Alangt4

Yes there was some change to the 02S maybe 2 years back now. I don’t know why/what part changed or it it was some factory setup changes. Fine control of voltage is not possible- even after adjusting. Downside is the newer 02S escs lost the fine control of speed. I know a few others reported similar so May have more details that can clarify.

Would be good to get the TA03 or the top force evo ball diff cases if you can. They are lighter but more importantly much tougher than the grey cast housings of the top force or ta02. The dynarun super touring is a really strong motor that flies with Lipo so it will be tough on the drive splines.

Nice DynaRun motor… they are one of the best Tamiya motors I reckon. Over 40,000 rpm @ 8 v and no weird brushes!!

Wow awesome stuff!

I have one of these SPA 240WS motors. I think it was an 18 Double. Measured it yesterday as 31000 rpm @8v. That puts it rpm wise ahead of my Dynatech 01R with 19T and the 17T hop up rotor giving 32500. Not sure on the torque but seems decent. It likely has lost a little over the years so definitely a fairly hot motor for it’s time.

Another brushed motor to add to the mostly complete Tamiya collection- a trinity chameleon 2 19T. Normally run modern brushless 10.5T, or super stock BZ in my cars, but still nice to pick up the older motors.

Very nice. I have my other cars out of sight!! Only 1-2 ever visible at the same time🥸

Original top force with original hi caps, ti screws, dyna tech 01H and cpr-160. Battery is a 1400 scr. Also non period adjusters to be changed. Next to it is a 2017 re re with non vintage mods. Currently testing a load of vintage motors, a modified 11T in it and TRF acto to follow. Will see how the esc gets on.

Hey- the Ta01 touring car stabiliser works on the DF01- I have one on one of my top force cars. Hard to pick up these days though. You can copy the mounting used and get a few other stabilisers in there… can’t recall which ones sorry.

Basic effect of the rear arb- either adding it or making existing one stiffer will tend to make a car that had neutral handling more prone to oversteer. Can make the car more twitchy as a result and less consistent to drive close to its limit. Can make it more reactive to bumps and suspension less supple, with wheels not tracking the ground as well. for 4WD or fwd they can work well to counter the under steer they can have as long as you don’t have too high a rate that again starts to interfere with normal suspension action.

The car can look pretty good if you deviate from box art. The clear viewing panels are part of the problem as the lines of the car are focused around them. I painted mine in and happy with it looking less bulbous. Likewise you can paint the canopy with a different line which can look well. if you use the front universals and remove the steering limiters the turning circle is good. I wouldn’t worry about that. I didn’t have issues with mine popping dog bones. Quality of the kit is great. That Metal gear is much better than the alloy idler in the ta01/DF01. I always use shims to remove any slop, so I did use some in the build. I’d say it is robust for what it is intended for, seen the rear tower break and some ball joints but you can use the hardened type.

I’d say the tt-0x or re re boxes aren’t worth much so little point keeping them. You could cut out the main cover of ones with some feeling to and keep them in case you want to frame them. That will save space at least. Otherwise sell them off if it isn’t any hassle as some people will want them. Really you will not miss them!

Yes- the comm was pitted and covered in carbon. So explained why is seemed pretty weak initially. has taken a while to get comfortable with the comm lathe- tried a few old demon rotors first.

Part of the problem on picking up the old fast motors is they likely need the com skimmed not just new brushes. hope that magnets are ok as well. I picked up a Tamiya super modified 11T which is rated around 38,000 rpm at 7.2v but was only 27,000 rpm when I got it. Seemed pretty dead. Skimmed the comm, which took a few passes, and new brushes and it’s at 44,000 on nimh more on Lipo! The fast brushed motors also eat brushes so brushless is such a benefit for running faster motors.

Yes that’s right- top force and others will only handle smaller jumps and always a risk at that.

I don’t have any of the TRF buggies but it is quality wise much superior to the other typical Tamiya buggies. It is also pretty robust and benefits from being a newer design. Handling wise- I’m not sure between the top force evolution and the TD4. Need more time testing them back to back. Top force I know well, TD4 a little tweaking still I think will get more from it.

It is a better quality kit going by my experience of the td4. Better plastics, more precise engineering of plastics, bearings spring to mind. But yeah top force is hard to beat, it’s a great all round car. from other comments- not sure the TD2 needs hop ups? Slipper clutch maybe- not convinced it needs anything else for most people.

Haven’t noticed any difference in the plastics. I’ve had a lot of ta01, vintage and re re … I do notice using the right jis screwdrivers and not over tightening into plastics and other things I wasn’t aware destroyed my cars.

@AndyB_Evo1411 glad to see those motor wires resoldered! Much better!!

Hooked up this lathe today and gave these motors a skim. Certainly made a good difference to some of them.

I just picked up an old motor lathe so will look forward to seeing if I can use it to revive my old dyna tech, acto and dynarun super touring motor (amazing motor for a Tamiya) maybe have a few rotors and standard brushes. None for the dynatech due to their weird brush designs. They are all faster than the cheap modern brushed motors for sure but will test them at some point out of interest.

Yeah agreed- I took my old manta ray out after 30 years… new battery and tyres and soon after everything everywhere broke!!

I’m in uk so not sure where is best so am sure someone else can comment, but online options are fastrax, jazzrider, GPM and yeah racing. As well as the Tamiya one. The only thing to note on them is which way they fit in- some of them you have to look carefully to see what way they should go in others are keyed or marked like the plastic original. Steel pinion is the 06 Module type.

Yes… hard to beat the top force for ease of working on them! at least if it’s built and sorted realistically you should not need to do much.