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Everything posted by Nikko85

  1. I just picked up a non-working Taiyo Jet fighter, which I've added Hobby Grade gear to. Yours is a great looking car, and I love the inspiration.
  2. A long shot, but does anyone have a Midnight Pumpkin QD body at all? Based in London, UK. Ideally would spend around £15 - 20.
  3. Tamiya on everything, because that's what Tamiya and Nikko use!
  4. Thanks. For the regular truck you can use a 9.6 volt pack like this, with the ESC between the battery and the servo. If you tuck the battery wire under the battery you can access it from the battery door, meaning you can charge without opening up the car. However this version, the Wild Ranger has a different chassis, and there isn't enough space between the top of chassis and the body at the rear of the truck where the cab ends, as the truck bed is too low. This meant having the battery higher and horizontally in the cab section, which then meant the ESC had to sit above the battery meaning a super high weight distribution. Now the majority of the mass of the battery sits in the battery well, and the ESC can be placed at the same height it was in the original. I've lots a few volts however, and I did have to cut up a 9.6 volt pack that cost as much as the kit! Still, less weight and voltage means a greater chance I won't get a burned out motor, but still looking at 280 and 370 options too. Edit: I took it to the park. One full throttle it will still start to roll, but only when you go full steering lock, before it would roll like mad. I've lost more speed than I would like with the reduced voltage, and this is particularly noticeable in reverse and low gear, so I'm looking for a 370 motor option, so I can keep the same ESC and set up. Still good for driving in the house. Other random thought, I wonder if I could use a micro servo to change gear? My cheap little Tx has a 3rd channel switch that would work perfectly.
  5. Found a neat solution to lower the centre of mass and fit in batteries. Cut of the top of the battery cover. An 8 x AA block is converted to a 6 x AA battery block, and then slotted in vertically. At 7.2V it's a little slower, but now doesn't roll every time you turn with any speed at all.
  6. I think most 1:1 cars might struggle..
  7. Nice. I don't know that version but looks cool! Let us know how you get on. Here are my latest two. Both shells are pretty identical. The chassis on the right is from a Radio Shack Wild Ranger. I thought the chassis would be identical to the Radio Shack Off Roader, but it has slightly smaller wheels with slightly lower stance, which makes it look more like a regular truck. I had to modify the chassis a little bit for it to work, but now it looks good. Once again this has a 9.6V battery inside with full ESC and steering servo. I do need to add a bumper, as the steering mechanism is a weak spot. I'll show some inside pictures to show what I did when I got the chance. This one has a forward located battery to reduce wheelies and flips going up hills. The car is the left is a Radio Shack Hot Machine I bought for a huge £11 or so, with a different body shell. This one a 360 motor (upgraded to 390 motor) 4WD and real suspension - essentially it's a 4WD version of the QD MT series. And the QD bodies are a perfect match. With the motor upgrade it packs a decent punch, although still waiting to find a low turn 390 motor. It's pretty heavy, but low geared, and even in high just ploughs through heavy grass. Love these little 1/14 monsters.
  8. I'm really enjoying the look of the Kumamon Holiday buggy, now discontinued and quite expensive. I was thinking how I'd like to get something like a Rising Fighter and put the bear in the cockpit. I'm really not a fan of having a human driver, never have been, but a cuddly bear is a quite different proposition. Has anyone found a source of Kumamon bears in different scales or separately please? I'd love to throw one in a 1/14 Monster Truck too. I guess I could make one from Fimo or something perhaps, I wonder if anyone has tried that. I just need the head and shoulders.
  9. NiMH and brushed for me, although I have a brushless in the Pumpkin QD as it only had space for a 280 and lacked much punch. Brushless motors are great in older cars (especially the toy grade upgrades that I do) where the size of the motor really limits performance, and smaller motors easily burn out. For normal sized cars that can take a 540, brushed is fast enough for me. That being said a smaller brushless motor may give the same speed but with lower power use and higher efficiency so you can get more run time. Brushless doesn't have to mean insane power. I used NiMH for safety and ease I just don't need the power of a Lipo. That being said I use NiMH because that's what the old cars I used to play with used (or NiCd) and just got used to it. It's good that everyone is different and likes different things. When searching for an RC forum I liked this place as there seemed a real mix of some people wanting modern power and some wanting old school appeal, and neither was right or wrong.
  10. Do let us know how you get on please. I also wonder if a 370 would work? I saw a video where someone had added one, but not sure how much cutting was needed? I picked up another car, a Taiyo Wild Ranger to play around with too. These days I just wait till I can see something for around £15 or so posted - hopefully without the controls so don't feel to bad replacing the electronics. They are excellent little cars.
  11. Do it! I'm sure you'd find a way to get it done, take some photos, and measurements, and people would give ideas I'm sure.
  12. Very cool. I wonder if you could convert to a real RC car, but it's probably a collectors' item.
  13. Inaurgural run this morning driving in the mostly empty park. First impressions are good, although a little lacking in speed. On concrete it did pick up the pace, but I think even the high gear is too low for any super speed, perhaps 20 km/h or so. On grass and bumps it was great however, even in high gear it just simply ploughed through fields even the longest thickest grass. Great for a trail, wooded areas, dirt and foliage. Unlike the QD Pumpkin the car won't grip roll, perhaps due to the wider stance, but the grip when driving the grip is great and it's surprisingly able to stay in a straight line, even on very bumpy ground. Going backwards less successful due to the play in the steering, but that's not a real issue. Next stop, brushless perhaps? I know I said I didn't want it too fast, but a little extra boost would be good. Might just need a fresh battery!
  14. All done alongside the proper QD. Nothing on the 'Clod' is made by Tamiya, but matches very well. Tyres are almost identical as you can see! Other bits are just very similar in design. Maybe slightly thinner plastic, but seems the same quality. Will be fun to compare them driving, the pumpkin is 2WD at 1.6 kg with a 2030 brushless, the Clod is 2.1 kg with a low turn 390 and 4WD. Heavier but does seem more powerful, just like a mini Clod should be! Both are powered by a 9.6v pack, very 90s toy grade. In fact these feel like the toys I wish they had made when I was 13. I'd love to compare to the real Clod too, but I think if they collided mine would turn to dust.
  15. Nice one Yes, batteries have moved on a lot since I was a kid, when you'd get 10 mins run time at best. The 380 motor and a large capacity NiMH is going to give a really nice run time. A small brushless might give even more, as they are more efficient. I also only use NiMH, I tend to charge overnight with an auto cut off - charging at just 1 amp regardless of capacity.
  16. Put together this 1/14 Clod Copy and converted to hobby grade.
  17. Well, I managed to get a huge chunk of this done today. First thing I looked at was the steering. The original used a 5 wire servo with non proportional steering. This was slow, and really needed sorting out if this car was going to be good for anything but sitting on a shelf. The picture below is the original set up, you can see that quite a bit of hot glue was used on the original to fix wires in place. The original servo was connected to the an L shaped cover that sits over the gears. I removed this cover to have a look inside. See the white box inside the hole? This is what the servo has to connect to. I put together a servo horn with a little screw as a nub that would do the job. I think the photo below is an early prototype. With some super sticky double sided pads and electrical tape I attached this to the vertical part of the L shaped cover. Thankfully the fit was almost perfect with the modern servo just fitting in where the old one used to sit with an almost identical action. You can see a sticky pad is sandwiched between the servo and the cover. The whole thing is tightly bound in electrical tape. I flipped it over, slotted it in and screwed it all together, and job done. I've seen a few people say the steering is really tricky on these cars, but I think they removed the entire assembly and tried something more radical. I'm amazed at how solid it feels. I really didn't want to glue anything, but this way I've managed to get a modern servo to fit with no dremel action, and I can replace the servo easily enough. The range of steering is really good, I used a decent etronix servo to give it some punch. There is a bit of play in the steering, but I can live with that, this car isn't meant to track a perfect racing line or anything. With that done I had a look at the motor. The only tricky bit was removing the original pinion but in the end it came off, the 360 motor was removed and a Helion 390 motor added. The pinion is just a push fit so I'll need to add some loctite soon. The motor just about fits, it's about 2 mm from the shocks. Connected to a HW 1060 the is a huge difference in speed and acceleration compared to the 360. This thing will wheelie on on a wooden floor (whilst in high gear) and was happy ploughing through the grass on my lawn that's not been mowed this last summer. Amazing difference in performance. Not been outside to test speed yet, but the punch is fantastic with a low gearing and 4WD. Too fast to drive indoors for sure. Rather than use 8 x AA batteries I made space for a 9.6v pack, which fitted with very little drama at all. For the main mechanism of the car that was about it. Next was the bodywork. I wanted white wheels, so out came the spray paint. I'm not very good at spray painting, but I'm getting better, and it was simple enough, I just always rush and never wait for coats to dry. The body of this car was my QD clone which stopped working as the motor kept cooking due to high gearing. I redid the chrome bits, as these were really cheap looking. I went for a gloss black base coat with the "chrome" over the top. It's not really chrome, but it looks like a nice aluminium or stainless steel vibe. And here it is: I also chopped down the massive front bumper and re-attached. And it's pretty much done. I need to finish the black and yellow pinstriping (for this I need some more electrical tape) see if I can add bearings (at least the the main axles) to keep the grit out the gearboxes add some lights add a lower bumper add my cat as a driver Overall very happy so far. It looks like a mini clodbuster, and being 4x4 has a little more in common with a real clod than the QD series version. It's really pretty punchy, much more so than I was expecting; that 390 motor has really given it some zip. Best thing is the car cost £11 posted, and I've got an all black version in the pipeline. This will use the strange wheels you can see in the first picture. Any questions, do shout and hopefully this can inspire someone to take the plunge and try some of these toy grade classics.
  18. Interested in this thread, I've got my little Nephew a Vulcan and one day I'll convert it for him so it's got more power and speed, I've had an email from his mum asking where I got it, as a few of the local parents have taken notice and want one too - so glad it's getting used. Can I ask how the servo addition went? I never looked into this before giving it to him. I was thinking of just Hobbywing 1060 and better lower turn brushless motor. It's low geared, so not too worried about burn out. Andrew
  19. Another build using a vintage toy grade car and upgrading it to make it much more user friendly and faster. This build uses a RadioShack Hot Machine as the base. The Hot Machine was made for RS in the 90s and is a great example of just how good quality these toys used to be. The truck is four wheel drive with differential on front and rear wheels, two speed gearbox, decent suspension and soft rubber tyres. This car has clearly taken a lot from the Quick Drive MT series with the chassis being almost identical, and the bodies are swappable with no modification needed. The tires are also a perfect match too, which gives me many more options if I need to upgrade. The car cost me £11.50 posted, and there are a fair few about, so it should not be hard to find spares if something breaks (....in fact I've got another on the way..) As always it's not all good news - the electronics are not great, the steering slow and the 360 motor underpowered and there doesn't seem to be any options for bearings. Interestingly when I gave the RadioShack Off Roader a new ESC it went quite quickly (despite the 280 motor) so I'm not sure what's going on here, as a quick trial with a proper Esc was still pretty slow - the 360 motor might just be a really bad one perhaps? Or the drivetrain has a massive amount of friction, but despite the car having no bearings the wheels seem to spin ok when the motor is taken out, so we shall see. the plan is: replace the 360 Motor with a more powerful 380 or 390 motor. I don't want to go brushless, as this doesn't have bearings, and I don't want to destroy the gearbox either add a proper steering servo add a new Esc, radio gear etc. file down the battery bay to take a 7.2v or 9.6v stick remove the monstrous body shell and replace with the 1/15 Clodbuster style body I've got remove the peeling chrome on the wheels and paint white do something with that massive front bumper Hopefully by the end I'll have a car that looks like a 1/15 Clod, but is 4x4 and fast enough to be a little bit exciting (20-25 km/h would be perfect). Anyway, here is the original. You can see the body is oversized and really doesn't look that great, but I'm hoping I'm going to get something that looks much more scale. I like the suitable for "smooth off-road" line on the box, it hardly inspires confidence but I think with a little more power this will be quite capable of getting over some decent lumps, the low gear is very low indeed, the suspension is ok too (for what it is..) and it takes full sized MP tires. I'll begin by stripping it all down, and seeing how to install a steering servo, as this is pretty critical and might not be easy. The front end of this car is different to the QD as it's 4WD, so hopefully there will be a good solution. The rear is just installing a new motor, a piece of cake I hope. I know these aren't for everyone, but hopefully this may inspire someone, and there are lots around on Ebay.
  20. Fantastic craftsmanship Looks a lot like a QD Pumkin, I wonder what model he used, or did he just pull a few together perhaps. In my other hobby I make drum kits, so I do appreciate a really nice piece of woodwork. Looks great.
  21. I'm looking for a 380/390 motor. Ideally the Tamiya Sport Tuned 380, but I can't seem to find any in UK stock. Failing that another 380/390 motor - something of a similar power, as I've currently got a 360 that's just not powerful enough. Thanks in advance.
  22. Nice one. I really liked the original paint job however!
  23. I'm not sure about anyone else, but I sure fancy a nice cold can of Holoubek.
  24. Thanks. I agree about the wheels, they were just what I had. They were originally black, so I had to mask off the tire and spray paint. The front wheel is flipped to give a greater wheelbase which is why it looks odd. In the long run I will get some better wheels but I want to check it works first. I'm happy with the white, they are just not the right shape.. Glad to hear your glued car is still going strong!
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