GTodd
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Posts posted by GTodd
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My mate just sold a complete Carbon Fiber set for the D/S from tamiya on e bay. It went for a song to i think $80 Au.
That is F&R shock towers. Upper deck and main chassis all in carbon fiber.
I was lucky enough to get his last main chassis and upper deck in a trade as he knew i just bought a new Re D/S. I have got the upper carbon on but will try the standard chassis first.
My first test day is on sat at our vintage meet.
Those shocks are just the smoothest i ever felt.
Cant wait as it looks so good. We now have 5 D/S owners at our meets.
If anyone has a Tamiya Carbon Chassis out there, and they arent using it, ILL PAY!!!!!!!!!!!
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Great photos on this thread
A number of contributors to this thread have asked me for DB wide universals, since I could not find sets anywhere either myself I have decided to sell mine - as I rather they are enjoyed and used than sitting unused with my rc gear at this time.
See the ebay forum thread for a link to the sale.
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry353027
Looking forward to seeing the photos of the completed DS here!
Just realized that I never finished updating this thread last year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ill get picks up tonight, along with the EVO that is handling Brushed power awesomely!!!!!!
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Well I reside in the good old USA and I can not seem to get a hold of NIMROD. I also cant find any TR-15 pieces on the bay so I can not use them, because I cant find any parts. So does any of Tamiya's new suspension arms/blocks/drive shafts play nicely with the old Dyna???
I think I read some where that people were using Associated B4 arms on tamiya and nim rod rear suspension blocks/bulk heads is this true? Does that mean that I can use Associated B4 bulkheads/suspension blocks on the dyna storm then with the stock DS arms? Please help, dieing to use the DS again, its handling the brushless great other than the suspension blocks!!!!! No need for a new TRF201 if I can fix this!!!! Thanks guys!!!!!
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Hahahaha yeah, itll be running Top Force or DF01 wheels...
Well she is done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pics to follow once my camera charges up................Really, Really enjoyable!!!
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...And hopefully minus the rare wheels, too? Really, some very nice cars and pictures!
Hahahaha yeah, itll be running Top Force or DF01 wheels...
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Cool, GTodd
why so many arms?
They don't usu break, and if its for racing a I can happy sell you loads of used but prefect arms for peanuts so you can spend on other things.
Thanks for the offer!!!!!!!!!! I will take those arms, pm me and we will work something out. Well I did a bit of work tonight. What a fun build, in the right hands this car could still do well if you ask me. Three gear trans, check!!!! Super smooth ball dif, check!!!! Efficient and well thought out suspension check!!
Going to run stock chassis until Fibrelye shows up, hopefully the under-tray arrives in time. All most done!!!!!!!!!!!!
With out further delay:
Parts and screws organized on instructions:
Chassis with RR shock tower attached
With the gorgeous blue shocks attached
Front and rear shot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! With its older brother in view, probably jealous 'casue the good old Astutes running days are over
With my Astutes old shoes!!!!!!! They will be exercised again!!!!!!!!!
I love showing off the old rides. The beginning, middle and end of Tamiyas FRP offroad experiment.
And a peek of what will be coming off retirement via brushless too, minus the impossible to find EVO body.
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WOW beautiful, thanks for sharing. Well here is an update. Im going to order the fibrelyte graphite, the nimrod undertray and bulkhead. Ive already ordered 5 extra sets of FR and RR arms and a spare body. But anyway here is what I did tonight:
Parts organized for assembly
Diff and slipper half way assembled
Gearbox ready for the Novak brushless
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I´ve good experience sending them mail using the high priority feature.
Maybe it is difficult to identify reliable mail due to a massive SPAM-Problem
Thats a good point, however Ive replied to emails that "they" sent me and the response time is sloooooooooooooooooow. Not good when Im trying to give them money!!!!!
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It's a strange thing, when i first contacted them last year i had immediate responses now it's very hard to reach them and i had to ask your help.
I'll be ready for a "big" order on January and i hope to be able to place it without too much effort.....
In case i'll ask for your help.
Bye
WWD
Yes 959, thank you for stepping in for us. I am only still pursueing NIMROD because of you. Today I bought a new body, wing, decals, and 5 sets of FR and RR arms off of the bay due to the slow acting of NIMROD. I am still very interested in the NIMROD chassis and undertray. BUT if NIMROD keeps on dragging their feet with me, than Ill have to go to FIBRELYTE for the chassis. I want to give them my money ugh, this is getting frustrating!!!!
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Building this car has been such a joy. It reminds me of building the Astute soooooooooooooo many years ago. Same screws, same crappy press nuts (why the heck didnt the manual suggest thread lock?) Other than the already mentioned press nuts the car seems to be so well engineered, but not over engineered like its brother the Astute. I really believe it was the right car, wrong time.
I really would like to order that new chassis, but I might go for the Fibre if the price doesnt come down a bit. The car will never be an A main car with me driving so the Fibrelyte might be the answer for the chassis. I mean it was good for the factory guys right? And they did perform well sooooo. Anyway, here is another update, last until Thanksgiving is over 'cause Im going to NJ!!!!!!!!!!
Here are all the parts gathered for the next two pages of assembly
The sub assemblies gathered an ready for mounting to the chassis.
The assemblies on the chassis, oops no Blue shocks in the pic, Ill fix that in a second
Look at that angle how could this car possibly have bump steer????
And from the front, there they are..............
PS sorry for the crappy pics, just realized the resolution was turned down, next updates, better pics!!!!!!!!!
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Well I have been in touch with Nimrod, will order their parts once I get a price on their chassis. If the chassis is not more than fibrelytes than I will get it, if not I will get the fibrelytes chassis and Nimrod suspension pieces and associated body parts. As for now I am very impatient, and the DS was just calling to me to build her, soooo Im going to build her sans c clips for the suspension hinges and loctite, once the replacement parts arive I will disassemble and assemble with the upgraded parts (and pics of course!!!) but for now here she is being built into a shelfer: Sorry if it gets obnoxious but the blue shocks are in EVERY pic, love 'em. Was the use of the Blue color on them the first use of the TRF signature color? 56k beware
Here are the associated sub - assemblies grouped together, than assembled, and than assembled onto the chassis (for now).Here she is with her older brothers looking on, I hope they approve!!!!
This is the beast that will power the DS
oops sorry that was meant for FB (me in Iraq)
Here is the moto!!!!!!!!
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That is just a super photo.
PM already replied to GTodd, and I emailed nimrod for you also.
Well a loooooooooooong day at work means no update, sorry, but the weekend is here so I'lll get more done. But still no word from NIMROD!!!!
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I never seen the body of the TRF 211X. Was it sold without it?
Max
Off to work tonight the trans!!!!!!!!
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Great build. The MDC is probably the coolest thing on an RC car. Sure it's heavy and over engineered, but that's one of things we love about Tamiya.
The shocks are great. Aside from the lower seal cartridge falling out, there is only one other issue to be mentioned. You will notice that those large 10mm o-rings at the top will start to crack and eventually tear after a year or two. This also applies for the 5th one that seals the little pop-off cap on the MDC. This is pretty normal. I've replaced a few so far and it just keeps happening again (even if you oil them). Of course the Tamiya replacment is sold in sets of two for the rediculous price of around $5. I recently found HPI makes an identical 10x2mm rubber o-ring and it's sold in packs for 10 for around $4.30 shipped on ebay. The part number is 75078. When searching try HPI 75078 or HPI75078. I've got some in the mail right now and am looking forward to giving them a try.
I'll whore out my DS one more time to keep the fire burning in this thread:
Well stuck waiting for my nimrod parts (959) did you get my messages? Anyway, was the DS a TRF car? And what is this graphite chassis kit from Tamiya I keep hearing about? Pics anyone?
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True, but in the eyes of many people, our hobby is kinda wrong anyways
@Todd: I'm glad you started building yours, you really won't regret it, it's a great car! I found it the most fun build I've had so far, actually! I can recommend you to use liquid threadlock on the press nuts of the rear suspension and front suspension blocks. The screws can loosen a little sometimes, causing play, wear at the point where the press nuts are pressed into and cause damage to these parts - which are the hardest to find parts of the Dyna Storm.
Thanks for the tip, but Im already on it. The same fasteners were used on the Astute, and I can recall many many years ago being very very frustrated when all four made their way loose and the front bulkhead of my Astute coming free on her maiden run!!!!
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1 - The only thing special about brushless is that you must not overheat the motor (never over 160*f). The only way to determine proper gearing for racing is w/ an infrared thermometer. For bashing, simply make sure it stays cool to the touch.
2 - For guaranteed safety and long life, Lipo should be charged at 1C (1 times capacity). Example: 4000mah lipo should be charged at 4000mah (or 4amps). That means a fully discharged lipo will take a little over an hour to charge. Just make darn sure your using the Lipo profile or you can/will have a chemical fire on your hands.
3 - Typical run-time depends on the milliamp rating of the battery being used. Of course a lipo battery will run much longer than a nickle battery of the same capacity since they have much lower internal resistance (less energy being wasted as heat). I'm sure w/ a 5000mah lipo you could easily get a half-hour of bashing about in a buggy like the DS.
4 - You don't have to reset the ESC for lipo and nimh. You can leave the low-voltage lipo safety cutoff on all the time. Be aware that nickle batteries suck in comparison so voltage will drop quicker (especially under load) and you may hit the cutoff much sooner. If you are having problems w/ nickle batteries cutting out, you may have to disable the Lipo cutoff. Just be sure to switch it back on when switching back to lipo. If you plan on running lipo in the car, it's best to stick w/ lipo. High power brushless runs like **** on nimh/nicad.
5 - Make sure the lipo is rated w/ enough output to support your motor. A 20C 2400mah lipo can only put out 48amps continuously without being damaged (20 times capacity). Many motors are capable pulling quite a bit more. For low turn motors, go with a higher capacity and/or C rating. A decent lipo would be a 4000mah 35C pack. This can lay down 140amps continuous current without giving up the farm. The higher C rate and mah, the more cycles you'll get out of the pack (cause it is not working as hard).
In addition it will be mandatory to run a good battery connector like Deans or Traxxars TRX plug. The crappy tamiya connectors of the old days will melt together w/ brushless/lipo current flow.
BTW: The DS is a very old car and doesn't have much room for your batteries. I would recommend a lipo that has the built in 4mm bullet tubes. Also, you probably won't be able to fit anything greater than a 4000mah pack. I just ran a Yeah Racing 3200mah 25C stick-type pack in mine last weekend. I had to dremel out the battery tub so the super fat wires and balance tap could exit straight out the front end of the battery compartment towards the servo. Lipos aren't exactly the same size as a nicad stick pack.
Bullet plugs exit the top corners easily. simply solder the 4mm bullets to the ESC wires. Don't mix up polarity...
To fit this pack, I had to dremel out a good size notch in the battery tub of the DS for these huge wires and balance plug:
Wow great tips, thanks!!! Well I have a 5000 with a 30c burst rate, BUT it does not fit so I am going to have to figure out how to fit it. Im thinking that one of my spare Super Astute or TF battery box ends will work.
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Hi everyone, I just began to build my DS. She is going to get a Novak Brushless and numerous Nimrod upgrades. My question is what do I have to know about brushless?
I have a specific LIPO charger, is it true that I can only slow charge LIPO batteries?
What is the typical run time for a 13.5 Novak brushless on 2 LIPO cells?
Can I mix and match NICAD and LIPO batteries with speed controler, or will I have to reset the controller for NICAD or LIPO batteries?
Anything else you brushless experts would like to add is welcomed, thanks!!!!
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Hello everyone, the build of the Dyna Storm begins, this car rivals the Avante for how long I have waited to get one. But unlike the Avante, this car will be used, abused, and enjoyed. The build isn't going to follow the manual step by step because I have ordered a Nimrod chassis, FR and RR suspension arms, under tray, body and rear wing. I started with the gorgeous blue shocks because I have wanted to see and touch them for sooooooo long. So with out further delay.
Before, look at the beautiful blister pack
Components of the shocks gathered.
The finished shocks in all of their Blue glory (first of the signature TRF color?)
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I have discovered a fantastic track in SoCal well its as North as you can go in Socal and still call it Socal!!! The track is called RC Revelation. Great people and great track. I picked up a Brush-less set up for my Dyna Storm (Novak Controller and motor, charger, and Lipo 2 cell for 379!!!!!).
Ive been knocking off the rust there running my REVO that is platinum speck. What a great truck, it can take the abuse and keep on going! Ive only broken the rear "shock tower" really body mount due to the inboard shocks. Once I added the center diff and sway kit under steer was a thing of the past. What a fantastic truck. Once i can go through a tank with out crashing, Ill build the 801xt and step up my game!!! But there are going to be high expectations to be matched. The Revo really is that goo!!!!
PS Stand by in the vintage section for the DS build.
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UH NO WAY!
The dampers on the Dyna Storm are called "Sleeved" dampers. They are a bladder-less design that allows the air inside to mix with the oil, hence the term aeration. This is just the common/modern style of damper now. If you drilled a hole in the cap (that's aluminum cap BTW) you would shoot all your damper fluid out on the first stroke. It's the original Hi-Cap dampers that had the hole already drilled in the upper cap. Of course these dampers had bladders that kept the air separate from the oil (and kept the oil inside as well).
Just follow the kit instructions for building and setting up the car. They are very good!
Thanks 94 you have always helped me. Be it my Avante adventures or now my DS.
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Well I just got the DS and it time to build her because she will be a racer as its the last 2wd tamiya made thats actually decent. In regards to the dampers am I supposed to drill a hole in their caps? Ive read "they" are supposed to be aeration. If so what size hole to make? And yes I will be using nimrods chasis and bulkhead. After I finish this thread, im going to order the parts and repro body.
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Yep thats the one. I will only be running the DS once it has the required nimrod parts on it. I plan on keeping the stock chassis, adding the nimrod lexan undertray, suspension arms (FR and RR) and front bulkhead. (anything else I should get?). I was never much of a racer, I just like to go and bash around for a bit. If I get good enough....
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Well guys I just found a great indoor track to run the EVO (and DS
). What are your basic recommendations for a EVO running a brushless? The track is hard clay/dirt with a few 2 feet jumps and about a 100 hundred foot back strait. I know there are tons of set ups options. But im looking for recommendations like: what springs to use (lossi or associated due to ease of availability), shock oil, etc. Thanks for any help u may offer that will get me a good base line. -
Well guys I just found a great indoor track to run the DS/DL. What are your basic recommendations for a DS running a Brushless? The track is hard clay/dirt with a few 2 feet jumps and about a 100 hundred foot back strait. I know there are tons of set ups options. But im looking for recommendations like: what springs to use (lossi or associated due to ease of availability), shock oil, etc. Thanks for any help u may offer that will get me a good base line.
Here are the associated sub - assemblies grouped together, than assembled, and than assembled onto the chassis (for now).
). What are your basic recommendations for a EVO running a brushless? The track is hard clay/dirt with a few 2 feet jumps and about a 100 hundred foot back strait. I know there are tons of set ups options. But im looking for recommendations like: what springs to use (lossi or associated due to ease of availability), shock oil, etc. Thanks for any help u may offer that will get me a good base line.
Tamiya Bruiser Question
in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Posted
$700 for a NIB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thats about how much the Mountaineer was when it came out in 1990ish. Becareful, bring a buddy to get your back. If you get that for 700 and its legit, steel of the century!!!!!!