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  1. This is a really interesting point. A re-re of the Renault 5 Turbo on the MB-01 would indeed be great. It was quite a troubled release in the M-05Ra chassis with it being FWD and also the rear width not matching the fat end of the body. Even if you try to fit the Renault 5 body on a M-06 it would not fit, since the motor handing at the end of the M-06 interferes with the body. The MB-01 opens the possibility of having RWD with many short rear overhang rally cars.
  2. The MB-01 looks great on paper but I'm not really sure what market niche the MB-01 is filling. Observations & thoughts so far: With the motor on one side and the battery mounted transversally, it seems quite unbalanced L/R. When RWD, it is virtually the same as an RWD-converted TT-02 or TT-01, except that these are very well L/R balanced. Both TT-01/2 conversion are much well behaved than a M-06, but perhaps not as good as an M-08 with its proper transversal motor and transversal battery for a very good L/R balance. When FWD, I fear there is not enough weight on the front which will limit traction. The M-05, M-05v2 and M-07 seem better balanced plus also have a transversal motor. How many times are you really going to flip from FWD to RWD and vice versa? Are you better served by buying a dedicated FWD or RWD instead? Material-wise it seems on-par with the M-05 and M-06, meaning low-cost. If on the market for Tamiya mini chassis: for a great FWD I'll get a M-07, great RWD I'll get the M08, if I wanted a low-cost FWD I would buy an M-05. Perhaps only for a low-cost RWD, perhaps I would get the MB-01 over the M-06 but even then I wouldn't be so sure. The Abarth shell looks great
  3. Very true! I save all plastic bags from all my Tamiya packages. I later use the bags for anything that comes up. The small bags mostly as masking material (just mask the edges, the plastic covers the center) and the larger ones as makeshift gloves for spray-painting. I even save the paper receipts and use them to test paint during cockpit detailing. The RC hobby is on-par as other hobbies as far as polluting, but we can very well minimize it. Back on topic, I don't have any Plaza Japan freebie erasers handy for picture, I gave all of them to my wife and which she gives away to kids here and there. Over the years I've received all kinds of eraser things from animals to sweaters and indeed a Mt. Fuji. I think once I received a donut which looked quite nice. Sometimes, if the box is larger, they include a plastic uchiwa fan instead of the eraser.
  4. I think the erasers are a nice touch. The more conscious party-pooper in me, however, can't escape thinking it's a waste of landfill-fodder plastic that was not asked for. Same for the cardboard thankyou card. As long as you find a reasonable use for it, I guess they are not too bad.
  5. @Bodi007, I just realized that the 17T pinion that comes in the TT-02B Plasma Edge II kit is actually steel (black colored), and not soft aluminum (silver colored). A perfectly fine option is to use it. My earlier recommendation of 18T steel was made since it's recommended getting a steel pinion anyway, best get one with a bit taller FDR and one that could eventually be used with the 68T spur in the future, thus 18T. If edited my earlier post to reflect this.
  6. @foz75 I've tried it and it really doesn't help much, if not anything at all. You can argue that the first coat of color spray is used to seal the tape anyway. The key to avoid sipping is understanding what causes it: Tape not fully sticking to the body, which is sometimes confused with true sip. I'll cover more below. True sip under a well stuck tape. Not sure about brush painting, but both airbrush (from second-hand account) and PS sprays (from extensive first-hand account) do not suffer from true sip when using Tamiya tapes (either the regular yellow one or the flexible white). If properly stuck, these tapes are 100% reliable. Back to item 1 above. The worst enemy of masking tape is tension. Always, always, always remove tension from your tape. You have to be very aware of what causes tension and how to eliminate it. Tension (i.e., the tape is under stretch load) will cause the tape to lift, creep and unstick. Some pointers and examples: Never stretch the tape when applying it. At first glance stretching seems like a good idea because it could initially push down the tape well and also helps in getting masking lines straight. However, after a little bit of time, the tape will unstick, and you will not notice it. Tension can occur when: You physically stretch the tape as you put it down. Self-explanatory. The tape is placed above a concave surface (valley) and then it's pressed down. There is a sharp concave corner or edge, on which the tape simply does not have the ability to flex "into" the edge. You might press it down and it appears to be good, but after a bit of time it will relax and lift. The tape is placed above a convex surface (hill) and innadvertly you start stretching it as you progress putting it down. There is a sharp convex corner where the tape doesn't have the flexibility to flatten against the edge (it will create a little bump over it). You might want to apply tension to push it down, but again this tension will be counter-productive on the sections of the tape immediately next to this convex corner. On a place where you introduce a curvature, for example if trying to mask a round line or shape (even if it's on a flat area like a hood). The curvature will have the tape in tension on its outer end and in compression on the inner edge. Same thing, after a little time it will lift. As you paint, the paint itself will contract as it dries. The contraction will in turn tend to "coil up" the tape and detach it on its edges, especially on convex corners where the tape is already bent "coiled down". How to eliminate tension? Be very mindful and aware of tension when you apply masking. This way you know where it can appear and where to handle it. Minimize stretching the tape at all times. If you need to lay down tape in a straight line, instead of tensioning it, draw guidelines on the outside of the shell (sharpie above the film works well) to check it's straight. On edges where it is unavoidable to create tension, and you can't press the tape down since it will lift up after a little time, simply mask on top and then cut the tape along this edge (valley or hill) with a sharp knife. The tape, now cut, can be pressed down flat on both sides of the cut. There will be a tiny gap left without mask, which you can easily cover with bluetack or similar. If the edges are long and part of a large mask, you can just cut the endpoints of the edge and add bluetack there, instead of cutting the entire edge. It doesn't matter if the rest of mask lifts on the edge at the middle since its already sealed by the bluetack on each endpoint. On larger concave surfaces (but not really sharp enough to be edges), same thing: cut the tape, sometimes even on multiple points to relieve tension, then press down. Fill the gaps with bluetack or small strips of tape. On sections where you have introduced curvatures, sometimes it's best not to cut as this will upset the curve shape. Instead, place a flat blob of bluetack on top of the curved tape. This will hold the tape down. Better yet, instead of masking with straight tape, cut a piece of masking tape that better approximates the curve you want, this way you don't need to bend it much. To minimize tension in curvatures, use the least wide tape you can manage. If you use a wider tape, tension stresses will be higher. For deep holes and edges where it is unpractical to put tape: fill them with bluetack instead of masking. When painting, the first few coats you place above tape will be your sealing layers. It is important that these coats are as fine (misty) as possible to minimize shrinking that could lift the tape. Furthermore, fine coats against bare lexan have a better chance of sticking well and avoiding peeling later. Make a note of the areas where tape could be prone to lifting after a coat of paint. Check these areas after each coat of paint and if necessary, push them down. You will have a few minutes to lay down a new coat of paint before they lift again. You can add some bluetack to hold them down if needed. Small bleeds can be scratched off with a wood toothpick and, if more stubborn, with a small metal pick. The standard Tamiya yellow masking tape can take tension better. The white tape for curves tends to relax tension more severely and requires more of the above techniques applied. Long story short, tension is your worst enemy and bluetack is your best friend Good luck!
  7. @Fabia130vRS I absolutely love my CR-01. My only gripe with this chassis is that its wheelbase of 288mm does not match the bodies it comes with (242mm), giving and odd look. This can be re-worked by shortening the chassis or using a Hilux or F350 shell (from the 3-speed chassis). This is what I did on my CR-01 Hilux Build. Thread linked below with build details and a review comparing it against other Tamiya chassis (have since changed the thread's title reflecting my current ongoing project, but the CR-01 and other trucks can be found on the first pages): TT01E RWD Ford Capri Zakspeed - Alejo's Project Thread - General discussions - Tamiyaclub.com
  8. I had to come back to comment again , this FJ45 truck is absolutely gorgeous. @Nikko85 What springs are you using? I've been looking for extra-soft springs for my Nissan pickup but haven't been able to find a suitable set (preferably Tamiya).
  9. Welcome to the forum @Bodi007 . A bit of background on TT-02 gearing. Stock gearing (from TT-02 manual): High speed gear set: TT-02 touring cars: Kit comes standard with 22T pinion + 70T spur, for a gear ratio (or Final Drive Ratio, FDR) of 8.27 Tire size affects the effective FDR. Touring cars generally use 65mm OD tires. Touring cars are generally run with FDRs in the 5.5 to 7.5 range (the kit standard 8.27 is too short). The standard kit 70T spur allows FDR down to 7.28 only, which is not great. This triggers the need of the high-speed gear set to push it further down. TT-02B Buggies (Plasma Edge II): Kit comes standard with 17T pinion + 70T spur, for an FDR of 10.71. Buggies have larger tires, thus requiring higher (shorter) FDR to achieve the same speed. The Plasma Edge II comes with ~88mm tires. Buggies are generally run with FDRs in the 7.5 to 10.5 range (the kit standard 10.71 is a bit too short). The standard kit 70T spur, with FDRs that can go all the way down to 7.28, is already great for a buggy. Back to the question of whether the high-speed gear set is needed for the Plasma Edge II. These are my thoughts: FDR-wise, you don't need it. The 70T spur can give you plenty of gearing options for the buggy-size tires. The kit comes with a 17T pinion. If you do install the 68T spur that comes with the high-speed gear set, you won't be able to use the 17T pinion since the smallest pinion that can be paired to the 68T spur is a 18T pinion. Regardless of the spur gear, the kit standard pinion is made of very soft aluminum that will wear quickly and chew-up the spur once it does (EDIT: The TT-02B kit comes with a 17T steel pinion and not soft aluminum). It is recommended to use a steel pinion, or at least hardened aluminum. The only real benefits I can see of installing the high-speed gear set on a TT-02B buggy is that the aluminum spur mount will make the gear spin with a bit less wobble (better fit), which is not a must-have improvement for a mild-power basher. It would also allow to fit gears of other tooth size (module, say 0.8mod instead of the provided 0.6mod) but this would require an aftermarket fully-adjustable motor mount and again for a basher not really needed. The TT-02B is a fantastic basher. Assuming you plan to use the car as a basher using the stock motor, my recommendation is to stick with the standard 70T spur, get a steel 18T pinion (motor mounted on position C) and save the high-speed gear set for a TT-02 touring car. EDIT: Since the TT-02B kit comes with a steel 17T pinion, a good option could be just to keep it (motor mounted on position B).
  10. Thanks for sharing your collection @Nikko85! I'm a big fan of the Land Cruisers and those FJ45 look awesome. If Tamiya ever releases a spare FJ45 body, they have a customer here . It would probably get built into a light MF-01X trail car.
  11. Photo Shoot The #2 Ford Capri Zakspeed Turbo was the winner of the DRM 1981 championship. Piloted by Klaus Ludwig: Horrible weather today will have to postpone running the car.
  12. TT-01E RWD Ford Capri Zakspeed Turbo For some reason the Lancia Delta in Martini livery doesn't click with me. You might be asking yourself, what does this have to do with a Ford Capri? Well, two years ago I got a XV-01 Lancia Delta kit, which got built last year with a borrowed Toyota Celica shell from a TT-01E rally car. That rally chassis has been collecting dust in a corner ever since. After reading about one-way units here on the forum, I decided to resurrect this TT-01E chassis with a RWD conversion. The Ford Capri Zakspeed Turbo shell was pulled from the spare body shelf. TT-01E RWD Chassis Nothing really fancy on this build, except for the use of a flipped one-way unit on the front diff. This will allow to have the front wheels free-spinning on-power and have 4-wheel brake. I previously built a RWD TT-01E Countach but it did not have a front one-way unit. Instead the front diff was disconnected from the propeller shaft and locked. This really helped with the RWD on-power oversteer and made the car great to drive, with the only issue being braking at high speed. Only braking with the rear wheels made it impossible to break hard -anything other than a slight tap on the brake would ensure a spin. Fast-forward to the current build and the idea is to solve the issue by introducing a flipped one-way unit into the front diff. The car will keep the propeller shaft. By "flipped" one-way unit, I mean that the one-way bearing will be placed in reverse. Normally one-way units deliver power forward, but not on reverse, which is the opposite of what I want to accomplish. The build required removing all the grime from the earlier rally car and pretty much a complete teardown. Parts used: The kit was built stock except for: Full ball bearings Aluminum front uprights (these were added when the car was meant for rally to improve toughness) Full turnbuckles Wide rear axles Rear toe-in uprights (53673), to give the car straight-line estability Aluminum propeller shaft, I don't think it's needed but I had it already Aluminum motor mount (53666), not needed but it was cheap Adjustable upper arms (53674), to give the car as much rear grip as possible through negative camber 4WD Front one-way unit (53200) Gearbox joints (19805368), needed to fit the one-way Drive shafts (50883), needed to fit the one-way Wheel axles (50823), needed to fit the one-way Low-Friction aluminum damper (53155) 20T Axial motor (seems quite cheap-o) + heatsink + fan 26T pinion + 55T spur for a 5.72 FDR JX DC6015 servo Tamiya HT servo saver Quickrun 1060 ESC + fan R203GF receiver + Futaba 3PL transmitter Front 26mm slicks and rear wide 32mm slicks Front brace mod Build: The key to the build was to flip the one-way diff unit, which pretty much involves putting the one-way bearing on the "wrong" flipped position. I was hoping that the flipped one-way would also lock the front differential both on-power and on-braking. It turns out it is only locked on-braking and it's completely loose on-power. I guess this would mean that the car will be less stable on-power (compared to having the idle lock diff as in the Countach) but will get very good stable 4WD braking as a trade-off. Next step is to take it to the track and see how it performs .
  13. @Nicadraus Thanks . It will go into a LaFerrari I've been slowly building over the past month. Just a few touches left.
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