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About hIghQ

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  • Birthday 09/06/1975

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    RC Racing (On- and Off-Road)

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  1. @alvinlwh Just went for the first post from me that I could find on the matter (from October 17th): I'm sure both me and others posted more on this very subject here on TC within the last months, even that the required gearing changes can be rather large. But you seem to be so stuck in your own ways and already so biased against brushless, it sometimes seems like you're just hoping and waiting for BL to fail on you. So yes, a good BL motor, properly set up is in fact really vastly superior to a brushed motor. However it's not a simple "drop in and start driving" thing (as was mentioned several times here on TC), but if you never really read all that, then yes, disappointment in the BL's performance is pretty much guaranteed. As I may have mentioned once or twice before , I am an active racer, and I do race both in stock and in open modified classes as well. But I do not own a 4.5T motor (or lower) any more - for a reason. It's just too much power for me. I do own (and run) 5.5T and 6.5T, and yes those 1-2 turns indeed make a noticeable difference. As an example for how quick a 17.5T can be, watch this: (By the way, in the this class in the ETS racing series, people are restricted to handout, fixed-endbell-timing motors (not even a top of the line model), the ESC are zero-timing (="blinky") and even have an RPM limiter, and lastly, the FDR is also limited. So this is by no means the maximum you can get out of a 17.5T BL, but it's not slow or disappointing in my eyes...
  2. I remember telling you myself. Especially about the gearing...
  3. Let me guess, despite everything you've been told earlier, you just took a brushed motor out of a car (that was probably designed with only brushed motors in mind, so likely doesn't offer the necessary effective gearing range for a BL system), simply dropped in some random brushless motor and found it slower? Not really surprising, as brushless motors with comparable turns usually have lower RPM numbers than brushed. But they do have more torque. A lot more. And that's where gearing comes into play. If you don't adjust that sufficiently (i.e. not just by some decimals of the FDR, but major adjustments) you'll end up with a slower car. And we haven't even started talking about dynamic timing at this point, which in itself will unlock so much power and RPM on a BL system, that upon activation, it will feel like the car has shifted into a higher gear. But you actually need to do all that to get a BL system to really shine, which I bet you didn't.
  4. Spinning wheels without throttle input? I have never seen this happen with an ESC, as they should immediately go to neutral when not getting a signal from the receiver. To me an emergency is more like something went wrong with the battery or wiring and there's smoke or a short-circuit, etc. happening. In these cases a switch is rather useless. Plus on the cars I own, I can either reach both the switch and the battery cable with the body still attached (e.g. touring car, short course truck, etc.) or neither of them (e.g. buggies - but these are just velcro'd on most racing buggies). Also if something goes wrong with your car while you're up on the drivers' stand and a marshal has to save your car, he'll easily find your battery and where to unplug it, while your little switch could be located just about anywhere, but I know that's racing...
  5. Especially in an emergency I'd want to unplug the battery instead of using a switch.
  6. A 4.5T BL motor... boy, are you in for a surprise. What car do you plan using this in? 4.5T is serious power and could probably shred most non TRF Tamiya drivetrains into pieces...
  7. Gearing really depends on three things: the type of vehicle you're driving, the motor you're using and the track/area you're driving on. On-Road cars usually have much lower FDRs than Off-Road cars (and buggies are again different from trucks). Different tire sizes and driving techniques (On-Road is a lot smoother on the throttle and gears than Off-Road) are the main difference here. Usually Off-Road cars already have a slightly higher internal drive ratio, so that even with the same pinion/spur combo you'll get a higher FDR number. Motors should generally just be geared so they don't overheat; and for tracks you need to find a good balance between straight/long sweeping corners and technical sections in the infield, ideally you don't want to lose much ground in either section. Largest pinions I regularly use in On-Road (64dp) are in the 45t-50t range (17.5T BL motor) while in Off-Road (48dp) it's around 18t-23t (5.5T-6.5T BL motors). Speed runners use the most extreme FDRs, but they can usually only do one or two passes after which their motors can already start to overheat.
  8. I have gone with M-chassis. I'm not interested in some (most?) of the listed categories, and on those that I'm actually interested in, I mostly prefer other manufacturers by now. But M-Chassis is still pure Tamiya to me. EDIT: Overall touring cars are my most favorite type of RC car, followed by pan cars (i.e. F1, Group C kind of chassis), buggy, etc. It's just that I personally would no longer consider buying a Tamiya for any of these. That leaves M-Chassis in this poll.
  9. hIghQ


    I'd go even further, when you own / plan a business and you actually do qualify for some form of EU subsidies, you'd be stupid not to apply for or accept these. And if your business idea, etc, is good enough and you bring employment to a less well developed region (Slovakia is not the wealthiest country in Europe) so that you actually qualify, I would also not hide the fact that the EU sees my company as "good enough" for their programs as well. Perhaps even brag about it, yes. Depends on how exactly it was presented / worded. There's enough people skeptical about anything concerning the EU (see for the example the UK and the lies of Brexiteers like Mr. Nigel Farrage Mr. Boris Johnson), or like in America, people skeptical of anything the government does with taxes, except (over-)funding the military (i.e. Republicans), who have a biased, negative attitude towards the EU, subsidies, or both. Personally, I have never met either Juraj or Martin Hudy, so I cannot really comment on them as people, but I do not really like Xray (or Hudy) as a companies all that much. However, I do like (and have had good experiences with) both companies' products (except for the - sometimes insane - prices.
  10. hIghQ


    Can you show me where they did that? I'd really be interested in seeing this...
  11. hIghQ


    True. All of it. The thread over there also showed that some people will sell their integrity for a sponsorship deal. That communication was a disaster.
  12. hIghQ


    We're really getting off-topic here, I fear... Well, since I have to admit I have not read all Tamiya threads on RCtech entirely, because the cars never really interested me all that much. But I never personally perceived anything I'd call "hate". Like I said, the stories about the X4 do vary a lot. Some claim that it got damaged after only a slight tap (some apparently with videos, showing that it was quite a bit harder than just that), while others have apparently had hard crashes where actually nothing unexpected happened to the car. So which are true? Both? None? Who knows? Also, not all of the posters actually own an X4 themselves. Quite a few were about "I saw a friend's X4 do this"... and this is the internet, these stories may be true, or may just be trolling because they don't like Xray over all, or were upset that they could no t afford an X4 and felt they had to bad-mouth it (yes, idiotic stuff like this does happen on the internet). So, considering how popular Xray is and therefore their sales numbers probably are, for a car as hyped as the X4, I still consider the amount of complaints too small to accept it as undisputed proof of fault of the product. Mind, I'm not one of those fanboys that automatically claim that since it's an Xray, by default nothing could possibly wrong with it (I know, there's enough of those people on RCtech, too). Yes, pricing is the point I actually do dislike about Xray, for both kits and parts. But after all, they design and produce in Europe instead of China and their product presentations (while yes, being marketing, are also very informative and detailed - no other manufacturers seems to even really try when compared), with very good manuals (which include many additional infos that no other manufacturer has in their manuals), plus all their videos (and no, I'm not talking about the stupid hype-building pre-release crap, but the detailed Tech Tips and Build videos they do with Alex Hagberg, integrated as QR-codes into their manuals now as well)... all that costs money. So to be fair... yes, unfortunately, they are extremely expensive. But IMO, they do give their customers quite a few things, others don't. Whether that's worth the premium is everyone's personal decision. Oh and the material being CFF is not the only thing about this suspension making it better that the T4's. I have both, and I believe I know how to build cars properly. The X4's suspension is so... "smooth" that I was really stunned after I had built it. Again, I'm not claiming that it's better than what Mugen or Awesomatix do, but I do think it an improvement over the T4 (or any other standard design). So, after I was a little disappointed with Xray for minimal to no change/innovation for years (T4 '15-'19) I can see why people think the same way about this new Tamiya. And to me that's just a realistic perspective, not hating on the company or the car.
  13. It doesn't have to be the combination or any part in general. Maybe it's really just your transmitter (not the general make and model, but the very one you hold in your hands) that has a little defect, not keeping a clean neutral any more... What works a million times can fail on the 1,000,001st try.
  14. Hmm let's see, regrets in RC... not too many, at least not recently. But around 20 years ago, when I started to get into racing, I didn't quite listen to people with more experience and spent my money not very wisely. So I ended up paying not only once, but usually twice or even three times until I had something I was pleased with. Today I'm buying high-end stuff pretty much exclusively, not because I'm a good enough driver that I actually need it, but for the peace of mind, that whatever happens, it is not because I skimped on my equipment again.
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