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alvinlwh

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About alvinlwh

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    Orkney, Scotland, UK

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  1. Out dragons seem to be great at picking up stuff. I got half a football field's worth of grass wrapped around my rear drive. 🤣
  2. I had been making static models for decades and (almost) all serious model makers I know of only use Tamiya tape and nothing else. They are the only one I had tried that masks cleanly and removes cleanly. If cost is a issue, only use Tamiya tape for the edges and cheaper masking tape for the "insides".
  3. There is a few "styles" of brake. "Standard" (F/B/R): From forward, move to reverse is the brake. Move back to neutral and then back to reverse for reverse movement. AKA double tap method. "Delay" (F/B/R): From forward, move to reverse is the brake. Hold it there and reverse movement will happen in a second or so. Only a few ESC works this way, like some Mtroniks for example. Racing (F/B): From forward, move to reverse is the brake. There will be no reverse movement as reverse is banned (usually) in racing. Crawler (F/R): From forward, move to neutral is the brake. If you move from forward to reverse, reverse movement will happen immediately. Not recommend as it will trash the gears fast. This is not recommended for higher speed cars as just "letting go" of the control from full speed will cause the wheels to lock up instantly. Also, I believe, leaving it in neutral means the brakes are always activated and the car will not roll on a slope.
  4. No, they usually comes together with the connector. They are slide on rather then shrink on. However I don't see why you cannot use heat shrink instead.
  5. Done that before, don't like having a chunk of plastic joining ESC to the motor and sometimes, things get strange with reversed polarity and these plugs means needing a soldering iron to swap instead of a quick unplug and swap job. So I use gold 3.5mm bullets that brushless motors use. Also makes swapping my TBLE between brushed and brushless easy although that ESC is pretty useless to start with.
  6. I think they are called 3.5mm bullet crimp connectors.
  7. I have the 1040 and it seems to me that it's brake is better than the 1060. Not sure why though. Unfortunately no lipo settings
  8. Fixed the front lower suspension arm of my Thunder Dragon. It failed in a way I had not heard about before. A8 breaking, yes. D1? Nope. Twice I took the car out for a drive and it felt "strange". First time, I was wondering how can I make a mistake like this. But when it happened a second time, I knew it was broken. The problem is the failure point is not easy to see when on the car. Postman brought me this ebay purchase and I am good to go. All good now.
  9. Yes it is indeed. 380ST. Of course driving on a football field will not help either. Thanks for the heads up! I am considering getting a Dirt Tuned for it. Tried putting in a 540ST but the motor shaft is too short. 🤷 My RZ's shaft is long enough but don't think it will be a good idea. Don't really want to risk my GT Tuned too.
  10. Took the re-engined Holiday Buggy out. It seems like this grass is too much for it as even on a 10T pinion, the motor is still burning hot.
  11. Too tired last night to sort it out but got some time after lunch today. Gears look fine and wheel turns freely once motor is removed so it is not a drivetrain problem. One motor wire actually fell off, either due to the heat or poor soldering. No matter, the motor is well and truly jammed, will not turn by hand. Pretty rusted as like I said, this is a 10+ years old motor and previously used on beach runs. Brushes are surprisingly good though, so it was not overworked. The reason for the jam and short leading to the smoke. One of the coil had came off causing a short within the motor and preventing it from turning. Put the 380ST motor back in and all is fine now.
  12. Not yet, dinner now. Will check later tonight but I bet the motor is toasted (pun intended). In fact the wheels felt hard to turn, hope it is just the motor and not the gears. I don't mind if it is just the motor as it is a 10+ years old one anyway.
  13. Took the Holiday Buggy out for a drive today. Not a good sign when this happens...
  14. Your neutral point can be anywhere (within reason) and it should still work after you had recalibrated (which you said you will do?). Unless thar ESC is that fussy about neutral that it will refuse to accept neutral even if it is just off on the trim.
  15. Normally, for beginners on budget starter cars (like TT, M, DT...), I will suggest the cheaper controllers to start out on the hobby. That way, no great lost if they decided not to proceed. Also, there is the cost to kit ratio* which can be huge especially with the more budget kits. HOWEVER, you clearly is not a beginner and is doing one of Tamiya’s latest and most expensive kit, I will say go for the more expensive ones. Even the cost ratio to the kit will not be that big (unless you go for some super top end model). *a branded radio set could cost as much as, or more than, one of the lower end kits, something that could put someone who don't know much but are thinking of starting in this hobby right off. You, however, clearly know what you are doing, so go with what you want I say. Just my thoughts.
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