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alvinlwh

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About alvinlwh

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    Orkney, Scotland, UK

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  1. Circle cutter and Tamiya masking tape.
  2. Yes, I like Wonderland. For me, they are my "local" model shop, "just" 300+ miles away including a 7 hours ferry ride. Glad that the Sol works, just be sure to let it dry and harden completely before handling.
  3. https://www.discovery-japan.me/category/select/pid/20521
  4. https://www.discovery-japan.me/category/select/pid/21250 There is easily over £1k worth of kits you have there.
  5. You have a plastic scorer? You can try scoring it out .If you cannot be bothered, take a marker/fineliner , for that I think 0.2 or 0.3mm, and draw in the panel line.
  6. Right... Time to dump the damper oil out. And put in some softer ones. I actually put in some heavier ones than supplied as I was concerned that soft dampers may cause it to bottom out even more.
  7. The sheet for my M4 (regular) is for the same conditions as the Pro sheet but the values for the settings are different even if both chassis are identical. Are you saying the Pro sheet settings are better? If yes, I am going to print it out and get adjusting.
  8. Downloaded and tried it. Seem to work although connection seems to be iffy. Now even more things to confuse me, turbo degree???
  9. Is that a better setting? Mine is not the Pro and the settings on my sheet is quite different in most items. Also, thanks for your tip about sway bars, I also reset my MG Evo one correct based on that video.
  10. I did think about that and it will not just be a piece of tape slapped down as the exposed sticky side will trap stuff. If they are to be covered up, it has to be a plasticard or something with double sided tape around the edges. Will have to consider this some more.
  11. @M 800STD @mtbkym01 In your view, do you think it is a good idea to seal off these bottom holes to prevent dirt ingress to the gears? I run on unprepared surface where the will be some loose bits around.
  12. Wheels on and it is done. I had copied what M 800STD and mtbkym01 did and moved the servo to the top of servo. This gives me enough room to move the ESC across to behind the servo. This still does not give much room for a bigger pinion, maybe enough to use a 28T max. Also relocated the aerial support to the upper deck instead of the annoying position with the bottom screw position above the servo which makes installation very difficult. I have about a hair breath (1mm) clearance between the belt and servo mount, bench tests seems to be fine but I will be getting a spare belt when I make my next 3R order. It is blowing a force 7 out there now, so not possible to have a test run. Moving the ESC away from behind the battery allows a Lipo alarm (no LV cut off on this ESC) behind the battery. It also reduces the number of wires crossing the drive belt to just the battery. All these are just temporarily though and everything are held down with cheap weak tape instead of the good 3M stuff as I will be installing a low profile servo and when I am used to the chassis, a brushless.
  13. Home run now, Bag 9, last bag. Step 11 - Front and Rear Body Posts Assembly The body posts positions are very different from the Tamiya M chassis ones. Instead of using the usual clips, I will be using magnetic mounts for this instead.
  14. Not velcro, regular foam double sided tape. And not the good 3M VHB stuff, cheaper and weaker is actually better. You are working with a very small area of sand paper, it will get clogged up or worn out fast and you will want to change it often.
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