GermanTA03Guy

Ta03f pro David Jun Ta03 rs trf Losi xx cr kinwald https://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b633/v33za/100_5885_zpsyebed0c3.jpg Losi xxx https://site.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexcr/TripleXCR_Intro/1585-JYU_3357.jpg And also kyosho lazer zxr, tomy intruder, .....

Makes sense.. still somehow i am not Willingen to give up just yet.. this is what we're comparing... i fuess the idea comes from this origin: i know lee Martin ran a sand viper body on a trf201. Ive seen a sand viper body as well as an astutebody being used on a dt04. The trf 201 is a carbon copy of the b4... So here i saw my Chance to run an astute body... maybe it will also help to use an astute undertray, too ? Well see how the curves fit.. or maybe i can use a nearly trash b4 chassi that could be Partly cut ? I know, i could buy an astute... but it Puts me off that they are 1. Not cheap and 2. Said to be so brittle. And i have 2 b4s and try not to accquire more RCs....

Wow, thanks for the generous offer ! Would be great if i could just drive over and try. But i guess with shipping, formalities and tax betwen uk and germany this might not be so desirable to do... actually a 1:1 scan of the outline of an astute body would probably help already !

Haha im sorry for that... im a tamiya purist as well tbh. But i dont want to get into yet another chassis... and as much as i love the astutes, i think the b4 is Just the ultimate 2wd rear motor chassis when it comes down to reliability and performance as well.. in the end all Just the justification not to buy an astute kit but get the looks..

... Just wondering, as I love the original astute body shape.... ive seen a sand viper dt 02 body fitted to a rc10b4, and now all these dt04 mods with sand viper or astute bodies start to appear online.... id like to put an astute body on my b4... maybe someone knows, before I buy one "for trash" ...

Thanks, glad you like it luckynumber15 is me btw cheers

... its what i do all of the time...

Thats what i looove about rc cars. Wanna change springs ? You can do that with your thumb and your Index finger just turn the car around with one hand 1:1 cars are a pita to wrench on a lot of times.

Wow thanks for the nice book. To keep it simple as a reply, generally to invoke more understeer, go harder in the front or/and softer in the back. That refers to damping, springs, stabilizers, tires, foams, everything. Also more toe in at the rear should you be able to adjust ist, maybe also more toe in at the front. Maybe less Camber in the front and more in the back, but that Depends. If you can adjust it, maybe more caster in the front to tame it. With the diff etc. Its roughly the same, go harder in the front and softer in the back. Width go wider in the front, narrower in the back... etc. On and on. Just when you built a Frankenstein car, maybe it has some underlying quirky geometry ? Then alot of setup stuff is like putting makeup over it, the problem might remain... Btw, most of the touring car stuff is applicable to rwd buggies in a way, as the physics are the same (all about weight shifting and weight transfer). Just the drivetrain effects are a bit special on 2wd. And with some setting it can seem weird , e.g. to a certain point putting weight in the front causes more oversteer, until it doesnt... same with on power/off power things (diff). The can have opposite effects (but for a reason). The best thing is it all interacts with the way youre driving it, to Mix things up a bit...

Oops thanks for pointing out. totally overlooked that (and nakajima)... as long as you dont put ukyo katayama in your builds... you would spin out a lot ...

I like the double meaning with the bragging ..as its all carbon and so on... By the way, the stance with the low wing is really great. And the senna Connecticut with the livery and the yellow wheels doesnt hurt at all either... great great stuff, congrats. How about a little senna sticker somewhere or his nice number 12 in that font ?

you need a nice wing Slogan sticker: NO FLEX ! ... or "not flexing...."

Good point. Free drivetrains is maybe also a thing. I remember being Impressed a lot by Losis, yokomos etc in the 90s, how much punch, acceleration they were able to deliver and how quiet, efficient and effortless.... Compared to that my tamiyas felt as if they had to work harder to accelerate, which you could hear, see and feel...

Regarding rc10 or losi xx i think things like Hydra drive, a slipper, suspension and more aggressive steering geometry and other materials than abs or cast alu/steel, as well as scale details, ... where what set ae and losi apart from tamiya e.g....

I'd highlight 2 factors as well: A) slop: tamiyas are for huge serial production which means big tolerances and also for novices to build. Which means, the parts have to fit without reworking . For a competition model, pro builders dont worry about shimming or reaming until every moving part moves perfect without binding or slop as they know what they are doing ... or just pay more for really precise manufacturing. Whilt novices just put everything together and then complain if it doesnt work. This means safety tolerances, which means wobbly parts and maybe quirky handling etc. With focus on fun and not laptime... B - battery fitment: tamiya has always incorporated their easy to use Stick Packs in chassis Design. Back in the day pros used saddle Packs for better Balance and Center of gravity, today its the lcg batteries or shorties, whilst today tsmiya still focuses on a battery form factor similar to Stick packs: the life 6.6 sticks which are easy and safe for little kids. This battery thing leads also to a compromised weight balance, center of gravity etc. C - ease of use for driving/handling I think the basic geometries of most tamiya cars is very novice safe. Exaggerated: for racing you need a car that wants to turn, so you can throw it around and dont need massive steering input to get around the corners. This needs expertise and experience in driving and setup. Otherwise you just spin out. This would be frustrating for beginners. I think most tamiya cars dont do that. They are made to be steered "by small children" so you can just go full lock and still make the corner. This is not fast and also not satisfying for Experts. Of course a lot can be dialed out, but not everything. I thinkmost tamiya cars are not extremely agile but rather have a safe and slow handling. Then there are other factors like weight, complexity, stiffness, cost of manufacturing of parts, setup options, etc. Pp, where tamiya just focuses on other things than laptime perfection... Oh and maybe a good summary is "highy foolproof" which says the avove aboutbuilding, driving, running, adjusting...and also goes together with the typical tamiya quality out of the Box... no need to think, know or fiddle anything, Just follow the easy manual and it will work (somehow and tame). No complaints because something isnt right and needs an expert to understand and Set up properly sharp. Tamiyas are not razors edge sharp in any way...