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About MontyMole

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  1. One thing I don't like about Laptrax is that you can't do fixed time runs like we do in the postal races, you can only set an amount of laps, then run them out. Sure, you can put like 99 laps then stop running when you see the 5 minute mark, but it's a bit distracting and it's strange the devs never tought about this format, since it's the norm in rc racing.
  2. Question: where should be put the starting line?
  3. On the topic of the DF03 dampers, I've just got the reissue for the TT-02B. Looking at the instructions, I see that they use o-rings as internal spacers and the short eyelets for both front and back. Considering that my aim was to raise the ride height on top of having better shocks, wouldn't that be counterproductive for me? Or the longer shaft just does the trick alone? What are your setups?
  4. Hi everyone, for my Terra Scorcher, I've repurposed a Torque Tuned motor coming from my other TT-02B. Back when I tried the electronics, the motor gave a not very nice squealing noice, so I decided to give it a spray of WD-40 on both ends of the rotor, where presumably the bushings are. The noises went away, but not even three batteries in, they are back, and I suspect they are the reason my car stopped running all of a sudden. What is the best way to cleanup and mantain closed bell motors such as this?
  5. I have the Yeah Racing universals on my TT-02B. I guess they work, but I don't know why, they got rusty surprisingly fast for some reason: I even had to put them in a rust remover bath to unlock one of them. I went driving once under the rain, but I did clean up my car right away. They fit in if you have the Item# 54477, the differential cup joints for the TT-02. Regarding the GPM universals for the TT-02B, I they require their own joint cup, which I think have basically the same shape of plastic joint cups from the kit. Meaning they will NOT fit into the much smaller cup joints used by the YR and Tamiya's CVDs. Don't ask me why I know.
  6. Welp, my testing to see if my lap counts with the Terra Scorcher were a fluke went belly up. First try with the Plasma Edge tyres, the car stopped presumably due to the ESC going in protection mode (the motor was quite hot). Fine, second try, same tyres, but the 15t pinion from the kit. Same thing. I guess the larger wheels, while cool looking, add strain to the motor. Last one, with the kit wheels, goes well until the lower mount pops off the shock shaft of one of the front dampers. Now I get why the bright yellow color, it does make easier to find the parts when they fly off. Now I fixed It, and put a drop of thread lock just in case, but I hope it's not an issue with the thread inside the mount getting worn. I wonder if I can repurpose the CVAs from my TT-02B worst comes worst; I think with the shorter mount they are quite similar in length? Oh, well, all and all, it has been a learning experience.
  7. I think it's just because my TT-02B, right now, it's a kind of a mess setup wise: sure, it's got FRP shock mounts, a brushless motor and universals, but the shocks are cheap rubbish and their length affected the camber and toe in adjustements I did back when I had the shorter shocks. Adjustments I never bothered to fix because I don't like to fiddle with Tamiya's turnbuckles, that little 5mm nut is a pain.
  8. I've run my TT-02B, running a brushless motor and with some hop-ups, believing a more modern design would beat my results with my other car, a Terra Scorcher on a plain Torque Tuned. Well, I've been disproven: I wonder what are the precise factors (the motor might be one, maybe it's a bit too much), but seriously, it was not pleasant to drive. Maybe tomorrow I'll try with the same tyres in the same location with the other car, just to compare. Regarding tyres, by the way, they are the stock spiked you get with the TT-02B. Should I glue them? Are inserts required, or are just a nice plus given the tyre itself is quite hard already?
  9. Yeah, I've got the FRP shock towers front and back now. Definitely helps, especially with the longer shocks: The original plastic ones were starting to get bent.
  10. In my quest on making my TT02B a little bit better, I'm in a kind of a rut regarding the shocks. I've found that the CVA shocks included make the ride really low, so I've resorted into picking something longer, with a more stiffer oil. Now, what I've got now is probably what you can find by putting "TT02B shocks" on ebay: cheap aluminium shocks, which I've filled with 750cst oil. To put it shortly, they are not very good, but having longer shocks to increase the ride height (80mm and 100mm front and back respectively) definitely helps at not turning my car into a lawnmover. My question is what shocks should I pick next? Do you have any advice to share? I've eyed the Big Bore Yeah Racing shocks, still at 80 and 100mm length, anyone has had any experiencewith those?
  11. O-Ring grease, from Team Associated in this case. It's used to lubricate the o-rings, keep the dirt out and the shock oil in, and it should do the job better compared of just using the oil.
  12. Done that! I'd figured it would be a good testbed for later attempts, even if I'm running a rather plain motor. Could be done better, since I'd simply resorted on using your regular superglue in a bottle, but it definitely is firmier than the wheels of my other TT02B, which are not glued, even if the tire is quite hard. In fact I'm thinking of new tires for both cars, but I guess it's a topic for another thread.
  13. Well, sorry for the wait, but it's done! Definitely an interesting experience. I have a few musings about the build: First, of course It's that I'm pretty bad at painting bodies. My attempt at making window masks, however laudable, had left a lot to be desired, and the paint bled through the painter's tape I had used to make them. Also, the silver paint can I've used to do the grid was too old, and it sputtered only a few precious drops. I barely managed to complete it, and it left a few, barely visible blotches in the paintwork. But hey, it was free. Second, i've tried to mount the suspension shafts with the e-clips through the flipped B8. Is it me, or is the resulting toe in different between the left and right side? Finally, I couldn't really give it a proper first run due to the weather, but I did a few laps in my courtyard. It's kind of noisy, anyone had issues with that? Probably it's because I'm used to my other TT02B, which has less moving gears, but this feels like a power drill. Also, I think the diffs are "notchy", they have some rough spots; I think someone mentioned this in older discussions? Is that a problem, or will it solve itself with some more running and with the gears seating properly? Thanks to everyone.
  14. @ThunderDragonCy thanks for the suggestions, and sorry for responding so late, between the deliveries taking forever and life stuff I could only get on building this model only just now. One more question, should I try heat the head of the screws holding the gearboxes to the chassis when I put them in, or will it hold fine even without that?
  15. Hi everyone, new user here. I recently managed to get me a Terra Scorcher re-re, and I had some questions before building it (and possibly making a mess). I know about the weak A5 and B8 parts, so I wanted to address that right at the start. My intention was to use the reinforced A5 part from shapeways (which I think is from one of the users here? Correct me if I'm wrong) and steel shafts with c-clips from the tamiya 54613 hop-up kit; if I understood well, I need the 58 mm shafts for the front and the 48 mm shaft for the back. My question is, do I need spacers too? I've seen photos from some showrooms that used those. In that case, what hop up code should I look after? Still on the topic of substituting hinge pins with shafts, are there any more places where I should work of, like the upper suspension? What are the shaft dimensions required for those? For now I think I'll go with a Torque tuned motor I've salvaged from a TT-02B. In case I want to go with something more "spicy", like a brushless motor, what should I look after? In my other car I have a 13.5T brushless motor, would that be too much for such an old design to handle? Finally, should I look for the reinforced transmission shaft from shapeways too, in place for the coat-hanger included in the kit? Oh, right: to upgrade the 3 E1-washer combos they put instead of the original release's thrust washers, I should use 1150 bearings, those sized 5x11x4mm? Or is the size a little weirder than that, like 5x11x5mm? Thanks in advance.
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