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Nikko85

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  1. Do you have more photos of posts of the project? Is it pretty much a 3D printed MF01x?
  2. @Honza very kindly sent over a stl file for the MF01x spacer. With a cut and shut job I was able to make a 10 mm spacer for my MF01x. This now allows the MF01x to be 181 mm wheelbase (or any of the other wheelbases minus 5 mm, as you can replace the 15 mm spacer with 10 mm one). Once I've tested I'll put up somewhere if anyone is interested. Thanks again @Honza
  3. Amazing, I don't suppose there's any way you could send that file please? Either the 257 mm, or even better a 10 mm extension, but that does feel like cheating! I was planning to print it as one object, or let the chassis halves hold together. If it's not a big file perhaps you could email it to me, if I give you a PM?
  4. I've done more on the 3D designing side making mounting posts, bears, battery covers etc. I can't print anything till at least tomorrow, but I've got a busy week of work, so might have to leave it till next week. It's a nice way to do a little bit of the hobby whilst not making a mess. I am also trying to design an MF01x spacer, so the car can have more flexibility in the lengths. With zero spacers the car is 171 mm wheelbase but the smallest spacer is 15 mm so you are stuck with 171 mm or 186 mm. If I could make one around 10 mm or so then you'd get a wheelbase that would be perfect for the 1/14 Taiyo and Tamiya QD range. I could make it modular, so anyone could use the design to feasibly print any length they wanted, making an already flexible chassis even more flexible.
  5. Work in progress. The face looks odd as is designed to have the other parts painted and stuck on. I've not idea what the scale or size of the real Kumamon is. Legs look odd still.
  6. I am going to try to knock up a 3D printable Kumamon in driving pose, should anyone be interested? I'll have to borrow a few existing designs to make something work. With a hard hat I might also have a driver for my Heavy Dump if I cut out the windows! The model I am using has face parts so you can paint those before sticking on. No idea if it works, but I'll try in 1/25 scale before trying in 1/15 for my other Radio Shacks etc. PS I did not make this, I am nowhere near that skill level, but downloaded a model and now trying to get it to look like the Tamiya one. Andrew
  7. Thanks, it does help that work has a few grands worth of 3D printers! Today I designed a servo horn that will work with the Tandy Jeep. I will need to measure what I have before I finalise the printing, but looks like it should work well. I also discovered that the Tandy Renegade Jeep tires will fit on an M Chassis wheel. This means if I wanted to, I could put the Tandy Jeep body and tires on an MF01x for a really awesome 4x4 Jeep with great scale tires and looks. The tires are 75 mm so would give a decent clearance compared to stock. Yes, the MF01x won't win any awards for off road, but with a 13T pinion, 35T motor and 75 mm wheels I should have something that's good a decent blend of ok speed, decent off road ability and scale looks. This would involve a new MF01x, which could be hard to justify, so I might need to sell something.
  8. Very well thanks, although a little needed to be trimmed away with a knife as I was limited by the very basic software. The newly designed ones on the new software should be much closer to the originals. That being said, the trimmed the old ones work flawlessly so it's just perfection for perfection's sake, and to get the skill down. I've also started working on a custom made servo horn - which should just be a little smoother. And a battery cover for my cut down QD chassis which is part of the King Cab 1/14. This is the engineering I like, not trying to make a high performance vehicle, but adding parts to toy grade cars, so they can effectively be hobby grade, but look like that's the way they came from the manufacturer when you open them up, not glue gun and double sided tape etc.
  9. The spiked LB tires were originally a hop up for the QD Monster Truck series, but are now standard on the GF01TR. They are nice grippy tires.
  10. Got much better at making things in 3D. custom made shock towers for an MF01x with a 1/14 QD pumpkin body New knuckles for the Tandy Jeep.
  11. A little more work on the servo. The step screw was very slightly under the size needed for the steering mechanism, so I used some wire heat-shrink sleeves to expand the diameter a little. This gives a much snugger fit with much less play, leading to more accurate steering. With this done I was able to focus on the electronics. I am using a Mtroniks ESC for this. The ESC attaches via a Tamiya plug to the positive and negative terminals of the original battery holders, meaning I can use 4 C cells for original power. From the terminals I also wired in a Tamiya connector, which means I can use a 6 x AA pack instead, for 50% more power. The Mtroniks ESC is great in this role, as it’s designed for 4 cells, so there is no shut off at lower voltages. The motor is a rather odd a Mabuchi 365 micro, which is larger than a 370, but smaller than a 380. From what I can gather the main use of this motor is in hairdryers, and in fact this motor looks identical to those still sold by Mabuchi today, 35 years later, so it’s good to know I’ve got options for a spare. I guess being a hairdryer motor it should be quite good at high temperatures? As I mentioned to car came in great condition, but both the knuckles have stress fractures, and one was so cracked when the car arrived the wheel had come off. As I don’t want to be worrying about wheels popping off I starting learning how to 3D print to make a new knuckle. I work at Imperial college, so we have a few nice bits of tech – including an ABS 3D printer. A play with the software (very basic) lead me to this design which with a bit of tweaking led me to these: Which worked perfectly. I hope to print in black, white or red once I find the ABS stock and can learn how to add new spools. The axle is a push fit into the knuckle, it might be I need a tab of glue to keep it secure, but it's a tight fit.… At 7.2 volts there is more than enough speed (in fact too much as it will roll over) so I may trial a 5 x AA battery pack instead. Steering could be tighter, but there’s nothing I can really do for that as the whole mechanism bottles out. With zero suspension you don't want too tight steering as it means roll overs are too easy - for anything but driving indoors the turning circle is fine (or technical crawling, but that won't happen!) The low gear is pretty low, which is great for rougher surfaces. It accelerates quite slowly on high gear, which makes it much more realistic. A servo that could move up the gears would be amazing – that would need a new radio gear which would cost more than the car. Of course it’s nothing like as competent as my MF01x on a trail, but it has a real old school charm that makes driving it really fun. Slow, scale speed and looks with enough speed on fast gear to make it a little exciting. Now I've been looking for a Jeep for a reason, and what you are all waiting for, to make a Jeep from Jurassic Park. Now it’s not quite the right model (Renegade vs Wrangler) nor quite the right year – but it’s close enough. The headlights are the wrong shape for example but I can get over that. So the plan is: Fabricate a door and add on to the car. A working door with hinge would be cool, but I’ll probably just glue on. Could 3D print one, or use plasticard. If 3D printed I might be able to add a wing mirror (somewhat iconic in the film) Add metal wire and a hook over the fake winch to make slightly more realistic fake winch (also a little iconic, no dilophosaurus here please..) Paint the light grey parts Add some JP stickers (eBay sell a few in 1/16 size, which should work well…) Add Edgarmon as a driver And that should be it. I may yet decide to put the body on an MF01x to make a really nice small scale 4x4 with a low turn motor, but I'm quite enjoying this design to be honest.
  12. Great thread I love the design of the cars, the fact they are quite cheap (some of them) and the general design philosophy. It's a great antidote to a world of bigger, faster, newer. The designs are fantastic, and there is real variety. Looking at many other makers often the chassis look very similar, but I love how Tamiya try new things and offer such a mix. In terms of bodies The Clod, Pumpkin, Grasshopper, Blitzer, Blackfoot etc. are all marvels of design to my eyes. They are much cheaper than many other makers, even if you add a price of bearings + pinion. For me an RC car is a toy car - and it's about fun. Nothing says fun like a Heavy Dump, modified MF01x or Pumpkin etc. Sure I could go faster, harder, jump over a house or race a horse, but I don't want a toy car to do that.
  13. Thanks, work has a UP mini 2, which is pretty decent for its size and did all the work for me. Did make a few mistakes with the dimensions, so will print more tomorrow. Need to get some decent digital calipers!
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