SlideWRX

3 degrees seems to be the max someone in a racing situation might run. If it is mostly for launch traction, drag racers might crank it up further? I think technically it is relation to your center of gravity, so racecars with a lower CG don't need as much for the desired effect. I took it for a run today and didn't notice anything bad in terms of handling. I really need to run it with the shims, then pull them out and immediately re-run it to get a real feel for the difference.

At first I thought you were jamming an O-ring into the hole as a stopper. I was so confused. I must be tired - it is past my bedtime.

Anti-Squat! One thing I've wanted to do to my DT-03 was to play with the anti-squat in the rear. It can help with putting down power, but really I don't know the good/bad of it. putting spacers under the gearbox won't really do anything, but putting spacers in front of it will... Spacers where the gear box meets the suspension tower will cause it to pivot back a bit, causing some anti-squat. Some calculations I did said that for every 1mm I put in the top screws, I need to put ~0.4mm in the bottom screws. That is a big point - it isn't the same for the top & bottom screws since it is pivoting. I worked out that ~2.5mmon top & 1mm on bottom got me roughly 3 degrees of anti-squat, so I am starting there. Here are the locations when I say top & bottom. the top has the silver washer (0.5mm) & spacer (2.0mm), and the bottom only has the spacer (1.0mm). These parts were never meant to have spacers, so keeping them in place while screwing them back together was a bit of a challenge. There is a gap now! more gap at the top. The shock tower support has a little guide lip that is hiding the silver washer. You can see after assembly that there is a 'kick' on the bottom now. It should be roughly 3 degrees. That was already a place of stress and scrape marks, so I'll have to watch it and put some better protective tape down there. Taking the gearbox off the chassis brought to my attention some damage that had happened sometime recently. I do have an extra chassis that I bought a while ago for spares, so when this degrades more I do have a replacement. Anyway, I gotta drive it and see if I can tell a difference! I may do this to my DT-02 chassis as well; I suspect that it will hold up better, as the -02 chassis seems a little more durable.

DT-02/DT-03: Current:5 Cost:5 Durability:4.9 - 'sealed' but stuff still finds a way in Performance: 3 - 0.8mod/32pitch instead of most common in racing 48p. Only two gear choices officially (17t & 19t). See below. Design:4.5 - Needs to open up the area around the motor for ventilation Drive:3 - 0.8 mod is a little louder than 48p. Gear diff & ball diff both available. Gear diff isn't sealed though, gotta use putty to stiffen it. Options: 1? don't know of many options for it. No slipper spur available. Control arm mounts are molded in, which may interfere with custom setup. Spur gear is molded to next gear which makes replacing/modding difficult. The stock spur is a 55t/19t molded all-in-one.There is a 52t 3d print on thingverse; I haven't tried it. It turns out the Stadium Blitzer spur is 50t/19t that fits well enough. (P#9335111) I really wish they had put more pinion holes into this thing; maybe a 13t & 15t & 21t in addition to the 17t & 19t. I drilled some holes to put my own 15t pinion in there to run lunchbox tires on a stock-ish motor so hopefully it won't burn-out. Gear Ratio Spur 17t spot 19t spot 55t 9.3(17t) 8.3(19t) 52t 7.5(20t) 6.8(22t) 50t 6.6(22t) 6(24t)

If you need/want to keep the price down, This would be fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Universal-Batteries-Compatible-Connectors/dp/B003MXMJX8/ It would charge the battery in about an hour, and give you a green light when done. For that battery, 2 amps is as high as you should go. Roughly take the mAh (2000) and divide by 1000 to get the maximum amps for charging (2A). For twice the price this would give you a voltage display and charge a lot more things, and if you picked up more batteries with higher mAh it could charge them quickly too. If the lunchbox is fun and you see yourself getting pulled further into RC I would suggest this one or something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Connectors/dp/B00466PKE0/

Re-pin the sensor lead? Sounds like there should be an adapter out there somewhere (or an opportunity to make one) to re-arrange the wires before they hit the ESC. My understanding is that the hall effect sensor is there to provide position only in low speed operation where the EMF doesn't provide the position - once it is running the EMF takes over to figure position. I don't have a link to any confirmation of that though.

I really wish Tamiya released/redid all the colors to make it easier to get them for rebuilds/creative stuff. The availability is random or worse, just not there. They need to release a set with every color for each build size - I'd love to pick up one of each color in a set of the short & mini to play around with on my buggies.

That orange ESC screams Novak to me, but I can't find a match...

Excuuuuse me, a 'high performance racing balancing tool', thank you very much!

Yeah I forgot about the stop at the front of the battery when I posted this. With that post, and the chassis brace over top and the servo the shorty lipo is pretty solid in there. I cant get it out without unscrewing the chassis brace. The balance seems surprisingly centered, but I was using primitive tools to check it - it is balancing on a t-wrench... The white shocks are to 'match' the white body. Not quite though.

I didn't like the stock electronics setup, so I re-arranged it as well. I ran the shorty along one side and the esc under the cross brace. The receiver sits next to the servo (not in at the moment).

The annoying thing is it is still more expensive than Asia prices. Asiatees has the TD2 for $175, so with shipping it is the same-ish cost as tamiyausa sale price. The markup over here is ridiculous on the more expensive models.

My sons 10th birthday was Wednesday, and Tonight (Friday) my sister stopped by for a quick hello and to give him a gift. Tomorrow we will see Grandma for lunch, then off to the Reptarium, a local reptile/spider place that will let some of them out of their cages to crawl on/around you. Sunday is relaxing & chores, then Monday is a vacation day to go chase the solar eclipse! We are about a two hour drive from the center line in Ohio, and it looks like there aren't too many clouds in that area/that day.

tamiyabase.com is about as close as you can come to a full Tamiya part database. The database stuff is lower left on the main page.

The part number for the unpainted body is 1825880. Hmmm... yeah seems to be out of stock most everywhere. Do'h 1825294 is the part number for the Plasma Edge (original) and Gravel Hound, which as far as I can tell is the same body. It is also out of stock many places...