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TamiyAddict362

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Posts posted by TamiyAddict362


  1. I think many others have covered all essential points.

    A bit off topic but I'm afraid it's going to be an inreversable trend of technological improvement.

    Look at our cell phones or other mobile devices and they are all using Lipo batteries.

    No offense but it's just like NiMh replacing NiCd two decades back.

    I bet we won't be able to buy NiMh batteries in a few years. Just no manufacturer will be making them.

    • Like 2

  2. It's strange if Tamiya calls it "Lancer Evolution" wthout specifying which generation it is.

    Let's think out of the box. Perhaps it refers to the first generation, which should have been called officially just "Lancer Evolution" without any number behind? (It was refered to as Evo I only after the release of Evo II.)

    Maybe not a re-release, but a new production of an old model which has not been produced by Tamiya before? Just like the Audi V8 TT02 or 2CV M05?

    1993_Lancer_Evolution1.jpg


  3. 31 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

    But the YR label is nice and shiny. Also they give you wires, so you have to give them props for at least attempting a value-add. The wires are even different colors.

    Sometimes a random-searched product description photo just won't show everything in the package.

    My purchase does come with a pair of wires.

    Go ahead, pay double for an extra shiny YR label which is not even sticky enough to attach itself on the motor in the above photo.:lol:

    GoolRC 540 55T Brushed Motor

    TrackStar 1/10th Brushed Motor 540/27T

    High Quality GoolRC 540 17T Brushed Motor For 1/10 On-Road Touring RC Car  Y6K1 RC Model Vehicle Parts & Accs Radio Control & Control Line

     

    • Haha 1

  4. Looks like it's just a generic item being copied and copied thousand times in China.

    Re-branded under many different labels. Green "pillars" that hold the brushes, and slots on the can, etc. are exactly the same.

    If I were you, I would just get the cheapest I can find on EBay or AliExpress, as cheap as just half of Yeah Racing's price tag. The YR label isn't worth anything extra in my opinion.

    BTW I have one of these, 21T, without any "brand" label on it. Much faster than the Tamiya Sport-tuned. A 17T for a RWD fox? I guess it will fly.

    GoolRC 540/45T Brushed Motor for 1/10 RC Car|motor for|brushed motormotor  motor - AliExpress

    TrackStar 1/10th Brushed Motor 540/27T | HobbyKing

    Yeah Racing Hackmoto V2 Modified 35T 540 Brushed Motor Shaft 3mm for 1/10  Rc Car Spare Parts Accessories|Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress

    • Like 1

  5. I never did exact measurement, but I have the following interchangabiity experiences which I'm 100% sure.

    For shock length (ignore the lower eyelets because TA02 uses short while TA03 uses long),

    TA02 = TA03F = Rear of TA03R (including shock body and the SILVER piston rod)

    For TA03R, everyone knows the front shocks are shorter, together with the lower damper mount to clear bodies like NSX and CLK-GTR. It is at that time (year 1997, look at the stamp on that Q-part tree if you don't believe it) that Tamiya designed "SUPER-Mini CVA" which is the shorter version for that specific purpose. The front of TA03R is shorter than its rear end by around 5-6mm.

    Front of TA03R (i.e. SUPER-Mini CVA) = TT01 and TT02 (including stock body and the BLACK piston rod) which are commonly used these days

    Conclusion: TT02 stock set is shorter than TA02's standard shock by around 5-6 mm. Again, I mean shock body plus piston rod regardless of what eyelet is used. Trust me, I can bet everything on its validity. I've owned, compare and re-built so many Tamiyas across these years.


  6. 14 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

    2. Absima CR3P - Cheap to buy and I heard that cheap Flysky Rx can be used. If original Rx, don't seem to have much options (see below)

     

    It is basically a re-brand of Flysky's Fs-It4s model. Google it and you can see it is exactly the same thing, aside from a sightly different plastic shell.

    If I remember correctly, Flysky's 2.4G technology is DSSS, which is worse than Radiolink's FHSS. (For DSSS vs FHSS, I'm no science expert but internet information says the latter is more stable. Futaba and Sanwa nowadays also use FHSS.)

    My personal experience with Flysky's lower end models is that they are generally a bit less responsive when a lot of cars are running. It's dangerous enough to cause accidents and damage a beautiful bodyshell.

    Radiolink doesn't have the same problem.

    • Thanks 1

  7. 2 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

    So if I want 100% reverse, it will be better to go for the crawler one? As most ESC these days only have 50% reverse. Drag brakes means brakes at neutral right? 

    Also, 40A for a 12T limit? Will it really work? 

    Yes. Yes. Yes.

    But then you only have drag brake at neutral, make sure you're okay with that.

    HW is a trusted big brand, unlike those unnamed Chinese manufacturers. If that's mentioned on the specification I'll believe it.

    I use my 1040 and don't feel it's much less powerful than my 1060.

    • Thanks 1

  8. 9 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

    I totally get that, although in my case I demote the imperfect shell to runner status rather than selling it.

    Even for a runner, I couldn't accept any my mistake on it, say a misplaced sticker, or one with a dog hair underneath which makes it obviously noticable.

    But interestingly, I could live with someone else's. If I bought a second-handed shell which is poorly made, I could comfortably have it as a runner.

    It's really a psychological problem. Some people just couldn't stand themselves committing mistakes no matter what.

    • Like 5

  9. On 9/29/2021 at 8:40 PM, alvinlwh said:

    I am browsing Absima products page and see that they have ESCs for "Crawler & Boat" and another just a 40A ESC with no label saying for what, presumably car. What's the difference between a crawler ESC and a car one? 

    Also, they are selling 12T motors with a 40A ESC as a package, surely that will not work? The good old 1060 ESC is 60A and is rated for 12T, 40A is like 1/3 less. 

    That'a just a re-brand of the Hobbywing 1040, which has two versions too. They have different labels yet exactly the same outlook.

    "Crawler & Boat" = drag brake as mentioned (can be turned off with a jumper but then there is no brake at all usually for boats).

    WP 1040 60A Waterproof Brushed ESC Controller for Hobbywing Quicrun crawler  and boat|Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress

     

    "Car"

    WP 1040 60A Waterproof Brushed ESC Controller for Hobbywing Quicrun Car  Motor|esc controller|brushed esccontroller esc - AliExpress

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  10. 13 minutes ago, Kol__ said:

    So I just thought I'd see what levels of perfectionism some of us might share here on the forum and if this a hobby that accommodates that type of thinking well.

    "My name is Kol and I am a perfectionist";)...

    Firstly, I find that there are some benefits to this mindset, such as always striving for the best results and quality, a sometimes unnatural desire to complete tasks to a high standard, an analytical and methodical approach to things which usually also includes a high level of attention to detail which in turn forms a large part of the ability to provide high quality results. In part it also fuels a desire to understand things inside and out, which means that fixing most things is not a problem, just another challenge to be met.

    However, it also has many serious negative impacts, such as an increase in the time it takes to complete tasks, a level of procrastination due to the self expectation to perform well (the first time, every time), an overly critical nature leading to an expectation on others to match your desire and approach to doing things in a certain way and expecting others to also seek the same level of quality, a harsh intolerance for incompetence. It also causes additional stress in daily life by complications due to the points listed above.

    Accepting the above about myself is not an easy thing to do at times, as this mindset can produce unpleasant behaviour and this can be imprinted on those around you. However, recently post-40yrs I am also accepting that we are who we are to a large extent and that perhaps I need to find an outlet for this perfectionism so that it can be targeted somewhere specific and possibly then release some of the hold it has on me in other areas of my life.

    I think, having stumbled on Tamiya RC again a few weeks ago after all these years, that this seems like it could be that outlet. It is a technical hobby, full of detail and instructions and mostly closed, accurate answers. On a more emotional level, for my generation it is full of nostalgia fueled by a childhood in which Tamiya featured quite heavily back in the late 80s and 90s levels - that gives the hobby a wholesome feeling and one rooted in feelings created in the foundation of adolescence. In particular the concept within the hobby of differing levels of care involved in ownership is highly attractive. The idea of a shelf queen (I'm sure you will not be surprised to hear, lol) is most appealing to me. As is the fact that you can simply select certain RC cars and label them bashers or whatever, which lets you off the hook of worrying about their condition so much and allows a sense of chaos and potential destruction to be acceptable. Longevity wise it appears there is a never ending selection of kits and options out there for building, maintaining, tinkering and modifying for the next however many years. Plus this hobby is cheaper than many others, yes I know it can get very pricey and the addiction to buying cars and parts I am already experiencing is a bit concerning tbh, but compared to hobbies like motorcycles and 1:1 cars this seems manageable... just about!:lol:

    Perhaps some of you recognise things mentioned above in yourselves and it resonates with some of you. Perhaps some of you wonder what I am talking about and perhaps some of you just think "poor, tightly wound ******!" Anyway, that turned into a bit of an essay... frickin' Jerry Maguire over and out... who's coming with me?...

    I'm with you.

    Made a mistake on a bodyshell, sell it, and then buy another to start all over again. If that affects your daily life, that's OCD.

    I'm on medication, seriously.

    • Like 5
    • Haha 1

  11. 6 hours ago, GTJames said:

    but they leaked so I bought some pretty TRF fluoride coated dampers. However, there are too short so it sits way too low at the back. How do I raise these?

     

    Okay you have bought a set of TRF already. So the current deal should be better stick with them and have some easy remedies. Here you go, just but a pair of longer damper shafts for the rear. If your stock shafts are not damaged, swap them with the TRF for the rear. They should be of the same diameter. If you need to buy new but have no luck finding just shafts, perhaps buy #50519 to just get the shafts.

    It may look a bit strange upon full compression (it is still too long to be outside the shock body), but is workable given how little suspension travel the chassis needs to have.


  12. Regarding the shock options, mind you, the TA03R and RS have lower front damper mount to clear the body, so if you look carefully, front shocks are shorter than rear.

    Front shocks are common size nowadays, the super mini CVA as you would found on newer kits, say TT02D or S. These TT02 cars should use 50 or 55mm shocks.

    The rear of TA03R(S) should be around 58 or 60mm as found on the older TA01/02.

    Another point to note is that these lengths are measured eye to eye using the short eyelets (V1 in the pic), but TA03 has to use the long ones (V2) due to its triangular lower arm design.

    10225070 - Tamiya parts database - TamiyaBase.com

     

    You have two solutions.

    1. Buy 55 mm shocks to use both front and rear.

    For the front, put an o-ring in the shocks to shorten it by around 2-3 mm to make it shorter than the rear. I've tried, and the result should be good. It's shorter than stock a bit so there is less preload and springs need to be a bit harder to hold the car above the ground for a desirable distance. (60 mm will be too long for the front!)

    If you don't mind going old-school, get #53155 (it's still widely available). The TA03R/RS TRF use them (although a different shock body colour), and you can download the manual easily for your reference as to how to install them perfectly to get the desired lengths.

     

    Tamiya 55mm Low Friction Alu. Damper Set

     

    2. Buy two sets of shocks, a set of 55mm and another set of 60mm. If you don't mind other brands, try YR (Yeah Racing). It's cheap and yet the quality is not bad. For the price of a set of TRF, you can get two sets of YR.

     

    If you stick to Tamiya, then you may need to do a bit more research on the damper lenghts as they are sometimes not specified clearly on the packages.

     

    For Tamiya products, the eyelets V2 should also be included so you have to use it. For other brands, you have to use those eyelets fron your original car. If they are too old to retire, buy spare parts #50598 and you'll need two packs.

     

    As for the motor, the formula-tuned is 32T?! It's a bit too slow. Even with its bearings and open end bell design, it should not be much faster than a silver can, especially on a heavy car like TA03. It's designed for light direct-drive vehicles (F1 cars!) so putting it in a heavy TA03 should be too demanding. It will work and won't fry your 105 ESC, but isn't a good choice.

    Get a Sport-tuned as suggested by some fellows above. It's safe for your 105, officially okay according to Tamiya. With a larger pinion to gear it more aggressively, the speed should be much faster than stock.

    If you want to go a bit faster, then try the Super Stock RZ, it's also 23T and is marginally usable on the stock ESC like 105. But be careful not to gear it tall, or your ESC is going to die. I would use the stock gearing to relieve the burden on this hot motor so as to keep the 105 alive.


  13. 1 hour ago, Wheel_Nut said:

    4WD cars tend to understeer on power, so its common to use use a rear stabiliser bar or firmer rear springs to make the car more responsive to the steering.

    Rear wheel drive cars normally don't have that problem, and will be more likely to snap around if you are too hard on the power or brakes.   The first rule is to do everything you can to maximise the grip on the rear which normally means soft springs and dampers.   Its not the opposite of what you described.  

    For the M04, I'm using the stock front springs, but pre-loaded so its hard up against silicone tubing.   The front compliance is mostly in the tyres, except on impacts caused by bumps.     If you can get shorter and harder front springs, you would not need to preload in the same way and have potential for good performance.

    Thanks for your detailed explanation. I have not much idea about these physics as I was just bashing around. Learnt a lot. Appreciated.:wub:


  14. 2 hours ago, Wheel_Nut said:

    My guess is the mid-motor will be more balanced in cornering, but the rear motor *may* have better on a standing start.  I would build the Mid motor version.

    IMO the handling problems of the M04 are caused by the soft front suspension.   On my M04 I put silicone tubing on the inside of the front shocks, so I can preload the front springs and largely limit the suspension travel.  Less front grip, but more predictable handling. It tends to lift the inside front wheel on turns.

    I've never driven one. So do you mean having smaller suspension travel in the front helps handling?

    My usual set-up for a 4WD basher is softer shocks at the back with more spring preload. So basically the rear end sits lower a bit and it tends to be more sticky to the ground. So it should be the opposite for a RWD?

    I'm not a racer. My aim, again, is just to keep the car on the road and not to damage the bodyshell.:P


  15. 2 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

    I love the look of that chassis, I've love a fleet in every configuration just to look at!

    As for handling - there are probably some more experience racers who can come along to provide more insight, but my understanding is that RR is an older design for lower-traction surfaces and MR gives better balance in modern tracks.

    Having the motor way out back puts most weight down onto the rear wheels for traction, and provides best grip under braking.  The drawbacks are a flighty front-end and a pendulum effect if you lose rear traction - the car will be hard to regain control of if you lose it.  For a long time, virtually all competitive RWD buggies had an RR configuration because it worked, but as tracks got grippier, racers found an MR configuration got better laptimes, so we saw more MR race buggies.  It's very common for RR race buggies to lift the front wheels on modern tracks, I wouldn't be surprised if an RR M-chassis would also wheelie with the right tyres, surface and motor.

    If you're on a high traction surface, the MR configuration brings the weight further forward to keep the front end down.  Steering should be a bit more precise and mid-corner balance better.  If you do lose rear grip, it should be easier to regain it.

    But if you're not actually going to race it, I'd say all the above points are moot.  Both configurations will challenge your driving skills unless you have good tyres and a good surface.  If you've got access to a proper circuit then that's fantastic, and if you're not racing competitively, you could go with RR to match the 1:1 layout and drive it as Porsche intended :) 

    Wow thanks for your detailed explanation.

    I never race. 99% of my RC time is on the table building and stickering. I just do casual bashing (to a very careful and limited extent) to enjoy the beauty in motion. There is a small circuit not far away from where I'm but I just like to drive when there is not much traffic. The least thing I want to see is traffic accidents with others and/or loss of control and then cracking the bodyshell.:lol:

    BTW I have ordered this 210 wheelbase Colt (again, a Taiwan brand) Porsche body.

    911_RS__04811.1543160845.jpg


  16. 2 hours ago, Superluminal said:

    Thats quite nice looking. It sort of looks like its a hybrid of a pan car with a touring car with that suspension and direct drive.

    Do with the brake callipers stay in place when the wheels are turned?

    Yes, I've read the manual and calipers are separate red plastic parts which are screwed to the arms/hubs. They should look so real with wheels rotating. These set-ups must be something good to toy with, esp for shelf queens.

    I've only seen similar designs on expensive alloy hop-ups designed for drift cars.

    • Like 1

  17. I've just bought a MST TCR-M chassis which can be configuated to both RR and MR layouts (and FF!), just because:

    its MacPherson suspension system looks sexy (although I wonder how much damping the "spring-only" shocks will have), and;

    its brake disc and caliper design is very good looking.

     

    For the price similar to a M05 but which doesn't even have bearings included, I think it is unbeatable. At least it does look good, and I've heard some positive comments re. MST this Taiwan brand.

    This car will mostly sit on the shelf and may have some light running on a proper track.

     

    I'm going to build a porsche on this first m-chassis of mine in 20 years of RC history. (I've only got experience withtouring cars, 4WD and FF, and CC01, so rear wheel drive is pretty new and strange to me.)

    I prefer the chassis to match the real-car drive train as much as possible, so on a porsche body it is rear wheel drive, but the motor position can still be open for discussion.

    Many have mentioned that RR/MR is difficult to drive on RC cars, say M04 and M06 which makes Tamiya even put RWD shells on the easy-to-drive M05 instead.

    Comparing RR with MR, what do you think?

    (Since this is a Tamiya forum, maybe the discussion can be steered a bit to compare M06 and M08.:lol::P) Yes I know M08 is much superior in terms of design complexity/adjustability or even the plastics used. But shall we just focus on the handling or performance difference between moving the motor forth or back around the rear wheels?

    Any sharing is much appreciated.

    mst-532194-06-800x800_0.jpg

    _1__8d5ab4162d2e6f15cd589de106e652c8f6b3cf5b.jpg

    138712125_2906118049713629_3004699355592477794_n.jpg

    • Like 2

  18. I've owned both. If you're going to run the car quite often (especially with any fast motor, say, faster than a black can), then notice that both chassis are equipped with ball differentials and plastic differential outdrive cups. These cups are quite thin (unlike the TT02's which is obviously thicker and bigger to make it more durable) and cannot withstand too much power. So these should be the first thing you'll need to buy and change, even before your first run.

    On FF03, you can use a TA06 gear differential (you need to change the gear box too) which is easily available.

    But for TA05, I've heard that, the TRF41-ish differential does not fit directly without modifications and buying other parts. So it's going to be more expensive and troublesome, perhaps with some trial and error.

    (If you're fascinated by the TA05, why not consider the new TA08? Just buy your desired body separately.)

    Plus, a FF car has completely different behaviour on the road and is fun to drive. It's surprisingly stable too, even with the stock tyres which have not much grip. It's something totally new compared to what you have now (XV and TT).


  19. 9 hours ago, Matty36 said:

    I put yellow wheels on my chassis, as it matched the stickers, but gold is a subaru thing. The stickers do take a long time, but worth the effort.20210228_232516.thumb.jpg.d9cd284853f8cd9c8228a3dc8cf17103.jpg

    HPI shell, isn't it?

    I think Tamiya has a better overall proportion, and the HPI one looks a bit different (more ball-ish), so it's quite easily distinguishable.

    For this 2004 version, there is one thing I like of the HPI, it's the front light decal. The Tamiya one doesn't look too good on the front light decal, unlike many other models with more realistic decaled lights, like the 97 or 99).

    I love your seats, do you 3d-print them? Are there any other interiors?


  20. TT01 and TT02 are, essentially, the only current bases to be paired with any new touring car bodyshell made by Tamiya.

    So there must be a need for this entry-level platform for Tamiya to sell. TT01 was introduced in 2003, and TT02 2013. If we add the 1997 TL01 in this line, then a TT03 is probably being designed.

    Is there anything you particularly want or unwant from this entry-level inexpensive product line?

    Prior to TT01, plastic dog bones/shafts should be beyond imagination, but these are proven to work well with a silver can or even a black can now. Workable, but ugly and bulky size.

    I still think the friction dampers in the TL01 were a much better design. With the rubber tube inside, at least there is some real friction, plus we can add different greases inside to have some real damper effects. It shouldn't be that expensive to produce, just an extra piece of long screw and rubber compared to the "dampers" in TT01/02. I hope to see these friction dampers back to facilitate some cheap bushing fun.

    Both TT01/02 have basically the same drive train design. It's simple but highly efficient (especially when compared to the TL01, which is like a tank). Will a 03 be innovative? Is there anything ever better you can think of?

    I'm excited.

    (TA08 or TB05 or TC01 are of course good but I think many people share this spirit of upgrading step by step. When you build something from the most basic foundation and then have it get better, it's very satisfying. Even more satisfying when you, with a smaller sum spent, can achieve a comparable level of competitiveness to other expensive platforms.)


  21. 12 hours ago, Nwc100 said:

    I’ve also got nothing to add on the tyre front, I’d be tempted to stick with the gold rims though, I think they look great together as seen here with a gratuitous shot of the Evo! 

     

     

    59C766F9-8DC7-47E2-91DB-3379FE42794E.jpeg

    Yes blue and gold are always a good match but personally I've been conditioned to think that this is a Subaru trademark.:P

    Mitsubishi Evos are, on the contrary, in red and white.:lol:

    Just kidding. Yours does look nice.


  22. On 7/23/2021 at 12:16 PM, Big Jon said:

    My MF-01X Escort has VTA wheels and tires to get the big sidewall. They're Minilite-style, so they look the part.

    The racing truck tires look just about right. 

    Never thought of VTA wheels. Sounds like a good idea. But Tamiya doesn't seem to produce these, is there any other good brand?

    Upon googling I found some Protoform, but they are expensive.

     

    Quote

    There are a bunch of wheels out there with fake sidewalls built in. They might look nice with some MST Michelin LTX tires.

    Quote

    This is, excellent! I hage also thoyght this is the way forward for scale rally. Needs someone to make some nice treaded tyres now. Another visial slight of hand would be to design some 1.9" wheels with a small inner spoke pattern and flat side you can then paint black. @Pintopowerdoes this on some wheels for his Hornet Superfly to fit modern 2.2 race track tyres whilst keeping the vintage look from 5 feet away. 

    For those with fake sidewalls, yes I've seen some, but I personally don't like it. Perhaps I want the whole thick tyre to be real rubber.

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