Drifft Do^Urban

Where are you sourcing your drive shaft from? I have the 230mm plates and have been looking for a solution.

PS-55 Flat Clear is what you need. Spray it inside to key/prime the surface, allow it to fully cure (overnight), then your TS paint over it--just enough for color, so not too thick. PS-55 on the outside for matte finish. Alternatively, you could do PS-63 Bright Gun Metal on the inside then outside: PS-55 + TS Color + TS-80 Flat Clear. Then if any scrapes off, it looks like sheet metal underneath.

Testers are key, but getting the right custom color with PS paint isn't cheap. I had this same problem deciding on what blue to use for a Karmann Ghia. Managed to match the color of the one I had in high school, so worth it. The translucents can be finicky like smoke to get an even coat, though. So, g'luck!

Any US-sourced recommended alternatives to the Carson road tires? €31 shipping is a bit too dear. The front rib-spike tires (54896) helped heaps off-road.

Lots of how to on YouTube. RC Hobby Shed uses these exact mounts for a TT-01.

PS-6 is the closest you'll come with a single can and is kit standard: https://cdn.simba-dickie-group.de/downloads/300058655/300058655_Citroen_2CV_Charleston_Beiblatt.pdf Alternatively, you can pick up an airbrush and go with the actual color: https://www.gravitycolors.com/product/citroen-mimosa-yellow/

Plaza Japan is top notch. Multiple orders in the last few months to US and never an issue. They do restock non-discontinued items; just set up notification. If you pay by CC directly instead of via PayPal, you may get a better conversion rate and can avoid the surcharge.

RCMart will ship YR to US (here) but isn't cheap from HK. I'm fine with Tamiya parts for now till they break. For the screws, I used a ratcheting screwdriver to only get them finger tight. Most seem to hold properly on the reinforced parts, but there are a few that spin freely regardless. More are "loose" on the standard kit.

Working with Nathaneal on a 934 livery, and he asked for high resolution scans. If you want custom decals, I'd recommend either finding a proper graphic artist or high quality digital art.

Pre-ordered the CF conversion set but planning to use with the maxspeedpartsde carbon chassis set for 230mm wheelbase. Just need to source a press to shorten the prop shaft. Any must-have, sourceable hop-ups? Also, can't decide on motor.

Same. All my USA-sourced kits have been shrink wrapped: TamiyaUSA, Tower Hobbies, LHS, etc.

Finally finished my hopped up SW-01 Lunch Box. If you're going clear chassis with yellow body/gears/wheels, then I'd recommend picking up the yellow 5mm Adjusters (Part# 9803262 & 9803263) from the MudMad. You just need one of each of those part numbers, since there are 8 pieces per bag. For the stock kit, I would've preferred to pay extra for it to include the better quality reinforced parts. Everything still feels wobbly, but steering is fine when going. Would have greatly preferred normal wheel attachment instead of screws. Also, since wheelies are it's selling point, the upper arm connectors really should have been included. I need to re-find the post or video that explained how to properly set the tie-rods for steered wheelies, as 2.2mm gap for the back and 4mm front per the hop-up manual do not seem correct regardless of surface. The MudMad's rally tires drive and grip better on all surfaces. Possibly less weight, too? Bearing kit is a must and worth the extra cost (for every kit). I'll put the reinforced leftovers for joints and wheelie roller on then call it good. Overall, incredibly happy with the SW-01! Perfect speed for an enclosed space and a tumble of fun.

Translucent Red (PS37) + Gun Metal (PS23)

Nice work! Look forward to seeing how this plays out with extended use. Not being able to change wheels normally is probably my least favorite "feature" of the SW-01. And yes, there is significant wobble regardless of standard or reinforced parts.

Ahh.. thanks for the callout on wheel screws stripping. That's definitely a concern with the hop up motors. The silver can works fine but would stall out whenever in wheelie. Fixed it for the AA battery pack by remembering to turn off the low voltage protection on the TBLE-02S. I did glue the dog-bone shafts for the standard C parts as indicated in the hop-up, just in case. The Lunch Box body was a lot easier to cut out than the Mudmad, but be super careful on the back--the lexan is quite thin.