TamiyAddict362

I think many others have covered all essential points. A bit off topic but I'm afraid it's going to be an inreversable trend of technological improvement. Look at our cell phones or other mobile devices and they are all using Lipo batteries. No offense but it's just like NiMh replacing NiCd two decades back. I bet we won't be able to buy NiMh batteries in a few years. Just no manufacturer will be making them.

It's strange if Tamiya calls it "Lancer Evolution" wthout specifying which generation it is. Let's think out of the box. Perhaps it refers to the first generation, which should have been called officially just "Lancer Evolution" without any number behind? (It was refered to as Evo I only after the release of Evo II.) Maybe not a re-release, but a new production of an old model which has not been produced by Tamiya before? Just like the Audi V8 TT02 or 2CV M05?

Negative. The arm trick is just for TA02 versus TA02S(W), TA01 rear arms on TA02 to make a 237mm wheelbase. For TA03, it is the bathtub chassis, shorter belt and the FRP reinforcement plate that you'll need to change the wheelbase. Just see shapes you'll know that the TA01/02 arms can never work on a TA03 gear box, at least not without major modifications.

Retired.

Sometimes a random-searched product description photo just won't show everything in the package. My purchase does come with a pair of wires. Go ahead, pay double for an extra shiny YR label which is not even sticky enough to attach itself on the motor in the above photo.

Looks like it's just a generic item being copied and copied thousand times in China. Re-branded under many different labels. Green "pillars" that hold the brushes, and slots on the can, etc. are exactly the same. If I were you, I would just get the cheapest I can find on EBay or AliExpress, as cheap as just half of Yeah Racing's price tag. The YR label isn't worth anything extra in my opinion. BTW I have one of these, 21T, without any "brand" label on it. Much faster than the Tamiya Sport-tuned. A 17T for a RWD fox? I guess it will fly.

I never did exact measurement, but I have the following interchangabiity experiences which I'm 100% sure. For shock length (ignore the lower eyelets because TA02 uses short while TA03 uses long), TA02 = TA03F = Rear of TA03R (including shock body and the SILVER piston rod) For TA03R, everyone knows the front shocks are shorter, together with the lower damper mount to clear bodies like NSX and CLK-GTR. It is at that time (year 1997, look at the stamp on that Q-part tree if you don't believe it) that Tamiya designed "SUPER-Mini CVA" which is the shorter version for that specific purpose. The front of TA03R is shorter than its rear end by around 5-6mm. Front of TA03R (i.e. SUPER-Mini CVA) = TT01 and TT02 (including stock body and the BLACK piston rod) which are commonly used these days Conclusion: TT02 stock set is shorter than TA02's standard shock by around 5-6 mm. Again, I mean shock body plus piston rod regardless of what eyelet is used. Trust me, I can bet everything on its validity. I've owned, compare and re-built so many Tamiyas across these years.

It is basically a re-brand of Flysky's Fs-It4s model. Google it and you can see it is exactly the same thing, aside from a sightly different plastic shell. If I remember correctly, Flysky's 2.4G technology is DSSS, which is worse than Radiolink's FHSS. (For DSSS vs FHSS, I'm no science expert but internet information says the latter is more stable. Futaba and Sanwa nowadays also use FHSS.) My personal experience with Flysky's lower end models is that they are generally a bit less responsive when a lot of cars are running. It's dangerous enough to cause accidents and damage a beautiful bodyshell. Radiolink doesn't have the same problem.

Yes. Yes. Yes. But then you only have drag brake at neutral, make sure you're okay with that. HW is a trusted big brand, unlike those unnamed Chinese manufacturers. If that's mentioned on the specification I'll believe it. I use my 1040 and don't feel it's much less powerful than my 1060.

Even for a runner, I couldn't accept any my mistake on it, say a misplaced sticker, or one with a dog hair underneath which makes it obviously noticable. But interestingly, I could live with someone else's. If I bought a second-handed shell which is poorly made, I could comfortably have it as a runner. It's really a psychological problem. Some people just couldn't stand themselves committing mistakes no matter what.

That'a just a re-brand of the Hobbywing 1040, which has two versions too. They have different labels yet exactly the same outlook. "Crawler & Boat" = drag brake as mentioned (can be turned off with a jumper but then there is no brake at all usually for boats). "Car"

I'm with you. Made a mistake on a bodyshell, sell it, and then buy another to start all over again. If that affects your daily life, that's OCD. I'm on medication, seriously.

Okay you have bought a set of TRF already. So the current deal should be better stick with them and have some easy remedies. Here you go, just but a pair of longer damper shafts for the rear. If your stock shafts are not damaged, swap them with the TRF for the rear. They should be of the same diameter. If you need to buy new but have no luck finding just shafts, perhaps buy #50519 to just get the shafts. It may look a bit strange upon full compression (it is still too long to be outside the shock body), but is workable given how little suspension travel the chassis needs to have.

Regarding the shock options, mind you, the TA03R and RS have lower front damper mount to clear the body, so if you look carefully, front shocks are shorter than rear. Front shocks are common size nowadays, the super mini CVA as you would found on newer kits, say TT02D or S. These TT02 cars should use 50 or 55mm shocks. The rear of TA03R(S) should be around 58 or 60mm as found on the older TA01/02. Another point to note is that these lengths are measured eye to eye using the short eyelets (V1 in the pic), but TA03 has to use the long ones (V2) due to its triangular lower arm design. You have two solutions. 1. Buy 55 mm shocks to use both front and rear. For the front, put an o-ring in the shocks to shorten it by around 2-3 mm to make it shorter than the rear. I've tried, and the result should be good. It's shorter than stock a bit so there is less preload and springs need to be a bit harder to hold the car above the ground for a desirable distance. (60 mm will be too long for the front!) If you don't mind going old-school, get #53155 (it's still widely available). The TA03R/RS TRF use them (although a different shock body colour), and you can download the manual easily for your reference as to how to install them perfectly to get the desired lengths. 2. Buy two sets of shocks, a set of 55mm and another set of 60mm. If you don't mind other brands, try YR (Yeah Racing). It's cheap and yet the quality is not bad. For the price of a set of TRF, you can get two sets of YR. If you stick to Tamiya, then you may need to do a bit more research on the damper lenghts as they are sometimes not specified clearly on the packages. For Tamiya products, the eyelets V2 should also be included so you have to use it. For other brands, you have to use those eyelets fron your original car. If they are too old to retire, buy spare parts #50598 and you'll need two packs. As for the motor, the formula-tuned is 32T?! It's a bit too slow. Even with its bearings and open end bell design, it should not be much faster than a silver can, especially on a heavy car like TA03. It's designed for light direct-drive vehicles (F1 cars!) so putting it in a heavy TA03 should be too demanding. It will work and won't fry your 105 ESC, but isn't a good choice. Get a Sport-tuned as suggested by some fellows above. It's safe for your 105, officially okay according to Tamiya. With a larger pinion to gear it more aggressively, the speed should be much faster than stock. If you want to go a bit faster, then try the Super Stock RZ, it's also 23T and is marginally usable on the stock ESC like 105. But be careful not to gear it tall, or your ESC is going to die. I would use the stock gearing to relieve the burden on this hot motor so as to keep the 105 alive.

Thanks for your detailed explanation. I have not much idea about these physics as I was just bashing around. Learnt a lot. Appreciated.