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About hIghQ

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  • Birthday 09/06/1975

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    RC Racing (On- and Off-Road)

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  1. Yes, 8.4V are 2S LiPos at full charge. Sorry, personally I have left NiCd and NiMH so far behind, I don't think in these categories any more. Just like brushed systems. I really don't understand this hesistance many people sho towards these more modern (and IMHO far better technologies), as they have been around for many years and are by now proven beyond a doubt. I can understand the price argument - up to a point. From people who struggle to get this hobby going, yes, but not from people who make enough to buy dozens and dozes of car kits. Also the fear of Lipos is often far more irrational than the respect and diligence they are certainly owed could explain. But digress once again. Those 27500 RPM are with no load, so it will never go that high while powering the car. The BL system will come much closer to it's stated RPMs (which is kv ratings between 2250 and 2800). Again, yes brushless has fewer RPMs for comparable winds, but much higher torque,so you have to gear it differently. If you don't, then it's probably going to e slower, but that would be user error, not systematic BL failure. Why do you worry so much? Worst case, that Tamiya ESC really cannot handle a 17.5T or hotter motor form another manfacturer (unlikely, but not impossible) and burns out. Then you'd be out 20€ for that ESC. An excellent BL blinky ESC from Hobbywing could be had for about 60€ one that supports much hotter BL motors
  2. I see. Didn't know that. But TurnipJF was right, everything except the tires is (highly) useful for racing as well
  3. My guess would be not very much, I'm afraid. It seems to be a 25 year old car, not really in mint condition and I doubt there's any collector's value to it...
  4. I didn't even know there was a drift version of the TT-01... are you sure you don't mean the TT-02D?
  5. A 17.5T BL motor will end up somewhere around 19-23000 RPM (on 8.4V) depending on design, quality and (static) timing, but it will have quite a bit more torque, so with the correct gearing, would be faster than a brushed motor with higher RPM. Plus, once again, maintenance free and more efficient (=longer run time). Generally, I vastly prefer BL over brushed (with very few exceptions, e.g. crawlers, tanks or semi-trucks/lorries).
  6. With salt water if you don't clean and oil the bearings quickly, they can be ruined after a single battery - which is a bit more wear and tear than normal, IMO. Actually I have never seen or heard of any 15.5T motor before. Usually brushless motors are available as 25.5T, 21.5T, 17.5T, 13.5T, 10.5T - with no steps in between (usually). Below 10.5T there are often even half-turn steps available (e.g. 7.5T, 7.0T, 6.5T, 6.0T, etc.) "Very wide pinion range"... well that obviously depends on what you are used to. My Xray touring cars (I know, different price class), for example, have a range of about 20 teeth - on pinion alone, without even changing the spur gear. With changing both spur and pinions combined, it allows for final gear ratios between 3.x and 9.x. But generally a couple of teeth on the pinion alone doesn't change all that much (on any car). On the TT-02 for example, the pinion range goes from 16T to 25T, which results in FDRs between 11.38 and 7.28 - which could be considered a wide range as well - but it's not a useful range. Even with modified motors (4.5T) and boosted ESCs, racers usually don't gear shorter than 8.x, but in stock classes (17.5T or slower) 7.x would result in a very slow car. Unless you can get at least close to an FDR of about 5.x a 17.5T BL may feel quite slow (since RPMs aren't all that high and the available torque isn't used in such a short gearing).
  7. For pure aesthetics and realism, I think rubber tires would probably look better than foams (not saying this doesn't look nice!). Driving is another story though...
  8. @alvinlwh I wasn't only thinking about electronics with the salt water. Also take good care of your bearings as even the tiniest bit of corrosion in them will make them useless. But as you said, enough of the beach car. Ok, had a look at the TBLE-04S. The given turn-limits are somewhat strange, as it seems to have a max. continuous current of 75A (for comparison, the Hobbywing Justock G3 has only 60A, but is rated for up to 10.5T with that), so this seems ultra-conservative. It should definitely be able to at least handle a good 17.5T BL motor - which is a common motor for today's stock racing classes. Given that BL motors are stronger and more efficient, you could probably get more power and longer run times. If - and that's where others have to chime in - if the gearing on that car can be adapted far enough to make use of the different torque/RPM ratio of BL systems.
  9. Wow, that stirs some memories... I fell in love with and bought a TRF TA-03RS (some David Jun edition, I believe), back in 2000 or 2001 or so, and then I also got all the parts to get it to full length. Gee, how much money I dropped into that car... (only to discover that it didn't perform all that well on the track) but that way it somewhat cured me of the Tamiya virus. Didn't buy another Tamiya for racing purposes until the M-07 came out.
  10. Brushless motors usually have quite a bit more torque, but less RPM compared to similar winds on brushed motors, so they can (and should) be geared longer. Also they are usually more efficient and basically maintenance free. But where BL systems really shine is, when you use ESCs with variable timing (i.e. boost/turbo settings instead of the 0-Boost/"blinky" mode only). These ESCs are of course more expensive than the basic "blinky" only models, however all that goodness requires a sensored system. Now, if you want waterproof (just to make sure, you want that for cleaning with clear water, not because you intend the car to come into contact with salt water, right? 'Cause you wouldn't enjoy what this would do to your car...), you should probably stay away from sensored BL systems, as the sensors on the motors aren't easily waterproofed (if it can be done at all). That leaves sensorless BL systems and good old brushed. For me as a racer / track-only guy, brushless plus sensorless equals useless - but of course this does not apply for bashing (on a beach or elsewhere). Brushless systems will usually be more expensive than brushed, but they have no springs and (who would have guessed?) no brushes for sand to mess or get stuck with, so I think brushless may have a slight advantage there... In the end, as usual, there is no single perfect solution. Brushed is the simplest and cheapest. Sensorless BL is maintenance free and more powerful, but not as versatile (no variable timing possible) and not as smooth (low speed cogging) as the far more expensive sensored BL systems (that cannot be really 100% water proofed) would be...
  11. I agree, I would not put more money into that. Use it as it is, and if your little lad is really into it, go and get a "proper" kit (and maybe one for yourself as well). Tamiya has so many cool kits that would absolutely delight the little fella (while yes, more expensive than 34 quid, but still reasonably priced, IMO.) You two could build it together (if he doesn't get bored). Doesn't have to be anything fancy (so not talking Avante or Egress kind of money).
  12. @Toad16v Unless you are racing (or at least driving on a proper RC track), adjustable camber is not needed. So, if you actually do plan to visit a track (at least semi-regularly, not just once a year for 2 hours or so), then yes, it's certainly worthwhile, as camber is a major setup option for this kind of driving. However, if you just bash it across a parking lot or in front of your house, I'd use that money for something more useful.
  13. That's your favorite? What about the (in)famous Mitsubishi SUV, the "Pajero". Go ahead and look what that means in Spanish... No wonder, it was marketed under a different name in Spain (and apparently for some reason under yet another name in the UK...)
  14. AFAIK Tamiya uses metric only, so M3.
  15. Sorry, got no experience in using them after tapping screws.
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