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About BuggyDad

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  1. I see you placed the steering posts much closer together than the pivot points on the bridge. Was this to bring back the Ackermann that you'd have lost by flipping the steering cranks? Interested to see how much the bridge angles at full lock. Mesmerising build this one. One of my absolute faves.
  2. Another option for setting the rears is the tamiya piston blanks, if you want to keep your stock shocks otherwise. That way you can go for smaller holes and a more mid weight oil, and a nicer performing shock at the same time because better fit. And only need to buy one little iddy biddy hop-up. Until you want to do the same on the fronts of course. And change the o-rings. And.... 😜
  3. I had a Falcon and now have a Blitzer that looks like a Falcon. The Falcon was when I was a kid though. My recollection of it was that the tub broke where the front end is screwed to it, more than once. I really saw it as a weak point back then. There are four screws, top and bottom, that link the front to the tub. Top and bottom are in line. I drilled through for a long screw and nut each side with my Falcon and have done same with my modern one, which improved strength a fair bit. However I suspect the Blitzer front now butts up to the tub top to bottom where the Falcon leant more heavily on its screws, or something similar, because as you point out I don't really see it as a serious weak point on the Blitzer chassis, and they use the same tub. I don't have a Falcon to compare but certainly, they changed something in the front for the Blitzers/BH that improves the situation where it meets the tub. Regardless, though, I will certainly drill through any Falcon or Blitzer tub I get just the same. I see no downside and it's got to be much stronger this way. As an aside, I don't recall breaking the front arms or tower on my orig Falcon, which are commonly regarded as weak points, although I did lose rear dogbones and have some breakage in that area I think. So overall I think I am now reaching the conclusion that while the Falcon had its weak points (and I've been a bit dismissive here in the past) they're really very surmountable and it was probably not overall more breakable than other tamiya buggies of its era. I think if a rerelease came out, one of the first things we'd all be doing is to identify a good modern CVD (or parts mishmash) that fits, which is a thing we now do with most of them anyway. Maybe with some shims and/or a little travel restriction I think the rear would work well enough. I think it'd look cool with Frog shaft boots too. And yeah, if they do rerelease it I will most certainly buy one. Edit: actually, I've done something else to support the front on my BB-based Falcon, which is to brace the front end back into the mid chassis with a 3d print, so to be fair I can't really comment from experience as to whether the BB solves this weak point as stock, but certainly there are ways to solve it and they're pretty easy to achieve and don't involve major surgery.
  4. Yeah I'm sort of half interested in a DT-02 at some point. I could apply some of the mods I've done on my 3 and have a go at fitting crank steering.
  5. Possibly. It's also true though that the narrow nose of the DT-03 chassis is a bit prone to breaking because of how it's designed, in my opinion. I mean, I don't think it's an absolute shocker and most Tamiyas seem to have weak points, but this is the DT-03's.
  6. That surprises me a bit. We've beaten the heck out of ours (DT-03 but that's same front suspension parts) and not broken a c hub yet. Although one of ours does have different ones fitted. Anyway, it's a part you could swap for various others.
  7. Not exactly. It's not an orig Falcon. It's a Blitzer Beetle chassis with various mods and a Falcon body. The BB front suspension is low anyway to make up for the big wheels - in fact I've modded to increase its down travel from BB stock although you can't see that at rest. So really I'm derailing the thread here. As you were! 😉
  8. Can't resist dropping this in here 😉
  9. Red o-rings with silicone oil is fine. Less friction than the black ones. If you want to get fancy with shock parts, have a look here (there are better o-ring options but they all work): If you're buying new parts because you've broken more than one of the stock ones, and you're going to keep the length, I'd buy something made out of a fibre reinforced plastic.
  10. I think the issue there is the material rather than the design. Uprated parts in fibre reinforced plastics are far stronger than the stock plastics, and both the TRF V parts and the better ("reinforced") adjusters are, in my experience, made out of stronger stuff. Alternatively if it was damaged by trying to screw the shaft in too deep that'd cause a weakening at that point. Another option: you'd also much reduce the bending force at the bend point there if you had a shorter end on it. You could replicate the same setup if you used a correspondingly longer shaft with the kit shorter end. Just add spacers over it to make up the difference. There may be spacers on the same sprue that would achieve it. So the only part you'd need to buy is new shafts.
  11. I think the main reason to fit the XV/DB bits is to narrow the track enough to fit smaller offset wheels under race width rules. If you want to do that you'll have to change the swing shafts as a minimum. But you can use stock arms with a little dremel work. Printed uprights could be done. They may need to be bulked up quite a lot to be made stronger than the originals though.
  12. The TT-02 vs B chassis and diff/gearbox casings are all identical, right? If the diff fits the chassis and the cups fit the diff in that chassis, I'd have thought it's the just down to whether your swing shafts fit into the cups, so I'd have a look at those, because I think all the thin steel ones I've seen have been the same in this regard. I'm using DF-02 ones with the above plastic cup insert anyway.
  13. I have that solution on one buggy (Mohawk, bought the diff separately - 54306, includes these parts). You'd need the right outdrives (I think cup is thicker walled as well as bigger slot) but I like it. Less slop and replaceable wearing parts. I haven't driven it enough to comment on longevity but you've reminded me to look into whether I can print that little part well - if I can the cups and shafts have a potentially very long life. I don't know whether there are suitable outdrives or a diff with them that would go in a TT-02 though.
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