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  1. Hi folks! @Willy iine made me aware of this thread, great place to share some shots of Tamiya drivers! First off my Dual Rider figure, I don't think there is an official name for this figure but I call him Takayuki, since the figure was designed by Takayuki Yamazaki: Hannu Mikkola and Arne Hertz, Ford Escort Mk2 (MF01X chassis): Justin Bell driving the 1995 JTCC Opel Vectra #86 (FF03 chassis): Kazuyoshi "The Fasterst Man in Japan" Hoshino, driving the Nissan R390 GT1 #23 from the 1997 24Hrs of Le Mans (TT02 chassis): Not exactly a driver, Paddock Girl next to the 1/24 Tamiya static model: Manuel Reuter, 1994 Opel Calibra DTM (work-in-progress): Toyota Land Cruiser 40, CC01: A pair of Sand Scorchers (I regret selling the green one!): Mr Albert Attaboy driving his Monster Beetle: No introductions needed, Barbie and Ken (TT01E): Son Gohan and Piccolo searching for the Dragon Balls on their CC01 Land Freeder:
  2. I find the FF03 fantastic for casual parking lot racing and have heard it is great for club racing. As far as bashing, being FWD it's less agile than the 4WD/RWD cars since you can't do a quick tail-flip by braking & turning fast. You can tail-flip but doing it the Scandinavian way (opposite, then hard turn) which requires planning and is very satisfying to do correctly. Sometimes you can find them slightly more expensive than a TT02 and is by far more tunable out-of-the-box, plus comes with CVA shocks, ball bearings and an Aluminium motor plate. IMO a great choice if you already have several 4WD/RWD and are looking for something different.
  3. I might get one, paint it black instead of blue, and call it a Tamiya Wasp. Quick photo-edit below: Thank you Tamiya for going back to the fantastic box art, instead of the insipid photos of newer models!
  4. I would take a two-step approach. Let them drive only something that is harder to break and suitable for their age. I also have kids and many of my models are strictly off-limits. Make them participate not only in breaking the cars but also in fixing them, specially if they are old enough to use a screw driver. Dads love to fix stuff, but kids will be more mindful and careful next time if they are the ones doing the fixing. Plus it will teach them plenty of hands-on skills.
  5. @ThunderDragonCy and @Pylon80 thanks for the input These should do the trick. Edit: The 3 pairs contained are labeled soft, medium and stiff. Are all 3 on the softer side or indeed only one pair is soft? Trying to decide whether I can get away with only buying 1 set. Thanks!
  6. I recently got an FF03 chassis and this was a wonderful experience, being FWD and thus quite different in handling compared to my TT01/2 and M06 cars. Most of my running is on improvised "tracks" made by putting some markers on parking lots. The diferent handling of the FF03 opened up a greater understanding on RC driving skills in general, plus the intricacies of setups. Would greatly recommend getting an FF03. I've heard the XV-01 behaves like a mixture of a 4WD and a FWD car.
  7. I'm looking to build a MF-01X trail truck using these Super Mini CVAs. What are the softest springs available for them? Any info is greatly appreciated The springs that come with the set are quite stiff. I ended up using the springs from the kit friction shocks, which are a tad softer but still too stiff. It would have to be something significantly softer.
  8. Indeed the Comical Buggy rears look fantastic They will require more offset than the current 8mm long hexes. Perhaps something around 15mm. Tires are 95mm OD and 57mm wide. The second shot is with buggy rears. These would require even more offset! The wheels are so deep I had to fit them backwards to take the shot! 20mm offset might do the trick and could be a interesting way to finally give use to the buggy kit's spiky tires. Again, both of these are 12mm hex drive.
  9. For the Sand Scorcher rears you can use any M-sized wheel. I'm using Tamiya Mini Cooper Wheels 50569. You will have to glue them as the wheel size is a bit off. Instead of using the regular 5mm hexes, I had to file down some 10mm length hexes down to 8mm, otherwise the tires would touch the chassis components. Picking a wheel with more offset could allow using the regular 5mm long hexes. The Blitzer rear tires are about 91mm OD and 51mm wide. I'm using Tamiya's Twin Detonator wheels 10440024. These wheels have a quite an offset so they don't touch the chassis. If gearing is an issue (car might be too fast and flip), you could go higher-turn on the motor. Both of the above are standard 12mm hex drive. EDIT: Some other possible great tire options could be: Buggy rears Comical buggy rears I'll see if I can get some pictures with these fitted
  10. From top to bottom: TT01 racing truck tires. Unless I can lower the body, which would require cutting plastic, they look too small (Hilux High-Lift syndrome). I really don't want to modify the body though. Grasshopper/Sand Scorcher rear tires. This is my favorite . The tires provide an incredible amount of traction, it's mind-boggling. Mud block tires. Tires look a bit skinny. Blitzer Beetle rear tires. Tires look a bit fat Maxis Trepador. Way too skinny. Moster Beetle tires. Should eat a trail for breakfast.
  11. I agree, lights on crawlers are a must As others stated, the absolute cheapest (and most fun) is to make the LED lights yourself and hook them to one of the receiver 6V channels. You can probably buy 100x LEDS + resistors (cheap 1/8 watt are ok) for the price of a single light kit. Typical white LEDs are 3V. Hook two in parallel, then a 39ohm resistor on each end. This creates about the ideal 20 mA on each LED. Typical red LEDs are 1.8V. Hook two in parallel, then a 56ohm resistor on each end. Similarly, this would create about 20mA on each LED. You would also need any sort of connector that fits into the receiver (many plug types fit) or could try scavenging anything you have available. Breadboard jumper wires are dirt cheap and have individual connectors on each wire that fit the receiver. The above is a good compromise and you won't notice any luminosity difference between LEDs (ideally you don't want to hook LEDs + resistors in parallel, but have resistors individually for each LED). The ideal method is to solder all the LED, resistors, wires and connectors, but I have tried twisting + superglue and it works ok given the very low currents. An even cheaper option is to forget about the resistors and connect two 3V white LEDs in series, totalling 6V. You could also do this with two 1.8V red LEDs but will reduce their life a bit since they will have more than 20mA current. With this setup, chances are you will see a luminosity difference between LEDS. EDIT: Note LEDs have polarity and must be connected in the right direction.
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