Willy iine

For me, modified the barrel nut, spacers, and wide hex hub to make my wide offset spacer for the VW Bus. Turned out as planned, drives well as expected with the much wider stance. Looks appropriate too. Will paint the body later in the week. Please check out my Stories on Instagram for pictures if interested. #pretend_RC_shop.

Yeah, I know it's after the fact and best to make the best out of a bad situation, but my expectation would be that Kyosho improves their QC at their outsourced Taiwanese partner. Perhaps they did, since I've not seen this issue recently.. I considered myself just lucky that I bought 2 early kits (with the special poster and extra body decals for Turbo MID included) without any problems and additional 2 afterwards and no issue with those as well. I hope no issue with the WC Spec MID... One of these days I'm going to visit Kogawa-san and have these posters autographed. He's over in Honolulu today running the marathon as I type. He's incredibly in shape!

For me, took my 1:1 WRX STI out for a pleasant drive for a change of pace and enjoyed my time outdoors. I also got my GoPro running with my iPad (app) and took a quick test video to explore its features. I need to get familiar with it more, but the touch screen and having LCD on both sides of the unit is a huge plus. I also got my barrel nuts so will see if I can make offset spacers for my M06L VW Bus. My goal is to push out each corner by 10mm so that the wheels are not so sunken into the wells (but not super flush as it's not going to be any performance car.. more a camper for my Beetle race cars. ). Besides that, I'm going to wipe my old iPhone12 mini and give it to my kid who is overdue for a newer phone.

I am also disappointed with the ever growing crybaby pansies working in positions they are not qualified for. USA took D&I way too far.. it's comical. Even today, Amazon delivery was an hour late from their promised 4 hr delivery window (which I paid extra for) and the content was completely damaged. I am assuming by wimps who can't handle life and took it out on customer's items. Amazon is going to send me replacement without returning the damaged ones which took me 15min+ to chat with customer service. And they are refunding me the extra money I paid for early delivery. You know all this nonsense only pushes me harder to get better at what I do to showcase what integrity and discipline is.. and get more toys and happiness at the end. It's my way to double birdie losers.

For me, got my iPhone15Pro (typing from it now) and Hero11 today. My harvest photo in my Story on Instagram if interested.

@GToddC5 Dang you're 1:10 looks real and your real one looks real real! I too would've thought the first picture was of a 1:1 if you weren't pulling the beer cans.

Yeah, if I already had a clean original I would probably not care to pay $1k for a rere either.. but then again, I probably would for driving and not caring about damaging an original.

Well you can use my 'eyeballed with hope' technologies any time!

My thought is that the folks that want the rere car (never mind the wannabe just loud folks) would willingly pay a premium to get the gold pan rere. I mean Tamiya can get away selling TRF420X at near $1K.. AE can sell at the same price and sell more volume, I think.

+1 indeed. Looks great @IXLR8!

Yeah, it's not your fault. I mean releasing cars like the Squash Van would do that.. Tamiya is pushing the Japanese cuteness = coolness culture a bit.. Most Americans definitely do not understand that in general unless it was a car for kids. Funny you mentioned this because I was thinking about getting another Egress for outdoor driving and would run the factory livery for identification just in case some passerby recognizes the car. But then I saw the "Way Out Running" and "Impressive Numbers" (TF-EVO) slogan on my cars and thought what my neighbors would think seeing that up close and reading it out loud.. pretty silly looking slogans if you asked me. You don't see that stuff on Kyosho cars.. well at least I haven't. The only reason I have respect driving my RC cars outside is because folks know I also play with 1:1 cars.. so it only makes sense that Calvin is playing with his little RC cars outside his house.. and the RC cars he drives (Kyosho) is actually quite well engineered and not some kid's toy.

Sorry for double post.. .. why not then..

It can be with the right tires. 👍

Yeah, I'm in it for the long haul (like the day I die) so I usually have sufficient spares.. I will probably get arms and stuff too separately to keep my parts bin well stocked so that even if AE goes under, the car would last longer than me.

That makes sense. I've not built the BBX so I do not know, but in general I tend to use Tamiya's masking tape (10mm) as an alignment grid to decal odd angles just to give reference where I am positioning. Even so I sometimes end up scratching my head, so I am very careful not to commit until I am certain... or else, new decal sheet or new body set.. (like my JJ WC body).

Looks great @AJB123!!

I don't think it's garbage, but where's AE's head at? early 2000's with the IMacs? I agree, they just need to rere the original gold pan version. I'll order 2 units for sure, maybe 3.

@Re-Bugged Your car looks absolutely top notch gorgeous! Congrats on the clean finish. Excellent work as always! For me, my 3rd attempt at the Lego locomotive camera car failed unfortunately yesterday. I was a bit disappointed. The aluminum rails turned out great, the Lego locomotive with a new custom low CG design glides down my home-made rails smoothly and flawlessly.. however the gating item is the iPhone's inability to stabilize the image and focus. I can make the rails even smoother by sanding the tops of the rails as there is some texture, but that is not the problem. It's the camera. I am out of ideas so decided to get a new camera... not the mirrorless R50, but a GoPro Hero11 as I need it to be compact and light enough the locomotive can push/pull it.. from past experience with GoPro's on my 1:1 cars, I know it can stabilize and focus well, so will go pick my order up this morning and try another attempt this afternoon. I hear there's an app to sync the video to my camera roll on my iPhone so that is a big plus. Wish me hope..

I no longer enjoy building diffs and dampers for sure. This is why I am okay with RTR these days as I can bypass those tedious part building and just concentrate on the final touches to make the car mine. This is one of the benefits of the Kyosho Scorpion/Beetle builds.. diff and dampers come pre-assembled! And unlike Tamiya's pre-assembled gearbox, the kit comes with bearing so one doesn't have to dis-assemble anything like the gear box to swap those plastic bushing with bearings.. a completely useless courtesy if anyone asked me. I know their intentions are good.. but this is near the end of 2023. Bearings are cheap.

MID's rock. I need to test paint the acua green/pepper mint colors I bought for that WC Spec MID..

@donfilippo If that was my car, I would trim the excess off while it's on the body. I mean you don't need to do this, but the TVA and RUSH decals are easy to trim right around the decal. I would just trim around the Joker decal without getting into too much detail. If I saw that 3 decal set on my decal sheet, I would trim each decal off individually and place them on one at a time. To me, those guidelines are just there to tell me which decals are a 'set'. Unless they are very close in proximity or tiny, I just trim each decal individually. But then if it's going on a car that will be driven outside in the dirt and mud, then I can understand not caring too much about this stuff and concentrate on just having fun driving it. It is an RC car after all.

I use micro-squeegees. I usually use the orange ones in the set, unless over super thin polycarbonate, use blue. The black is too stiff. It's actually an automotive product (1:1 car vinyl tool) but works well. https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Wrapping-Flexible-Different-Installing/dp/B078752WMD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=SZR0FLS4IHVD&keywords=micro+squeegee&qid=1702084651&sprefix=micro+squeegee%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I use Johnson and Johnson's baby shampoo..it's the same stuff I use on my 1:1 car vinyl and clear-bra installs. I usually use a pretty loose mix at ~1ml for 750ml of distilled water, but change the amount of lubricity as I see fit using additional shampoo or spray distilled water as I am applying the decals to lessen the slickness. For RC decals I don't usually need the solution to be super slippery as I am not sliding the decal around before squeegee like I do on my clearbra or vinyl install on my 1:1 cars. I just need enough lubricity where I can remove the decal without stretching (or catching as I peel up because that will leave stretch or line marks on the decals). So I usually spray the body with distilled water, squeegee the surface to rid any contaminants (lint), then spray the slip solution onto the body, then spray distilled water on the adhesive side of the decal and position the decal onto the body.. my fingers are also completely wet at this point to rid any chance of leaving finger prints on the decal adhesive side. Once I'm ready to commit, I spray the decorative side of the decal with distilled water to make sure my squeegee glides smoothly. Pretty basic stuff.

I don't have a link, but it looks like a larger flat head screw driver tip. And as always, I don't use any specialty tools for RC.. just off the shelf stuff.. usually the basic ones too unless it's a screw driver or something that overlaps with my 1:1 car hobby.. then those tools are usually higher end stuff.

I don't have the answer to your questions, but your car is probably faster than most off-roaders in the 80's. I remember my LHS would say silly things like the Grasshopper would do 25mph with the 380. yeah right.. maybe while free falling.