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  1. @Juggular I think you hit the nail spot-on on why the softer bronze wears faster than steel. On my job, we work on rotating equipment that many times use journal bearings with both the external static bushing and an inner rotating sleeve both made of very hard carbide parts. The sleeve generally wears much more than the bushing when running in abrasive conditions because of what you describe.
  2. @Mokei Kagaku thanks for sharing! If the BT-01 is built with a stiffened/locked front diff it should perform quite well as RWD, up to Super Stock TZ power using the standard wide rear tyres. Having said that, IMHO a RWD converted TT-02, also with stiffened/locked front diff, would be a better kit than a BT-01. Any additional power, say LiPo or brushless, would benefit from a flipped front one-way instead of the stiffened/locked front diff. *Edit: If Tamiya would make those Porsche wheels available separately would be fantastic
  3. Proper box art can even make a relatively ugly car look awesome: I'm glad Tamiya has resurrected proper box art in recent releases (TD4, TD2, BBX). Now if they could do that for all releases...
  4. It's been almost 6 months since my last real activity on the hobby. All my cars and RC stuff is now in storage and awaiting moving to a new home. Once I settle, this thread will burst with new stuff. In the pipeline: Ferrari F189 - F104 ProII Nissan R91CP - Group C Fiat 500 - M07 Porsche 911 GT1 - TA03RS Raybrig HSV - TA05 Nissan R390 GT1 - TA06 Nissan Skyline R32 Calsonic - TL-01 Mercedes CLK GTR - TC01 Mercedes CLK GTR - TT01 (fully spec'd, to battle against the TC01) Toyota Tom's Exiv - TT02S FWD Arta NSX - TT02SRX Unimog 406 6x6 - G6-01 I am also hoping I can run my cars a lot more frequently, posting content on my hotlap championship thread.
  5. Seems it was sprayed too thick. That is a no-no with any color, especially with metallics that have particles that can coalesce if the paint puddles. I agree that strip and start again is the best option. If stripping is something you want to avoid, an alternative could be to back it as-is to seal the areas you want to keep (dont' forget to mask off the windows!). After backing, gently sand off the areas you want to correct with 2000 grit sandpaper. Do it gently until you get the bad bits clear. Try to avoid sanding corners too much to prevent weakening the lexan. Then spray blue again and back the area. The end product might have a slight transition in shade between the corrected and non-corrected sections which should only be noticeable at arms length.
  6. OoALEJOoO


    @alvinlwh Great to see you having a lot of fun together with your daughter!
  7. Thanks for sharing, looking forward to watching the rest of the cars in action! That paintwork on the Frog is great, reminds me of the Castrol Mugen racing liveries.
  8. Anything that the car can touch will get pushed and you'll spend more time resetting it than actually driving. That's the beauty of chalk, it really can't be moved. The best alternative to chalk is probably flat rubber markers (also called agility dots). These are made of a fairly dense & grippy rubber that doesn't move too easily. Most of the time the car will just run above them moving them only a little bit. Over time you still need to reposition them though. I tried them for a while and then moved to chalk. *EDIT: Another alternative could be court line markers. Similar material but in different shapes other than dots:
  9. This looks like a variant of making the cup slot larger and then fitting a larger pin to the dogbone, which is not bad at all. In this case, instead of a larger pin, the pin was sleeved with plastic.
  10. I've been thinking about this since @skom25 started the posts about drivetrain wear. On some machinery sometimes wear is handled by allowing the easiest/cheapest to replace of the mating parts be noticeable weaker/softer than the other coupled part. The result is that now you control what wears and what doesn't. In the case, I wonder if the dogpins can be replaced with something softer (e.g. softer bronze). You will have to replace the pins more often, but the result will be that the cups virtually don't wear at all. If the pins are cheap & easy to replace, this could be a workaround. Having said that, I think that this is all a great mental exercise. Unless you run your cars 24/7 (or run an RC shop), and assuming you can indeed get a hold of spare parts, just buying spares will probably still be the cheapest & certainly less time-consuming option.
  11. Very cool, thanks for sharing.
  12. That's a very good point. The universal joint parts should be able to retain some lubricant, especially if it's of the sticky type used in bicycle chains. Tamiya's anti-wear or moly grease should be sticky enough. A drop of 3-in-1 oil once in a while wouldn't hurt either and it should be quick to do.
  13. The cost is lower, given 53671 is quite expensive: Using 53671 - JPY 3,080 (which BTW includes & needs 1060 flanged bearings that might be troublesome to replace later). Going TT-01E route - JPY 1,980 total. 53200 One-way (JPY 1,130) + 53218 Splined cups (JPY 490) + 51004 TT-01E Gears (JPY 360) On both instances, if you are using a standard TT-02 or TT-01E kit, you also need to upgrade the front to steel wheel axles (50823) & drive shafts (50883), or use universals (53792). All in all, still not exactly a cheap upgrade, which is why if you are using Torque-Tuned or below, I think you are better off by locking the front diff instead of using 4WD braking. All prices from Plaza Japan.
  14. Without any systematic testing or careful observation, but just going with gut feel, my thought is that it doesn't matter whether they are oiled or not. Even if you oil them, considering these parts are spinning, the oil will centrifuge out the moment the car is run. Oil or grease in moving parts without being contained, circulated or replenished doesn't last very long. I guess the same goes with the paste/abrasive-mix, if it forms it will flick away. What probably makes the most difference is the hardness of the metal and whether you run it in an abrasive environment (e.g. sand dust). Diff cups or wheel axes can sometimes get extra life if, once a wear region forms, the dogbones are now spaced differently so that they land on a different place. Sometimes this can be achieved by simply swapping them left to right, or front to back. The hub axles unfortunately once they start wearing on the pin-hole there is not much that can be done. Perhaps an option is trying to fit a bigger pin once the hole is large enough but I haven't reached this point yet. Maintenance of these parts is probably highly time consuming for the small difference it would make. Unless you really enjoy building/unbuilding, dusting, etc, I would think spending a few bucks in spares is a better option. Trade-offs I guess. Something that would make the biggest difference in preventing wear is covering the universal joint with some sort of boot, similar to what the Monster Beetle has.
  15. You can still build it 2WD. TT-02 RWD cars are awesome. Handling-wise: If you go with lower power (Torque-Tuned motor maximum), I recommend locking or stiffening the front diff. No extra parts needed, other than removing the prop shaft and sealing the hole where it enters the front diff. If you go higher power & speed, then 4WD braking is useful and going with the 4WD braking flipped one-way mod helps.
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