Jump to content

GTodd

Members
  • Content Count

    2121
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by GTodd

  1. Need to build that graphite! That's very iconic!
  2. Looks like some of my links are wonky, I'll fix. Yeah I never liked the gold, too blingy and NJ for me, and I'm from NJ! I didn't just want to do another worlds either. The team car has a nice contrast and I love it!!
  3. Back where she belongsā€¦.. https://i.postimg.cc/W12NCQZd/IMG-20240209-185559848.jpg[/img][/url] I love the look of the Jconcepts chassis brace, serves a purpose as well. https://i.postimg.cc/k5GnXKf9/IMG-20240209-185954592.jpg[/img][/url] Looking good!!
  4. Very nice build! Thank you for the share!
  5. NEW EVO and New Egress are not fragile as the plastics are new. 10 years from now, sure. Right now, no. Both would be fun. EVO would be more competitive DBO1 would be the best and is still modern enough to fight for wins at the club level.
  6. Oh for sure, no autos! I am looking into the feasibility of using the Porsche Boxster trans. Apparently some have used it in their GT40s.
  7. I think Super lite and RCR which make very high quality cars. I REALY want to build a GT40 type car, BUT the mid engine special trans make the builds very pricey.
  8. Yep, I'm in America! Currently looking at FFR FIA 289, 65 Coupe, and ERAs 289. The ERA has higher resale, but the FFRs are easier to work on and both are near 1:1 replicas of the real deal. The ERA gets the nod for authentism due to its Jag rear, but the FFRs S550 independent rear is good too ....hmmmmmm
  9. With life, an amaizng family, and work I find that I build and drive RC less and less. My son and I will drive the cars a few time out of the year but not enough to justify the size of my collection. Im thinking about jumping in with two feet into the world of kit cars. Ive got Ford 289 in the garage torn down and IM right now looking into 289 FIA Cobra or Daytona kits. I really want to go a GT40 but the mid engine trans adds huge cost to the kits. Anyway, have any of you gone the first size kit car route?
  10. Fun but the build goes too quickly! Very simple car. Ill be order (2) Just stock Brushless systems. One for this and one for my Astute. I plan on running a comparison series of the RC10 against some Tamiya stuff! Anyway back to the build. First up lets split that Stealth open and see how it looks.... Looks brand new. Case and spare motor plate I had on, as well as the modern slipper. And some Jconcepts goodies. A graphite trans brace as the stock one was known to flex ALOT, and a nice set of turbuckles.
  11. It was a great weekend, I hope you all had a good one too. I spent some time on the team car, man its looking good!!! The foundation is a left over C marked team chassis from my worlds car build a few years ago. Im still waiting for some hardware, I hate building shocks, and because of that shocks are up first. I'm building this as how I think it would look if AE did a rere of the team car. These NOS World Car rere shocks will contribute to that flavor. Green slime, and seals assembled similarly to Tamiya shocks. ....and shocks ready to go The white parts have turned out very nice, here is a rear arm ready to go onto the chassis upload and share your photos Some goodies have arrived!!! Im pleased with the whitening result, espescially those wide white front arms that are pretty rare. These days the only thing that I can find are over priced RPM arms, 3d prints, or black arms. The car is looking very good already, black chassis, white arms, and white shock towers look very good. The Jconcepts stuff is so nice, I love this steering. Thank you Jconcepts for supporting the vintage hobby!
  12. I couldn't save the majority of the ball studs, build will start with the shocks, mounting of the suspension arms etc that don't require the ball studs. Update shortly!
  13. I was out of RC by time the world's came out originally. Girls and real cars had stolen my attention. The graphite was the last RC10 that I remember from my childhood. A graphite rere would be amazing.
  14. Ive soaked the "white" parts for three days now in 6% peroxide. I think they came out pretty good. In the mason Jar Comparing the untreated battery box, with the parts treated for three days.
  15. Id just do it, they are getting harded and harder to find, BUT theres a strong chance that AE is bringing out some kind of Gen1 this year other then the Clear one.
  16. I have a mint chassis and nose plate that Im debating on using for the build as I want to run this. Ive got a rere stealth and Worlds shock kit. Going to build it as what if AE rere'd this.
  17. She's going to be a chore. OJ worked ok for lightly rusted CVs and cap head screws. I'll try CLP next. The peroxide parts are coming along. It should be warm and sunny today. Today will be the day for it to work
  18. I have a left over black C Mark Team Car chassis from my Worlds car build a few years ago. I decided that I wanted to build another RC10 so I started collecting parts. First thing I purchased was a rere Worlds car stealth and shocks set. One night on a wim I won an auction for a RC10 team car. It looked good in pictures. It's a complete pile of trash. The white parts are a dark yellow, screws and nuts are rusted, shocks are a leaky mess and many parts are cracked I've read about people using peroxide to whiten the yellowed parts, they are currently soaking in it. The rusted screws and nuts are soaking in OJ. Either the OJ will clean them or strip them of all color and render them unusable, we will.soon find out. Pics included is the car pre break down. Here we go again.
  19. Did any of you score the very nice original Egress on Evil bay yesterday?!it was at 284 all week and sold for 385. My budget was 350, so I lost. It was a steal even at 385. Has a very nice O2 and Cpr unit. Congratulations to whoever got it!
  20. Nothig at all, Tamiya keeps reprining the high volume reres with no new chassis reprodiced since the Super Astute. Getting a little lame, Tamiya needs to release a big rere like an original chassis 959, Kingcab, etc.
  21. PS, Loving the build OP. If I hadnt purchased a TRF511 last year Id be in for an optima mid in order to scratch the belt drive itch. I bet a rere optima mid would do just fine against modern hardware.
  22. Same, other than the rere Bruiser which copied their origonal design Tamiya tends to keep to the KISS methodology. From their basic shocks to their big bored they use a combination of cirlce bushings and spacers. No odly shaped hardware to misalign that will cause leaks.
  23. Surface doesn't dictate gear or ball diff usage, they both work well on all surfaces when talking about 1/10 buggies. Same for a one way, but you can't use the one way with the gear diffs on the dB01 family of cars.
  24. In my opinion surface doesn't matter in regards to gear differential use. Ball differentials were the way to go for near two decades due to their consistency and strength. Sealed gear differentials add a tuning factor that you can't get will a ball differential through the use of different oil viscosities. I like the gear diffs I've got in the 511, they help get the balance to exactly how I want. That said it drives really nice with the ball diffs. Didn't the RRR come with the 39T gear differential or was that just the 503? The option pack gear diffs are 37T.
  25. Wide angle front helps get greater turn in. I'm not good enough to tell the difference w the arms. The cars have very well out of the box, not sure what benefit wide angle on the rear wil do.
×
×
  • Create New...