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Dug180

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  1. Thank you for the correction, appears you are correct, I got confused when I googled G6-01 gear ratio I got 37.35:1 but that was for the G6-01TR both G6-01 and GF-01 gear ratio are in-fact the same at 18.03:1 but surely going to 4WD would have reduced the stress on the motor or have I got that wrong too? which makes sense that other people are doing fine with their motors. I've already ruined a superstock and brushless motor with this car, (now back to superstock) so I really want something more reliable. So far 4WD experiment have been really positive, handling is really good lots of drifting action on dirt less roll overs and improved acceleration and speed but that maybe a biased effect, will try switching back to 6WD while memory still fresh.
  2. I would definitely remove it before it breaks, I'm certain that will eventually happen if you push it hard, it took sometime before mine broke. Hobbywing only recommends that spec for touring or light duty off road (2WD) for low ratio crawlers etc is 21T or above.
  3. Haven't really though about that, I'd worried about fitment issues, they usually come with 5mm shaft don't they so I will need to replace pinion as well and my Tamiya Heatsink Hop-up won't fit either and that would be a waste. Looks like Hobbywing 4274 is similar pricing to the 540 sized 3652SD and that will be Sensored as well so probably be a better choice to stick with the 540 size which should resolve the issue, just need to spend the $$ for it.
  4. can you tell me which 10.5 hobbywing specifically ? after some research I learned that for Brushless you need a 4 pole motor, the Tamiya brushless that I used is a 2 pole motor and really wasn't suited for it. Specifically the 3652SD-B-3800KV Hobbywing would be the bullet proof motor of choice for the G6-01 but this thing with the ESC cost too much $$$ for what I want to spend on this crazy thing. Hobbywing recommends 21 - 25.5T for monster truck and crawlers with their 2 pole Quicrun series but looking at the 1500 ish KV rating for that it will actually be slower than the GT Tune motor I tried running the Superstock again with 1060 hobbywing and as expected the overheating problem keeps happening after about 10 mins of run time, this makes sense and I really don't believe that you can run the Superstock with 6WD 37:1 gear ratio for long period. It's just too low and too much stress for a motor that just not designed for it, I'm wondering if you're not driving it hard enough. the good news is that running 4WD the problem disappeared the car runs fine from full battery charge to finish, and this thing really fly with Superstock. I think if want to go back to 6WD I'll get a 4 pole brushless
  5. yea I was thinking about getting 15mm wheel hex extension, though about using the WT-01 arms which will fit but will look a bit silly, I have used a 1.5mm wheel spacer for now which does have a decent effect. I've just tested using the diff putty give it more a limited slip diff effect (currently it's pretty much an open diff) I was expecting an almost locked diff with the putty but it's not even close, I think i need to use like 3x 5mm putty instead of one to make it tight but still a major improvement for cornering and acceleration. It's even less likely to tip.
  6. one thing everyone should get is a 3 pairs of M chassis Ball suspension shaft 51436 he suspension ball is a really big improvement for hard surfaces, great cheap upgrade.
  7. I eventually go to this, it's been a lot of fun tickering and testing new stuff with this chassis. In theory we are reducing the gear ratio from G6-01 6WD 37.35:1 to something like GF-01 4WD 18:03:1 First I tried disconnecting the rear wheel, (power from mid and front wheel) unfortunately this is a terrible idea. The car constantly tip over and really undriveable at modest speed, don't bother trying, trust me. The drive cup holes is easily plugged with a spare step screw and bolt Second, I switch to disconnecting the Front wheel and drive only the Mid and Rear wheel and the result is really good! It has much faster acceleration but top speed I think is about the same, the car I think also drives better, it's more like driving a 2WD buggy, you can do a 180deg quick turn off throttle like you do with a 2WD buggy, oversteering is increased but will still tip on grippy surface which is something I really want to reduce. one thing I forgot to try while I was inside the gear is to tighten the diff with maybe a diff putty or the AW grease, because the diffs are currently super loose the regular grease and I think this is a big problem on grippy surface because the wheel will lift off the ground and tip the car, so I'm hoping this will help prevent rolling over.
  8. maybe I drive it too hard on grass normally, I don't know. The Tamiya brushless motor manual all said do not use with high gear ratio on big wheels RC after breaking one motor and failing esc. Now I though better to follow the G6-01 part cataloque which only recommends Torque Tuned, GT Tuned 25T or Dirt Tuned 27T brushed motors. I do use 4WS on mine, my G6-01 is the Volvo AH60 I think it carries a lot of extra weight compared to the School Bus and Kong head, I also installed foam insert in the tire which add more unsprung weight but it's so good for handling. I can either disconnect front wheel or disconnect rear wheel. The middle wheels always need to go I think maybe disconnecting the rear wheel would be best so that we have the front and mid wheel going and power transfer would be more even because both front and mid wheel are (sort of) directly connected to the pinion.
  9. also tried 17.5T TBLM-02S Tamiya Brushless with TBLE-02S and that eventually killed the motor.
  10. both were brand new, I might give it another go, I did remove the combo and being used on a buggy without issue now. I have swapped the pinion already.
  11. I tried that exact combo before and car would fizzle after 10 mins or so run time. Battery still high charge, but ESC kept saying nope, it was also slowly destroying the pinion, the grease inside turned silver.
  12. I was thinking of removing the front gearing and diff so that it only drive the 4 wheels at the rear, in theory this should make it go faster and less stress on the motor. but kinda lazy to do it, because getting into the gear box is a pain wondering if someone have tried this already and their experience with it. Otherwise I'll do it eventually and post my result. I know someone will suggest to just throwing a superstock or brushless motor, but really the Gear Ratio is too high for those motors and it always overheat and kill your ESC eventually so I really don't like it. The fastest motor that Tamiya suggest is the GT Tuned 25T motor so that's what I'm currently using but still a bit slow, I can't keep up with my kids lol.
  13. I managed to use the TA-06 stabilizer set on my XV-01T, uses front bars for front and rear. fits perfect no cutting required.
  14. for the Volvo, the dampers use 10mm spacer on the below the spring holder, this is pretty much like adding preload from the bottom I think, the GF-01 aluminum dampers setup uses 10mm spacers at the bottom as well. additionally I had to add 1 black o-ring on the front, 2 black o-ring in the middle to stop the tires from scrubbing anything at full compression you will need to limit the turn radius a lot with 4WS otherwise the car will roll at high speed, my EPA is 25% front 15% rear
  15. So I was browsing G6-01 parts catalog and I had no idea why this 54296 3x34mm Ball-Head Sus Shaft is suggested as a hop up, but I clicked and ordered 3 pairs of the cheaper non titanium version (51436) for my G6 you can use it to adjust your bottom dampers position outwards, which will stiffen it up and also reduce ride height a bit as well and this is perhaps the best bang for your buck mod I have done so far. my Volvo G6 now feels like it's on rails on ashpalt with 4WS , I am also usingTRF501X front springs (Hard front, Medium rear, Medium rear). I'm using the plastic CVA with 1 hole piston with Tamiya #900 oil, this gives similar damper feeling as using the GF-01 Aluminum dampers. I also use 2x 54667 camber set
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