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Nikko85

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Everything posted by Nikko85

  1. Edit the first post, you should be able to change the title?
  2. It certainly can be. I'm not anti basher but I've certainly seen some videos of certain famous youtubers where very heavy vehicles are going head height wayyyyy closer to kids than should be. In areas designated for kids. An xmaxx in the face could well be fatal, or at least life changing.
  3. No photos on the shouting thread you clown. 🤣
  4. I have tried to downsize, but I often look at project I've sold (or since dismantled to do something new) and kinda miss them, so I end up buying back or doing again anyhow, which costs more in the long run. For example I now longer own any of these which I regret (most had new bodies put one or moved to something else...). I really regret the King Cab, I think I sold it to someone here, but enjoy it! I've got around 16 cars - (2 x MF01x, Pumpkin, 1 x RadioShack, 2 x Nikko, 2 x GF01, 2 x QD MT, 3 x QD buggy, Carrera Mario Yoshi, 1 x Mardave and a WIP monster truck). How many could I happily play with and that be enough? Probably just the GF01 Jeep, MF01x Stadium Truck and QD FJ45. Everything else is either not quite as nice as those, or not quite as fun. If I want to crawl the GF01 is good, the MF01x is fast and the QD is an old school solid axle basher and lovely to drive. Most are in the loft, where I could do with some shelving, but they don't take up any useful space. Could I cut down? Perhaps, but selling on eBay is horrible and I know if I sold some of them I'd be tempted to just make them again. Actually thinking about it a couple of the QD buggies and the Mardave really could go - but I'd end up selling for less than the parts cost - perhaps I might see if there are any takers here. There's not much out there that now tickles my fancy - a 1/12 style King Cab/Monster Racer is probably about the only car I think I'd really want to add.
  5. You are right, those seem to be tricker, no idea why. Personally I wouldn't worry to much about 18T vs 20T on a GF01, it'll be plenty punch and fast enough on either, but that is strange.
  6. You need 18T or 20T 0.6 Mod 5mm shaft pinion. Tamiya wont do them. 18T or 20T is the number of teeth, 0.6 Mod is the gear size and 5mm is the shaft. https://www.bspspares.co.uk/products/l618b-module-0-6-0-6m-18t-18-teeth-tooth-motor-pinion-gear-black-540-5mm-bore The GF01 can do 18T or 20T. 20T will give you more speed and 18T more torque but with modern brushless you'll have more than either of both on that chassis.
  7. These Nikko F10s are nice little chassis. They are certainly on the level of a grasshopper but with Wild One style front suspension saving you the crazy camber angles changes with suspension movement. About the only thing that stop these being fundamentally hobby grade is the bizarre decision to block access to the gear box with a pin and collars attaching the gearbox to the transmission mounts. In this truck the pins were so tight they were stoping the gearbox rotate in the mounts. I tried to remove the collars but they were stuck tight with rust so cut them off. Now I can add bearing in the gearbox. It's essentially a grasshopper gearbox with a metal diffs. As befitting the opening paragraph of this build I was, of course, one bearing short. I have heard the grasshopper gearbox will drop straight in, but I will try and use the original parts. Axles still look nice! Wheels and body aside there there was very little damage to the car, but the gearbox was cracked where the shocks mounted. This means I shall have to find another way to mount the shocks. The rear bumper that attaches to the gearbox gives me some mounting options or I could 3D print something.
  8. The gods of RC luck can be fickle creatures. How many times do we finish a build just to find we are one bearing or one screw short or the shocks we wanted just don't fit by 1 mm. But it can go the other way too, sometimes things happen that are just total good luck, and today is one of those days. I recently picked up a cheap Nikko Hilux for what I thought was a good price, but the body was really fragile with sun damage and the tires were toast. I considered a few options, like using lunchbox wheels, tires and axles but all these would cost more than I wanted. On my bigfoot RadioShack build I recently swapped out the hot machine wheels and tires, leaving me a with a spare set of RadioShack tires. On the chance they might work I gave them a shot and bingo, they fit perfectly. Although the hilux body was also cracked toast, I just happened to have a spare proline chevy body, could that work? It does. The wheelbase is fine for a stadium truck, the yellow wheels and red shocks go perfectly with the colours in the body and the width is spot on! So my broken hilux with rubbish wheels can become something else for almost no extra cost. I need to fix the rear gearbox and mount the body slightly lower, but it looks like it will work. I may keep the electronics, or upgrade to modern 2.4 ghz. Ps if this doesn't work I will get a DT02 chassis and take it from there!
  9. The spare hot machine turned up, so I swapped the wheels over and added CW01 tires. It's got less of a truggy look now, which is great. Softer tires will give a little more suspension too. The rest of the truck will in storage as a spares, and I've found and use for the original tires. 😁
  10. Yes. It's working well for me now and makes total sense. Thanks.
  11. Does anyone know of a good gear distance calculator I can use to make my own gearbox please? I want something where I can input the number of teeth and modulus of two gears, and then work out how far about the two gears should be placed. I'm happy to do this manually if there are good tables to use or a calculation, or just plug something in! I might be able to 3D print a solution to a problem, but measuring by hand it going to be tricky and probably involve lots of wasted time, as mesh can be down to the 0.25 mm or less. Edit: This one might work, it seemed to give me nonsense yesterday, but I was using it on a phone. https://evolventdesign.com/pages/center-distance-calc
  12. Thanks so much, I've just seen pictures of the chassis, and I'm not sure they are the same, however the gears do look identical (and same gear ratio etc.), and some of the parts are identical too, It certainly might be worth finding out, although I'd love to see a video with a CR12 and this and compare, although it's "only" £20 or so. Output drive to shafts looks the same. I think the CR12 gearbox has issues (although mostly people said the GPM gears fixed it, so I surprised when mine got shredded) with any luck this will be a better solution!.
  13. So, I tried with a brushed motor with the FJ40 body as shown, it was a nice little runner, and could be a good crawler, but there wasn't enough speed to make it that fun - the hard body is adding a lot of weight. so, I've gone down another route. This is not the exact body I'm doing to use, but very similar shape. I want to recreate the Bigfoot 18 (a car which the Agrios is loosely based on). This will involve a slash or losi 1/16 body painted in blue, with the bigfoot decals I've developed and a few new ones. My hope is to have a very light 1/16 Monster Truck that I can take around a BMX track. Or perhaps in a slightly different livery. I may cut out some of the rear and then of the shell and cross brace too. I'm really not sure about gears, I'm tempted to get the GPM set again, but I want to find out why the last ones shredded first. I'm exploring brushed options on this for now, if I find that lasts well enough with just a little wear then I'll explore another stainless set - something went seriously wrong to shred them so bad, I might just not have tightened something vital (as well as the out of phase oscillation that Mad Axe mentioned).
  14. Yes. When it comes to Nikkos there are lots of collectors out there, so chopping them out and making them work to modern standard isn't very cost effective compared to just buying a cheaper Tamiya, but some brands go really cheaply. I'm now down to one Nikko, a Road Express, as it's lovely and much better suited to a small house than a Tamiya 1/14 truck. Full hobbygrade conversion of course!
  15. I think this is one of my favourite Tamiyas on the forum. Love it. And @Busdriver's too.
  16. I took my little Bigfoot to the park. It went great for about 5 mins and then went fizz as the pinion worked loose on the motor shaft. I had been conservative in how far down I pushed the pinion, but now have squeezed on tight using a c clamp with some 638 compound. Nothing damaged at least. Out in the wild I think it looks great, proper 80s RC monster truck vibes like a Big Boss or such. It's hard to tell from the pictures but it's pretty tiny. When it run running it was running nicely. Even on high gear it's still quite low geared and it's not light, so it's not super speedy, but goes pretty well. I could look into Lithium Ion AA to put it to 12 volts, but that might be overkill. Oddly enough the terrible turning circle didn't really matter once outside in space to drive. I need to add a roll bar, I'm considering making one from aluminium bent into an u shape.
  17. Started work on the Bigfoot 18. It won't have this livery, but it will have a similar shell, either this or a 1/16 losi body. I need to sort body posts, but it should work ok. Will be a fun little runner I hope.
  18. Well the Nikko body snapped in half when I dropped it a meter, it was never going to last. Usually Nikko bodies are well made, but this one was crumbling - extreme sun damager perhaps? Back to the drawing board. I don't suppose you have a Pumpkin by any chance? I'd love to see a photo of this body compared to a Pumpkin. This is looking awesome btw, don't let me derail the thread!
  19. I think I've replied, good luck with the fix, and post some pictures.
  20. What with enjoying my 1/16 Bigfoot I ordered a cheap 1/16 Team Losi MSCT body. https://www.rccaraction.com/losi-116-mini-stronghold-sct-rtr/ I plan to make a 1/16 Bigfoot 18 using the Team Associated chassis I have (which was due to be a Pumpkin, but could really do with a lexan body). Should make for a fun modern monster truck to go with the old school one. Slightly longer wheelbase, but the same rough scale.
  21. Yes it's a QD shell. Nikko didn't make anything similar, but Radio Shack and Tandy did, the Street Comber/Sonic Thunder and a couple more used the same shell. It might well be the same mold, I can't remember, but they are completely interchangeable. My quess is that Tamiya outsourced this to a third party, who also made cars for RadioShack (RadioShack didn't make cars, they rebadged Nikkos, Taiyos and others). Nikko made a monster truck of a similar scale, the Big Dude. The issue with Nikkos is that they are rare and often expensive where as RadioShack 4x4 and Hot Machines are available easily, so despite my moniker I don't have many of them at all.
  22. I've just spent £23 on another one of these for spares. I picked up the Hot Machine II. These have the benefit of taking 115 x 71 mm tamiya tires. The wheels are also wider and have less offset, so they tuck under the body more, meaning it's got a more of a classic monster truck look and less a truggy look. It'll also mean a spare pair of axles and chassis, which can only help.
  23. You need to hammer the axle whilst keeping the collar still by supporting the wheel. You need to find a small punch or similar to put on the axle and hammer. I have had mixed success with these Nikko axles. For my Turbo Panther I was able remove these, but I've also had a couple of 1/24 road express trucks I've never been able to get the wheels off to access the gear box. Good luck.
  24. Is 'raptor' taken? Incorporates the falcon theme but also something new.
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