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Alangt4

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About Alangt4

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  1. I’ve all 3 super stock motors… no difference that I noticed between them performance wise. The BZ is certainly a nice looking motor when keeping it all Tamiya. The brushes are different with the RZ having slightly higher rpm and a tad less torque. As I say you wouldn’t notice it. They are all noticeably better than the 17t and 19T generic eBay motors I’m my experience.
  2. Did you put the one way gear in the front gearbox? Check you have it the right way round as should give drive for forward and freewheel when no drive applied. could be as you say the ball diff not being tight enough- you may need to remove the gear box covers and take a look and see what’s amiss.
  3. Nice- re releases are there to enjoy the build!
  4. Much quieter than the older buggies at least- haven’t run db02 though. The finer pitch of the gears is noticeable. Plus if running brushless it helps. DB-02 isn’t great for parts which is a problem if you run it a lot. edit: it’s just a slight bit quieter than the top force on checking it…
  5. A Tamiya sport tuned motor is a good upgrade… gives a boost boost in performance compared to the standard motor and supported by any decent esc. not sure on the transmitter side as depends on budget and if you like stick or wheel type ones.
  6. That looks like an egress/vanquish gear diff. Certainly the inner gears are identical as is the outer cover and screws.
  7. Yes it’s a very nice build- it doesn’t have all the metal the avante does but it all fits together well and enjoyable. The only thing missing from the original to me is the ti screws- but they weren’t great to be honest. the car drives really well too- very smooth and responsive, steers great. Probably the easiest Tamiya 4WD to work on- any gears are accessed in 3-4 screws at most. Plenty of tuning options too. I have 4 top forces, and likely sold 6 manta rays or other top force variants over the years.
  8. The 5 mm shims fit in 2 places: - the alloy kingpins in the front hub carriers - between drive shaft pins and bearings on each of the 4 axles… good to change the plastic hexes to alloy clamping ones as well as the plastic ones crack eventually. The 3 mm ones fit on the suspension arm shafts and remove some of that play between the arms and the hubs and between inner arms and gearbox mountings. It can be tricky enough to put e clips on and the shims are tricky as well.the inner and outer ones need done. I think that’s them.
  9. The super stock and Lipo (if you can change to them) will make the car so much faster than a gt tuned and a Nimh!! Even before thinking about that 8 turn motor. the car is quite high as it’s an old style proper off road- so it will grip roll and mid air 1080 flips with some power put through it. You’ll need to get it lower with spacers in the shocks. Will make it look even more mean and aggressive though!!
  10. I’m running the Tamiya 10.5 brushless in it.
  11. Yeah that’s same FDR as mine and plenty fast for me.
  12. The car really doesn’t need much…it’s a great performer bar large jumps. -steel pinion - alloy motor mount are both essential - you then may change front hubs to alloy - try some of the mods to stop the rear gearbox cover lifting- a search will bring these up - personally adding shims to remove slop1of each 3mm and 5mm sets will do it - then getting the right tyres for what you are using it for and right setup, electronics etc. much of the other stuff like alloy arms are a waste of money. If you are breaking stuff… practice driving or you are pushing it past what it’s for regardless of hop ups.
  13. Nice one… obviously replace any screws that are slightly rounded as they will be hassle next time you need to remove. Would be good to just restore back as per original as much as possible to keep value in the car if you sell later. If you intend to run then it’s good to just replace any worn hardware and do what you want to run it.
  14. Changing up from gt tuned to super stock bz motor is a major speed boost. I found the gt tuned to only be a tad quicker than a silver can. See how that goes first. If you use a smaller pinion it may be ok with the 02s speedo. Mine has been fine on tarmac running. The drivetrain is really tough so I wouldn’t be too worried about it for most motors. An octowind is a step too far for these cars… the super stock or use brushless with your 02s e.g 13.5 or a Tamiya 10.5 with fan is the limit I’d reckon. are you using a lipo battery? The 02s speedo will need a lipo alarm, but you’ll get best speed out of a lipo. you also need different tyres as the stock ones and wheels get destroyed in minutes. A set of grippy tyres will help more than anything else. Not sure how you assembled the chassis but it’s pretty tough within its limits unless you keep opening up the electrics section and the screw heads wear out, or over tightening or the screws. as above though, there is a limit of the car relative to how a 1/8 car is constructed.
  15. Try a bicycle chain removal tool- some of these let you press out these kind of pins. Pretty cheap and a lot of people might have them to try if the one they have could work.
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