GTodd

Hi gents, I plan on getting the new Bruiser, but I would like to make it a Mountaineer. Ive already sourced some mountaineer decals, what else is needed to convert the body from that of a Bruiser to a Mountaineer?

I agree!!!! Does anyone know where we can order one from yet?? I asked a few hobby stores here in the good old USA and they have no clue if it isnt a Traxxas.

Thats exactly the kind of fee back I was looking for, thanks!!!! So the internals are holding up to the brushless abuse?

Hello gents, I purchased an original in the package Avante Ball dif kit last year when the re-re was announced. I was waiting a bit to purchase a 2011 Avante until the new Black Avante was announced. I am going to purchase a black Avante and do not need the original ball diff kit. Im looking for 100 obo US, yes I will ship to Europe etc, you pay for shipping. The kit is still in its original packaging. Full pictures available upon request.

All good points gents. I used to have the Avante Graphite set on my original Avante when I used to run it (I’ve sold it, yeah I know!). But if i recall the differences are: Suspension arms, upper tie rods, sway bars and mounts, the impossible to find lower shock mount, front shock tower ( I have the hicap version), rear shock tower and mount, and rear wing mount. I have the various aluminum chassis posts that you need; I figure the rest shouldn’t be too pricey . But it looks like the dual ball diff torque splitter set original hop up won’t be needed. Anyone want to purchase it?

Im going to purchase a BS, order some Egress chassis parts and suspensions arms, order a egress body and drive as such for a bit. When Im done itll be built per the manual and join the shelf with its older and original brother.

I liked the mounty better, the bodies are the same right? I could just order a original set of stickers off ebay.

Of all the re-re's this will be the first one that I havent owned that I want. Ive got an Avante and Top Force they were my two favorites of the Re-re's. The bruise, now thats one that I wanted when I was kid and still would like to have today. I cant afford the priced that NIB costs, this is awesome! PS Where the heck is the Astute??????

Ive decided to shelve the Top Force Evo. I’ve enjoyed driving it around the track but I can’t keep the rear gear box cover / Shock mount from cracking. I’ve tried screwing longer screws into the cover to no avail, and even added another screw between the factory two, and it still snapped before the lipo was out. It is a shame because it hooks up and turns with the best of them. I think I am going to purchase a 502x, to me it is the modern equivalent of the EVO, shaft drive and all, I was thinking an Avante black but that might be too fragile too.

Thats exactly what I wanted to hear! Thank you. I think Im going to get the Black one, as I have an original on the shelf all ready. Thanks again.

Im torn between purchasing the BS Avante or the TRF 502x buggy. YES, I know two completely different buggies. Ive been running my Top Force EVO but I am sick and tired of the rear shock tower mount breaking. Otherwise, the old EVO is awesome at that track, handles great, has good run time, and insane speed with the 8.5 Novak (if you tune the ESC correctly any trans can handle the power of a brushless). I just want to have fun, both buggies are around 500, and electrics from the EVO will go to the one I purchase. Im leaning toward the Avante, I have an Original and with the updates the Re -Re should be more reliable. So my question for you guys, hows it holding up? Have any of you discovered a weak area that keeps breaking? I know the new TRF cars are built like tanks (I have a 801xt) but are the new materials in the Re-Re holding up just as well, but Id rather have a classic to run with the DS. Thanks gents.

Ive been running my Top Force Evo with a 8.5 Novak and its been great other than that rear bulkhead that keeps breaking where the shock tower mount is located. So how have you guys fixed this problem?

That is the standard servo saver that Tamiya has been using for decades, the Dyna Storm had a real good one, but the majority of the kits still use that type of servo saver. You dont want a metal servo saver on your Frog as any impacts will be sent to your servo instead of the servo saver. The servo saver did what it was supposed to do, it broke, not your servo.

Darn South Carolina rain! Well no day at the track for me. I guess I'll continue to work on the EVO. Im looking at Thursday to try and get the DS to hook up.

Thanks!!!! What do you consider to be loose? Can you elaborate bud? I rebuilt mine to the specs of the manual last night, ie the dif stops moving when I try to move it and requires some force to make it turn when held by the wing mount as indicated in the manual. Thanks for the help. I love watching this gorgeous car run. I just want it to be able to put some power down. Mods please merge the posts.

Maybe I didn't explain my problem well enough. I'm not concerned too much about on power oversteer in the turns. When I start off at more than 1/2 throttle the rear will loop around with the front wheels point perfectly strait ahead. I rebuilt the diff and slipper last night and I think I originally built both incorrectly ( I had shims on both sides of the dif and installed the spring on the clutch incorrectly). Right now I have the differential adjusted so that it requires just a little force to move when Im holding both out drives with the wing mount as instructed in the manual so Im guessing that its tight but not locked. I'm heading to the track tomorrow (4 weeks leave!!!!) and Ill post some results. Thanks for the help gents. I am running a Novak Brushless but its the equivalent of a hot stock motor so I dont think Horse Power is the issue. PS Im running on a hard, clay packed track with bow ties on the rear and the rib/spike super gripper Tamiya tires upfront (not the super astute/DS ones).

Hahaha the Vajra, what a ridiculous name.

Great explanation, thank you! Im going to take apart the rear today to rule out me messing it up, and than use your tips.

Gorgeous car, and to answer a few questions earlier. Yes the EVO can handle a 5.5 brushless just fine. Ive got one in mine right now. Yes, the reas shock tower/gear box is a pain. The long screw trick will fix it!

Between tanks of my 801XT I have been running my TF EVO and DS. The EVO is doing pretty well minus the Rear Shock Tower/Gear Box issue. I'm at a lost with the DS. If I run the slipper as suggested by the manual it will scream and slip. I'm slowly tightening it. Should I tighten all the way down like a traditional slipper and than back the nut out a 1/4 turn? Secondly if I tighten the differential as instructed in the manual the car will spin right out when I add throttle. If I loosen the differential even just a 1/4 turn it slips badly. Any ideas? I love the car, it handles great, and I've gotten it to turn and jump well. But when I apply throttle it comes right around. Please help, or I might have to break the Astute out.

Very nice y friend! Now paint the Egress body and hit the track! With the V@#$%TYALKDEIA coming out you will be able to replace any part that might break. So have it!!!!!

Between tanks of my 801XT I have been running my TF EVO and DS. The EVO is doing pretty well minus the Rear Shock Tower/Gear Box issue. I'm at a lost with the DS. If I run the slipper as suggested by the manual it will scream and slip. I'm slowly tightening it. Should I tighten all the way down like a traditional slipper and than back the nut out a 1/4 turn? Secondly if I tighten the differential as instructed in the manual the car will spin right out when I add throttle. If I loosen the differential even just a 1/4 turn it slips badly. Any ideas? I love the car, it handles great, and I've gotten it to turn and jump well. But when I apply throttle it comes right around. Please help, or I might have to break the Astute out. Sorry I meant to post in vintage. Mods I re-posted in the vintage section, please remove this one.

Alot of people just want to repeat what others say: ie the Avante is too heavy and complicated etc. True, but with proper tuning ie shock oils, shock piston holes, springs, and height adjustment the avante can be made to run and turn pretty well. With its limited front suspenesion big jumps are an issue. But the Avante can run with the big boys of the era when probably set up. Add the egress narrow wheels and she will turn that much better. Yes a Top Force with the same driver will show its "tail lights" but it will be close. With modern parts from the Re-re you can run the Avante hard and not worry

Hey guys, been running the Dya and Evo between tanks of the 801xt. They are a blast!!!! Of course Ive pulled the screws from the rear bulkhead of the Evo, but I have spares. Do any of you have a spare front bulkhead for the Dyna Storm? Of course Ill pay for it. Thanks gents!!!

As promised, pictures. Man does she fly. The trucks hauls the mail and is quite the jumper. ps A word of caution, apparently gear mess is critical when dealing with a big block tq beast. I had to much spacing between the spur and clutch bell and stripped the clutch bell.