davidsen

Then there is a bag of spare parts and a 6T brushless motor from Carson I need to check. Particularly interesting are the aluminum parts, which could also have come from Carson. I'm not a fan of aluminum wishbones, so I probably won't install them. Seems a bit much to me. We'll see if I install that or look for something else. The tires and rims are being put aside for a runner project, dish rims need to go on here.

Of course there is also a body and that is where I will start. The paint has to come off. Even if I have not had good experience with stripping metallic paints, it is worth a try. TBG now has a body, so plan b is in place. So that the car matches my daughter's unicorns, I have already got decals in the correct color. The wing is already here and the aftermarket dampers are getting a replacement from Tamiya.

My little daughter loves unicorns. She likes the ones with lots of pink the best. I like unicorns too and have been looking for my unicorn, my holy Tamyia grail, for a long time. The last non-TRF 4WD buggy chassis that was missing from my collection. I have at least one model of each of the others... But this one was somehow difficult to find. It could have been so easy... About four years ago I came across a chassis like this for less than €100 (new, never driven)... I decided against it at the time because I couldn't find a body and spares for it... It was a decision between this one or two others... Budget was very tight at the time and I did not know I would desperately want one two years later. Anyway, I've finally got my DB02/Leonis chassis and have already ordered a few parts to really pimp it up... I've started with the essential things, but I'm sure I'll order more. I'm not sure yet whether I'll even start dismantling and rebuilding it before I've got everything. Now I'm not going to run out of steam and I can take this project at my leisure. The best Plaza Japan rubber I've ever got... My boy will be very excited to get it.

Thanks! I know about the aluminium parts but as I wanted some CAD fun I decided to go this way... and it's cheaper (as long no one calculates my hours spend on the computer). Used to be my job ten years ago and it's good to have some practice.

Time for some pics

Your'e right, tried to have the plugs on this position first, when I keep the plugs inside the chassis there more than enough room. Need to solder the motor wires, makes life easier when everything is properly in place. The unique mechanism of the toe in adjustment kept me from simply replacing with Blitzer uprights. Still waiting for the professionally printed parts but honestly for a shelf queen the DIY parts would have been okay too.

Many thanks! I also have the original body (from the current Rere) I am not surprised if that's just how it is. There is also no proper way to run the motor wires to the motor without cutting the body on this side and there are no places where you can attach cable ties to fix the wires. Cable management has never been one of Tamiya's strengths. Might be a traditional Tamiya thing. Even with some modern chassis it seems as if the designers only realized at the end that a ESC and receiver had to be added.

Need to order a proper switch for the vintage MSC and solder the motor wires. All other stuff is done. What makes me wonder : the MCP circuit boards collodes with the body so I cannot fix it with the clips. Maybe this isn't the original MSC that came with the model or they have changed the body? Any other Idea what I do wrong?

The problem is that I've sold almost my entire stock of vintage transmitters and receivers because I usually always install ESCs and really don't enjoy the old MSC and 27Mhz technology. Ever since an MSC broke in a model boat in the middle of the lake (the resistor desoldered itself) and I had to go on a pretty cold swim in October, I've been avoiding these MSc things... It's been a long time and I'm going to install one here after I've found the right spare parts. Also finished the undertray. Painted the yellow letters with some leftover Camel yellow paint but backed with silver and black it turned more orange... Next time I know better.

Still need to decide on which electronics I want to go for... I have the old mechanic stuff (but a broken resistor) or Robbe Futaba MC112B. 🤔

Body came out pretty good. Like the silver + black backed PS2.

Sorry, I used PS2 red after all, I still had three cans and it said so in the instructions. Then another layer of silver, followed by black. I'll tint the windows tomorrow. T Then I ordered the C3 and C2 parts today. Will replace them on both sides with the 3D printed version so I have a good original version of each of them to sell. Also ordered some more C3 parts as it was almost the same price as they had graduated prices. So if you want one let me know. Tomorrows plan is doing the undertray and some decals... I'll try something "Awesome!" with the undertray ✌️hope it works. One day I will get myself a plotter to cut these masks much easier and more precise.

One step more done... Starts to look like a nice buggy. Is it intended that the body has to be bent so much in order to be mounted on the chassis? Tomorrow I will do the wing.

I had pre-ordered the Super Astute and it actually arrived on December 23rd for the Christmas holidays. At the same time, I found an Astute chassis on FB Marketplace, which I bought for 35€ + shipping (very fast shipping!) from Lithuania. Something prompted me to do the Astute resto experience first, so I disassembled and cleaned everything over the holidays. Many parts were already quite corroded but the gearbox and essential elements were all in good shape. Unfortunately, one of the rear axle carriers and one of the front axle carriers was broken. I then saw that the parts from Super Astute don't fit and that there are very nice aluminum parts from RC Mart. But since I still need body, spoiler, decals, new tires and undertray, so I decided to rebuild the broken parts and have them 3D printed what is for sure cheaper and sufficient for a most time shelf queen. For testing I made the parts with my small Prusa printer, but I will have them professionally made from PA12. I first designed the parts in the original shape, but later derived a reinforced version for the front and rear. I will order this reinforced version. For the engine I will install a Technigold which I got with a wrong way sticked on aftermarket label, but then you can at least read it without turning the car upside down. Had to cannibalize my Super Astute kit for the grey shock seals. Need to order a set of two to be able to assemble my Super Astute (what I plan to do during summer holidays on the campside). It's always amazing how it can be that shocks that are over 30 years old are still tight and working. Nevertheless, I gave them an oil change and of course replaced the Orings at the same time.