cyclonecap

I built something similar using my Schumacher KR. Although I ran the body up high so I could keep the fenders. Definitely handled worse but looked pretty cool I thought.

Might give you some more inspiration. https://www.bigsquidrc.com/rc4wd-hardcore-slash-chassis-video/

Not tamiya but the traxxas 2wd platform might be the easiest/cheapest way to go. Its easy to do a cut and shut on a slash or rustler chassis to the right wheelbase and then you can use the various arm lengths and wheel offsets to get the track. Something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNGptgxrhFI but with a flat rustler chassis. There are loads on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/296680853133

Depends what budget is to you, but I've got one of these and really rate it. 25kg brushless for £35 delivered is great. The only downside to them is the case is pretty tall so it won't fit every vehicle. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002480688340.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.33.6f4b1802Sk43HG

At £211 these offer great value and will be more durable than an FTX vantage or tamiya kit. You can turn the throttle down on the transmitter until their skill improves. The only issue I've seen people have with them is leaky shocks which is an easy fix if you've built an RC before. A used race kit would handle better but I don't think you could fit one out for less than £211 unless you find a great deal. https://www.align-trex.co.uk/team-associated-rb10-rtr-red-as90032.html?gad_source=1

Chargers have got really capable over the last few years. Here are some good options: Cheapest modelsport sell that I would use, has all the features you need. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/skyrc-s65-ac-charger-65w-438918 Similar but 100w so will charge faster if you have larger packs. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/skyrc-s100-neo-ac-dc-charger-1360636 Cheapest dual charger: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/skyrc-t100-dual-battery-lipo-balance-charger-444856 Super small form factor charger, ideal for race meetings or travel https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/skyrc-b6-ac-neo-ac-dc-charger-1359715 These all use XT60s so you will some new charging cables, modelsport offer them or you can solder them up yourself.

Not quite, a normal RC ESC works by modulating the voltage from the battery by chopping it into a near square wave. This averages out to a voltage somewhere between zero and the battery voltage, eg 50% throttle means 50% time at 0v and 50% at max voltage. If the load increases then the motor will draw more current as is needed. The ESC has no awareness of the current draw or RPM (some ESCs can data log these but they don't form part of the control loop) and cannot decide how much current is drawn, it can only control voltage. What you have described is more like an industrial VFD or hobbywings FOC crawler systems that sense their own RPM and supply power to maintain a set RPM. An interesting question I have for you is if this information was available from most RC motor manufacturers, how would that affect your purchasing decisions? Because 99% of RC owners have no way of knowing what torque or power requirements their RC needs to achieve the performance they desire, myself included. I know that my 1/10th race buggies need a 6 turn to 10 turn motor to give me the speed I want but I don't know what translates to in power, torque etc.

For the shocks have you removed one of the springs already on the double shocks? That will help.

Where has this rule of thumb come from? Many RC applications will have a no load current close to zero and a max current in the hundreds of amps. There are motor manufacturers who give safe maximum amp ratings but this is the safe limit for motor, not the maximum it can ever draw. https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/speed-runners-reading-castle-data-logs-and-esc-settings.37182/ ESC data logs https://www.banggood.com/SURPASS-Hobby-C3542-1000KV-or-1250KV-or-1450KV-Outrunner-Brushless-Motor-for-RC-Airplane-Fixed-wing-EDF-Ducted-Fan-Unit-p-1615378.html?akmClientCountry=GB&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=517699 Motor with max current ratings.

Agree with others. They have been the cheapest for a few things but dispatch has been slow. I would use them again but not for anything urgent.

Based on the many PR buggies and a few SCTs at my club. They are very durable and very aggresive in the base setup, really shining on tight high grip tracks with the kit setup. The designs are slightly out of date, they were at the cutting edge a few years ago but haven't updated the platform like the other race brands.

1500 minutes! Got my units mixed up.

Yes, driveshaft pins and diff cups are a wear item. On my race buggies I get about 2 years out of a set, roughly 1500 hours minutes of driving. Once the pins have a flat on them the wear will slow down as the pressure is across a greater area. The plastic UJ style driveshafts that traxxas and Arrma use are actually better in this regard but do have other disadvantages.

Not particularly organised but here are some thoughts based the clubs I go to and assist in running. Have a think about insurance, in the UK the BRCA do a good job with the liability aspects of running a club. I'm don't know what is available/expected in Canada for a club like this. Use this summer as a trial year so that you are more informed for next year. Set a maximum power limit (I would say electric only and upto 2S, depending on your track) and see what vehicles people bring to use. You'll then know what classes are popular. Don't both with an overall championship this year, instead hand out small prizes each race night. I'd suggest sweets or chocolate. Design your tracks for the least skilled drivers, otherwise you'll have a crash-fest on your hands. Especially in the offroad classes. Setup social media pages for your club Make it absolutely clear which transponders work with your timing system Train at least 3 people to use the timing software so if one of you is unavailable the club isn't stuck. Make sure you have a PA system or atleast a microphone and speaker. If you need to run a controlled rules class like tt01/2 or something, just copy a rule set from another club online. Don't bother making your own version Jumps and track markers do need regular repairs, make sure you're charging enough in your entry fees to cover this kind of work

I've never actually bought a new tamiya kit for this reason. Once you've owned a race kit its hard to justify the hop up game on a basic model. Best of luck with your racing adventure! Just to let you know, many of the parts the break on the KD can be replaced with parts from the Laydown and LD2 with minimal additional changes. The rear transmission is unique but the 4 corners and front end share most of the parts with the Laydown. If you need any help getting the KD running I'd be happy to help with what parts swap over.