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About alvinlwh

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    Orkney, Scotland, UK

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  1. I do static models and am in the same situation with all the US forum talking about Klear which is not available here. Having to hunt down alternative names/equivalent is a pain sometimes.
  2. You have a massive workshop and no compressor?!?! Just hook your airbrush up to a proper compressor and stop messing around with battery powered toy compressors! Mine is set to 25 (cannot remember if it is bar or psi) and forgot it unless I need to spray the awful Vallejo or down to spray pencil line thin camo. Now seriously though, airbrush paint should not be thick in the first place, it should be milk like and will go through the airbrush at low pressure, which I use doe spraying fine camo schemes in my static.
  3. Look for shoe repair glues that are safe/meant for trainers.
  4. That is an insane price as it is only £1 in the UK. Surely you will have some kind of flexible shoe glue that you can use to repair shoes cheaply down under? Impact, contact or neoprene glue/adhesive are the terms you should search for.
  5. When you say "regular" acrylic paint, what do you mean? Tamiya X/XF? Mr hobby C? Both these (and a hand full of others) are not true acrylics and should not be used. If you are referring to Vallejo, Mig, Revell Aqua, then they will work but they are rather weak. Make sure you back them with primer followed by clear. (I am assuming you are painting from the inside. If outside, primer > finish color > clear. This is painted a mixture of acrylic paint markers, Vallejo, Revell Aqua backed with Vallejo Air Black followed by Vallejo silver primer (just what I have to hand) and then sealed with Vallejo clear. The actual head is normal PS so was primed with Mr Surfacer and finished with Mr Color C, Vallejo Game, paint markers and fineliners.
  6. Just looking at the numbers, the 15.5 Tamiya BL officially supported by the 04 ESC is a 2300 @ 1v motor, meaning it is a 16560/17020 at 7.2/7.4v. Am I missing something there? It seems far weaker tha. The RZ's 27500, putting the BL more on par to DT (17000/380) or LT (16300/565 < I am actually shocked by this high torque from this motor) motors and these are kind of meant for silver can or TT replacement with only 27t/28t giving good runtime. Do correct me if I am getting this wrong.
  7. 8.4V??? Is that 7s NiMHs territory? Or are you referring to fully charged 2s lipo? The RZ is 27500/500, so a 17.5t is not up to its performance? Or am I missing something? (let's say compare like for like and let's not being timing into the mix)
  8. Yes I had seen that "ultimate" guide, which TBH is not that ultimate. The author ended by saying he will test it with a 13.5t and never returned to update it (although he did successfully ran a 17.5t on it). Yes, the RZ is a 23t and will not work on this ESC, I know that. If I am to go down that route, I will use a 1060. Like I said, I happen to have this with a kit so am wondering if the BL it can support is better than the RZ. From TamiyaUSA, "When using Item 54611 (10.5T) with Item 45057 (TBLE-02S), it is highly recommended to install Item 45063 TFU-01 ESC Cooling Fan Unit to ESC, as ESC's overheat protection function may be activated due to excessive load.", it seems your 02 can do 10.5t? I thought the specs limit for both 02 and 04 are the same at 15.5t Tamiya or am I missing something again? I am afraid the RZ is a bit more powerful than a ST you swapped out, 18300/350 vs 27500/500 <-that's my baseline for comparison of RZ vs 15.5t/21.5t BL. A side note is there are a number of comments on various forums that Tamiya ESC should be ditched for all but the most basic blushers as they sucks (not sure if how true that is), but from a personal point, I know they will be a PITA to set up as I am somewhat colorblind and all these LED lights looks the same to me. I have to ask my wife to see if my batteries are charged or not for me.
  9. Do note there are differences between the red and blue set.
  10. If you are referring specifically to spares and not new hop ups, Ebay usually. If you are in the UK, I sometimes uses JK RC or TTM as well. TTM carry or can supply a very wide range of parts.
  11. There you go. https://tamiyabase.com/chassis/107-tt-01d
  12. I have the this chassis and have the Torque Tuned motor and it feels "just right" for the chassis although it does destroy tyres quick. It is a toss up between the Dirt Tuned, Lightly Tuned or the Torque Tuned and I just went with the cheapest. The obvious required upgrade will be bearings and a steel pinion. I went with the biggest. I didn't get on well with my universals. Maybe get yourself a heatsink as mine got pretty hot buried so deep in the chassis.
  13. It is OK for most models and stuff, might even be good for lipos as some people keep them in the fridge. I have the same setup minus the heater. BUT if you have waterbase acrylic paints, keep them from freezing. I have a WiFi thermometer that will alert me if it falls below 4C to warn me to take the paint in.
  14. I am not sure if a laugh reaction is an appropriate reaction to that or not. My biker friend once had this saying "Skin will heal but it costs money to fix damage to the bike".
  15. Accident RCing? I heard CA works equally well, in fact NHS used that instead of stitches on me before.
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