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Nefarious

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Everything posted by Nefarious

  1. Rather a rare moment at Hobbyking...

    All the Handwound , Neodymium , Purple Turnigy XK motors are IN STOCK from the tiny 1222 - 11000kv to the 4074 - 2000kv. All are in stock right now in the U.S. warehouse! These motors are very inexpensive for what you get.

    Check it out:

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=turnigy xk

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    75368_2__high_1.jpg

  2. Looks good! I love Alex's design and so does everyone I showed it to! I built five TT-02 cars and just finished my first TT-02B. I had a very difficult time deciding if i should try to build it like Alex's or just build a buggy but decided why not just build BOTH. I think it's terrific Alex shared the shock mounts with you. Im jelous to be honest. I love the color details, it just looks fantastic!
  3. I was looking at the SCX10 Belt system on amazon and I believe the pinion could be swapped for other size pinions using the scx10 kit. My buddy has the SCX10 kit so i can check pitch, i will also be checking my RC10 kit but I am almost positive it has a finer pitch than this tt02 kit.
  4. 100% agreed! Just because its there gotta see whats up with it! Lol
  5. CRAP! I am very sorry! I am a certified webmaster and ancient A+ guru, appeared in magazines having built show machines for Alienware, and installed intranets in Dubai but I canNOT land a post in a proper forum topic to save my life! Im not being sarcastic, I am sorry!
  6. Omg, my thoughts EXACTLY!!!! LIMIT! Motor mounts exactly the same. I have a couple HyperDrive belt kits for my RC-10 cars, makes for a smoother drive system BUT those kits came with other pinion and spur options. It looks like the FDR of this kit would limit one to a pretty high turn motor and therefore maybe meant for 17.5t or 21.5t racing but would not be legal for use anyway. It was $8 shipped so i had to get one, see what its all about at least. No manual, but its a straight forward install. Here is the link for the one i got. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806092928016.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.1000014.1.67d36b9aPvTqCG&gps-id=platformRecommendH5&scm=1007.40000.326746.0&scm_id=1007.40000.326746.0&scm-url=1007.40000.326746.0&pvid=b9c02fb9-bc66-4844-ab41-7b4b98915a16&_t=gps-id:platformRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.40000.326746.0,pvid:b9c02fb9-bc66-4844-ab41-7b4b98915a16,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238109%23294&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!4.74!1.73!!!33.60!!%402101c59517037849483354449e13fa!12000036586279771!rec!US!!AB
  7. I saw this TT-02 Belt Drive kit on AliEpress. It is inexpensive, interesting or as Spock would call it "fascinating"! Soooooo, i ordered one! I have built five tt-02 cars using tips I have found on this forum which from my first build made them all better than they would have been from just using the manual. I have come up with a few things myself which I would like to share when time allows (like the motor air scoop accepts a 30mm fan and does very well to cool your motor when a fan is used ! Why Tamiya doesn't mention this is beyond me) ...more to come; but back to this belt thangy! It looks to be of fairly good quality and since I am currently building a rally tt-02 and my first TT-02B i will try it in one or the other and report back.
  8. First , i know this is an old post but Google is DATE BLIND! 🤣 (no i don't mean Google has beer goggles! i mean the day, month, & year!) Second THANK YOU for all your work and providing so much information!!!! I would like to try this. I have both versions of the JR PROPO BEAT2 Alpina Radios. The V2C-2SH and the V2C-2SHM. I definitely have three recievers, maybe 4. I have the two that came with each Tx and a spare i picked up from a friend, all have their proper crystals. I had only two of the servos that came with the kits but one has grown legs or committed suicide by jumping off a table sometime somewhere into infiniti and beyond, because I'm having trouble finding it and I know it wasn't stolen. I hope to find it soon. Anyway, if anyone thinks this would be a bad idea by way of modification of these kinda nice and rare radios please tell me I'm being foolish. I can take it! 😉
  9. I got stickers from https://www.rcdecals.co.uk/1-10-gt-liveries Looks to be the same seller. And the quality was just fantastic. Shipped very fast to the states. I wasnt happy with protoforms Ford Gt sticker selection and so wanted to find better/more! I also purchased the Michelin Tire stickers , wanted them to be accurate with the blue , white AND YELLOW! Very happy with my order!
  10. Aw man, the Kyosho Lost Surfer was calling my name! Oh well, ty for this post! I guess he is still....lost!
  11. A couple other builds. I couldn't upload all of them on the same reply post. First one is "Version 4 Cuatro Blanco" Second one is named "3rd da Turd" and is my third TT-02 build. Was supposed to be a scrap heap junker with little hope of being anything worth keeping! Has the smallest esc, a Trackstar Turbo 80a AND the slowest motor, a Trackstar 13.5t sensored. And the cheapest servo a JX low profile 4409mg! But somehow this car has stolen my heart as it's been a thrill to drive! It has a perfect balance of speed and power , it drifts well enough, i can even slap on some Tamiya rally tires and it will handle a little offroad action! Maybe its because its my only TT-02 with actual Sway Bars installed, all will have them soon enougb, but Turd got them first because Turd is the test dummy for all new parts! it was hit by a novice Dragster driver which cracked the chassis but after a little epoxy and black paint you wouldn't know it was ever hit! (The guy's drag slash had a cracked bulkhead, chassis, left front A-arm, left and right upper Turnbuckles, and his ESC melted when two wires were sliced by something and shorted! So well ya, the TT-02 is a pretty tough lil rc car! 🤣
  12. These are some of my TT-02 cars. The one with the 3rd one with the grey Tamiya adjustable upper arms is a nearly finished new build, unnamed as of yet. It has a Yeah Racing RWD Drift Steering upgrade but I made it work while keeping the car 4wd. Took some trail and error and a modification to the inner upper arm support , but it turned out good I think. It has 4850kv purple Turnigy XK motor and 120a Turbo Boosted esc with independent gyro. 2nd one was my first TT-02 and was a present from my wife (ya, she's a keeper for sure! 😉 ). I nic named it "Version 1 The Red One". Has 160A Pro Turbo Boosted esc with 8.5t Pro modified motor. Brushless Servo. Independent Gyro. Its a show pony, shelf queen. 1st one is "Version 2 Blu" with 6.5t motor and 120a Turbo Boosted esc. Gryo integrated in receiver. It was my speed run car until i started another build using a TA04 with a sensored 3650 Turnigy XK 10500kv beast of a motor! It will be powered by a OMG 160 Sensored Turbo esc. Should break 100mph easily.
  13. I saw the video and i think that was a great pass. You made good speed! The car looks good. I have some "rock sheild" drafts I could send you that will prevent rocks from jamming your steering up! I use anything from spent gift cards, expired credit cards, left over Lexan, or just some hobbystore plastic and cut these out to keep rocks from getting a chance to embed themselves. I will tey to figure out a way to post it while keeping the size correct. Also, you write really well! I was really into your speed run practice reply, i was on edge of my seat waiting to hear result!
  14. Looks so deep, amazing job! I love it!
  15. After...... Pic looks like its just metallic blue , but camera doesnt capture the luster, the luminescence of the paint, it doesn't capture the vibe, the true life of the color dancing before your eyes, the canera can't capture the deep reflected rays of metallic sparkles shaded by the blue overtones streaking to your dome piece's ocular nerve and then straight to your heart then evoking feelings of joy and passion and igniting memories of a color, unknowingly and subconsciously loved, seen of a vibrant mid-afternoon sky on a warm summer's day! Ya all that Razzmatazz and Razzle Dazzle! 🤣
  16. Yessir! It is the physical size. First two numbers are the diameter and second two are the length. So a 2845 is 28mm in diameter and 45mm long (which happens to be the same size as a BRUSHED 390 motor 😉). I have a similar size and Kv motor you mentioned, your 2845, i have a 2848 5900kv. And i have used it in a stock TT-02 just to see what it could do. It did better than i expected. I also have Surpass Hobbies KK series 2845 - 4200kv, & 3600kv. My favorite 28xx motor is a Purple & white, Turnigy XK 2848 - 3650kv motor. It's as pretty as it is powerful. I run it in a MERV (1/16 Mini Erevo) with a tiny dark blue, USB programmable, Rocket RC 60a ESC (based off the , not very well known, Hobbywing eZRun-60A-SL esc) Its a wicked combo! The TT-02 comes with both a 390 motor mount & a 540 motor mount. The brushed 540 is the same size as the 1/10 scale rc industry standard 3650 Brushless motor (36mm diameter & 50mm long). You can pick up an inexpensive 3650 size Brushless motor for between $20 & $35 bucks and your TT-02 will come alive with much faster speed & power or some of both. For bashing you would want something close to a 13.5turn or 3300kv , its just a good middle ground motor that can be a little of either fast by gearing lower fdr or powerful by gearing a little higher FDR. My favorite TT-02 has a Trackstar 3650 -13.5t 3040Kv in it with an 80a Turbo ESC and its fast and powerful! (pro tip: when you see motors rated by "turns" you can tell if it is sensored or sensorless by the "turn" number, if it has a ".5" after it its sensored like 13.5T, if its a solid number with no decimal like 13T then its going to be a sensorless). Anyways, if you want speed slap that 5900kv in your car, it will give you some of that speed your looking for! And the 4200kv is also a fairly descent basher motor in a TT02, but a faster-basher! My White TT-02 has a 3650 - SkyRC Ares Pro Ver.3 - 8.5t motor in it that hovers around the 4000kv mark and its got tons of top end and plenty of power it has a 120a ToRo esc powering it. Id say go with the 5900kv and when you get used to it get yourself a 3650 motor, your TT-02 will really wake up with a 3650. if you still want it to be a speed run the Surpass Platinum 3650 - 5900kv motor is a very good bit of kit for not much monetary loss!!!! It is actually a strong and fast motor having larger bearings (than its brothers), a bumped rotor, heavier guage wire and connectors, and it tests very well in reviews and on my SkyRC Motor Analyzer. Its usually under / or at $30 bucks. You will be amazed at the speed!!!!!!! Absolutely the best upgrades you NEED to get are the alloy driveshaft, alloy adjustable motor mount, high speed gear set , all u already have, and a decent alloy steering upgrade, the plastic steering can bind, you can cheaply upgrade the steering you already have using "Tamiya 54550 RC TT02 3×18mm Step Screw 2Pcs". Its a pack of Low Friction step screws to replace the step screws holding your steering to the chassis. Around $5 bucks. It can help smooth your steering out. If you are using the stock spring shocks see if you can find a set of oil filled shocks. Tamiya CVA Super-Mini shocks work great and do not break the bank. They are $22 for a set of 4 on Am@Zn.
  17. What size is the 4200kv? A larger motor, like a 3660 or 3665 would be able to turn a larger pinion gear pretty easy. Wouldnt get hot as easily as a a smaller motor with a high kv turning a large pinion. Trial and error i guess would justify which would be better but im leaning towards the larger 4200kv , just my opinion though. Your a carpet racer so you have awesome experience 👏, a knowledgeable racer you are and so I am completely confident you will "send it"!!!! 😆 Im going to look at my Version 2 blu and see what FDR its running. It has had Ruddog R542 4.5t geared at drag runs and speed runs. And now has 6.5t 3650 5100kv in it. I kept chart of all gear ratios for each motor in each car. I have Excell spredsheet if you want or need help with gear selections. Bigget motor can handle lower FDR than 3650 so that would be advantageous, and a 4200kv large motor is awesomely fast, my Arrma Vendetta came with a 3660 3900kv motor in it stock and it was pretty quick. I have a Turnigy XK 3665 3190kv with 30t pinion and 50t metal spur and its faster now with heaps more torque, so it can top out faster than it is with a spool for smaller spur, but its just a basher for now, has a sweet nissan z body so.i dont wanna wreck it....much! And you definitely on the ball with being able to run low FDR since your just running a straight you can let it cool down. Thats right where you want it to be with your FDR, where motor gets to its temp allowances , you dont want to overheat because magnets loose gauss when heated and that will make your motor loose power. (Gauss:Unit of magnetic flux density). 160°F max, try to keep it 140°-150°F, you can use a little temp pen like a HobbyStar HT-101 Infrared Thermometer, or Am@Zn has nice temp guns cheap, just get one (or make sure yours you already have, has) with adjustable Emissivity. This allows you to change how the temp gun reacts to diffrent surface types, wether it be steel, aluminum, plastic, marble, beast! 😆 It should already be permanently set to alloy range or have adjustability to set it @ alloy or @ aluminum or your temp finding results will not be accurate! Start slower fast and work up to faster fast, best tip i can think of! You want to find trouble first, DONT let it find you!!!!! Wobbles turn to fishtales turn to cartwheels turn to pieces! Btw, you can see some good speed run techniques used oem at RLAARLO website. Check.out their current AK-917 model .
  18. I have a half dozen TT-02 cars in various configurations. One of my Favorites is my 3rd build, a little underdog made up of various colour parts and an epoxy repaired chasis! Lovingly named '3rd Da Turd'!😆 Anyway, Turd has a 2s/3s Trackstar 80a Turbo ESC with a Trackstar 13.5t motor in it. This motor is a sensored 3040Kv Brushless so very close to what you are using as far as RPM per Volt. Turd can pass 45mph easily with Turbo enabled and on 3s I am using a high speed gear adapter with 0.6mod 64t Spur + 30t Pinion giving Turd an FDR of 5.55. For a spot on FDR using a 13.5t motor I would want to be as close to an FDR of 4.5 as possible but for practice/bashing you would want to gear your FDR a little higher to prevent overheating and stressing out your running gear (ESC & MOTOR). BUT! You want to speed run, this would mean you would want an FDR at exactly 4.5 or even lower considering you will be running the car for short l3ngths of time thus helping to prevent overheating and you want to reach the highest speed possible. To figure out your FDR ((assuming you are using standard size wheels and tires (btw, grab a set of foams, for asphalt maybe a set of Contact 30mm-30 to 35 shore rear and 26mm-325o37 shore front)) you use the TT-02 Internal Gear Ratio of 2.6 then multiply that number by the result of the following equation: (Spur tooth number÷Pinion tooth number). So using Turd as an example we would have (64÷30)×2.6=5.5466666667 or an FDR of 5.55. Use that equation as a start and move lower until you start seeing your motor (or esc or battery) getting to hot, get a cheap temp gun and watch your temps! RCJuice has both of their infrared temp guns on sale this week for $15 & $13 each! Trying to use a pinion over 31teeth is not easy without modification of your gear cover so as Kowalski86 stated swapping your Tamiya 0.6mod spur gear out for a 48p would be a great idea especially since your running speed runs. Or look at getting a Tamiya 64t or 60t spur gear. You may want to get a higher KV motor if you can. Even a super cheap F540 4370kv will outrun a 3100kv as a speed run car. Or a great choice and cheap is the Surpass Platinum 3650-5200Kv, it is around 30 bones, pretty good quality having larger internal shaft and ball bearing diameter than a standard sensorless Surpass and is very fast while not asking to much from an ESC. One of my other TT-02 cars is set up for speed and is running a 6.5t motor which in this case is a 5520Kv motor. This is a fast car, very fast, like outrun a stock Vendetta WITH it's speed pinion installed off the line and top end, EASILY! The only reason this car can handle a 6.5t motor (imo) is by using a Tamiya Club member's build tips... especially with the drivetrain! The member's name is TMM and the post is named "TMM's TT02 / TT02B Garage". I used every tip he offered and I haven't had a diff fail or even make "clicking" noise....just smooth hard running for almost 3 years now. A cheap and easy way to make a tough diffrential for the TT02 is to build a TT01 diff instead! You need the metal TT01 gear pack and TT01 diff case (because the TT02 is a 4 way diff and the TT01 diff is a 3 wat and therefore the diff cases not compatible. This is a VERY cheap option and makes for a VERY tough diffrential and its "drop in" compatible with the TT02 diff box. You can even grap a GPM metal Ring gear (outer diffrential gear) for around $15 and a GPM driveshaft bevel gear for under $10 giving you an inexpensive ALL METAL drivetrain (minus the spur but you can get that in metal as well but you dont need it and it adds rotational mass you just dont want). Integy makes a front suspension guard, I used one as a pattern to make a front splitter and then added a generic rear diffuser from MST for around $13 each. This keeps air from bouncing your car around from underneath. Cutting the back completely off your RC Body is a very cheap tip for speed run cars! Reason, at speed the back end of your body acts like an upside down spoiler and will lift the rear of the car with more force than even a large rear wing can compete against! So a small rear wing (for aerodynamics) and removing the rear of the body to allow air to flow out will work better in most cases. You can get sheets of lexan of varying thicknesses at Hobbytown or Amain to make yourself an underpan to seal up the bottom of your car to the edges of your body, Velcro wotks great for temp mating the 2 together. Keeping air from finding places to slow you down or buffet your car out of a straight line are VERY important. Speak8ng of keeping a straight line, turn down your Transmitter's Dual Rate on Channel one, you dont want or need a lot of steering ability when your trying to just go straight! You can also turn up your Exponential. Friction is described in the First law of thermodynamics! (friction was recognised as a mode of conversion of mechanical work into heat) Friction is your enemy in sp33d runs, wether it be from the air, the faster you go the more energy you will need to power through the air! Then there is rolling resistance so you need true, flat and often skinny tires, And then there is your drivetrain, all the gears and the ball bearings and the dogbones or CVDs and on and on. You want that TT02 to be able to roll downhill without pushing it to get it started, preferably WITH the motor in it! But some motors have magnets so strong this is not possible, so without the motor is fine. You can use Graphite powder in your inner diffrential outdrives and outer hub axles where your dogbones go in, and put some graphite powder in a paper towel or napkin and rub the powder into the ball ends of your dogbones and cups the bones go 8nto, & the inner and outer swing ends of your upper and lower Arms, & the outer ball ends of your upper and lower Front Arms. This will make them almoat as slick as potentially possible, graphite is one of the most slippery substances known to man. And best part is it is absolutely DRY and will NOT EVER attract dust or dirt and will even repel it by way of dust/dirt "slipping off! . Its super lightweight and Graphite powder is available very cheap at hobbytown/Amain in their Pinewood Derby section in a bottle with a long metal needle application tip for again VERY CHEAP! I use Arrowmax and/or Yeah Racing ball bearing lubricant. The Yeah Racing brand is very sticky leaving strings between your fingers when you seperate your fingers with some lube between them. Thus helps it stay where it needs to be, but adds a small amount of resistance. The arrowmax is just good clean lube for bearings, any brand will do. Keep them clean and lubed for smooth rolling and long life. I know a lot of peeplez use lithium grease in their diffs when running speed runs, its amazing lightweight diff lube. I use Tamiya AntiWear inside all of mine as per TMM's recommendation. You dont need any lube inside your differenttial box on the diff ring and propellor shaft bevel gears but i add graphite powder there and have had zero problems with any of the diffs outer ring gears wearing. Weight is another enemy of speed runs. If you follow most people's recommendations you will remove the TT02 motor shroud and scoop as it "retains more heat than it removes so remove it and replace with heatsink". But if you were to measure the distance between the scoop's 4 screw holes one would find they are 30mm apart, therfore Tamiya probably assumed one would install a lightweight 30mm hi speed fan in between the scoop and the motor cover! I did! I put a highspeed 32,000rpm Arduino fan (with LED in it) in it and the whole thing weighs less than a small alloy heatsink and fan and cools much better pushing the air ONLY around and through the motor instead of all over the place. Also you want the fan to suck fresh air down onto the motor, not pull it away. A good Whats that all about then? (Wild Turbo Fan) or any hi speed fan will do, but use a plastic one for more weight reduction. Please forgive me if i stated anything you already know , definitely not trying to run over top of your knowledge and experience, and forgive my spelling errors, fingers BiG & fone keyboard small! 😆 (and brain gassy so farts often! 😂). I hope you tear up the speed record in your challenge! It a fun thing to attain, SPEED! But be careful, it's definitely addictive! 😉 😜
  19. ddaenen1, are you still around? old post, but google dont care, google findz it anyway, no matter when or where it was posted google gonna find it! 🤣 anyway, i got what i believe is a TA04 Pro in a trade. the guy I got it from tried to keep the shocks but I told him it's a no-no to separate special or proprietary parts from old RC cars and key let me have them! But he did keep the body and trades it, a Calsonic Skyline GT-R, i found the guy it went to and he graciously traded it to me for a Royal RC Hond RC30 VRF750R low spur gear option part and a Turnigy XK purple 2845 motor that i had spare.. TY Jimmy! my ta04 had a broken ball diff and a missing diff, front belt, front belt tensioner, pinion and spur. spur was easy to replace, pinion to. i put a TA04 front belt in since it doesn't require the tensioner (though i think its a lil to tite! 😖). i have since found a new ball differential on the bay, i was holding out for parts to make a gear diffrential but can only source the gears but no housing 😖. i made the broken diff it had into a solid diff and placed it in the rear and im putting the new diff up front for a drift setup. i had spare Trackstar 9.5t, Trackstar 80a Turbo esc so that went in. im surprised how well it ran with just a few brushed motors i had tried. A twisters, a SPA 240ws, & team checkpoint...the checkpoint made friends quickly and it was a fun car to drive. im glad I didn't just source it for parts and slap them in a tt02!!!! i would like to know if any other tamiya parts are cross compatible, mainly diffrentials ...geared preferably. But also maybe a belt tensioner, the one that sits on top of the upper radio tray for the front belt. i was looking at a tensioner for an hoi that looks like it might work ...cheap enough i could try it anyway.
  20. Pylon80, I just saw your question, I will snap some pix! Just an inexpensive $13 MJX 45a BL ESC and 2845 motor. I wanted the running gear to match blue and purple, sanded heatsink down to bare aluminum then a couple/few LIGHT coats of Anodising Purple allowing aluminum to show through. and sanded plastic housing , then a silver basecoat and a few coats of Anodising Blue (Candy blue will give pretty much same effect and also offer more shades of blue). My blue didn't match gear all to well, meh! its good nough 4 me i guess. Can't stress how light the coats should be and how clean surface should be, no rubbing alcohol it leaves petroleum distillates and paint will pool or separate leaving an uneven coat. I clean with distilled water just as if i was actually anodising with 9v batteries and anodes! Before....
  21. •I used Dupli-Color "Metalcast" spray paint with good results on shock springs. They call it an "Anodizing" paint. (I call it a "candy coat" paint! 😆). But it does work well. I have tried it with and without sanding the springs first and the sanded springs held the paint perfectly over time and with plenty of use I've had no flaking. (1000-1200 grit). The sanded springs also came out with a more metallic look to the finish because the paint is translucent and the extra surface reflection from the sanding added to the metalic shine, the paint kinda takes away some of that shine through that true anodizing keeps since it's so much thinner than coats of paint I think. •I will definitely be trying the Tamiya Metal primer alvinwh mentioned with my next spring painting job. Thank you alvinwh! •You can have excellent results with this paint when painting plastics as well. I painted my CVA shock bodies with the Metalcast. Start with a silver or some shade close to silver for a base coat, whatever paint you have that looks most metallic. Seems the smaller the particulate the better the outcome so heavy, large metal flake base coat looks a little unlike metal in the final result. So anyway, a light coat of primer first (or silver primer & paint all-in-one).then silver, then EXTREMELY LIGHT coats of the Dupli-Color Metalcast paint , I cannot stress that enough. True for any translucent candy type spray paint, just use light coats until the desired shade emerges. The more coats you use the darker it gets. It's available in Red, Blue & Purple. I have also added a light coat of Plasti-Dip's "Pearlizer" paint over the Metalcast paint with interesting results , Pearlizer is another translucent "candy" paint. I'm guessing Tamiya's "Pearl Clear Coat" would work much better though. And will be trying that next. It looked like an iridescent anodizing. Lots of peoplez liked. It.
  22. Mine does have the brake light leads and I tested the BEC voltage via the receiver cable and found the voltage is right on the money at 5.7 volts.
  23. Im jealous, i burned mine to a crispy crisp! I had damaged my Kyosho rheostat speed controller and had moved my Novak T4 to an RC-10 and my T1 to a Blackfoot. But i REALLY wanted to drive my Optima! So whats a fella to do? Well of course i soldered a battery connector DIRECTLY to the motor! I wasn't a complete idiot (just 99% so) so I soldered a simple switch to the positive lead! 🤣...Anyway, off I went to the church field in my backyard and BASHED, oh the speed, oh the DIRECT current draw!!!! But then it happened! I drove under a long time parked tractor trailer straight into the grass under it that was NEVER cut and the car just stopped entangled in the long grass stems, i ran, then saw smoke, i ran faster, then saw 🔥 fire! I ran as fast as i ever had in my life!!! The grass was dead on top and a large fire quickly engulfed the entire underside of the trailer!!!!!!! I stood staring in horror! Well for all my bad luck that day i did get lucky that only the dry tips caught and then burned out in a massive fireball! But my motor was toast! Melted and unrecognizable. The pastor came outside and was so nice, he knew me and felt bad. He actually handed me a $50 bill and said "get a new motor, I've been trying to get someone to cut that grass for years, it's a fire hazard after all !". What a crazy day! I put a check in the mail that night for a Trinity 10t Double wind called "The Big Daddy" with 49,500 RPM. I still have the Trinity but it wasn't anything like that 240ws (imo anyway)!!! I'd trade all my Trinity brushed motors for one 240ws, for nostalgia as it was my first modified in my first hobby grade car.
  24. Great build! When I was reading about the trouble you had with your very smart "front upright mod" i was reminded of a 'TT-02 Rally build video' I saw. The builder used part A10 from the upper A-arm ball joint as a replacement for the lower ball joint bushing we all hate in Rally builds...A6! He starts with another idea you had, on the front hub he filled down the lower upright post that goes through the lower A-arm till it was just "proud" of the lower ball joint, not flush with the ball joint, so that when you put it together it won't lock up. Then, to make sure that the 10mil screw that goes into the lower upright post will fit, he uses a 2.5mil drill bit to drill through the lower upright post as it is a "blind hole" that won't allow a 10mm screw to go all the way into your recently filled down post. Next he assembled the upright but on the lower ball joint instead of using the "ground clearance ruining" bushing part "A6" he uses the upper balljoint bushing part "A10" (in the video, at this step, he mistakenly calls this part A11). He used a 10mm stainless, machine-thread, cap screw during assembly. Now for the top upright post, after using "A10" to replace "A6", he simply substitutes a couple stainless steel washers in place of "A10". To add my own mod here: a little protection too this area can be added by using a stainless steel washer where the lower shock ball joint connects to the Lower Front A-arm, wether it be in front of the lower shock ball joint when using the included "MB4 step screws" or a "shock ball end", or behind the lower shock ball joint if using a "pivot ball screw". I have found using a washer here protects the lower A-arm, the lower upright balljoint and even my front shock's lower ball joints from everything, even street bashing! After throwing sparks and wearing down I just add a new washer. I also add washers, using countersunk screws for a perfectly flush fit, between the two MA3 screws used with the front and rear lower bumper mounts. That keeps the lower chassis almost scratch free and throws MASSIVE SPARKS!!! 😂
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