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Lukas666

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Everything posted by Lukas666

  1. Will say a Hobbywing 1060 get more punch out of this 15T motor? What I mean to say I guess is will it be any faster? I can’t see it being so cause either the esc will run it or it won’t. Might kick out when it gets too hot or the draw is to large but while it’s working it should be the same no?
  2. Well my Dynamite 20T doesn’t have these cores just the 15T… interesting.
  3. https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/brushed-motor-15t-3.5mm-bullet/DYN1172.html
  4. Ohhh one thing I’m not sure about that maybe someone can shed some light on?… the 15T brushed Dynamite mtr has some magnets I think they are on the leads off the mtr? What are these for or what purpose do they serve?
  5. Ya I was thinking that as well….. that it being winter here helps the cooling of the esc… I mean it’s a pretty **** mild winter but still better than running the thing in 30 degrees Celsius where it could and most likely would cut out. I think Tamiya changed they’re included ESC in the kits to a Hobbywing 1060… better ESC for sure and most likely what I’ll upgrade to but till that TBLE causes me issues I’ll keep running it for now. The Dynamite seems like a decent brushed mtr. Haven’t had any issues with them. Like I said I probably ran the sport tuned on this Lunchbox on and off for a year which was a little faster than the stock silver can. Then went to the Dynamite 20T which didn’t feel any different than the sport tuned 23T really. The 15T for sure feels way faster finally tho. I’d say the van moves at around 30-35km/hr now which isn’t crazy but these things aren’t built for high speed handling anyway and finding a happy medium between speed and control is what I was looking for. I’m well aware of amps/current I’m a mechanic by trade was just wondering if anyone else encountered using the stock TBLE with a mtr clearly not rated for it.
  6. So this is the ESC that came with my lunchbox. Description says 540 Brushed motors 25 turns or higher. I’ve run the sport tuned 540 Tamiya with this esc for about a year, then decided to try a Dynamite 20 turn 540 which btw is not Really any faster than the Tamiya sport tuned 23 turn. Lastly in the last couple weeks I’ve installed a Dynamite 15T 540 brushed motor which is finally pretty darn fast on the lunchbox and good speed increase. Anyway my question is why is this ESC that’s not rated for anything lower than 25T running this 20 or even 15T brushed mtr just fine?….. not that I’m complaining but just kind of confused. I was fully prepared to purchase and change the ESC for something rated for a 15T mtr but I’ve had no troubles at all yet and have taken it out like 5 times now and killed a 5000mah NIMH battery with it each time. Are these ratings completely modest suggestions or what? Anyone else experience this?
  7. Very cool RC I love it and would buy and build another in a heartbeat if anything happened to mine.... but I find there’s a fine line between wanting to change certain flaws and mod it but still run it while still wanting to take care and preserve it lol.... after all that’s what it was meant for to drive it. I just ordered a Losi LMT 10 I’ll get my speed and monster truck fix from that and it’ll keep me from pushing this dinosaur so hard and expecting the world from it.
  8. I think the gearbox gears are plenty strong... they can handle way more than what I’ll ever throw at it. I think I’ll leave mine the way it is now and see what actually breaks and replace it accordingly. You can throw so much money and mods at these things and by the time your done you’ve spent 3 times what it’s worth haha.
  9. I built mine over x mas and quickly added oil filled adjustable coil over shocks, headlight kit, and a sport tuned mtr. The TBLE is a good ESC I think, I originally had a dynamite 20T motor for a couple weeks and it ran it just fine but wanted to try the sport tuned as well. Either work and are within 1km/hr of each other. With that mtr it’ll do 27km/hr which feels plenty fast on this van. People go faster but you’ll crash it hardcore and break things fast or your paint job you spent all that time on will look like badword in no time. The oil filled shocks make it handle way better with less dorky bouncing around. The headlight kit is awesome too and was a cheap $15 plug and play upgrade. I also modified mine to get the diff from cantering up and slapping the motor which is super annoying and a must as far as I’m concerned..... oh and very recently I glued the tires to the rims as I was bombing around on the front street through puddles and one of the rear tires started to spin in the wheel. Lots of people don’t have a problem with this but I don’t know how, if a 23T mtr is enough to do that then they need to be glued. Sealed steel bearings are a must too, way less resistance.
  10. No availability on the Blitzer... I mean sure you can find it most likely on eBay for $100 shipping and marked right up...
  11. Is there any other limits on this more basic Futaba? My next build is either a sand scorcher or Kyosho Ultima. Love the sand scorcher but just want a little more potential out of my next build for speed & don’t know if the sand scorcher is capable of it. Would the Futaba be ok to use on the Ultima?
  12. Good to know thanks.... I love the way the scorcher looks but don’t wanna destroy it if I build it.... gotta make a decision. With Covid can only get those 2 that were on my list. Otherwise the scorpion would be my first choice or the 4x4 optima. I have a family member that runs an online RC site... I mentioned these two cars to him & his opinion and he said “stop playing with toys and get a real car”!!!..... That kinda *******ed me off. I know there’s RC’s that are miles ahead of these old models.... they are dinosaurs but you build and run them knowing that, at least I do. I could dump my money in to a RC of today that handles and goes 80km/hr for cheaper than what I’ve spent on Tamiya re releases but that’s not the point. The cars of today don’t appeal to me at all really.
  13. Well my hornet with ball bearings and a sport tuned does 37km/hr. I’d think 45ish should be achievable.
  14. Hi, I currently run a Futaba 3PRKA 2.4 on a couple of my Tamiya cars. I bought it for my lunchbox but my second build just bought another receiver and linked it to the same Transmitter. Works great and whichever RC is powered up it auto links to. I’m about to start a third build and was wondering if I can do the same with the third? Just buy another receiver? Is there a limit to how many receivers this unit can link to? I only ever use one at a time I will add. I can’t find any info on this.
  15. Thinking of my next build and my local shop can get me a sand scorcher no problem or a Kyosho Ultima. Anyone have any views on either?.... I currently own a re release lunchbox and Hornet. Both have ball bearings throughout and a sport tuned mtr. Love those RC’s but maybe want something with a little more potential to go faster now. What is the Scorcher safely capable of? I know the Ultima I’ve seen running lipo with Lemans 490 or 12T motors. I love the look of the Scorcher tho and I love that it has more aluminum parts and Allan head screws. I assume the scorcher comes with ball bearings? I dont need anything to crazy but around 45-50km/hr would be awesome and looking for input on what setup to maybe achieve that.... if possible on a NIMH setup. Look forward to anyone’s input thanks.
  16. Looked up the number in the hornet build and they call it a 0115065 P parts. On eBay I see an S parts 0115001? Looks the same and it’ll most likely have the horn on it I’d need. What’s the difference between the two? Anyone know?
  17. Ohhh they popped of they’re ball connectors too, both of them. I snapped them back on quickly and then realized something else was wrong. I replaced the horn already. Had a spare one from my lunchbox build as it uses a different one off the tree. Maybe I’ll buy another tree they are cheap, just to have another spare.
  18. Just as the title says... my hornet had a pretty bad wipeout yesterday and snapped the servo horn. Is this a common issue? What are my options for a stronger one? I see the Tamiya 5100 I think it is the high torque. Is this a better unit? & does it fit the hornet?
  19. So I just took it out on the same front street hitting puddles driving it like it’s stolen and it’s fixed.... rear tires were slipping. I also downloaded this speedometer app that uses GPS for speed. Supposed to be 99% accurate. Was kinda Leary about that using it as I had to tape my I phone to the top of the van lol. Anyway I clocked it at 27km/hr. Seems faster but I guess the meter doesn’t lie. Does that sound about right with ball bearings and a 23T sport tuned?
  20. There’s like no drag now.... you elevate the van and spin the front tires and go for a coffee and come back they’re still spinning.... no word of a lie. I tried this before installing them and the plastic bushings spun 14 seconds before coming to a stop... the ball bearings were 1minute 35 seconds. The best $16 you can spend on this Van as far as I’m concerned. Fast Eddy’s bearings I installed. I know Tamiya has some but they’re like 4 times the price for some reason.
  21. I’m pretty positive that’s exactly the only thing that’s going on. Was bombing through puddles and I bet water got in the bead and was slipping..... you could see it when I put the lunchbox up against my leg and tried to accelerate in the garage, the wheel was rotating in the tire and sounded as if the Van was traveling but it was standing still. From what I seen only one rear wheel was doing it but that’s all it takes cause it’ll take the path of least resistance and the differential came into play at that point. I read about this months ago, people gluing they’re lunchbox tires and thought it was crazy it’s not an RC racer it doesn’t need it your wasting your time. I don’t know how anyone else hasn’t experienced this, or you will soon enough. Maybe they need to be wet but on pavement with decent traction after they’re wet and it’ll do it..... there’s no crazy set up in mine just ball bearings and a 23T sport tuned and that was enough. I glued them last night & when I put the wrench on the nut to crack it loose while holding the tire that wheel was spinning already in the tire. I’ll take it out later for a rip on the front street in the exact same conditions and reply with the results.
  22. Ok so am I to assume when I need new tires I’ll be buying new rims too then cause they’ll get destroyed trying to get the tires off? Don’t really have a choice now I guess but this is why I avoided gluing them in the first place.
  23. I completely over looked that!!!.... the one rear rim especially is spinning in the tire, thank you... that’s an easy fix. Can I use regular loctite 401 superglue to glue them or is there a special RC tire glue for this? It does not say “CA” on it anywhere.
  24. Just went for a rip as it’s nice here and the snow is melting... anyway was ripping up and down the Main Street full out lots of puddles and road is pavement but wet.... sounded like it was spinning but I soon realized it wasn’t? Almost like if you were slipping a clutch in a car or the transmission was slipping. Hammer on it in forward and it doesn’t spin or wheelie.... I mean it goes and you hear the motor rev right up but it doesn’t break the wheels loose at all... does that make any sense? What happens to the mtr when it gets wet? Anything? Brand new unit I built this thing at x mas and just been running around with it in the basement not outside cause it’s been winter. This is also a new Tamiya Sport tuned 23T mtr I installed about a week ago and this is its first real run. I’ll add that there’s no grinding noises or anything
  25. That’s like $100 Canadian lol... ya you can find almost anything on eBay, what I meant was cant find them in local shops here or they’re suppliers such as Horizon hobby.
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