Dug180
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Posts posted by Dug180
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On 2/2/2022 at 9:00 AM, Juggular said:
Hmm... they are saying "front mid-ship." The motor would go back a few inches, also...
It seems to say that you can have one more tooth for front or rear. I would have been excited if there was a center diff, but I guess that's a no, then?
The motor location would kill off the unique driving characteristics of XV01. Why, oh why?
XV02's weight distribution is like TT02B going backward... I don't think I like this.
But CC-02 Bronco looks awesome! I think it's about time I get it.
I wanted Alpine A110 with M06 chassis too.
Even though orange has been my favorite color for about 10 years now, I think this one is better in blue. I'll have to spend several months deciding which color to go with.
I think its more like TC01 without IFS and XV01 sus arms
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I made a video for all my hop-ups recommendation here
Since I purchased the 8deg C-Hub which made a very noticeable difference in cornering, my 4WS steering setup is now way more front bias 40% EPA Front and 18% Rear and I think this is definitely much better than using maximum steering angle at the rear which was around 35% EPA for me.
High steering angle at the rear is fun to make the car drive more like a Train but it rolls over a lot, I think 2WS is best for least roll overs but cornering is terrible and no fun, I'm not giving up on 4WS
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Nothing wrong with the chassis everything spins freely, full ball bearings. I did switch back to 6WD to test with Tamiya Superstock and hobbywing 1060 esc and so far so good, no overheating issue, my battery is 2S lipo 5500mah 50c
I guess what was playing in my mind is after breaking 2 motors (superstock and 17.5T brushless) I'm convinced that these motors where over stressed to handle the 6WD drive train and Tamiya don't recommend the use of these motors with "Big Tire" cars and 6WD would only make things worse, it says so in the Brushless motor manual.
If you check the recommended option in the catalog you see that they only recommend Torque Tune, GT Tune or Dirt Tune for G6-01 while GF-01 have more option UGT is the fastest option and not recommended for G6-01 although I think it's fine for it, but if you go to touring car catalog they would recommend brushless option
Some feedback after switch back to 6WD to tests should also mention that I always use 4WS which I enjoy a lot because it feels driving a train this is my steering angle, you can't go extreme with or it will roll over a lot my EPA is 20% front 35% rear
4WD - Better cornering, way less roll overs, can spins on full throttle less stable in straight line at high speed.
6WD - Acceleration is more stable at full throttle, feels better and more grounded in straight line at high speed, worse cornering, way more roll overs.
Overall top speed is the same I think
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2 hours ago, smirk-racing said:
It is fun that you're experimenting with this truck and I'm enjoying reading about your results.
However, I don't quite follow this part:
No matter what you do in terms of removing gears from the stock configuration, you are never going to change the gear ratio. Now, if you find a way to add new (non-stock) gears with a different tooth count, then you could potentially change the gear ratio... but simply removing some of the stock gears won't make any difference at all in the gear ratio.
Thank you for the correction, appears you are correct, I got confused when I googled G6-01 gear ratio I got 37.35:1 but that was for the G6-01TR both G6-01 and GF-01 gear ratio are in-fact the same at 18.03:1 but surely going to 4WD would have reduced the stress on the motor or have I got that wrong too? which makes sense that other people are doing fine with their motors. I've already ruined a superstock and brushless motor with this car, (now back to superstock) so I really want something more reliable. So far 4WD experiment have been really positive, handling is really good lots of drifting action on dirt less roll overs and improved acceleration and speed but that maybe a biased effect, will try switching back to 6WD while memory still fresh.
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4 hours ago, Big Jon said:
I'm using a Justock 10.5, Dug. It's a plain old sensored two-pole. There's no need to use a four-pole if you don't have one around.
The Spektrum 3300kv combo would be an ideal sport combo.
I would definitely remove it before it breaks, I'm certain that will eventually happen if you push it hard, it took sometime before mine broke. Hobbywing only recommends that spec for touring or light duty off road (2WD) for low ratio crawlers etc is 21T or above.
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31 minutes ago, MadInventor said:
Have you thought about going up in brushless size ? I use a 1/8 brushless motor in my TXT-1, which has an outer diameter of 42mm, compared with 1/10 brushless at 36mm. The bolt pattern is the same as a 1/10 motor, so if there is clearance they can be bolted straight in. If it will fit it will resolve all your torque / overheating / gearing issues. The one I bought was 2000Kv, and has enough grunt for me to run the TXT at full tilt (2S) on grass for 15-20 minutes without the can even getting warm.
FYI I used a hobbywing 4274 four pole combo. I did buy it several years ago now, and the prices have spiralled since then, but the larger motor will cope with the stock gear ratio of the model a lot better.
Haven't really though about that, I'd worried about fitment issues, they usually come with 5mm shaft don't they so I will need to replace pinion as well and my Tamiya Heatsink Hop-up won't fit either and that would be a waste. Looks like Hobbywing 4274 is similar pricing to the 540 sized 3652SD and that will be Sensored as well so probably be a better choice to stick with the 540 size which should resolve the issue, just need to spend the $$ for it.
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On 9/5/2021 at 1:47 PM, Big Jon said:
I use a 10.5 Hobbywing and an old Speed Passion Revington in mine on 2S. It's just right for this goofy thing, and it even does tiny wheelies.
can you tell me which 10.5 hobbywing specifically ? after some research I learned that for Brushless you need a 4 pole motor, the Tamiya brushless that I used is a 2 pole motor and really wasn't suited for it. Specifically the 3652SD-B-3800KV Hobbywing would be the bullet proof motor of choice for the G6-01 but this thing with the ESC cost too much $$$ for what I want to spend on this crazy thing.
Hobbywing recommends 21 - 25.5T for monster truck and crawlers with their 2 pole Quicrun series but looking at the 1500 ish KV rating for that it will actually be slower than the GT Tune motor
On 9/4/2021 at 4:44 PM, taffer said:I have a superstock bz with over 100 hours so far in my g601, esc is fine! (It's a hobbywing 1060 copy)
I tried running the Superstock again with 1060 hobbywing and as expected the overheating problem keeps happening after about 10 mins of run time, this makes sense and I really don't believe that you can run the Superstock with 6WD 37:1 gear ratio for long period. It's just too low and too much stress for a motor that just not designed for it, I'm wondering if you're not driving it hard enough.
the good news is that running 4WD the problem disappeared the car runs fine from full battery charge to finish, and this thing really fly with Superstock. I think if want to go back to 6WD I'll get a 4 pole brushless
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17 minutes ago, Morinstal said:
You coud use longer arms, or wheel hex extension, to reduce flipping over.
Or maybe not using mid wheel, something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_qb67KFQrY, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28Drbc0v3Ps
yea I was thinking about getting 15mm wheel hex extension, though about using the WT-01 arms which will fit but will look a bit silly, I have used a 1.5mm wheel spacer for now which does have a decent effect.
I've just tested using the diff putty give it more a limited slip diff effect (currently it's pretty much an open diff) I was expecting an almost locked diff with the putty but it's not even close, I think i need to use like 3x 5mm putty instead of one to make it tight but still a major improvement for cornering and acceleration. It's even less likely to tip.
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one thing everyone should get is a 3 pairs of M chassis Ball suspension shaft 51436 he suspension ball is a really big improvement for hard surfaces, great cheap upgrade.
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I eventually go to this, it's been a lot of fun tickering and testing new stuff with this chassis.
In theory we are reducing the gear ratio from G6-01 6WD 37.35:1 to something like GF-01 4WD 18:03:1
First I tried disconnecting the rear wheel, (power from mid and front wheel) unfortunately this is a terrible idea. The car constantly tip over and really undriveable at modest speed, don't bother trying, trust me.
The drive cup holes is easily plugged with a spare step screw and bolt
Second, I switch to disconnecting the Front wheel and drive only the Mid and Rear wheel and the result is really good!
It has much faster acceleration but top speed I think is about the same, the car I think also drives better, it's more like driving a 2WD buggy, you can do a 180deg quick turn off throttle like you do with a 2WD buggy, oversteering is increased but will still tip on grippy surface which is something I really want to reduce.
one thing I forgot to try while I was inside the gear is to tighten the diff with maybe a diff putty or the AW grease, because the diffs are currently super loose the regular grease and I think this is a big problem on grippy surface because the wheel will lift off the ground and tip the car, so I'm hoping this will help prevent rolling over.
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maybe I drive it too hard on grass normally, I don't know. The Tamiya brushless motor manual all said do not use with high gear ratio on big wheels RC after breaking one motor and failing esc. Now I though better to follow the G6-01 part cataloque which only recommends Torque Tuned, GT Tuned 25T or Dirt Tuned 27T brushed motors.
I do use 4WS on mine, my G6-01 is the Volvo AH60 I think it carries a lot of extra weight compared to the School Bus and Kong head, I also installed foam insert in the tire which add more unsprung weight but it's so good for handling.
I can either disconnect front wheel or disconnect rear wheel. The middle wheels always need to go
I think maybe disconnecting the rear wheel would be best so that we have the front and mid wheel going and power transfer would be more even because both front and mid wheel are (sort of) directly connected to the pinion.
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also tried 17.5T TBLM-02S Tamiya Brushless with TBLE-02S and that eventually killed the motor.
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8 hours ago, taffer said:
I run steel pinions and 2s lipo, no issues
One of your hardware pieces must be faulty?
both were brand new, I might give it another go, I did remove the combo and being used on a buggy without issue now. I have swapped the pinion already.
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I tried that exact combo before and car would fizzle after 10 mins or so run time. Battery still high charge, but ESC kept saying nope, it was also slowly destroying the pinion, the grease inside turned silver.
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I was thinking of removing the front gearing and diff so that it only drive the 4 wheels at the rear, in theory this should make it go faster and less stress on the motor.
but kinda lazy to do it, because getting into the gear box is a pain
wondering if someone have tried this already and their experience with it. Otherwise I'll do it eventually and post my result.
I know someone will suggest to just throwing a superstock or brushless motor, but really the Gear Ratio is too high for those motors and it always overheat and kill your ESC eventually so I really don't like it.
The fastest motor that Tamiya suggest is the GT Tuned 25T motor so that's what I'm currently using but still a bit slow, I can't keep up with my kids lol.
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I managed to use the TA-06 stabilizer set on my XV-01T, uses front bars for front and rear. fits perfect no cutting required.
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1 hour ago, isomer1 said:
@Dug180 My wheels scrubbed the dampers something awful when I tried that, are you limiting the turn radius? Maybe I just did something weird.
for the Volvo, the dampers use 10mm spacer on the below the spring holder, this is pretty much like adding preload from the bottom I think, the GF-01 aluminum dampers setup uses 10mm spacers at the bottom as well.
additionally I had to add 1 black o-ring on the front, 2 black o-ring in the middle to stop the tires from scrubbing anything at full compression
you will need to limit the turn radius a lot with 4WS otherwise the car will roll at high speed, my EPA is 25% front 15% rear-
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So I was browsing G6-01 parts catalog and I had no idea why this 54296 3x34mm Ball-Head Sus Shaft is suggested as a hop up, but I clicked and ordered 3 pairs of the cheaper non titanium version (51436) for my G6
you can use it to adjust your bottom dampers position outwards, which will stiffen it up and also reduce ride height a bit as well and this is perhaps the best bang for your buck mod I have done so far.
my Volvo G6 now feels like it's on rails on ashpalt with 4WS , I am also usingTRF501X front springs (Hard front, Medium rear, Medium rear). I'm using the plastic CVA with 1 hole piston with Tamiya #900 oil, this gives similar damper feeling as using the GF-01 Aluminum dampers. I also use 2x 54667 camber set
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improve your suspension. get trf501x front springs use hard or medium. the stock springs are way too hard I think only good for friction dampers, i know that the gf01 aluminium damper set told you to use the stock spring but its just bad.
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9 hours ago, Dug180 said:
which one is less prone to roll? 2WS vs 4WS given the turning radius is the same?
I mean instead of turning off 4WS on high grip surface, you reduce EPA for the front wheel and keep rear EPA at maximum, so that your 4WS turning radius is the same as 2WS
ok I had time to answer my own question, with 4WS I had to reduce the EPA in the Front wheel A LOT (by 60%) to get the same turning radius as 2WS
However at higher speed 2WS will get really bad understeering which makes it less prone to roll,
At higher speed 4WS turning radius remains tighter than 2WS because there's no understeer, but you have reduced the EPA on the front the inside wheel will lift a lot slower at full lock and more predictable, you can have all 3 of the inside lift and not roll.
it's really fun experimenting and tuning but I think I will find a sweet spot for 4WS even for tarmac, 2WS with G6-01 is just not fun and wrong IMO.
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which one is less prone to roll? 2WS vs 4WS given the turning radius is the same?
I mean instead of turning off 4WS on high grip surface, you reduce EPA for the front wheel and keep rear EPA at maximum, so that your 4WS turning radius is the same as 2WS
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On 2/28/2021 at 8:49 PM, taffer said:
If you ever sell it, box art seems to hold its price better....
Box art is best, but I do custom now and again, if I have multiple models or lacking a 'colour' in the collection
this is the dilemma, I'm not sure whether if I want to sell it in the future or not. Box art is generally a safe way to go,
Eagle TT02 GRT AWD for Touring?
in General discussions
Posted
sorry to correct old thread.
the chassis would have been fine but you would need to do a few things to change the DNA back to grip.
1. You need to change the rear diff gear to match front gear which is the 39/15 I think to convert it back to 50/50 , this is easy to do with stock TT02 diff. CS gearing doesn't work with grip, likely damage the gears.
2. Would also recommend changing the steering back to original TT02 style steering. I would recommend switch to TT02 Type S alloy steering Hop Up, this will be way better for grip.
3. Change the front one way back to TT02 diff if you want more stability when braking.
that's it!