cyclonecap

I have seen 3 people have signal issues with the MX6 at my racing club so not surprised that you are having issues with it. The Futaba 3PV is nice, however futaba receivers aren't the cheapest. Turbo racing and flysky offer cheaper radios with similar functionality.

▪️Sensorless motors can be run in reverse by swapping the phase wires, but the timing also needs to be reversed (e.g. +15 to -15 degrees).Not quite correct. Sensorless motors can be run in reverse but they don't have any timing adjustment on the motor so its a simple plug swap to change direction. ▪️Sensored motors can't have their phases swapped, so can't be run in reverse like this; they have to be set as reverse running via ESC programming. Not all ESC's have this option, though, and I can't see how you tell which do, other than by reading their manuals. Broadly correct, you actually can run a sensored motor in reverse if you leave the sensor lead unplugged (IE sensorless) or if you swap the phases and re-pin the sensor lead, not really a suggestion for a beginner though. ▪️BL motors with fixed timing can still have their timing adjusted via the ESC...not sure about this one. Can the ESC adjust the timing of a reversed motor? What if the timing is fixed at non-zero? Sensorless brushless motor don't have a concept of fixed timing on the motor itself. An ESC can adjust timing on a reversed motor no problem. I have never seen an ESC with the timing fixed at not zero. ▪️Some ESC's dynamically adjust the timing, but is that just sensored ones? Do you only get that with non-budget ESC's? I've only seen even the option to _reverse_ the motor via programming on a FlySky 160A 150.00+ ESC... Correct as far as I'm aware, only high end sensored ESCs can adjust timing dynamically. If I was doing this mod I would probably buy something like 2x following. Aiming for waterproof and cheap. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-wp-10bl60-bl-esc-382833 https://www.banggood.com/Surpass-Hobby-3650-3100-or-3600-or-4500-or-5200kv-2S-or-3S-1-or-10-Waterproof-RC-Car-Motor-p-1446810.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=516951&rmmds=search

A few options: Use green slime or any other grease to reduce the shock oil weep. This will also reduce the amount of dirt that actually reaches the orings. For normal shock shafts you can polish them with any metal polish, takes 2 mins with a drill and if you're really lazy you can leave the shock mostly assembled. Use shock boots or socks. Boots are better but it can be a challenge to find them in 1/10th scale sizes. Buy titanium nitride coated shock shafts, as you say about TRF shocks these are a lot harder to scratch.

Are you using race tyres with additive? If not that will make the biggest difference.

This is the MRO inspire 4. Not Schumacher. https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/1038536-mro-inspire-4-a-5.html

On an LD2. Fronts are 74mm long and 22mm stroke. Rears are 87mm long and 25mm stroke. If you're going to buy 4 schumacher shocks and the arms I would buy a second hand LD1 or LD2 instead, it'll cost about the same and include the rest of the car. The shocks are quite expensive new and don't cost much less secondhand as people want them to have a spare set for setup changes.

Front arms Inner hinge pin inside gap: 16mm Inner hinge pin outside: 32mm Outer hinge pin inside gap: 13mm Outer hinge pin outside: 25mm The sweep on the front arms bring one of the outer bosses inline with an inner boss, IE if you flip the arm you move the outer end forward or back 3mm ish. Rear arms Inner hinge pin inside gap: 18mm Inner hinge pin outside: 35mm Outer hinge pin inside gap: 20mm Outer hinge pin outside: 33mm The sweep on the rear pushes the outer boss past the inner boss. Therefore flipping the arms moves the outer end about 6mm ish. The sweep is easier to understand with some photos or looking at the setup pages in the Schumacher manual. FYI the outer hinge pins mount with a grub screw and flat on the pin so you'll need to either buy the schumacher hinge pins or get creative, again check the manual. The most durable arms are the medium flex version with a yellow dot, they're slightly softer.

Roughly, the front arms are: 37mm inner hinge pin to shock mount 36.2mm shock mount to outer hinge pin 72mm hinge pin to hinge pin Rear arms 52mm inner hinge pin to shock mount 24.2mm shock mount to outer hinge pin 76mm hinge pin to hinge pin This is for the Laydown/LD2 arms, the LD3 has a different design. The arms also have a bit of sweep, I've tried to measure perpendicular to the hinge pins rather than including the sweep but its not easy.

For parts that you intend to use and will be load bearing there are plenty of engineering plastics. I've used delrin, nylon and HDPE depending what was cheapest in the size I wanted.

I have a Schumacher KR, which was their last rear motor offering. I really enjoy driving it and when spares eventually dry up I'll probably buy an AE RB10 or the PR S1 RM. I think a lot of people on here over estimate how competitive many racers are. In my experience lots of people who have raced for some time enjoy the novelty or challenge of trying a non-optimal design. There are plenty of people at the clubs that I go to who can finish in the top 50% with an "outdated" rear motor chassis. Even at the 2023 regionals I attended some people ran rear motor when it rained. For me the PR in particular offers a layout that suits low grip surfaces with a quality fit and finish. The owner's experience with a race grade kit is so much nicer than say something like a DT03. Much like the many onroad chassis that are higher quality than a tt01/2 but aren't up to racing spec, they exist for the casual buyer who has a bit more money to spend and doesn't want to live with the limitations of a very basic car.

Schumacher has made a few buggies with under trays, the SV for example. It also has carbon deck chassis.

I don't own one but the new Arrma Gorgon has very chunky looking front hubs. They might be a good starting point for taller hubs. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/arrma-gorgon-c-hub-set-1353898 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/arrma-gorgon-steering-block-1-pair--1354802

I have one of these. Its only strong enough for 1/10th, but it fits in a normal tool box and works manually too so you can use the motor most of the way and then nip the screw up by hand without changing tool. https://tsplastering.co.uk/product/hybro-3-6v-li-ion-innovative-electric-screwdriver/

The scrub radius looks a little ridiculous in the video. Surely there are some longer suspension arms and less offset wheels that would fit in the tamiya parts bin?

Shorter rear shocks (or longer front shocks) have been tried a few times on 1/8th race buggies. Have a search on RCtech to look at the conversations. If I remember correctly the general points were as follows: Longer shocks mounted further out on the arm work better, Mechanical play is effectively reduced Piston speed is increased, which makes tuning easier. Both pack and high speed movement, which is tricky in the simple dampers RC vehicles have But I also think there's a lot of "fashion" in having longer rear shocks and shorter fronts. I think with super high grip carpet tracks in 1/10th someone will release a vehicle with much smaller shock towers and short shocks at some point but this hasn't happened yet. EDIT see this thread https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/829883-why-dont-we-run-smaller-shocks-rear.html

After seeing the youtube overview videos I'm a little nervous about the durability of the chassis where it kicks up, looks a little thin. Looks really fun to drive though which is great. Could be on the xmas list for me.

Honestly it looks likes it jumps just fine, the jump in this video at 4:31 is spot on. The one at 4:38 dips the nose because the driver has deliberately taken less speed to make the hairpin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UfUdfv6cPM&t=569s

I wonder what the white plastic is on the transmission?

12t on 3S was probably too much for the ESC. Its only rated for 18t on 3S

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30UBBo9CM_U More video footage.

As someone who is quite into electronic music, this sound track would be more appropriate for a video released in 2013, not 2023. Its an interesting choice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcsREP2VjTo After watching this official video I've spotted a few more things, the ESC is behind the driver's head in that black shroud. The droop on the buggy also looks quite limited but that could be the setup used.

If this was £250 with a slipper clutch included I would pre-order. But as it stands I'll wait and see if it has any of the durability issues the TD4/2 have had.

Hi All, I've just picked up a buggy under the A07 valiant name and was wondering if anyone had a scanned manual or exploded view. My example has done many, many miles but the only parts that need replacing are the bearings and some bent links so it looks repairable. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=67965 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=34126&sid=37 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4zFpQeRCpo

I'm still crossing my fingers this makes it way to the UK. Azarashi have just released a shell for it so it must have sold reasonably well in Japan. https://www.redrc.net/2023/01/azarashi-elizas-body-for-genova-buggy/