EastWolfDownUnder

Thanks Snappy1. Yes - running standard buggy tyres from my Associated 4wd on astroturf indoors. I will start my shopping. +1/2 teeth is only a 4.5/10% gain. which the motor should tolerate and let me keep up with everyone else - I'll try get it going for this Saturday and post some feedback. Cheers

Hi all. I race my Egress in my club's "Vintage" Class which allows pre-95 models restricted to 2s Lipo, with the motor of choice being Kyosho G2X (20T) - we are NOT permitted brushless. Does anyone know a) what the current/stock pinion spec is? 22T? what pitch? b) how big of a pinion can I have with this brushed setup? [teeth and pitch please] The other vintage cars are burning me off down the straights by several car lengths. I'm a noob to the tamiya world, not so much for buggy racing. Thanks

Pretty cool paint job. I forgot how high it's supposed to sit off the ground. A real off roader, I guess.

I've now finished the build. But here are the photos of the steps. Goodness - it was not an easy build. But, nonetheless, I can see why people find it a pleasure to work on. Per the instructions, I left some (blue) sticky tape on the front diff box to hold a little axle in place. To this point, I don't know if I can remove it. My choice of motor is the RZ Tamiya can. I thought to myself that it would be a little irresponsible to put a modern brushless set up in a 1987 rig. ESC is the usual brushed lipo/nimh one from Tamiya. I have a clone Sanwa Rx and 21kg high speed servo from Banggood.com called a JX servo Ecoboost. I thoroughly recommend them as bang for buck servos. I use them for both racing and bashing and have yet to have one fail me. The servo cable is pulled and looped around a screw driver in case anyone doesn't know the trick. Trimming this body was not a pleasure. Rubber: Proline Shadows from amain.com with some tyre foam, drying in the sun Wheels: Schumacher 1/10 4wd Minimal decals. Wing plates are reversed, because I just love that look. Black strip on the back edge of the wing and leading edges of each wing plate. For some reason when I came to install the plates, I did not have an appropriate set of nuts and bolts. Weird. had to buy some, which leads me to believe that I've f...d up some part of the build. Tamiya wouldn't forget any screws would they? Note that the windows are not decals. I proudly masked out my own using painters tape. Came out nicely without any paint bleed. Paint is PS48 anodized aluminium semi gloss silver. x4 layers & PS5 x 3 layers. In retrospect I should have done more layers of PS48 as there are some patches that were a little sparse if you know what you're looking for. Verdict: RZ motor I can foresee becoming a little too mundane. Tyres are fun and have just enough traction on polished concrete carparks. Asphalt will be more solid grip. Suspension is pretty much useless after I put limiters on each shock shaft. I never planned this things to be used off road anyway. It was always intended for smooth roads. Running a 2S 65c 2000mah lipo as I couldn't find anything else at my LHS that would fit. The battery compartment area is odd, as you have to navigate the pillars between the upper and lower carbon decks. When I eventually get bored of this, I'll likely stick in a 10.5 brushless system.

Hi All. This is my first Tamiya buggy that I've built. (not incl the Lunch Box I just finished). The instructions are a little challenging.... My only other comparables of late would be Team Assoc B6.2 & B74.1. Comparatively, these were both much clearer, but I acknowledge that they probably have more R&D go into the manual productions. Warning: BTW this will be the slowest build ever given work from home/lockdown/child in my country. Now it's Nov/21. I decided on shocks first, as I'm waiting for bearing upgrades to arrive, and my girl will probably touch stuff if I leave parts lying around. I am also using this as a diary for my own documentation purposes. I have just received a titanium hex screw kit and awaiting rubber shielded bearings. Electrics will be Tamiya RZ brushed and Hobbywing ESC on 2S Lipo, JX Ecoboost servo, Sanwa Rx, Clay wheels to run on sealed surfaces only. Shock piston per kit: 3 holes. Possibly use thicker fluid per AE74.1 Shocks done. Not sure what this little black thing is about on the X & Y parts tree, but I'll likely use it for limiting shock travel and lowering my car. BTW The plastic collars are held in by a self taping screw that can only go in one direction. They are supposed to be some 5mm from the shock cap but as I said, I'll be lowering the car to suit me later.... I'll fiddle around with ride height before filling with slightly thicker oil by using plastic/nylon limiters inside the shaft. I wonder if there is such a thing as "too thick" shock oil for this kit? I don't want them to leak.

BTW I have now moved the timing on the end bell of the motor to 40degs, ESC programmed to have a little boost and timing added and it's about as fast as I'd want to comfortably push a 2s 1/12 machine that handles like a marshmallow. No idea how fast it goes, I will mount my go pro to it to do speed test as summer nears here. =)

OK thanks @Rb4276... so a 22T (stock) pinion on 10.5T - the gear boxes are still in good health? I don't suppose they are the same mod size pinions as 1/10 Team Associated? I have a couple of those lying around.

Hi there, I'm trawling through this massive thread trying to find info on brushless & pinions. The above is helpful but can I ask.... is this while maintaining the stock 22T pinion? I am planning on using the Egress on smooth sealed surfaces - she won't ever hit the race track or dirt. Initially I will do the standard RZ brushed setup and then I'll move to brushless... can I just use 22T across all applications? I have other stuff for jumps and crazy stuff.... just want a beautiful car park runner.

Thanks for the advice. I've replaced all photos with embedded ones from new hosting account at Imgur. Appreciate the tip

In summary on the CVA shocks Buy 2 boxes of them = 4 corners I used the short eyelets + 1x spacer to get even ride height front and back ride height is slightly lower than stock, which I like as the front has less positive camber. Green slime and shock pliers are your friends. On brushless 17.5T sensored motor is smooth as however not much faster, if any, than stock silver can. You will have the benefit of LVC on the ESC using Lipos Mind the orientation of the motor to avoid contact with other parts upon shock compression. Hope this helped anyone considering CVA shocks or a brushless motor install

I want to share what shock pliers look like. An amazing investment and you can find knock offs on ebay or aliexpress.

So, I've now managed to get an image hosting account... here's my first shot..... Use the shock shaft to get those O-rings in there. Green slime FTW This shows.... between the LB standard box parts + the 50520 CVA kit you will just have sufficient parts to get the shocks mounted. So no need to buy additional parts. Primed up For those who are thinking of a shorty lipo... A standard one (25mm in height) seems to nicely wedge itself in this area. Yes, I'm tight, but I don't want to buy a specialist lipo that I'll used so sparingly - below

Below is the toe-out that I am trialing. Initial thoughts.... I'll pull it back to a little more neutral: while the turning circle is amazing, it's not that stable in a straight line. Meanwhile I have primed and painted (several layers) of TS-47. Somehow it's harder to paint yellow on a white lid, than black on the black (edition one).

I have shortened the steering rods on L & R to get some toe-out to combat the horrendous turning circle I remember. For some reason it now says that I can only upload 4.88MB in total. Not sure if this is game over.... in total I have >50mb allowance remaining. What gives. Oh well, if this is all the photos I'm allowed then this isn't going to be a very good build thread. @DeadMeat666 Thanks for the heads up and good to know about the tranny. I have actually dialed some negative expo curve on my Sanwa radio to given the trans an easier life, but still enough pep to allow wheelies on demand. I have other toys for jumps and wheelies. This is just a fun nostalgic toy.

Below shows that the short eyelet + limiter is marginally shorter than the stock pogo sticks which is ideal for me so I can lessen that horrible positive camber in the front. I have to say that I like the shiny look of the pogo's but I cannot live with their mechanics.