cyclonecap

Mini pins will be good for firm dirt and short grass, if its more loamy or loose grass then mini spikes would be better. Should give you a lot more steering than the rib tyres either way.

What surface are you racing on? Between Schumacher, Ballistic Buggy and JC racing you should be able to find a tread and compound that gives you the steering you want.

This is a very normal setup for other brands. See this picture from an Associated B6, they have used a through-hole ball stud and a nyloc nut but the idea is the same. A ball nut will probably need some threadlock but that isn't really a problem.

https://tamico.de/Team-Associated-AE20518-Rival-MT10-Brushless-RTR-V2 The MT10 would be a good value option in europe.

Its a shame because their full water proof design is quite appealing but I've one Mtroniks ESC pop, using a motor well within the limits. And the other I owned wouldn't realiably go into reverse. Can't really reccommend them.

Have you tried it with a non-mtroniks ESC? I have had them not pick up reverse before.

I think you're over estimating the cost there. This charger and battery combo would be ideal and comes in at $106. https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-imars-iii-pro-smart-balance-ac-battery-charger-6s-10a-100w-gea100wmpro/p1390629 https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-redline-2s-lihv-lipo-lcg-battery-130c-7.6v-4000mah-gea40002s13d5/p1451943 Beyond that you could also consider a low profile servo. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963192117.html After that I would start pulling parts off or cutting things like the rear bumper, although that will spoil the look.

Couple of interesting things in this video. The subtitles weren't completely clear but I think they're saying that the cage can be removed and other bodies can be mounted. It also looks like the rear cage of the cage has extra mounts for something. Hopefully others on here can make more out.

The DT04 doesn't look so good next to the sale price TD2.

I would try adding weight and using the motor you already have first. The square cube law for mass is why RCs don't drive like real cars. If that doesn't give the desired effect then I'd install any high turn motor and gear up.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007805655296.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004840346411.html These two are probably the cheapest option for sensored system, around 3x the cost of a brushed setup but worth it in my opinion.

A truck on the BB01 chassis, similar to the DT02T trucks or the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage in style.

There isn't really a way of knowing for sure but gut feel is it should be okay. It depends on the weight of the vehicle and the drive ratio. It would probably struggle in 4wd short course truck but in a tamiya buggy or onroad car it should be alright. If you don't want to run lipos upgrading to the largest capacity nimhs you can find would also help. For example: https://www.overlander.co.uk/nimh-batteries/7-2v-6s/subc-5000mah-7-2v-premium-sport-nimh-battery-deans.html You will also need to turn off the lipo low voltage cut off on the ESC.

If you cut a spring shorter you will make it stiffer, which will probably spoil the handling. Can you not find any shocks you like that are the right length? If you search rc shocks red 60mm there are a lot of options online.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005214711904.html These are a good size for younger drivers if you can't find the quanum model.