and I bet water got in the bead and was slipping..... you could see it when I put the lunchbox up against my leg and tried to accelerate in the garage, the wheel was rotating in the tire and sounded as if the Van was traveling but it was standing still. From what I seen only one rear wheel was doing it but that’s all it takes cause it’ll take the path of least resistance and the differential came into play at that point. I read about this months ago, people gluing they’re lunchbox tires and thought it was crazy it’s not an RC racer it doesn’t need it your wasting your time. I don’t know how anyone else hasn’t experienced this, or you will soon enough. Maybe they need to be wet but on pavement with decent traction after they’re wet and it’ll do it..... there’s no crazy set up in mine just ball bearings and a 23T sport tuned and that was enough. I glued them last night & when I put the wrench on the nut to crack it loose while holding the tire that wheel was spinning already in the tire. I’ll take it out later for a rip on the front street in the exact same conditions and reply with the results.
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