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Nikko85

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About Nikko85

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  1. If you want to remove, bleach works amazingly well, but that will take it all off. Black spray paint as a very light mist also works well. It gives a worn appearance.
  2. house hold bleach will often strip chrome from plastic in a few mins too.
  3. Friday: I went out last night, so probably just a quite one reading. I've starting reading the book series Malazan Book of the Fallen which are pretty epic, over 1000 pages per novel, and it's a ten novel series, so that has kept me going. I read a lot, not that anyone could tell from my writing. Saturday: Tidy the house and work as I'm a little behind. Sunday: See Saturday
  4. yep, there are lots of cheap cars out there. I've just picked up a Radio Shack Hot Machine 4x4 as for some reason I convinced myself I needed one. After driving a few 'proper' rc cars over the weekend I've realised I really like the way these truck bounce along. Far less stable, far more fun!
  5. The Playschool would be quite a hard job, as there's no steering on it. Lots of these cars brush up pretty well. Although there are less spares, you can often pick up a whole car for £10 - 20 or so. I need to add a servo saver to mine Tandy, as I keep breaking the steering mechanism when I crash. Or I could just learn to drive.
  6. Hi all, I am looking for a recommendation for an ESC and motor combo please. The car is my Tamiya QD Clodbuster copy, with a Nikko gearbox. There are a couple of current issues. The cheap 320 Amp ESC keeps cutting out. It worked great for a few runs, now it's really temperamental. As the gearbox was designed for a grasshopper style buggy the motor is also under a lot of strain, so it needs to be something with some decent torque too, that won't get too hot. These are my criteria It needs to be cheapish, around 30 - 40 at max (not sure if this is possible) UK based if possible Needs to fit a 540 motor mount, and take a standard Tamiya pinion Needs to be able to handle a car that is more highly geared than it should be (with no way to change it) Must be able to run on a 7.2 NiMH Fitting in a 380 enclosure would be a plus (so it can work on something else I may have planned) There are lots on Ebay, but I'm not sure which ones are junk, and which ones are legit? In terms of speed, in my other QD monster truck I've got a tiny 2030 Quicrun, and I love it, so I don't need super speed, just something that is reliable and can handle high gearing Thanks in advance,
  7. Nikko85

    Nikko Vulcan

    amazing. that would be a beast! I prefer my cars a little smaller!
  8. I was able to complete this last night. First impressions. The performance increase is somewhat lower than I thought it might be. It's got more power than stock (in particular in high gear under load or on carpet) but where as the Tandy Off Roader (same size motor, same ESC, battery) really jumped up a notch when I took out the old electronics, this is more of subtle improvement, probably because the stock electronics were already pretty good. I've bought a cheapish 280 motor rated for 6 - 12V, so we'll see if that makes a difference. That being said having proportional steering and throttle makes a huge difference to running it. The LED lights are really bright and look great, and the trailer release works really well too. It can't carry much, but I was able to take a 2l bottle of coke in the trailer and drive around. I quite like loading it up and seeing what it will do. Anyway onto the photos and build. This was the final step, fitting in all the electronics. There wasn't enough space in the chassis, so I used a aluminium bar to make a second level, using the posts that would have held the original pcb to lift the bar up. The bar also sits over the micro servo and helps hold that in place. I also cut a small hole to take the Tamiya connector into the battery bay. I could have drilled a smaller hole pushed wires through and resoldered, but I didn't want to get the soldering iron out every time I wanted to change the ESC. With that all done it was time to fit it all together and enjoy in all it's tiny, epic glory. Look, really bright lights! Shiny things! You can see here that I mended the smoke stack, using aluminium tubing. I also used JB weld to fix the horn, filling in the gap and filling down to shape. I went for a dull or weathered chrome look. I can't do full shiny. It looks like it's got a few miles on it to say the least. Overall thoughts are that it's quite fun and it looks great. I had a similar truck to this as a kid (with a wire control) and remember driving it around my house as a kid, so this brings a smile to my face. I have got to remind myself that this was 1/30 of the price of a Tamiya model, but I like the way it turned out.
  9. Very nice work, and of course a lovely Tandy Off Roader body there too. I added a 5th shock mod to by QD Pumpkin, which has a very similar geometry to the full size car. Simple spring with just enough pressure to keep the front end of the gearbox down on acceleration. With just spring shocks the whole thing is a bouncy mess, but at least I don't have to worry about that clicking and shuddering on throttle.
  10. I also wonder if anyone had tried the QD black motor as an option? I've just fixed up another Nikko 280 powered Road Express, so having a 280 motor with more grunt would be great. Brushless would be an option, but at £40 it's double the price of the cars.
  11. So, the pictures. The trailer release really reminds me of the old board game mousetrap. Usually the arm is pulled back with a spring which keeps the trailer release in place. When you press the third channel the micro servo rotates 90 degrees anti clockwise. The servo horn hits the lever, which in turn rotates clockwise and pushes the arm forwards which then drops down the flap, releasing the trailer. The arm is sprung, so the second you let go of the channel 3 button the arm springs back at the trailer locks into place. Here is another picture, but missing the lever arm. I also painted a little of the chrome, which is more of an patina steel or aluminium than mirror chrome, but looks ok.
  12. So, I've got a few more updates that I'll add pictures tonight. I was able to get a nice solution for the trailer locking mechanism that I'm quite happy with. Opens with a single press, then when released it springs shut again, just like the original.
  13. Well, I've finally got a Nikko to match my forum name, a Nikko Road Express. Released a few years after the Tamiya, the Road Express was Nikko's toy version of the Tamiya King Hauler. At 1/25 scale it's much smaller and much more basic but does have some pretty nice features, including working headlights and a third channel that can detach the trailer. The car runs on a 9.6v pack, but also includes an 8 x AA adaptor, which means I can use up some AA batteries. The two speed 280 motor gearbox is attached with a pendulum suspension which helps with small bits of gravel, but it's not an off roader. However it's not proportional (which makes reversing with a trailer really tricky) and could be sped up a little. The full plan is: Clean it up completely Restore a few broken pieces of chrome work, and then repaint these as best I can Replace the missing cab roof spoiler Add modern steering servo, esc and a mini servo to operate the trailer release get a hotter motor if I can On arrival the car was much more dirty than I had thought. After giving a good clean I removed the steering magnets and installed a regular servo. I probably should have used a smaller servo, but this one just about squeezed in. The servo is attached with bolts which run though to the underside of the car. Testing it it seems to work fine, although due to the geometry servo horn is quite long, meaning that I'll have to dial down the steering EPA. I'll loose some torque, but given the small wheels this won't be an issue. Next job is going to be adding the servo for the trailer release mechanism. then it'll be a case of the motor, esc and chrome.
  14. Is there a mod where you can link the steering wheel to the servo, so it rotates when you turn?
  15. Many thanks for that reply, So if I understand the red stays positive, and the white becomes the new ground, and that makes sense as to why flipping makes no difference. I had also assumed that servo wires worked like a motor ESC, where the polarity flips according to the Tx, but clearly not. The bigger thing is that the third channel works for the servo as I need it to for one truck, and for the other I may look at that switch. Thanks again,
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