Kol__

Wow mate, this is amazing!!😎

My first and longest watched RC YouTuber is Glenn from Tamiya Legends and more recently RC Legends. The latter being a channel which now looks like it's closing down. Not sure how many others have noticed, but Glenn's enthusiasm seems to be thinning out. Not that I'm criticising him, it must be a hard gig to keep up. However, it's a shame to see what appears to be a bit of a continuous and mounting tiring of the hobby and a less engaged and enthusiastic Glenn. I know we all have times when we fall out of love with the hobby for a while and then get back into it again. I think though that given the longevity I've seen this veil of tiredness endure I think we may be witnessing the start of a permanent wind down on the amount of content we'll see and his general involvement in the hobby. I could well be wrong of course and I hope I am. Time will tell...

Nice one mate, this one is cool and amusing at the same time. He loves a Scandi flick!...

Darn it!!😂

Thanks for the translation @Willy iine, appreciated mate👍 I hadn't noticed the change to the shocks @Snappy1, I'm really not a fan of the ribbed design on these types of shocks. The finer sort of knurled finish on the original style caps are way nicer. One more reason that my original restoration will stay set apart from the rere😁 Word is that the body shell will be precut and prepainted, that's fine for me as I'll be going box art, but hope the outline for the resistor is still there in the shell. Already being advertised around the £220 mark in the UK, with an expected date of 1st Dec '23

Awesome stuff @Sgt.Speirs! So great to see you guys keeping these old beauties alive, and running and racing!!😎😎😎

Amazing work @wtcc5! I've seen the race footage on YouTube 😎 Look forward to seeing the build got this one mate. Will parts be available for those of us who wish to follow suit?🙂

Indeed, nice list there mate. Best to state where you're from too buddy, is it the US?

I like that it's a channel on UK soil and he's pretty down to earth overall, but oh my god, I'm glad it's not just me that gets frustrated with the TV presenter style of talking he's adopted. He didn't used to talk like that in his early videos, and he sounds odd these days, like some sort of poor man's Jeremy Clarkson!🤦🏻

Great post, as always @Saito2 Glad to hear the love is shared and that this is a particular special one for you, one that's close to your heart. They say that the strongest memories, in particular from childhood, are imprinted so strongly due to the strength of the emotions created at the time of the event/s. So I am excited for you to run one and relive the feelings associated with this classic car from back in the day buddy🤗 And @GToddC5...

So lads, last night Tamiya presented a Super Sabre on their show - link below, forward to about 2hrs 25mins or so to see them bring it out... from under the table. The only word I could understand is 'Prototype', said a couple of times as if covering themselves for the moment, but it seems like a ReRe is coming, and no huge surprise considering the re-release of its brother the Boomerang. Anyone able to tell us the gist of what they're saying? Link to vid... Screenshots... To me this has always been a bit of a classic and has quite a unique, space age look to it in the Tamiya world. I have a used model to restore, with new og chassis etc. to build it proper. It looks like I'll hopefully be able to pick up a proper Tamiya shell for my restoration, albeit in a thicker modern polycarbonate, which I actually prefer as they are waaaaay more durable. I already have a set of original stickers - need to get them out and compare to the model they displayed in the vid to see if, as with many rere's, they've changed certain stickers due to brands and sponsorship shizz etc. How many others share the love for this space craft of a buggy?

How does this promo work buddy? Whenever I click on one of their many, many coupon promo offer things it's always limited to certain items or brands etc.🤦🏻

Wow mate, so so sorry to read this and hear your news. As others have said, your forum input has been stellar and in the years I've been on here it's always been nice following your mad adventures, thank you. I wish you and your family the all the strength to get through this most difficult of times and I am sure that the love you have for each other will give you all that you need to take the next steps. See you in the next life Tamiya Brother. I salute you sir.

I can return the 'info favour' now @toyolien😂... He's become a very popular British RC Youtuber over the last couple of years...

Cheers @Collin, I always appreciate the input mate, that way we can all learn from each others experiences. Very interesting to hear your view about the potential weak points of FDM for RC applications. I know next to nothing about 3D printing, but tbh I'd imagine it'll likely be fine for the sort of mild bashing I will be using the buggy for. The Additive RC parts are being tested in racing and to date I think a broken rear hub is the only casualty, which is resulting in a redesign of the part to improve rigidity. However, given that Xtra-Speed are now doing alloy rear hubs for the Super Astute, I'll probably got those if the standard Tamiya hubs fail. I'll keep this thread updated on the durability of the parts and the success/failures of my approach to the rebuild. What are your thoughts on my previous commentary regarding the slipper clutch assembly buddy?

So, onto the mods... 3D printed, and mostly reinforced with carbon, parts from Additive RC in the UK - check him out on eBay. Only pieces I didn't pick up are the gearbox cover and cap, and the rear uprights, as at this point I don't feel they are needed for this build. Full alloy parts set for the Dyna Storm from Custom RC in Serbia - check him out on FB. The front bulk head cleverly incorporates 4x removable brass weights in the base of it. I plan to run with none initially and then add as and when required for fine tuning of handling and jumping performance. As the gearbox is out, the first area to get modded is the rear end. A mix of the above parts will be installed, with hope of making a reliable runner. The existing set up had longer screws fitted through the rear arm mounts, with additional locking nuts fitted on the ends. Usually these are just fitted using Tamiya press nuts, which you can see underneath the low profile locking nuts. Disassembled... Chassis in decent, useable condition New alloy mounts and 3D printed, carbon fibre reinforced arms with carbon fibre strands in key areas and filings through out I believe... Ruler just there to hold the arms level... Rear bumper/motor guard lower mount in alloy... Gearbox reinstalled and shot of the underside of the new setup, mostly using Tamiya hex head steel hardware... Top view prior to fitting shock tower and associated parts . 3D printed shock tower mount Alloy gearbox mount top bracket to replace the broken part... Rear hubs assembly next👍

Interesting! Thanks @Collin👍 I did think that was odd as well, due to other Tamiya slippers I've built having had both spring seats slotted inside the spring, to ensure alignment. The only reason I could see for fitting it what appears to be backwards, as per the manual, would be to get more pressure on the diff with less tightening of the slipper adjustment nut, as having the protrusion sticking out from the spring (rather than nestled inside it) lengthens the assembly. So I assume the outer diameter of the spring seat it 8mm or less? As if flipped it will need to be able to slot down into the bearing to apply pressure into the discs, as the adjustment nut is tightened. Edit: in fact looking at the photo above, the spring seat outer diameter looks larger than the 8mm centre hole in the 1280 bearing. So if the spring seat is flipped, surely it will only give a mm or two of adjustment on the assembly until the face of the spring seat makes contact with the bearing and then no further pressure can be applied to the discs? Or is that the nut is tightened until the spring seat makes contact with the bearing and then any further tightening compresses the spring more making increasing the pressure that way?

Yeah, good point @Collin mate👍 Also, unrelated that, but still in the same area, I had felt that the slipper assembly was a bit odd when I put it together and upon reviewing the manual again I saw I'd made an error with the 1280 bearing placement. I'm using the rere manual, but it appears that the buggy I've acquired is an original 90'a DS, of which only difference between the two versions I believe is some bushings in the gearbox being replaced by bearings. The first of which I found, being an 850 brass bushing in the centre of the diff gear, which I replaced with end 850 bearing (as can be seen in posts above). The second I have now realised is a plastic 1280 bushing that slots into the plastic slipper discs housing cover. I hadn't even noticed that it was fitted into the cover, slotted in seamlessly and so well camouflaged it was. So I'd ended up just plonking my 1280 bearing on top of it and snugging up the slipper spring behind it. Here you can see the plastic bushing fitted into the centre of the plastic cover... Removed plastic bushing, with 1280 bearing to go in as a replacement... Rebuilt correctly and set as per the manual, ready to be set up and adjusted to spec on its first run...

Ah I see, so he calls himself Paisen RC🧐

So what is Paisenhead Motors?🤷🏻...

This popped up at the end of a Tamiya live streaming yesterday. For anyone who wants a TRF BBX here's what it could look like, at first glance big bores and a paint job...

Cheers @Collin, makes sense bud👍

Great work @ThunderDragonCy, a unique and inventive approach as always😎 Liking your mix of new shells to combat Tamiya's unbelievably bad choice of original shell for the TD4👍 So did you buy red Rit dye for the wheels? When I dyed my DT-03 parts a good while back I bought the Sunshine Orange and with half a bottle in a pan of water it took 65-70 mins at a simmer to get the right tone of orange - https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/100466-neo-racing-fighter-build/&tab=comments#comment-894977

Awesome mate, great to see this one still out and attacking the track! So you reckon stiffer arms will solve the handling issues?

Lots of work has been done, so need to get some updates on here... Picked up new bearings for the gearbox rebuild. The original bearings will be retained for the shelfer. Diff parts all degreased and cleaned... Flipped the ball diff plates to give a fresh surface for the balls, inserted a new central 850 bearing, replacing the original brass bushing, and rebuilt with Tamiya ball diff grease. Here you can more clearly see the 3 sets of back to back conical washers and the thrust bearing, that is used to tighten the diff and control adjustment. Diff rebuilt and adjusted to spec tightness, which is the usual process of slowly tightening up just until you can't spin the gear anymore whilst holding the drive cups locked in a static position with little spanners or similar tool. On to the rest of the gearbox internals... One issue I came across is that upon rebuilding the gearbox, is that there was a clearance issue with the end of the long bolts that both hold the gearbox together and secure the motor plate and FRP reinforcing plate in place. On one of them, the end of it that protrudes through the back of the motor place was catching on the screws on the back of the spur gear when spin by hand. You can see this at the top of the image below... Unsure why this was the case, as instructions where followed to the letter (so I don't believe I made an error there), all bolts are they same length, with nothing over tightened. Simply adding a standard 3mm Tamiya washer to the other end of the particular troublesome long gearbox case screw was enough to avoid the contact. Have a couple of rear bumpers/motor guards here, so chose the most battered one for this runner. You can also see the first alloy replacement part in these images too.