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Everything posted by TamiyAddict362

  1. Sometimes a random-searched product description photo just won't show everything in the package. My purchase does come with a pair of wires. Go ahead, pay double for an extra shiny YR label which is not even sticky enough to attach itself on the motor in the above photo.
  2. Looks like it's just a generic item being copied and copied thousand times in China. Re-branded under many different labels. Green "pillars" that hold the brushes, and slots on the can, etc. are exactly the same. If I were you, I would just get the cheapest I can find on EBay or AliExpress, as cheap as just half of Yeah Racing's price tag. The YR label isn't worth anything extra in my opinion. BTW I have one of these, 21T, without any "brand" label on it. Much faster than the Tamiya Sport-tuned. A 17T for a RWD fox? I guess it will fly.
  3. I never did exact measurement, but I have the following interchangabiity experiences which I'm 100% sure. For shock length (ignore the lower eyelets because TA02 uses short while TA03 uses long), TA02 = TA03F = Rear of TA03R (including shock body and the SILVER piston rod) For TA03R, everyone knows the front shocks are shorter, together with the lower damper mount to clear bodies like NSX and CLK-GTR. It is at that time (year 1997, look at the stamp on that Q-part tree if you don't believe it) that Tamiya designed "SUPER-Mini CVA" which is the shorter version for that specific purpose. The front of TA03R is shorter than its rear end by around 5-6mm. Front of TA03R (i.e. SUPER-Mini CVA) = TT01 and TT02 (including stock body and the BLACK piston rod) which are commonly used these days Conclusion: TT02 stock set is shorter than TA02's standard shock by around 5-6 mm. Again, I mean shock body plus piston rod regardless of what eyelet is used. Trust me, I can bet everything on its validity. I've owned, compare and re-built so many Tamiyas across these years.
  4. It is basically a re-brand of Flysky's Fs-It4s model. Google it and you can see it is exactly the same thing, aside from a sightly different plastic shell. If I remember correctly, Flysky's 2.4G technology is DSSS, which is worse than Radiolink's FHSS. (For DSSS vs FHSS, I'm no science expert but internet information says the latter is more stable. Futaba and Sanwa nowadays also use FHSS.) My personal experience with Flysky's lower end models is that they are generally a bit less responsive when a lot of cars are running. It's dangerous enough to cause accidents and damage a beautiful bodyshell. Radiolink doesn't have the same problem.
  5. Yes. Yes. Yes. But then you only have drag brake at neutral, make sure you're okay with that. HW is a trusted big brand, unlike those unnamed Chinese manufacturers. If that's mentioned on the specification I'll believe it. I use my 1040 and don't feel it's much less powerful than my 1060.
  6. Even for a runner, I couldn't accept any my mistake on it, say a misplaced sticker, or one with a dog hair underneath which makes it obviously noticable. But interestingly, I could live with someone else's. If I bought a second-handed shell which is poorly made, I could comfortably have it as a runner. It's really a psychological problem. Some people just couldn't stand themselves committing mistakes no matter what.
  7. That'a just a re-brand of the Hobbywing 1040, which has two versions too. They have different labels yet exactly the same outlook. "Crawler & Boat" = drag brake as mentioned (can be turned off with a jumper but then there is no brake at all usually for boats). "Car"
  8. I'm with you. Made a mistake on a bodyshell, sell it, and then buy another to start all over again. If that affects your daily life, that's OCD. I'm on medication, seriously.
  9. Okay you have bought a set of TRF already. So the current deal should be better stick with them and have some easy remedies. Here you go, just but a pair of longer damper shafts for the rear. If your stock shafts are not damaged, swap them with the TRF for the rear. They should be of the same diameter. If you need to buy new but have no luck finding just shafts, perhaps buy #50519 to just get the shafts. It may look a bit strange upon full compression (it is still too long to be outside the shock body), but is workable given how little suspension travel the chassis needs to have.
  10. Regarding the shock options, mind you, the TA03R and RS have lower front damper mount to clear the body, so if you look carefully, front shocks are shorter than rear. Front shocks are common size nowadays, the super mini CVA as you would found on newer kits, say TT02D or S. These TT02 cars should use 50 or 55mm shocks. The rear of TA03R(S) should be around 58 or 60mm as found on the older TA01/02. Another point to note is that these lengths are measured eye to eye using the short eyelets (V1 in the pic), but TA03 has to use the long ones (V2) due to its triangular lower arm design. You have two solutions. 1. Buy 55 mm shocks to use both front and rear. For the front, put an o-ring in the shocks to shorten it by around 2-3 mm to make it shorter than the rear. I've tried, and the result should be good. It's shorter than stock a bit so there is less preload and springs need to be a bit harder to hold the car above the ground for a desirable distance. (60 mm will be too long for the front!) If you don't mind going old-school, get #53155 (it's still widely available). The TA03R/RS TRF use them (although a different shock body colour), and you can download the manual easily for your reference as to how to install them perfectly to get the desired lengths. 2. Buy two sets of shocks, a set of 55mm and another set of 60mm. If you don't mind other brands, try YR (Yeah Racing). It's cheap and yet the quality is not bad. For the price of a set of TRF, you can get two sets of YR. If you stick to Tamiya, then you may need to do a bit more research on the damper lenghts as they are sometimes not specified clearly on the packages. For Tamiya products, the eyelets V2 should also be included so you have to use it. For other brands, you have to use those eyelets fron your original car. If they are too old to retire, buy spare parts #50598 and you'll need two packs. As for the motor, the formula-tuned is 32T?! It's a bit too slow. Even with its bearings and open end bell design, it should not be much faster than a silver can, especially on a heavy car like TA03. It's designed for light direct-drive vehicles (F1 cars!) so putting it in a heavy TA03 should be too demanding. It will work and won't fry your 105 ESC, but isn't a good choice. Get a Sport-tuned as suggested by some fellows above. It's safe for your 105, officially okay according to Tamiya. With a larger pinion to gear it more aggressively, the speed should be much faster than stock. If you want to go a bit faster, then try the Super Stock RZ, it's also 23T and is marginally usable on the stock ESC like 105. But be careful not to gear it tall, or your ESC is going to die. I would use the stock gearing to relieve the burden on this hot motor so as to keep the 105 alive.
  11. Thanks for your detailed explanation. I have not much idea about these physics as I was just bashing around. Learnt a lot. Appreciated.
  12. I've never driven one. So do you mean having smaller suspension travel in the front helps handling? My usual set-up for a 4WD basher is softer shocks at the back with more spring preload. So basically the rear end sits lower a bit and it tends to be more sticky to the ground. So it should be the opposite for a RWD? I'm not a racer. My aim, again, is just to keep the car on the road and not to damage the bodyshell.
  13. Wow thanks for your detailed explanation. I never race. 99% of my RC time is on the table building and stickering. I just do casual bashing (to a very careful and limited extent) to enjoy the beauty in motion. There is a small circuit not far away from where I'm but I just like to drive when there is not much traffic. The least thing I want to see is traffic accidents with others and/or loss of control and then cracking the bodyshell. BTW I have ordered this 210 wheelbase Colt (again, a Taiwan brand) Porsche body.
  14. Yes, I've read the manual and calipers are separate red plastic parts which are screwed to the arms/hubs. They should look so real with wheels rotating. These set-ups must be something good to toy with, esp for shelf queens. I've only seen similar designs on expensive alloy hop-ups designed for drift cars.
  15. I've just bought a MST TCR-M chassis which can be configuated to both RR and MR layouts (and FF!), just because: its MacPherson suspension system looks sexy (although I wonder how much damping the "spring-only" shocks will have), and; its brake disc and caliper design is very good looking. For the price similar to a M05 but which doesn't even have bearings included, I think it is unbeatable. At least it does look good, and I've heard some positive comments re. MST this Taiwan brand. This car will mostly sit on the shelf and may have some light running on a proper track. I'm going to build a porsche on this first m-chassis of mine in 20 years of RC history. (I've only got experience withtouring cars, 4WD and FF, and CC01, so rear wheel drive is pretty new and strange to me.) I prefer the chassis to match the real-car drive train as much as possible, so on a porsche body it is rear wheel drive, but the motor position can still be open for discussion. Many have mentioned that RR/MR is difficult to drive on RC cars, say M04 and M06 which makes Tamiya even put RWD shells on the easy-to-drive M05 instead. Comparing RR with MR, what do you think? (Since this is a Tamiya forum, maybe the discussion can be steered a bit to compare M06 and M08.) Yes I know M08 is much superior in terms of design complexity/adjustability or even the plastics used. But shall we just focus on the handling or performance difference between moving the motor forth or back around the rear wheels? Any sharing is much appreciated.
  16. I've owned both. If you're going to run the car quite often (especially with any fast motor, say, faster than a black can), then notice that both chassis are equipped with ball differentials and plastic differential outdrive cups. These cups are quite thin (unlike the TT02's which is obviously thicker and bigger to make it more durable) and cannot withstand too much power. So these should be the first thing you'll need to buy and change, even before your first run. On FF03, you can use a TA06 gear differential (you need to change the gear box too) which is easily available. But for TA05, I've heard that, the TRF41-ish differential does not fit directly without modifications and buying other parts. So it's going to be more expensive and troublesome, perhaps with some trial and error. (If you're fascinated by the TA05, why not consider the new TA08? Just buy your desired body separately.) Plus, a FF car has completely different behaviour on the road and is fun to drive. It's surprisingly stable too, even with the stock tyres which have not much grip. It's something totally new compared to what you have now (XV and TT).
  17. Just curious. Upon searching looks like it comes with 3 sets of spring. Is the softest one not soft enough for your rallying?
  18. HPI shell, isn't it? I think Tamiya has a better overall proportion, and the HPI one looks a bit different (more ball-ish), so it's quite easily distinguishable. For this 2004 version, there is one thing I like of the HPI, it's the front light decal. The Tamiya one doesn't look too good on the front light decal, unlike many other models with more realistic decaled lights, like the 97 or 99). I love your seats, do you 3d-print them? Are there any other interiors?
  19. TT01 and TT02 are, essentially, the only current bases to be paired with any new touring car bodyshell made by Tamiya. So there must be a need for this entry-level platform for Tamiya to sell. TT01 was introduced in 2003, and TT02 2013. If we add the 1997 TL01 in this line, then a TT03 is probably being designed. Is there anything you particularly want or unwant from this entry-level inexpensive product line? Prior to TT01, plastic dog bones/shafts should be beyond imagination, but these are proven to work well with a silver can or even a black can now. Workable, but ugly and bulky size. I still think the friction dampers in the TL01 were a much better design. With the rubber tube inside, at least there is some real friction, plus we can add different greases inside to have some real damper effects. It shouldn't be that expensive to produce, just an extra piece of long screw and rubber compared to the "dampers" in TT01/02. I hope to see these friction dampers back to facilitate some cheap bushing fun. Both TT01/02 have basically the same drive train design. It's simple but highly efficient (especially when compared to the TL01, which is like a tank). Will a 03 be innovative? Is there anything ever better you can think of? I'm excited. (TA08 or TB05 or TC01 are of course good but I think many people share this spirit of upgrading step by step. When you build something from the most basic foundation and then have it get better, it's very satisfying. Even more satisfying when you, with a smaller sum spent, can achieve a comparable level of competitiveness to other expensive platforms.)
  20. Yes blue and gold are always a good match but personally I've been conditioned to think that this is a Subaru trademark. Mitsubishi Evos are, on the contrary, in red and white. Just kidding. Yours does look nice.
  21. Never thought of VTA wheels. Sounds like a good idea. But Tamiya doesn't seem to produce these, is there any other good brand? Upon googling I found some Protoform, but they are expensive. For those with fake sidewalls, yes I've seen some, but I personally don't like it. Perhaps I want the whole thick tyre to be real rubber.
  22. Thanks for that suggestion. Not a bad idea, but I've not enough confidence to get the right size by my bare hands. I always find it difficult to cut foams (into a good shape), even more difficult than cutting plastics (which I can remedy by sanding).
  23. The shell is done after 4, 5 hours of continuous decaling job. My fingers are painful rubbing too much. But I'm happy with the result.
  24. Hello, I love RC Subaru rally cars so much, both for the sheif and bushing. It is something I had dreamed of but couldn't afford, a TA03F WRC 97 model. (I was just able to buy a cheaper TL01 at my age of 12). So, now to compensate for the childhood losed, I've been building Subarus for whatever purposes. I have no real life racing knowledge but it seems to me that the WRC team had used different types of wheels. Some rims are obviously smaller than others, but with "thicker" tyres with taller tyre walls. Compare the following two sets of photos. The first one is what I mean (looks like more rally) and the second is presumably more street. In terms of scale, Tamiya RCs seem to faithfully capture the street versions, using typical-sized touring rims. 2004: 2007: Yes we could use the rally block to resemble the thicker tyres but then the proportion looks wrong. The normal touring rims are just too big and the rally block is still not thick enough. I'm building this for rallying and causal bushing, so I prefer the car to sit higher. Suddenly when I was looking at an online store I was fascinated by the TT01E racing truck tyres. I think they make a better rally tyre than all others. Then I found someone in the forum had mentioned that the racing truck rims are just m-chassis size. So I'm experimenting this - use the racing truck tyres on m-chassis wheels. This set of wheels (#51362) features a matt-silver colour which is also very nice in my eyes. One problem may be that there is no suitable insert, so I just leave it empty inside. I'll see if it's better in terms of bushing performance (if I'll ever go to run this car). Thoughts? Anyone has rally experience with these truck tyres? And what insert do you put in them?
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