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SlideWRX

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About SlideWRX

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  • Birthday 04/22/1974

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  1. You will have to see if it is painted under the fins. They might have been the first thing to go on before the apocalypse, or they might have been the cardboard overspray protection they used while painting the body and put on later!
  2. My first thought was "those spikes need straightening, some rollovers have bent them". Ahh but they are cardboard? Maybe lower it so it rolls over less? feels like it could use an engine & exhaust sticking out the back. It looks like it has received the 'dusty apocalypse' treatment, including the frame. The shocks seem far to clean. Looks like an interesting start to a project!
  3. I see you haven't 'tired' of this yet... I love this build!
  4. I love that they are still here after 50 years, doing it 'wrong'. I mean, a lot of us could drink a lot of beer telling everyone how Tamiya is doing it 'wrong'. Yet after 50+ years of RC they are still here so they are doing it right... A lot of other companies have come and gone with models that 'did it right'; great engineering, manufacturing, great looking models etc., but very few have stayed around. Some feel more like race teams that have make a profit in a niche product segment based on what is winning right now, but not a lot of breadth to their offerings, mostly chasing the next big thing. Tamiya has a LOT of different rc things, whether it is the new hotness or not. In addition, RC is only part of the company, something that not all rc manufacturers have. Tamiya have their big homegrown mini market, educational toys, static models, and more. Tamiya has managed to pull from those other areas to create interesting things. Their fortunes don't ride only on the success of their rc business. A couple bad years where interest shifts to where a company doesn't have a product, that would shut down many rc brands is just a lull for Tamiya while they regroup.
  5. Yeah that would hide the front shocks for a better look. Scale wise, I think the comical bodies would actually have to proper proportions, since these are so small that the cockpit looks big. Those are setup for a short ~170mm weheelbase though. 170mm might actually be proper 1/10 scale for those. M-chassis Fuchs - 3d print those are some 1.7-sih Fuchs you could print out and find tires for. I *think* tamiya 51427 should fit? This is all guessing. That might give you the small scale of the wheel/tire combo they use. The next question is whether they fit on the chassis you want to use...
  6. I love those videos - straight forward answer to a lot of motor questions.
  7. I think the lack of replies means... we don't know? The only Fuchs style Porsche wheels I see are on 4wd chassis, so you would have to do a hex conversion on the front to run them. Otherwise, they... should work? The Race of Champions buggy is similar to these autocross buggies and it looks like it occasionally has Fuchs style mounted on it.
  8. SUCCESS! Removing the swarf fixed it. No stuttering at all, just smooth operation. For some reason, the ESC likes my throttle to be reversed, but otherwise working well. I didn't run it for long since rain was coming, but it stayed nice & cool, or at least barely warm. When the debris was shorting thing it got hot fast.
  9. I bought my first brushless motor several months ago, and finally got around to soldering the connections and installing it. It hasn't gone well! It turns out my original sketchy Amazon soldering iron wasn't 80 watts; more like 30, and the questionable solder that came with it was awful as well. That was all fixed and the Motor & ESC installed. The calibration didn't go well, as it turns out the sticker on the ESC labelling the A, B, & C connections is backward from the manual picture. When I tried to calibrate it (set Neutral, then Forward, then Reverse), the forward would only calibrate if I put the controller in reverse, and then the reverse in forward. I'll double check that the throttle on the controller wasn't reversed when I get the motor back together, and re-try the whole calibration. Ultimately, I thought I had it setup and tried to run it, and it wouldn't go anywhere; it would stutter and generally not move, and the motor got hot for a minute or less of trying to produce motion. So being a mechanical kind of guy, I took the motor apart. And this is where you come in! after I had it apart, I noticed this 'shim' lying around (the tiny one on the right). The more I think about it, the more I think it is an unwanted sliver off of the normal shim, and possibly it was floating around and shorting things out. Before I re-assemble this without that part, I wanted to ask if anyone has a similar shim, or similar experience? I haven't seen any magic smoke come out, or any sparks or any damage on the sensor board.
  10. I would only add that a stock 540 (or 380, for that matter) and NiMH might last several years on the standard aluminum. I think adding a torque tuned 540, or Lipo batteries would significantly increase the wear.
  11. Some of the irons have adjustable temperature built in. Mine does, but I bought a holder for it anyway, so very similar setup to a soldering station in the end. On a side note, it looks like both the regular sponge with water and the brass 'sponge' work well for cleaning the tip before/after soldering. I found people who used either for decades swearing that their choice was the best and kept their tips in great working conditions.
  12. The correct setup is very important! I just replaced my Amazon 'from China' 80w soldering iron with a Hakko FX-600 72w and some good solder with flux, and it is a night and day difference. - I plugged both into a Killawatt meter at the wall plug, and the Amazon started at 40 and slowed to 30 watts to heat up at its highest setting. The Hakko pulled ~65 to start and slowed to 55watts at the same temp. The Hakko had a higher setting available as well. - The Amazon iron had a 5-10mm gap between the tip of the ceramic heater core and the soldering tip, while the Hakko maybe had 1mm, transfering heat much better. - The Amazon kit came with 'solder', but didn't list if it was 60/40, lead free or if it had flux or anything. I ordered some new 60/40 flux solder with 2% flux. The solder with flux was almost as important as a properly working iron! The Amazon item worked well enough for some fiddling with circuit board type stuff, but not 14Gage wire between a motor and esc. Youtube videos would show less than 10 seconds for a solder to be done, and I was holding it there 40-50 seconds or more trying to get it to work. With the Hakko it worked just like the videos.
  13. Yup, add volume to the intake/exhaust systems. The number one thing for a 1:1 car to reduce intake/exhaust noise is to add volume to the mufflers, because if done correctly it minimizes changes to back pressure. Yes, your 1:1 car air intake has a muffler, although it is conveniently also the air filter box. If you see some oddly shaped blobs hanging off of the intake duct that otherwise aren't attached to anything they are likely helmholtz style resonators.
  14. New Spur gear!!! Or rather, an old spur gear. The Stadium Blitzer uses the same style of spur & counter gear molded together. It has the same 19 tooth counter gear side, but the spur side is only 50 teeth compared to 55 of the DT chassis. Instead of having a 17 or 19 tooth pinion, 22 or 24 would be the options. The ratios change from 9.3 & 8.3 overall (17t & 19t) to 6.6 & 6 overall (22t & 24t). The pics are of a 22 tooth fitment. There are a couple issues to watch for: 1. the counter gear is shorter than the DT gear, so instead of having ~12-13mm of contact with the idler gear, it only has 6-7mm contact. I will run for a while and see if it wears or breaks or anything. Because of that shortness, I added a 5mm spacer on the shaft to keep the bearings in the right spot and not wandering. 2. The blitzer gear has a flange on it that forces the pinion fitment tight against the case on the motor side. I had a heck of a time finding a spot to feed the hex wrench to tighten down the gear. Eventually I got it though. I'll do a before/after top speed run to get some numbers posted. Part number is 9335111, $7.50 on TamiyaUSA.com
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