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About Nefarious

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  • Birthday 02/22/1972

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    RC cars and jets, DeeJay, Audiophile, Electronics, R.g.b., PC Guru, Art, PLEX, Boxart reproductive research inst. 😂!

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  1. Mine does have the brake light leads and I tested the BEC voltage via the receiver cable and found the voltage is right on the money at 5.7 volts.
  2. Im jealous, i burned mine to a crispy crisp! I had damaged my Kyosho rheostat speed controller and had moved my Novak T4 to an RC-10 and my T1 to a Blackfoot. But i REALLY wanted to drive my Optima! So whats a fella to do? Well of course i soldered a battery connector DIRECTLY to the motor! I wasn't a complete idiot (just 99% so) so I soldered a simple switch to the positive lead! 🤣...Anyway, off I went to the church field in my backyard and BASHED, oh the speed, oh the DIRECT current draw!!!! But then it happened! I drove under a long time parked tractor trailer straight into the grass under it that was NEVER cut and the car just stopped entangled in the long grass stems, i ran, then saw smoke, i ran faster, then saw 🔥 fire! I ran as fast as i ever had in my life!!! The grass was dead on top and a large fire quickly engulfed the entire underside of the trailer!!!!!!! I stood staring in horror! Well for all my bad luck that day i did get lucky that only the dry tips caught and then burned out in a massive fireball! But my motor was toast! Melted and unrecognizable. The pastor came outside and was so nice, he knew me and felt bad. He actually handed me a $50 bill and said "get a new motor, I've been trying to get someone to cut that grass for years, it's a fire hazard after all !". What a crazy day! I put a check in the mail that night for a Trinity 10t Double wind called "The Big Daddy" with 49,500 RPM. I still have the Trinity but it wasn't anything like that 240ws (imo anyway)!!! I'd trade all my Trinity brushed motors for one 240ws, for nostalgia as it was my first modified in my first hobby grade car.
  3. Great build! When I was reading about the trouble you had with your very smart "front upright mod" i was reminded of a 'TT-02 Rally build video' I saw. The builder used part A10 from the upper A-arm ball joint as a replacement for the lower ball joint bushing we all hate in Rally builds...A6! He starts with another idea you had, on the front hub he filled down the lower upright post that goes through the lower A-arm till it was just "proud" of the lower ball joint, not flush with the ball joint, so that when you put it together it won't lock up. Then, to make sure that the 10mil screw that goes into the lower upright post will fit, he uses a 2.5mil drill bit to drill through the lower upright post as it is a "blind hole" that won't allow a 10mm screw to go all the way into your recently filled down post. Next he assembled the upright but on the lower ball joint instead of using the "ground clearance ruining" bushing part "A6" he uses the upper balljoint bushing part "A10" (in the video, at this step, he mistakenly calls this part A11). He used a 10mm stainless, machine-thread, cap screw during assembly. Now for the top upright post, after using "A10" to replace "A6", he simply substitutes a couple stainless steel washers in place of "A10". To add my own mod here: a little protection too this area can be added by using a stainless steel washer where the lower shock ball joint connects to the Lower Front A-arm, wether it be in front of the lower shock ball joint when using the included "MB4 step screws" or a "shock ball end", or behind the lower shock ball joint if using a "pivot ball screw". I have found using a washer here protects the lower A-arm, the lower upright balljoint and even my front shock's lower ball joints from everything, even street bashing! After throwing sparks and wearing down I just add a new washer. I also add washers, using countersunk screws for a perfectly flush fit, between the two MA3 screws used with the front and rear lower bumper mounts. That keeps the lower chassis almost scratch free and throws MASSIVE SPARKS!!! 😂
  4. I had the Kyosho Option House SPA 240ws. This was the hottest of the Kyosho 240 motors. It had "Wet Magnets" meaning a magnet formed of Samarium Cobalt (outlawed at a time as it was mined in Africa, much in the same way as blood diamonds were/are) that was crushed into a powder, made into a slurry with adhesive, then the particles are allowed to "align" north to south. Then it is formed using molds and allowed to harden into a magnet that is stronger than can be found in nature because of the magnetic field being more accurate. The motor was insane as are any of the other SPA motors. It used up a 1400mAh Sanyo nicad 8.4v extended pack in just under 4 minutes and i only remember placing under any of the top 3 positions once using my Optima at my local track. The numbers stand for the time the motor allowed with a standard bat pack, like @Wireless stated. And the letters stood for Torque and Speed. In the case of the 240ws it stands for "Wet Magnet & Speed".
  5. @markbt73, i remember seeing the post this winter but didn't remember where i saw it! Ace Hardware is only 2 miles away & has the countersunk m.2×25mm in stainless steel. I will be buying tomorrow and doing the mod this weekend. Thank you for replying & reminding!!! ...& thank you @Frog Jumper for the link!
  6. So my Rooster Reversible has wires exiting from the side, it has the translucent wires, not the opaque wires, it has the extra fets with the heatsink as in the picture at the top, and it says Super Rooster on the circuit board. Finally it has the correct count for fets the Super Rooster states it should have. It was one of the last Roosters made before Novak quit the Rooster Reversible game. I wanna say it is a Super Rooster but it does not say "Super" on the case. There are no model numbers anywhere on it (1850 or 1860). The rom inside has a sticker: "R/RR Rev 7a 1/04" PCB has number: "607R-7A". Anyone know if it is super or not super? The last thing i can try is testing the BEC voltage, the rooster and super rooster do not have the same voltage output. Super Rooster has 6v, Rooster has 5.7v.
  7. I rebuilt my original Blackfoot and gave it to a good friend for Christmas 2021, after 4 NiMh battery runs he had the slipping issue described. It would seem fine held up in the air but as soon as we placed it on the ground it barely moved. I tried your fix. I did both things you described. I slightly bent in the plates and also added some spare Traxxas teflon shims and now we have 0 issues! Thank you so much for taking the time to post this fix Backlash!
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