Jump to content

BuggyDad

Members
  • Content Count

    604
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

510 Excellent

About BuggyDad

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looks like some lovely quality in there and some nice engineering touches. I may not get to my build for some time but when I do I will try to appreciate it over many evenings. It looks in a different league to what I've had before (I had a well used optima back in the early '90s but I was not of an age to appreciate it fully, and it wasn't complete either). In fact this will be my first "nostalgic" kit (if that's the right word - to me it doesn't really look to have aged, as such, compared with today's stuff unless performance on carpet and whatnot is your measure; it seems more it's a different thing than today's buggies are simply better). I've got this funny thing though where I prioritise fixing and minor improvements to our runners over opening anything new, and those are mounting up. And then there's the seasons - I now find myself not naturally inclined to spend evenings in unless it's because I've got chores to do or I'm just wanting to collapse in front of the TV. So I think this one will end up waiting until my motivations have shifted again. That may be no bad thing, but it could be autumn. It sure is appealing though. This first or XV-01?
  2. Just got my delivery notification. Should arrive tomorrow...
  3. I've got one to build and was thinking I'd start with 17.5t brushless sensored and also 13.5. But @InsaneJim69's comment above has me all excited about sticking something bonkers into it now...
  4. Love the look of this! And those wheel nuts. Where from if you don't mind?
  5. Cracking. Thanks. Ordered. Slow boat so it'll be a whiiiile...
  6. Ah. Cool. Thanks. For output, presume you just made up a XT60 to Deans (/whatever) lead? I figure storage charging is always good discipline, and I run a storage charge through all packs after use. If they're run down low then it's all heading in the right direction anyway and if they're too high it normally means they haven't been used at all and so they definitely want taking down from the high state of charge. Generally after use I assume they aren't going to be used for some time. If I use one the next day then no matter, it'll go from storage to full charge in no time. Conscious of the environmental negatives of Lipos in both manufacture and disposal, if I am going to create demand for them I'd like to minimise it by maximising their operating life, so I'm erring I hope on the side of caution. I could rely on my existing charger exclusively for this kind of management but I figured that while I might buy one of these for use out and about, half my reason for buying is to have a spare charger in the event of failure, so I think it's worth a few quid extra to me to get the storage function.
  7. Ooh. Ta. Storage charge function is I think a necessity so TOOLKITRC better for me. Is it worth getting the USB-C to XT-60 female cable with it? Somehow higher power using XT-60 input than just plugging a USB-C in? My phone is pretty recent usb-c charging (adapter quotes PDO & PPS) and so is my laptop, so some good crossover there I think. May need a new 12v car socket.
  8. So a few months down the line, and after a weekend of 'orrible beach running with my son and friends I thought it might be worth me summing up some of the things I've done and their effects, in case useful to others. Some quite simple stuff has been game changing. In no particular order... Conformal coating circuit boards Game changer for scruffy wet bashers like mine esp if you use sensored motors. I went back to an untreated motor and the other day in beach running it went to sensorless mode after one battery pack. Pinched the sensor board out of my old spare (coated) and all is well again. Will clean and coat the other one. It's so easy to do, costs little, and dramatically improves the water resistance of both motors and ESCs. Tower braces Game changing also. Loads of breaks before. None since. Not one (so far). Getting on for as much running after as before. I'm talking about both tower and chassis breaks. Will also be due in part to the change to carbon stays but only in part and they won't help avoid chassis breaks (maybe even negative effect). Front almost certainly much more important than rear. Would like to add some kind of skids as well to manage wear to the carbon. Hex front conversion I really like this. More beneficial than expected. Running two cars in parallel, one with hex conversion and the other with Mad Bull uprights. Both with truck wheels. The expected benefit is mostly just to use a wide range of wheels. The unexpected is that the car with Mad Bull uprights bends the axles quite easily. It's definitely a weak point when you go to truck wheels, although I don't think it is with buggy wheels and stock short axle uprights. Tried Tamiya white nylon uprights and some aftermarket aluminium ones, Tamiya much better. But zero failures on the hex converted car. Primary reason is likely to be that the hex wheels have much less offset (Aqroshot /Blitzer wheels have huge offset) and so the bending moment at the axle is much reduced. There may be a downside in steering. More Ackerman because of the shape of the uprights. In practice I think my car drives just fine but I wonder whether a more experienced driver would spot a negative effect. Overall though, I think I'll do this to my son's car rather than waste more money on uprights. In fact I should probably get on and order the bits, since we're out of spares. Bracing the rear suspension arm mounting points Net positive effect but jury's out as to whether it's worth it. The car run as stock has a lot of slop now but it's also higher mileage, and it's only slop, not breakage. I had just one break. The modded one has no slop and I strongly suspect it'll take much longer to develop any with the harder carbon material, plus the outboard position of both braces. And no gearbox casing cracks so far I think is a good signal that I haven't introduced a significant extra weak point. But it's a more faffy mod than the others and you want to be careful to avoid breathing in carbon dust when cutting. And it's only a relatively minor weak point it's fixing. And the slop on a DT-03 for bashing isn't really an issue in driving, especially not ragging them on the beach. Gasket compound to seal gearbox Who knows. I haven't actually had a problem without it, but to pop a bit in there on assembly is easy as pie. DF-03 aluminium damper set Controversial perhaps but I actually think these are a backward step simply because they're an imperfect fit. And it's my most expensive mod. The back ones are great but the fronts at full compression give higher ride height than CVAs. So they effectively reduce travel, and they introduce the issue of shock bottom-out before chassis. I intend to swap them back. Unless I can find really teeny tiny bottom eyelets to take the height down. My B64 suspension is generally way better and so I'd like to find a way with the DT-03 to get more droop, more front travel, lower spring rates F&R but with enough rear preload for a good ride height. I'm just talking about the unusual stuff here, not the well documented hop-ups.
  9. I think you've nailed it. Its last run was on the beach so corrosion is never going to be far away. Bit of play in the plug contacts also, so seems like the kind of plug that could be prone to a poor contact. A really good clean up, brush, spray and jiggle of the contacts and we're go. Fingers crossed. Unfortunately I don't know anyone else with an RC hobby, even vaguely locally. I had wondered whether a mobile charger that can be plugged into a 12v car socket or USB might be a useful thing to own, so perhaps I should research that anyway. A second charger doesn't seem like a terrible idea. This one is great for being a dual charger with good functionality but it has a cheap feel to it, eg it sometimes needs a tap to ensure the cooling fan is spinning freely.
  10. The balance plug looks OK, and I've unplugged and plugged it back in multiple times. And the charger shows the two voltages, which I think tells me it's making a correct connection on the balance plug. Although the fact it won't do an IR check might mean otherwise. Same battery throws the same error regardless of which side of the (dual) charger I plug it into, implying the plugs/leads on the charger aren't the issue.
  11. Point 3 is at 0,0. So your natural start point. Bottom left hand corner. Point 2 is at 2.5,0. So 2.5m along. Point 7 is at 0,3. So 3m up from point 3. Then once you've got those laid out, point 3 to point 2 and on is your x axis. Point 3 to point 7 is your y axis. So for point 1 (3,1.5) you mark 3m along your x axis and go up 1.5m from there, and if you want to check it's perfect (is it worth bothering? it'll be near enough) you can do that by checking it's 3m from the y axis.
  12. I was thinking - draw a straight line through points 3 and 2, a line square off it up to 7 and then you've essentially got your x and y axes. But the more I think about it, getting the car round those corners, esp on grass, is going to be a challenge, so accuracy of setting out might be a moot point in my case!
  13. One of my Lipos is throwing out an error when set to charge (storage or balance charge). Screen just says "Error! Battery disconnect". I've had this occasionally before on various (maybe all of my) packs but with no consistency, and have unplugged and plugged then back in and carried on, so assumed it was just my fairly cheap charger throwing a wobbly. But not this time. The battery monitor shows a voltage on both cells at around 80%. So it seems it has an ok connection on both leads. But then if I try an IR check it again throws out the same error. Both leads and plugs look fine on visual inspection, but I can't see inside the (hard case) pack and am not minded to mess with that, for safety reasons, although I guess other physical connections in the pack are where one might next look for a failure. By feel there's no bloating (lots of give in the case as when it was new). Is my battery shot? Any way to diagnose the issue? First thing I think I'll do is run the battery down a bit through driving and try again. It's a Sunpadow 5100mAh 2S lipo and a HTRC T240 Duo charger. Both around 6 months old and no other issues before.
  14. Those numbers in red are x/y coordinates, aren't they? That's what I was going to go on. Thinking about a try on grass this week. Not sure I can get my DT-03 round those tight bends though.
×
×
  • Create New...