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OoALEJOoO

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About OoALEJOoO

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  1. @skom25 Sorry to hear about the accident. Will surely make a fun anecdote for the future . That's the great thing about the TT-02 even the chassis is low-cost to replace. Looks like you could get a lot of extra life out of your Dual Blocks if you flip each tire before you punch a hole through the rubber (given only the inner half is worn, especially the rear).
  2. Interesting info about leaky o-rings, are you referring to blue o-rings (42359) or the blue x-rings (42214, 42215)?
  3. I think I've only seen leaking through the o-ring. A couple of times I've seen the area around the cap a little bit wet, but I attribute that to not 100% cleaning after the bladder overflow during assembly, then the small amount of leftover oil in the threads getting out. There is the option to going one notch higher upgrading to TRF X-Rings, 42214 50-duro and 42215 70-duro (not sure if Tamiya makes them in other hardness). I've read people say they are better than red o-rings but I've never tried them. I assume 70-duro is for hot weather, 50-duro for cold.
  4. @TamiyaD I've also found plastic CVAs quite inconsistent, some leak the next day after just being built and by just sitting on the bench, others last a few months running without leaking. The interesting bit is the ones that do leak, it looks like a significant leak from the outside, but once you get them open, the oil level is nearly full. For running casually, I doubt a tiny amount of air creates much damping difference. A good alternative that is in-between CVA quality and TRF are 53155 Low-Friction dampers. They would fit your FF-03. They have an aluminum body, plastic rod centralizers, and the rest of plastic parts are akin to CVAs. An alternative to reduce leaking is to run a thicker oil coupled with pistons with more holes, this way the same dampening is maintained. Note that the spring stiffness is part of what dictates how much dampening you need, so having a lot of dampening on soft springs is not good. In this cases you can still run thick oil, but you'll have to drill a pair of small holes to the 3-hole piston (or widen the existing holes). I'm not very fond of Yeah Racing's aluminum shocks, the ones I have leak a lot. Switching to Tamiya o-rings does make a significant improvement. The nice part about the YR sets is that they come with a huge amount of nice pistons that, while not on the level of TRF, they are much nicer than the ones included in CVA kits. I have used these spare YR pistons to upgrade my CVA and Low-Friction dampers.
  5. Regarding the center diff, I have built a XV-02Pro and a XV-02RS Pro both with center diff and the cars are fantastic both on and off road. Not sure if I'll get an XM-01 but if I do, I think there is a low-cost alternative to buying an oil diff for the center: instead buy the TT-02 diffs (51004 + diff cups 54477) for the rear and use the kit's rear for the center (you still need to buy the spur 22050 for the center diff). This should give sufficient performance given the rear diffs are usually run looser. I am assuming 51004 would fit the XV-02 given the TT-02 and XV-02 diffs are cross-compatible (maybe someone can verify this).
  6. Welcome to the fun & never-ending world of TT-02 tweaking As @Aerobert mentioned I have extensively played with TT-01 and TT-02 on-road RWD conversion and they work wonderfully. Flipped front one-way helps with 4WD braking at the expense of cornering stability. Alternatively, just stiffening or locking a free-wheeling front diff does not help on braking (still RWD) but makes the car very stable in cornering. A simpler third option is just disconnecting the front drivetrain -this is the worst of both worlds, although still much more drivable than say a M-06 which is designed to be RWD! Transferring that to off-road might be a different matter though. Loose surfaces favor loose front diffs to prevent mid-corner understeer and perhaps even combat general on-power oversteer if the surface is not too loose. This makes me think that perhaps the flipped one-way is best here as it will help with braking. Just disconnecting the front drivetrain is not a bad thing to try for starters. If you decide to keep the front diff, make sure you plug the opening towards the prop-shaft. A plastic bearing with tape on its hole works great. This is what makes the TT-02/B platform such a great model. You can really experiment all sorts of things quickly and with minimal cost. Give it a try and let us know how it goes!
  7. @skom25 A few years back I stopped using my cars on mud or wet areas, except for 2 old cars which are specifically dedicated to being beaten without remorse. For me it's not worth the hassle since I also don't have a shop or garage. Ruining on dry surfaces (even if its dirt, gravel, weedy, etc) is 95% of the fun with only 5% of the wear/tear/maintenance/cost. If I have free time and its wet outside, I stay indoors and tinker with the cars instead. Given the TT-02B is a low-cost car. It sounds like a good idea to swap the nice parts to a touring TT-02.
  8. I understand respect is a rule on this forum that all members need to abide to, this is not related to authority. Sir/madam, I hope it is ok that I disagree with a moderator. Offensive language is disrespectful, and this is why I agree with and understand people that are pointing to @Nicadraus for this. The part that I am surprised to see is that most people think that @Yoshimitsu is ok to hijack a thread, many times already, and without any sign of trying to mend things for the sake of having a peaceful forum. Let's all be a bit more generous and humbler with one another. It's best to help each other out instead of seeking clashes.
  9. Indeed, it is quite a bit of drama over a just few posts. However, we can't be 100% one-sided. The RC Gallery (absolutely no words pics only) thread is one of the main stays on this forum and if we don't respect its rules, it will soon go into disarray and degrade into being just another thread where people post random stuff. We already have many of those, why ruin one of the most unique threads on this forum? If this forum is to remain a friendly place, well people need to remember to be friendly, and that includes avoid posting wrong stuff on the wrong thread. I for one also kindly ask @Yoshimitsu to please edit the posts. I also don't appreciate having words on our picture thread. It should take 10 seconds to edit it. I don't see any harm in @Nicadraus giving us a reminder but agree it's best to tone down the language .
  10. Re-using parts is never a bad idea. The part I'm a bit surprised is how quickly you got issues on your TT-02B. I'll admit I've only run my TT-02B on concrete and bumpy asphalt roads, never on dirt, and have had zero issues. However, I've used and abused many of my TT-02 rally cars on dirt and nasty surfaces and the only issue I've had is a broken upright and shock tower (my fault from a very nasty crash). Other than that, bearings are showing no signs of issues (seldom run wet, never on the beach), motors also with no apparent wear (silvercan and torque-tuned). Ball connectors are not worn, but I use dust covers. The only thing that really wears is tires. Can you provide more details on the issues you are having with your TT-02B, maybe we can help out.
  11. @Pylon80 Plaza Japan has just re-stocked 53163 and 53440
  12. Unfortunately, our hobby has many health hazards and given we are here for the long-haul (decades in the hobby) it is important we take steps to minimize exposure. A single dose/exposure is harmless, but getting exposed to spray paint, grease, AG threadlock (with its delicious smell), glue, tire particles, etc over the years could have consequences. A lot of stuff gets absorbed through skin, other stuff through your lungs. Blowing air to clean dirty components is one of the often-overlooked hazards on a workshop. You can breathe very nasty stuff when small particles are blown at close proximity. Thankfully, in RC we don't often have to air-blow oils & liquids as these are particularly bad since they atomize easily and will get to your lungs. I would think air-blowing tire dust is something that is best to avoid as there is a chance it will get into your lungs either right away or later as the dust will settle somewhere in your work area (or worst where your kids play, etc). For me, anything that blows air at relatively high pressure is a no-no. Using vacuum beats a blower every time, provided your vacuum does have an appropriate filter. As @Twinfan mentioned, an easy & safe way to clear tire dust & dust in general is with a brush and pushing the dust towards a bag or bin. Ideally you can wear a mask, but I don't think that is necessary if you avoid dust to go all over the place. I use a combination of a rag, brush and an air hand pump (low pressure which only removes large particles) to clean my cars. Air hand pumps are generally sold in kits to clean camera lenses. Good for cleaning and doubling as a stress ball .
  13. Indeed bracing proved to work quite well. Two plastic beams entered the Unimog cabin from its back and were then fastened with two screws each side. Mode info: G6-01TR Mercedes Unimog 406 Build
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