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silvertriple

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About silvertriple

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  • Birthday 09/09/1971

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  1. My pancar RC 1/12 chassis was designed with this event in mind, and the files are now available on MakerWorld (free files) https://makerworld.com/en/models/1086493 How about a small one-design formula race ? Proposed rules: ST-1 or EF-209 running gear ST-1 or EF-209 differential transmission printed Drawing/Material, Free Stretcher Plate - Key Indications Available on the MakerWorld Page 540 Silver Can Engine, Free Sprocket Free electronics, Lipo 2S (HV or not) wheels choice is free (Hex 12, Center Hole of 10) And most importantly: vintage Repro Endurance-type bodywork (tray or closed), welcome LEDs No transponder required The question is asked! To your printers (NB: manual in French available on Makerworld)!! (and don't hesitate to share the progress of your projects right here!) NB: question asked with the agreement of the organizers and the confirmation that a race will take place if there are enough of us!
  2. hi everyone, Disclaimer : I'm not part of the organization, I'm just transmitting the message " Hi all We are preparing an extraordinary 2025 edition over 4 days. YES!!! 4 DAYS OF MODEL MADNESS. May 8th to May 11th 2025 We open our tracks to vintage vehicles -500 BC to 2000 TT and track of course. And it will also be possible to come and drive with re-editions and vehicles from artisanal manufacture via 3D printers and other processes, which allow us to continue to drive our old cars or those of creators (prototypes). The goal was to go back to the first fundamentals, when we bought kits in boxes 70% finished where we always had to take out the D system box so that it could run! We also prepare a welcome worthy of the name with the possibility of sleeping on site with your tent or motorhome. We will have a shower at your disposal. For the meal part, we will prepare accessible menus (7/8 euros) for lunch and dinner, as well as sandwiches, chips, .... We will also have our traditional Saturday evening meal! All this in an 80's and 90's atmosphere with surprise animations that will await you throughout this event. A registration form will be made available to you via a link, more info to come! Mini Racing du Centre Rue du Stard 03410 Saint-Victor Miniracingducentre03@gmail.com " Hope to see some of you there!
  3. And I just published the accessories set for the bodyshell (BL2909 Turismo WSC par Sabula tech). https://makerworld.com/en/models/1098301 I have other plans for the bodyshell as well... Teaser :
  4. After the chassis, it is time to work out the bodyshell accessories... And there is a lot of screws... (and that is just the first one, I have other bodyshell to accessorize...)
  5. It's more work than most people imagine to organize files in a proper way before a pulication... Specially considering that it was required to do something so it is easy to build (or at least not too complex - not everyone is a puzzle world champion :-) ). I ony show some of the pages here (everything is on the final publication in one single pdf). I also have a second chassis to complete now (kydex 3mm based this time) :-) The files are live for the chassis part already and can be found here : https://makerworld.com/en/models/1086493 Another publication will follow within the week for the body mounts, bumper, and bodyshell accessories as they are really specific to the bodyshell...
  6. I had PETG stringing at the time I was using the Creality Ender 5 Plus, with the filament roll in the air. It never happened when I started to dry PETG before using it. And with the X1C I mainly use for PETG, the filament rolls are inside the AMS with plenty of dessicant. I would suggest to dry the filament. I would also suggest to disable first layer check on X1C : the PETG has two difficulties with that : it oozes a bit until the nozzle reaches lower temperarture, and it tends to stick to the nozzle, which can turn into nightmare as it is dragged over the print when the print restarts...
  7. I needed a statement color for the next step of this project, which will turn in my first very own design... Bright orange will go nicely with a black Kydex chassis The nut in the deep area of the upright is used to control the centering of the screw. The fit is tight, and a gentle push is required to put in place The rest is quite easy... I do not mount yet the pivot balls for the steering rods : this has to be sourced using regular hardware. 2mm rods and small pivot balls are far enough for the weight of the car. Here with the first version of the rear shaft.. While building this chassis, with a different servo than the one used initially to model the right hole position, I noticed another hole was required. I changed the design to put a slot on the right side, and highlighted Jeff from Factory Works so he can take the updated file in case one want a G10 chassis... The rear shaft was revised and rely now on a 160mm M3 rod (shorter would be too short - this is very tight fit - you need to be sure about the supported faces tolerance, if not a 161mm rod will be required) and few M3 nylstop (nylon nuts). The fact there is two of them enclosed is making sure you can tight the nut outside of the shaft without it moving inside the printed shaft. Once the shaft is in place, the left wheel driver gets fixed on the left side by another M3 nut Last the diff take place on the right side, and the nut is at the very end of the rod. I had to move the rod by around half millimeter so it fits perfectly... And for sure the bright orange goes very well with the black kydex chassis... I'll have to print rims and tires for this chassis, and the parts are going to be published soon...
  8. A bit of comparisons while the car is not finished... Reminder : The original Zerda has printed rims and Tamiya Thundershot tires. I really look forward to finish the few details : electronics (and I need to find a solution for the motor cables : they don't look accorded to the rest of the car ), driver paintjob, stickers...
  9. I modified and reprint the Bumper in TPU to take into account the 3mm thickness added to the chassis, as before there was a gap at the front between the Bumper and the gearbox I adapted Rims to put some Kyosho Sand Super Javelin/Optima tires. No doubt, once finished it will look like a Zerda There was an issue as well for the belt at the rear as what I've ordered was too short initially. I ordered a range of different length to make sure I have one working. Here is a 190-2GT-6 which is too long with smaller pinions. Here it should be a 16T. I replaced it by a 188-2GT-6 and a 186-2GT-6 would be perfect for smaller pinions. The transmission works perfectly. For the driver I opted for an Optima re-release driver, and I designed a part to support it. I felt I have to show somewhere thet this was not a real Hirobo... I decided to do a custom Motor Cap. "F'" is for False I printed and installed it, as well the pulley belt cover, and it was time to fix the roll cage... I still have to put a RX and an ESC in the car, and it will be time for paintjob and stickers...
  10. This morning, I adjusted shocks for this Zerda. Original shocks were 80 and and 90mm, but I find the rear should be shorten by 5mm. I started with some 85mm shocks. Rear are unchanged while front course is shorten by 5mm by insertion of a printed bearing on the piston shaft. The shocks are larger than the original ones and it may require some adjustment on top end fixation... We'll see this later., but I do think it will be the same as on the 44B chassis. The dog bones are 61mm generic one found on internet. I have 8 sitting there and 5 of them are not exactly perfect. There is one end which do have an issue on one of the side, and it requires this side to be on the wheel side, as on the diff cup side, it won't work properly. I marked them to ease the use, but they will do the job. I printed my front shock tower, installed it on the chassis with the servo and a Tamiya servo saver (with a original Hirobo servo saver, you can not use pivot ball here). The steering will be symmetric. If I trust what I experienced with the Hilux chassis, that would be enough without adding too much complexity. Next come the arms. Everything is ready to be positionned. Some fine tuning might be still required for the steering rods, but beside this we have a full front end. Note the top deck in place. I used the 2mm but the 3mm would work as well (i tested). My chassis is rigid enough with the 2mm top deck thanks to the 3mm under chassis rigidifier. I added 2 toric joints in the front diff cups to avoid the dogbones to snap out at the wheel end... The rear end was even easier... I may replace the shock tower by one a bit stronger, though. I positionned the roll cage already to check the fitting. Some adjustment will be required for the 3 transversal bars linking the two side as they are far too easy to snap out... At the end it will work. I still need to put a motor inside this beast, manage the few adjustments of the roll cage, but it is already a very good progress...
  11. Originally, this was fully intended in Vintage spirit... Which means no bath tub. Implementing 3d printing for the chassis plate, means adding sides to it to give a bit of rigidity, and it means bath tub... So, I'm not really sure this is the right idea... That said, I'd like to make it possible to any one to build a chassis like this one without too much cost. Cutting a part using CNC or laser cut in a fablab is relatively quick and easy, but it means knowing where to go. While 3D printing is just so easy when you have a printer... I need to think more about this. Anycase, the chassis in G10, cut as per my requirements is already available at Factory Works (search for Silver Triple on their website)... Adding a 3D printed one would just be another option...
  12. After the bodyshell, I decided to extend a bit the chassis project: create a forked version of the project with no dependancy on Kyosho EF-209 Fantom rear shaft, with the target to allow more people to access this chassis and to print it. For that, I decided to use a long M3x70 full threaded screw and 2 M3 locnuts as a basis : i needed to have the right side allowing the use of a modified carrier and the modified diff main gear. I had a solution in mind, and I had to try... The two nyloc nuts are set precisely distant of 20mm, the screw being fully engaged in the first one. The shaft will be made of 2 parts, and will be ketp together by the carrier, ball bearings and bevel gear on the left side. I've printed it and proceeded to the assembly to check The left end is a square driver, and I included a hole to fix the carrier. And I designed the carrier to keep this together... At the end, I had just to modify the diff to allow for the different shaft diameter : I included 2 flanged ball bearings 3x6x2.5mm on each side of the main diff, and the carrier uses the same ball bearings on both ends (while it is a different one on the version with the Kyosho shaft. Should I consider a printed version of the chassis plate next?
  13. Welcome to the 3D printing party! 3D printing is far more easy than what it was few years ago, really. Not sure where I would start today, but one thing for sure, there will be failed print. But failing a print is learning. And even with a lot of experience, we fail prints and we learn... Never forget that : failing is part of the learning curve. If you don't fail, you don't learn. If you don't learn, you don't progress. There is a lot of files available on internet : cults3D, makerworld, printables, thingiverse are only some of the repositories where you can find files. And for building your own files, have a look into my Nichimo Spirit FF thread for a start. When I started playing with 3D printing and CAD 4 years ago, I was a newbie. The Nichimo Spirit FF was my first real project in CAD. Since then, a lot of stuff have been done. And if you want to progress, set yourself an objective, and stick to it until it is done. If you don't have a target, you'll never hit anything...
  14. One part I needed to adjust was the front shock tower. I wanted to keep the chassis geometry for the shocks. But I wanted to center the steering servo head. I could have thought about adding more complexity using the two holes located at the rear end of the front shock tower walls, but I thought there was an easier way... A standard servo is too large to have its head centered. And without adding a link it can't be installed at the front. I checked the servo I'm generally using on the 1/12 cars : it is smaller, it is quick, and it is a 3KG servo, which means it should be enough for the Zerda, which remain a quite light car (I know we tend to put more powerfull servo nowadays, but back in eighties, 3kg servo was the go to servo)... It's smaller but it will allow to center the servo head, and therefore to have a symmetrical direction. I planed for 2mm and 3mm upper deck, but I believe that with the part added under the chassis, 3mm for the upper deck won't be needed to get a proper rigidity. But the shock tower will allow it. I had a small mistake in the design of the C-hub (I suspect something happened at somepoint which resulted in one extrusion skipped due to (con)Fusion360), I tried to catch it back by grinding it manually, but it was not enough, and I broke one of the C-hubs while assembling them with the arms (yes, I do mistakes, sometimes). I reprinted some in PETG temporarily to complete the build, and I'll reorder SLS print later on (The 44B ran quite a lot with full PETG printed parts, so it should be fine on the Zerda).
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