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EastWolfDownUnder

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  1. OK thanks @Rb4276... so a 22T (stock) pinion on 10.5T - the gear boxes are still in good health? I don't suppose they are the same mod size pinions as 1/10 Team Associated? I have a couple of those lying around.
  2. Hi there, I'm trawling through this massive thread trying to find info on brushless & pinions. The above is helpful but can I ask.... is this while maintaining the stock 22T pinion? I am planning on using the Egress on smooth sealed surfaces - she won't ever hit the race track or dirt. Initially I will do the standard RZ brushed setup and then I'll move to brushless... can I just use 22T across all applications? I have other stuff for jumps and crazy stuff.... just want a beautiful car park runner.
  3. Thanks for the advice. I've replaced all photos with embedded ones from new hosting account at Imgur. Appreciate the tip
  4. In summary on the CVA shocks Buy 2 boxes of them = 4 corners I used the short eyelets + 1x spacer to get even ride height front and back ride height is slightly lower than stock, which I like as the front has less positive camber. Green slime and shock pliers are your friends. On brushless 17.5T sensored motor is smooth as however not much faster, if any, than stock silver can. You will have the benefit of LVC on the ESC using Lipos Mind the orientation of the motor to avoid contact with other parts upon shock compression. Hope this helped anyone considering CVA shocks or a brushless motor install
  5. I want to share what shock pliers look like. An amazing investment and you can find knock offs on ebay or aliexpress.
  6. So, I've now managed to get an image hosting account... here's my first shot..... Use the shock shaft to get those O-rings in there. Green slime FTW This shows.... between the LB standard box parts + the 50520 CVA kit you will just have sufficient parts to get the shocks mounted. So no need to buy additional parts. Primed up For those who are thinking of a shorty lipo... A standard one (25mm in height) seems to nicely wedge itself in this area. Yes, I'm tight, but I don't want to buy a specialist lipo that I'll used so sparingly - below
  7. Below is the toe-out that I am trialing. Initial thoughts.... I'll pull it back to a little more neutral: while the turning circle is amazing, it's not that stable in a straight line. Meanwhile I have primed and painted (several layers) of TS-47. Somehow it's harder to paint yellow on a white lid, than black on the black (edition one).
  8. I have shortened the steering rods on L & R to get some toe-out to combat the horrendous turning circle I remember. For some reason it now says that I can only upload 4.88MB in total. Not sure if this is game over.... in total I have >50mb allowance remaining. What gives. Oh well, if this is all the photos I'm allowed then this isn't going to be a very good build thread. @DeadMeat666 Thanks for the heads up and good to know about the tranny. I have actually dialed some negative expo curve on my Sanwa radio to given the trans an easier life, but still enough pep to allow wheelies on demand. I have other toys for jumps and wheelies. This is just a fun nostalgic toy.
  9. Below shows that the short eyelet + limiter is marginally shorter than the stock pogo sticks which is ideal for me so I can lessen that horrible positive camber in the front. I have to say that I like the shiny look of the pogo's but I cannot live with their mechanics.
  10. Here is the stock set up including the pogo stick shocks. After these are mounted I can get a better idea of what shocks to make the 50520 CVA's into. Internet suggests that you do 75/85mm front/rear so I'll start with that. The instructions are less than average. You need to buy 2x kits (pairs) and they come with "soft" and "firm" springs. I found the firm ones are fractionally longer so I am using them. I am not holding any high hopes that this thing will have great handling. The only thing you can be certain of, is that it won't be worse than stock. The poor handling of this track is the whole character of the thing... with all the weight of the motor on the rear axle, you're never going to get plush travel in the rear. The 50520 kit comes with 2 lengths of eyelets and some shock limiters that you install on the shock shaft. It's the black plastic cylinder you see at the end of the shock shaft in the next pic with the Green Slime. BTW, the slime helps the O-rings stay in place a little better. Shock pliers are an awesome investment to prevent scratching the shafts too.
  11. Hi all, nothing special about this build but I am keen to share my experience with the 505210 CVA shocks and my thoughts om them and the ideal eyelets to get the ideal ride height. Basic assembly done.. nothing special. In photo #1 I have decided to ignore the instructions and keep that retaining screw in there. It may actually prevent the trans from slapping when hitting the gas. I am aware of the ampro chassis brace or 5th shock mod but in no great rush to do either. I had this kit a couple years ago in a Black Edition colourway with 100% stock set up. TLDR: 17.5 brushless is about the same speed. I didn't want to do anything too crazy, fearing that the 1987 gearbox may not handle it. Caution on the placement and rotation of the motor. the next increment anti-clockwise makes the wires hit the shock. A clockwise increment makes the wires hit the chassis. Below. I've chosen XT60 connectors as I'm familiar with XT90's on my other stuff and I am going to run this with my 2S shorty Lipo's via an adapter that I will make. The 3 motor wires go nicely through the rear parcel tray. The ESC is a Hobbywing Xerun 2.1 (Justock) - it belonged to my first indoor offroad 1/10 buggy and has since been superseded.
  12. Thanks guys. Much appreciated. I will post my build when started in the builds section
  13. I've got this old Hobbywing Xerun that's a few years old and last used it 1.5 years ago for mod indoor buggy racing 10.5.... fast forward and I've put it into my Lunch Box with a 17.5 sensored motor and I want to have reverse reinstated. I have no program card... I know how to program my bigger Max6 no problem. This thing just goes beyond calibration mode and keeps flashing red with no other noises. Can someone please help? Has anyone had this issue? I'm not getting those wonderful beeps
  14. Hi Guys, I've ordered one of these to use with my RZ motor and 2S Lipo (Egress). Does anyone know if these have a LVC built in? How do you know how much run time to have on these? I am new to Brushed/Tamiya stuff.... back in my day, I ran NiCad batts until they just went flat hahaha. Thanks in advance
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