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Unknown Driver

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About Unknown Driver

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  • Birthday 04/09/1984

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  • Location
    Connecticut, USA
  • Interests
    Carpet Off-Road Racing (Winter), Vintage RC Restorations (Winter) and Road Course Racing (Full Scale)

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  1. I restored an old Blackfoot for a friend a while back - it had a Thorpe diff and was SO stuck together that I initially thought it had a spool (locker) instead of a diff. Electric motor cleaner worked like a charm. I think I may have soaked the gear for a little bit even. Soap/water will take forever and make a mess.
  2. Morning folks, Finally got around to painting/decaling the body for my Terra Conqueror. They're reproductions since I didn't want to use my NOS body set, but I'm happy with MCI Decals and Team Blue Groove as usual!
  3. I'll 2nd Mad Inventor - I wasn't going to get into the weeds, but I'm also running Revo driveshafts. Great mod for reliability - I got mine from a guy on ebay that made them custom with the correct yolk on the transmission side so you don't have to grind/clearance the bejeezus out of everything. For LiPos - I just run my race packs, which right now is a 5000 mAH ProTek 100C shorty. I run buggy/truck/short-course indoors in the winter, so all summer those packs just sit. It's nice to get a cycle on them from time to time. I may turn the timing down on my motors to compensate for the added pop from the LiPo though. I was shocked at how much faster the truck was 'just' from going to a LiPo pack.
  4. I blew the differential gears in my TXT-1 a couple weeks ago - had replacement parts off ebay shortly thereafter. I've found the following helps the driveline survive... 1. Don't run heavy tires with foams 2. Avoid "crazy" power combinations (I run dual Reedy 17T brushed motors with a 2S lipo and it's plenty of power without being a reliability issue) 3. Modulate throttle and avoid high-traction surfaces (grass/pavement) The TXT can't be driven like an SMT10 or the new Losi monster truck, it's just not built for bashing. But if you love Tamiya and want a big truck, they're awesome fun and unique.
  5. You caught me - sorry for spreading fake news. My Super Astute came without motor/esc - though it WAS shrink wrapped.
  6. Living in the US I had NO idea that kits in other parts of the world were sold un-shrinkwrapped. That's really surprising. For those of you on the other side of the world, what kits are not including motors/ESCs? In the last year I've build a Super Astute, Lunch Box, Brat, and Nova Fox and they all came with. I agree that it's more than a little lame that Tamiya isn't including ball bearings. If they don't learn to innovate somehow, I'm not sure how much longer Tamiya will live off nostalgia...
  7. LOL no worries man, this thread was a dump-and-run for the community anyway. Where it goes from here I don't mind.
  8. Oh I think that's a given!
  9. I'll 2nd Jonathan's comments. For "fun" driving you can get away with a less expensive motor. If it makes less power than a top-tier equivalent, who cares? Drop a point or two (13.5 --> 10.5 for example) and as long as your electronics can handle it, you're good to go. As much as I despise HobbyKing, I've run the TrackStar motors before and they're actually pretty good, even compared to high-end motors. Keep them oiled and running reasonable temps and you saved some money. In a racing situation: totally different story. When you're limited to a 17.5, or 13.5, or WHATEVER - you need the motor to be as stout as the rules, regulations, and engineering can permit. That's why you'll see "super-elite-premium-hand-picked-unobtanium" edition motors. Because SOMEONE, SOMEWHERE, will pay to have a motor that's 2% better than average. Half the time though, those people also can't drive. So...godbless. LOL
  10. The Fury is a good looking motor - I have one of those in my shelf-collection alongside a "Conquest". The other 95% of the collection are all Trinity (epic based) motors though. On the stock silver-cans your truck will last forever!
  11. At first I thought I was getting called out for bashing Traxxas on the forums. Must be a sign of a guilty conscience. LOL Always happy to put parts to work instead of having them sit!
  12. There are discussions on these forums about this - but if you're planning to do any racing do some homework first. At a minimum - know what the people you'll be racing against are driving. If "racing" means with buddies on a dirt track in someone's back yard, the Super Hotshot will be super fun. If it means racing at a club against modern cars (RC10B6, TLR 22 5.0, etc etc) you're going to be at a significant disadvantage. Just make sure whatever you get will work for what you're trying to do
  13. You have expensive taste (Super Hotshot) but I approve! Glad to hear you're up and running!
  14. Yup. Sometimes I wish the hobby would go backwards. Race cars have become complex to the point that if you don't put effort into studying chassis setup you're at a disadvantage. I've seen lots of people buy a new 22 buggy, B6, etc and struggle because their notion of what works on-track is way far off from reality. While I'm sure they tweaked the cars 20+ years ago, there's something nice about just charging a pack and driving.
  15. Extra plastic that had to be trimmed off. They were little whiskers on the outside of the gear that would smack the adjacent gear when turning and sound awful. Nowhere near as bad as the bevel gears in the Re-release Fire Dragon though. That transmission didn't even spin freely.
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