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  1. Indeed I got very excited when I saw your Dynamog thread, great looking model My tactic to counter the high CG was to use the crawler technique of heavy wheels. Each steel wheel + tire has a whopping 240g weight, x6 wheels totals 1.44Kg! Since all that weight is very low, it should have a substantial effect in lowering the CG. I hope the trade-off is worth it. It will get beaten eventually, there is no escaping that
  2. I've always used 30mm Raspberry Pi fans on HW1060 and Tamiya TBLE02/04 ESCs. Also on top of motor heatsinks to cool Super Stock TZ/BZ motors. These fans are low cost (~2.5 dollars each!) and lower temperatures considerably. Never had an issue even on hot 30+ degC days. I see no reason to pay for overpriced RC components that are the exact same just labeled under an RC brand. Mount with a couple of zip-ties (or included hardware) and you are good to go They are nominal 5V but can also run well on 6V. JST connectors can fit directly to your receiver or servo cables with a slight push. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234143115931
  3. Everything is shaping up quite well. The bulk of the work on the box is finished. I ended up choosing the wood panel stickers over real wood to reduce some weight. The hinges and locks are made from little bits & pieces of plastic and painted silver. Added some anti-slip steel (plastic) floor pieces on the wheel arches. Safety first, Capt. Pegleg already lost a leg for not being careful! The front got a dummy winch. The bare plastic was rather ugly, gave it a coat of paint. On the to-do list: Capt. Pegleg got his coat of paint finished and spray-sealed. Waiting to fully dry. Mount our fearless driver, then attach the box to the cabin (the pictures show it loosely attached without the screws). Solder LED lights I'm itching to get out and run it!
  4. This would indeed be great, and if possible in '79 Gr.5 flavor! I've got the 1/24 DeTomaso Pantera GTS kit from Fujimi but haven't had time to build it.
  5. There is something about Group 5 and Group B cars that really makes them stand out! That Lancia Beta is no exception Went over to Wikipedia to read more about it and seems the Lancia 037 is based on it. Since Tamiya has the license for the 037 I really hope they release the Monte Carlo. The recent re-release of the Cliff Calibra on TT-01E is somewhat attractive but was really looking forward to something not released before, and definitely not on a TT-01E!
  6. An Isdera Commendatore 112i would be outstanding. One of the most beautiful cars ever made (TC-01 chassis please! ).
  7. The dimples on the lexan bodies are a reliable guide as to where to drill the holes, specially if it's a Tamiya body going to a Tamiya chassis. As above noted, it is a good idea to double-check while the lexan body is still clear, this way you can be certain. There are some Tamiya bodies that have multiple dimple positions to accommodate for different chassis body post locations. I normally paint first, then drill second. For hard bodies it is a different story. Tamiya normally mounts them via other methods other than body posts. If you are referring to a custom job where you want to mount a hard body to body posts, then it's a bit more tricky. What I've used in the past is place a thin layer of blue-tac on the inside of the body roughly where the holes should go. I then use the body posts, mounted on the chassis, to mark the blue-tac. Make sure the body is not in an angle, i.e. it is oriented in the final vertical alignment, when you make the marks. These marks would be a very good reference but you would still need to manually measure the left-to-right, front-to-back and center-line spacing for best fit.
  8. I agree that the PS-1 white is very white, but that is the reason I like it It makes all the other details and colors pop. I've tried backing with silver before black but have found this unnecessary if you instead put extra white before backing with black. Moreover, when spraying metallic paints, the overspray leaves metallic particles dangling in the air that I assume are more harmful to your health (assumption there) than non-metallics. For this reason, when having a choice, I avoid spraying metallics unless the color really requires it.
  9. Something that personally makes all shells (of any color) look like something is off is the fact that the thinness of the shell, even with paint, makes light shine through. This makes the car scream cheap, toyish, and just plain off. This is particularly apparent with bodies painted white. Maybe this is what you are referring to. It has always puzzled me why nobody ever seems to comment about this, and time and time again, all over the internet and in tutorials people recommend painting dark colors first and light colors last with no final black backing. This makes white shells the worst offenders since they get only a single paint color. I always back all my shells with black at the end. This eliminates any light bleed and gives the shells a nice, solid look with no light bleed-through. I can't stress enough how important this is with white shells. I normally paint whatever color makes masking easier, then make sure that color is properly backed (usually white for non-metallics) and then back with black at the end. Note that specially for white shells, it is important to paint sufficient thickness in white paint before applying the black, otherwise you might get some dark areas. I've painted several white shells and a full single Tamiya PS-1 White has been sufficient for one shell. Then it takes about 1/3 of a can of PS-5 black to back since you only need to light coat. An exception perhaps, is for racing cars where you really want to minimize paint since it adds weight. Another aspect that makes white shells look bad is not doing panel lines. I guess the whiteness of the finish makes the lack of detail more apparent. You don't really need something fancy to do the lines. You can get good results with a 0.5mm black permanent marker and a flexible ruler to lean against to trace straight lines along the body curvature. A flexible ruler can be any strip of material that can bend. Sharper curves are generally small enough that you can do them unaided by hand. If you mess-up, you can always erase with a damp cotton/cloth with alcohol and try again. Good luck **Edit** some examples of white cars I've painted:
  10. Very cool, if a van and a Lamborghini LM002 had a baby it would probably look like that Pinzgauer A Pinzgauer in a G6-01 or G6-01TR chassis would be fantastic! Much better than the terrible (in my eyes!) Dynahead.
  11. Interesting to see very varied requests! Sport cars modern & classic, rally, Paris-Dakar, muscle cars, SUV, utility 4x4 have made it to the list. I wonder how it is that Tamiya makes a market analysis to decide what to release next? Broadly known brand/model that makes it attractive? Age of fan base, how would they know this (surveys?). This could dictate leaning towards classics vs modern. Cost of licensing? Attached to a chassis with sales potential? I am guessing they have TONS of data from their sales experience after decades of releasing cars, which could be used to study tastes/trends from sales quantities on different parts of the world. +1 vote on the Shelby Cobra
  12. Tamiya recently released the great Audi Quattro Rally in 1/10 TT-02 flavor (something existing in their 1/24 catalogue) so one can dream on they porting other cars to 1/10 RC!
  13. Very cool, with or without the flux capacitor? Hit 88mph and it would go up in smoke! A dose of American muscle wouldn't hurt either! The HPI transam bodies are not sufficiently detailed
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