Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

356 Excellent

About Nikko85

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Many thanks. Using an old tamiya battery connector, 4 x C batteries and a little bit of masking tape I was able to make up a 4 cell C battery that should provide the same power as a real one for a test........... .......and it failed completely (but the test was a success in that). Both cars (TBLE-02 and HW1060) were very slow (much slower than 2/3 power) and would cut off if pushed too hard. I may try with a mocked up 5 cell, as the 1060 suggests that 5 cells can work. What's really annoying is that I've had a Hobbywing 2030 Brushless motor and ESC on 4.8 and 7.2 volts with AA and it would have been perfect, but I can't get a little brushless motor into this. I think I might have to live with the sticking out battery, oh well, or invest in the new ESC or new LiPo. Or go down the higher turn battery, as @OoALEJOoO has had good luck with a 55T motor and AA. Edit - I tried a Jury-rigged 5 cell and it worked better. I found this online from HW. When the voltage is below 4.5V, the output power will be halved. When the voltage is lower than 4.0V, the output will be cut off and won’t be resumed again. I guess for the 4 cell the output was less than 4.5 v which meant it was halved, which would explain the total lack of power. The 5 cell gave enough to be over that 4.5 volt threshold, and so was much better. So, if I go for a smaller cell pack it'll be 5 cell minimum then. 5 cells running traverse in the bay will still look better than a 2 x 3 pack. The question is, is it worth it? It may be worth getting a 5 cell to check. If I can tuck in the battery at the expense of 1/6 the power, that's fine - but it seems it's not always so simple.
  2. I really wish that batteries like this came in a sleek holder, so you could pick and choose cells. It would be so much better for the environment too. Throwing away a pack as one cell is bad is just a bit crap really, but not much else you can do. One tip I have found, For some NiMH AA batteries that can't take a charge if you put a 9v battery on them for a quick sharp shock (careful, don't do it for too long) it can shock them into working again. It's usually on packs that have been left on overnight and the battery is 100% gone.
  3. Many thanks all - ideally I'd like to keep the charger and battery type I've got, so really just want to check they work. Mardave and Kamtec cars were all 4 cell, and ran like anything - so it can be done, I was just hoping I didn't have to spend £20 on a battery to experiment! With any luck someone reading this thread in a few years will learn from my mistake/success.
  4. Lovely, they look amazing. Finding them might be tricky however!
  5. Many thanks I assume the Escort Tiger Stripe wheels are now something of a rarity? I have to say they look perfect for what I want. I've also found the 56519 tires seem to work well, which when spray painted white would look ok. At 1/14 scale they'd match the truck I'll be making at least.
  6. The more I look at it the more I like it. I really like the laid down front shocks. I find lots of modern buggies just don't make sense to me, as there are massive shocks in front of where the driver would look out. The laid down shocks and angular side pods give a sort of F1 vibe, very cool!
  7. Many thanks, but I'm afraid that wouldn't fit. I'm trying to use the original battery compartment to keep the weight low. At the moment the battery (and horizontal battery support) stick out quite far. It's not terrible, but the whole car would look nicer if the lower battery, and support was tucked in 15 mm or so on each side. The car is already quite high on the chassis, so something low sticking out far really breaks up the lines. There is just enough space for either 3 AA batteries going in width ways so I can put in a 3 x 2 AA pack. Although AA batteries are longer, 2 x AA length is less that 3 x Sub C length, so it helps. However a 4 cell NiMH would look the best. I can also fit in a sub C pack on it's side, so a 5 cell pack might work too. But I don't have any to spare, and I want to check it would fit and work with the ESC first, and also check if a high voltage lower turn motor with 2500 mAh or a high powered motor at 4.8 v and 5000 mAh might give more performance? I've also got a TBLE too, although something tells me the HW is more flexible.
  8. 100% agreed, the early F10 based Nikko buggies were the best. I've got a Bison missing a rear gear box - one day I'll fix (or sell on - as they fetch really high prices in Italy!)
  9. I am enjoying my Mf01x, but the 7.2 v battery is still too large, and I'd rather not go to LiPo. Given that the car is quite a handful I am happy to reduce speed a little. I've looked at options for having the battery in the body, but it would raise the COG. It seems I have two options, number one is go for a 6 AA pack which fits in the battery bay, and as a plus I have a few of these. The problem with these is that my current motor (Torque Tuned) draws too much current, meaning the ESC switches off on full throttle after the second or so. A solution could be a lower turn motor, perhaps 55T which will allow the car to run. I've used these 7.2 AA packs with HW1060 fine before, but just needs a less hungry motor. With a 280 or 390 they have been fine. The other option could be a 4 cell NiMH pack, offering less voltage but the same ability to supply current. Run times would be the same, just hypothetically at 2/3 the power. My first question is, has anyone tried 4 cells with a HW1060 before? The HW1060 is confusing, in that it gives 5-9 cell as min/max on the input in the spesc, but then suggest 4-6 cell is ok... "suitable Motor: With 2 Lipo or 4-6 NiMH 540 or 550 Size Motor: ≥12T Or RPM<30000 @7.2V" I'd rather not spend too much cash on a 4 cell NiMH that won't work. I might be able to squeeze in a 5 cell. My second question is, and I know this is relative to the batteries and output, but would it be better to try and lower the motor on 7.2 V at lower current, or keep a good current to a bigger motor at 4.8 volts? I am interested in off road driving, where currently the car really does need to be at full throttle to confidently take on grass.
  10. Cool cars! This is mine I'd say, if it's mint, leave it alone. If it's a little worn, go for it. RS are never going to release new stickers for it, and cars get worn. Better it's used and enjoyed. Yes, it may be worth something later, but that could be said of anything. In terms of value, I bought the above for around £40, and selling for almost the same (after a few bearings added, free labour for someone!) Oddly enough, I prefer the Black Wolf shell for this chassis, although not considered the classic.
  11. That being said, this still confuses me.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aristotle's_wheel_paradox
  12. AFAIAA a central diff will allow different rotations of front a rear, whilst the regular diffs just deal with side to side. If you are running a car with different sized fronts and rears, they'll have to rotate at different rates. This will mean you'll get slippage, either the front or rear will slip unless you run a centre diff, which works in the same way as a regular diff (left-right) allowing for changes in speed between the two. I know some crawlers use unequal speed in front and rear, but for faster driving, I think it wouldn't be great. I think for tire width, you'd be fine, it's just perhaps not the most efficient. I am making a 4WD car now, and I'm debating thinner fronts, just for style. I guess very much thinner front tires would handle more like a RWD car, and wider fronts than rear like a FWD car. The more equal, the more 4WD feel it will be?
  13. I am interesting in getting some Brat tires for my upcoming build. Does anyone know any hex wheels that can fit a Brat tyre please? Ideally I'd want to use the hex mounts as provided, without having to purchase a conversion plate and then longer axles as that get's pricy. Something with enough offset (the type that makes the car wider) too, otherwise the wheels won't clear the body and springs. The chassis will be a MF01x. My other option is a Sand Scorcher, which @OoALEJOoO has tried on a M chassis wheel - which works although may need glue! Also, as a mild rant, I am the only one who finds tires really badwording confusing? Offset (measure from where? what is + and -) size (2.2, mixed imperial and metric, who does that?) and very little information about the actual outer diameter and width many models have makes it hard to mix and match. I'm trying to find 80 mm + wheels for my new build, and it's really tough, unless it seems you've got loads of spares to just put together or know the secret code. Even Tamiya rarely state the sizes of each tire on their website, unless I'm missing somehting?
  14. I like Dracula! Cool work and I love the zip the seatbelt. However I feel he should be Grave digger or Midnight Pumpkin....unless he's just eaten Van(essa) Helsing!
  • Create New...