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Nikko85

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  1. Well, having given the car a spin the gearbox does seem a really weak point. The rest of the Fake QD is pretty standard (and in fact some areas are a better design than the real QD, but there is very little to the car) but the gearbox is cheap and juddery, and now I've opened up the QD and compared the two there is no comparison. Every time I hit the throttle the gearbox sounds like it's going to explode. Even with the motor set to low it's just not a smooth action. But.....I do have spare gearbox from a Nikko Might Max with is 540 powered - and similar to the hornet/grasshopper. I've seen some photos here of cars that have been converted and they do look nice. The rear wheels would stick out further, but I plan to flip the wheels hubs meaning the hex attachment is near the outside of the wheel, and this will pull the wheels in so they line up with the front. It looks like the wheelbase will be enlongated, but only by perhaps a cm, which shouldn't be too noticeable.
  2. I've got the Hobbywing Brushless 2030 18T 5200KV running in my fake Tamiya QD. Whenever the car moves (or if you move the wheels when the power is on) there is a defined note or pitch that comes from the gearbox that lasts carries on for half a second or so after the car has stopped. This doesn't happen when the power is off. It's a strange noise, like someone tapping a spring or metal bar at a specific pitch. At first I thought it was coming from the springs in the dampeners resonating, but it's coming from the gearbox. It also only happens when the car is switched on. I've never heard anything like this in my other cars, Is this coming from the brushless motor? The car has quite abrasive noise from the gearbox when at speed. I'm not sure if the whine is a brushless motor (this is my first) or just a crappy gearbox, or some resonance issue caused by bad luck, but it really squeals like a pig. Thanks in advance, and sorry this is a very basic question,
  3. So, after a bit of playing with the car the 4.8V does seem a little low (perhaps it's the AA over Sub C) but as minimum for the ESC is 4 x Sub C I think I'm cutting it too fine. However turning down the punch seems to help a little with a higher voltage. I've got the same clattering rear end as a pumpkin, so debating a 5th shock mod, as it does really make a racket when accelerating at low speed. I might just block up the vertical travel in another option, which will remove articulation, but I've got no diff, so might as well go all in! So, the gearbox goes make a real racket - is this a) the brushless motor or b) my gearbox? It's not completely trivial, as I often just drive around in my house and like quiet car..
  4. Well I opened up the gearbox to install the new electrics and it looks like I blew up the differential last time. Other gears are more robust looking, but I thought the gearbox was quite weak looking in general. So I now have a fixed rear glued diff. Not perfect but its a £20 car. On the plus side it works quite well. At 4 x AA it moves ok , and at 8 x AA it really goes. Tires are junk however, so that's a shame but I need new tires for the pumpkin anyhow. Think this car will be a test bed, and I'll take over the best ideas to the real QD.
  5. A few updates. Well, the new controller turned up and it works perfectly with the EZrun. Zero issues at all, just a nice, neat system which swings from forward to reverse in crawler mode. The issue was with the eTronix RC system, it was just was causing interference, so this may help someone for future reference. EzRun and Etronix just don't mix. I've opened up both gearboxes (the Pumpkin and the Fake Clod) and the Pumpkin's looks much studier. Thicker gears, wider pinion, just all round more serious. However the Pumpkin needs more work, so I'm going to get the Fake QD working first. Gearbox is quite noisy, so I'll clean up completely, and grease up, and hope for the best, I'm not sure what the other QDs are like in terms of volume, I do like a nicer quiet car. My aim is to run it with 4.8 volts, so I don't worry about tearing out the gearbox with the brushless motor. The fake clod can't take bearings either, so I want it to run low and cool. I've bought an 4 x AA battery holder, which I plan to use inside the chassis, leaving the battery bay empty. If the 4.8 volts works well, I may decide to buy a proper 4.8 NiMH Sub cell pack, or solder up 2 x 4 AA in parallel and place in the battery bay. I'll get some pictures when I can, I've got a big issue getting on TCPhotos.
  6. Well, the QD pumpkin arrived and it's the rustiest car I've ever seen. A number of the bolts are completely stripped and rusted, I took off a wheel that was falling apart and....... and a moth flew out. Quite a few screws needed to be drilled out completely. However I think it is salvageable. Thankfully the plastic is in ok condition (apart from the bumper, which I am going to fix. Now I've got it close up I can see my Clodbuster copy is completely different. The gearbox, chassis, steering system and how the body connects are different too, so it was a copy, but not made with the same tooling or probably in the same factory either, more of a rip off! This is different from the Radioshack/Tandy version, which I think is the same car with different electronics and wheels. Tomorrow I open the gearbox, and hope that's not rusted completely! The plan for the MP is to strip out the rusted battery compartment and sand it flat, so a 9.6 volt battery can come in drop in a servo and convert to modern electronics drill out some of the screws and use bolts to connect it all up Use aluminium bar to make my own bumper I'm aware that after all this I could have bought a modern Midnight Pumpkin, but I like the engineering challenge, and the small scale is really cool.
  7. Not exactly a Bigwig but shows a nice colour combo on a similar style. The blue really works with the yellow, and I think dash or red and silver looks good too. I know Tyco isn't everyone's cup of tea, but the colour combos of this era are great.
  8. Thanks, black ones would work better than the red for sure. I'll see how bad these are, but might well give you a shout. When I am able to add to TCPhotos I'll take some pictures of them both. They seem like fun cars, the small size and short wheelbase means turning radius is tiny (especially with a proper servo) but there's enough car there so they don't get trod on, and it seems like you can mod them too. Spare seem rare, but not so rare that it's a dead end if something breaks, and I'm sure if I keep an eye on ebay I'll be able to pick up a few junk cars for spares. Now I'm debating a Thunder Dragon! Agghhhhhh.
  9. That's really useful, thank you. I'll think about unscrewing the spring, but I may well deform them in doing that. I'd like to try and keep them stock for now - and then look into upgrades after a little run time. I've seen some red QD shocks on Ebay, but the yellow ones would really work in the Pumpkin, so I'll keep looking.
  10. Well, call me an idiot, because I just picked up a QD Pumpkin (my favourite version) for £25. Condition is a little beat up, but that's half the fun. Seems there is corrosion in the battery tray, but I'll be soldering in a Tamiya lead to the battery input of the PCB (assuming it's not a split voltage input, I hope not). It'll be interesting to compare my fake QD with the real one. I'm not sure yet if I'll try and convert both, or have one almost stock QD and a converted second, it really depends on what the performance differences is like between them, and also if the gearboxes will swap. I've got a few questions I've heard that real Pumpkin/LB tires fit on these, can anyone confirm this? Can you replace the front bumper? Are there any sources for the rear chrome bar, or assuming there isn't a source what's the best chrome paint? I was thinking making my own would not be that hard really. The seller says the springs need replacing, what are the best options for this? Can I remove the springs from the shocks (either to clean or replace) or are they stuck in? In version copy I can't pull them apart, which makes cleaning really hard, but I find that foil and water can work wonders. Thanks in advance, I've become a member, but still can't get access to TCPhotos, but when I can I'll put up more pictures. The
  11. Maybe, although I'd also have to remove the 7mm hex connecters that are on their now (I think), and then purchase the Tamiya connectors - so it gets more expensive and complex - although I'm going to have to get a 7 - 12 mm hex anyhow. I'll look into it. Rising fighter tires look quite nice, although again, not quite balloon enough for me.
  12. Does anyone know any 1/10 buggy wheels with a 12 mm hex connection that look like the hornet tires? I've got a car with a 7 mm hex connection on the back and standard round 5 mm bearing axles on the front. I'm probably going to convert rear to 12 mm hex, as very little fits 7 mm and I really like the hornet wheel look, which of course are not 12 mm! I can't find a 7 mm to vintage Tamiya connector, and I don't want to convert to 12 mm and then convert that to Tamiya, as it starts getting messy! Any suggestions please do let me know, and also just nice cheapish buggy tires in general!
  13. Thanks, - it's a surprisingly nice runner too. It's not going to break any speed records, but for a 35 year old car it's working well, and a nice, quiet smooth gearbox too. I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with a hornet or other body on these frames? The body is in ok condition (not by any means perfect) but I wouldn't want a big crash, as the plastic is quite brittle.
  14. Just finished restoring this Rhino. All original electronics and it works great. Very nice little car, I really now just need the parts to finish my other F10 but Thunderbolt/Bison bodies are really rare.
  15. Ampro is nice and Nordic Visions.
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