GTodd
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Posts posted by GTodd
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1 hour ago, IXLR8 said:
Dog bones, ball cups, hinge pins and shock shafts wear out due to the amount of sand in our soil. My bearings fail for the same reason but of course replacements are readily available.
I swear I have no affiliation lol. Fan RC offers all other then oddly enough the six gear stuff. How's the new idlers? They seem really tough. Haven't had a chance to run it yet. Build still under way.
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1 hour ago, Kowalski86 said:
Its not just about driving our RCs, some of us would like to be able to restore old AE cars without paying inflated scalper prices.
Yeah for sure.
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AEs release strategy is very interesting. Nothing in the past 10 years. Then boom 4 very desirable cars in the past 6 months.
As for spares, AE said that they are coming and now hard do you all drive these things. I brake fat more non TRF parts then AE. In fact I've yet to brake an AE part .
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Shock tower and bulkhead assembled and installed on the chassis. Fit and finish is very impressive. I appreciate the hex cap head screws. They might not be as clean looking as Tamiya:s standard type screws , but the ability to drive them easily into hard nylon plastic is useful.
Another view, looks great no matter the point of view! You can also see the unused hole below the wing tubes that were first used with the team cars I believe .
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Those bodies are by far the best new bodies. They make the car look sooo good.
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1 hour ago, guggles said:
The original idler gears were moulded poorly and required alot of filling or running to get the transmission to run smoothly.
The innermost hole under the wing mounts on the rear bulkhead wasnt on the originals and was a popular trick to use that hole with longer camber links. This changes the roll center.
I have the Jammin Jay arrive on how to improve the trans. I didn't have to do any of the mods. AE has done a great job. Yes I remember reading about the extra hole, I believe the OG Worlds has that first right?
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Up next, install the trans which requires the rear bulkhead and the rear shock tower. Enter Bag D.
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The six gear trans is very smoooooooth. The ball differential as is is very smooth, I didnt upgrade the differential balls, sand the rings, or partake in any other ball differential tricks. I have all RCCar action magazines through Dec 1999. I found articles that were focused on making the gear box smoother, more relaible, and easer to assembly. None of the tricks were needed for this assembly. The internal gears were all finely machined with no burs in between the gears or on the outsides. The mesh is perfect and again, so smooth. To note none of the issues were due to a lack of quality, the materials are of the highest quality and a joy to handle.
Here we have the shafts the internals will ride on installed. No issue here, I cleaned off the shafts with bake clean. The plate is flat and smooth. No issues here.
First issue was self inflicted but amplified by AEs use of snap rings, the evil cousin of e-clips. The outdrives use a brass bushing that I replaced with a bearing. The flanged bushing is long requiring two bearing when substituted. One flanged and one non. I mistakenly used just a flange bearing at first. I didnt realize that I had made an error until I had installed the snap ring. Even with snap ring pliers it took me a good hour on each drive to remove the snap ring. Im sure with time and experience Id get more efficient at removing the eveil snap rings, but yeah the worst and not fun.
I screwed up and forgot to take pictures of the differential assembly. The issue I had here was assembling it the way the manual recomends. AE wants you to assemble the entire assembly and then install the eclip, even with the notch I wasnt able to get the eclip on. It took me another hour of fighting this. My solution, assemble the shaft with ering, insert it into the case and then assemble the differential, this worked really well.
The one and only mod I installed was the instalation of ball bearings for the case. This was a popular period modification that provides additional support for the outdrives, the bearing are the same size that you use on the stealth's outdrives. The spare stealth donated its bearing for this build. The right side bearing is captured by the motor plate, the left side needs a small screw installed with a washer in order to capture the bearing.
All ready for the next step, great transmision, but going forward im sticking with stealths.
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1 hour ago, kyosho1 said:
Btw, for those waiting for the re-release of Avante 2001, I recalled that when Tamiya first re-released the Egress, they had also re-released the Avante 2001 bodyshell as well.
Correct, BUT there's a lot more to the 2001 then a body. Although that was pretty nice. Need the white wheels, Avante 2001 tires , and the black shocks.
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The gearbox is done, what a nightmare! I almost quit at least a dozen times. I've got a spare stealth and as you know they are drop ins. The snap rings and the differential shaft where very tough. The Tamiya Bruiser gearbox is ten times as complex and ten times easier to assemble. Pics tomorrow. Need to decompress!
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2 minutes ago, Rinskie said:
I am completely unsure how I feel bout this. I like the idea but the looks seems slightly off. If I am honest, I am not sure why I'd pick this over a DT02 or a classic Hornet.
If you like the old school lookls but cant stand the driving dynamaics and/or the lack of there of this is for you.
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....with front turnbuckes. Very nice Tamiya, very nice. Keep going.
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OK Tamiya, I see you. Well done. Thats a proper Rere/Update. Heck yeah.
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It's a racer for a stick solid axle class. You know what I meant.
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99 percent of Tamiya aren't good at racing because they were never meant for racing. Hornets, DT-02s, BigWigs, Aero Avantes, Clod busters, etc were meant to be just fun. The early race cars (Astute and Avante) weren't good race cars due to complexity, and weaknesses in their materials. Evolutions of those cares made them better for the club (Super Astute, Egress) but weren't up to the level of their contemporaries. The Top Force and Dyna Storm were/are actually pretty good race buggies but came at a time when their design philosophies were moving on. Lastly until the 2000s Tamiya never had a large race team providing feedback to the engineers and advertising on a large scale what their cars could do.
For whatever reason in the early 2000s Tamiya jumped in with both feet and created a very competitive line of TRF 1/8 and 1/10 buggies that were just as good as your AE, Losi, etc. It was a good time with everything from different levels of hardness for suspension arms and wheels, tire compound, to upgrade chassis parts for buggies based on feedback from team drivers.
Remember, Tamiya's moto used to be models that you could drive. Not race cars to win races.
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I'm in a "where have you been all of my life moment" with RC10s. Would love to see some details of your Gt refresh.
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13 hours ago, donfilippo said:
Looking great so far! Are you going for box art or for a different paint scheme?
Good luck with the gearbox!
Thank you!!I'm going to go with a derivative of Jamming Jays body using Joconcepts Worlds Dominator body .
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17 hours ago, Sir Crashalot said:
58686 VQS 2020
47470 Top Force Evo 2021
58737 Hotshot 2 2024
Those are ALL runs off current cars. Try again.
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This is where things get different. Ive now rebuilt (2) RC10 team cars, and (1) RC10T2. They all have stealth’s and got together very similarly to this, EXCEPT this has the 6 gear trans. It looks very complicated, not 3spd complicated, but very close! Here we go!!! Wish me luck.
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22 minutes ago, Ty89m said:
Yup, that's plan B. I just thought it was interesting that the manual lacked any gearing information considering how thorough the rest of the manual is.
It is very odd the fear ratios aren't provided!
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29 minutes ago, Ty89m said:
Tamiya base says the lowest ratio is 8.33:1, but no charts in my manual. I'll see if I can find the vintage manual.
I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to calculating internal ratios, especially with the over-engineered (but super cool) Avante gearing, but I ended up with an internal ratio of 2.78:1. I just counted the teeth on the spur (drive gear in manual), and worked backward using the 8.33:1 FDR with stock 22T pinion.
I'll be running the included brushed motor and stock pinion, so not a big deal, but it would be nice to know if/when I try using a brushless setup in it.
Just go by motor temp and run time, if the motor is burning hot after a few minutes you have too much pinion. If the motor stays cools and your run times are very high go up a tooth.
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On 7/11/2024 at 8:28 PM, Juls1 said:
New DB01 durga’s are readily available from Japan.
Yes, but with no spares or option support. I run a 511 at my local track , I get worried every time I crash.
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2 hours ago, F-150 said:
A YZ10 is just AE version of the dog fighter, right? Same cars, slight differences and body I would guess.
I guess, I thought the YZ10 was different too. My memories from RCcaraction recall the YZ10 being the car to beat.
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Ok I am wrong. No gear ratios in the rere Egress manual either.
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RC10DS re-release coming
in Re-Release Discussions
Posted
And AE said they were coming out with spares.....we shall see. Fair critism for sure!!!