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BuggyDad

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Posts posted by BuggyDad


  1. Hope you have a lovely bit of time off between jobs @Mad Ax, surely there must be some break in the weather. It's been the most unbelievable winter.

    For me, my partner and son have gone away for a few days, so Friday starts this:

    20240329_082855

    Interrupted only with eating and a dog walk. I've had the TD4 kit for over a year but just recently it has piqued my interest again to build it. And since I'm home alone I can build it at the kitchen table, in just my pants if I want. 

    Tomorrow is a big bike ride, beer and curry with mates. Sunday a hungover breakfast, maybe a return to the TD4, a long drive and a renewed effort to improve my 3d printing. Monday I'm going to spend time with my mum and make marmalade. 

    Overall, I'm really quite looking forward to this Easter weekend. 


  2. 4 hours ago, toyolien said:

    Yep, I also think they are 0 degrees. I did buy some Hotshot alloy rear hubs, but didn't realise that the Boomerang hubs are offset to line up with the offset upper arms.

    Now, what I would like to find is a small bumper. Also found out that the Hotshot bumper won't fit too. I may end up trying to hack up the kit bumper to get rid of the wide profile of it. We'll see...

    So I guess one could use hotshot rear hubs if fitting turnbuckles, since the tops don't much matter? That assuming toed in hotshot hubs exist. 


  3. 1 hour ago, toyolien said:

    I've got some Tamiya Big Bores, which I feel maybe wasted on this, and some Aeration dampers that I'll probably opt for. The lower damper mounts have just arrived from RCMart so I'll probably look at getting the dampers on this evening.

    Cracking. I look forward to pics. I'm keen to get into mine. I think at some point I'll also try to design for 3d printing some toed in rear uprights as a direct swap. I assume the stock ones are 0°? And maybe have a look at whether it's possible to introduce camber on the front. 


  4. 2 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

    It's semi-permanent, so it can be broken.  Best to have a good set of drivers to avoid damage, though.  Don't use automotive 'red' threadlock as this is way too strong for Tamiya screws.  In my experience the Tamiya red and blue threadlocks are similar in strength and don't prevent you getting the screws out.

    My loctite 243 is OK to break, although I have had the odd occasion where it's taken quite a lot of force to undo. I use it but I do think twice in spots where tool access isn't good. I suppose it's overkill for most RC applications really. 

    Thinking about it, a weaker threadlock would be nice. Has anyone tried Loctite 222?

    I wonder how the tamiya stuff compares to the various loctites in strength. 

    • Like 3

  5. 10 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

    Cool @Grumpy pants 👍🏻,  just thinking the wheels off your XV-01 would fit on there for a test run? Maybe the body too (if it had one can’t quite remember) until the Skyline is painted up.

    A basic TT02 with only aTorque Tuned in it can be a great care free budget friendly runner, so the TT02D with a ST should be fun,

    5728BB81-ECB6-4B52-91DC-0E97C3DC2995.jpg

     

    Love that paint job. Def one of my favourites on TC. That's a great photo of a great car. 

    • Thanks 1

  6. I know what you mean, my M-08 can do this is a pronounced way. It's almost like it rotates in for a moment and then rotates back towards straight a little. I went for softer front tyres (matching the rear) and preferred it like that, but it's a while since I've driven it. 

    Perhaps it's that there's a level of grip during weight shift due to deceleration that can't be maintained because only momentarily is the deceleration hard enough to make the front grip that much? I'm speculating though, I'm no racer. 

    • Like 1

  7. 2 hours ago, Otis311 said:

    Something to keep in mind is the inherent variability of the filament diameter itself. More expensive filament has a tighter tolerance but it is still a tolerance and can result in either over or under extrusion. Not saying that this is the issue you are encountering in this case but just something to be aware of.

    Ah yes, I did read something about putting calipers on each filament but it got lost among the gazillion web pages I skim-read. I guess one should really calculate and adjust the extrusion multiplier from that measurement? 


  8. I think extrusion multiplier, speed and retraction are all variables that have the potential to help me here. The overall quality of print, bed adhesion etc do seem good so I probably only need a small change but I'll need to go about this scientifically to understand the effect of each variable. 

    On extrusion multiplier, it occurs me that already where I have 100% infill I am seeing small gaps within the structure, which will affect strength substantially. I am a little wary of laying down less material in this instance as it's sure to amplify the same issue. Not talking open infill structures by design, which should be strong, rather fissures in the structure which aren't there by design and will bring in weaknesses. Or, perhaps this is showing up some other setting issue - temperature again? 


  9. 6 minutes ago, G-rem said:

    Hi everyone,

    I'm looking for some insights regarding the various Tamiya 1/10 offroad dampers available. I came to the conclusion there are currently several references available

    - #54993 : Alloy Buggy Oil Damper Set (2+2) - usually referenced for TT02B or DF03.

    - #54028 : Buggy Aeration Oil Damper.

    - #54504 & #54505 : BUGGY BIG BORE AERATION DAMPER (front) & (rear) : same as #54028 but 2mm wider regarding the inner diameter of the shock bodies.

     

    For a specific custom project based on a WT-01, I'm looking for dampers with the following characteristics

    - total length ("eye-to-eye") uncompressed : around 95mm

    image.png.70bd485df36d9d8d49dad2be3799960a.png

    - total length ("eye-to-eye") compressed : around 60mm

    - shock body outer diameter : around 12mm

    Is anyone there having (one of) the above part number and willing to share the related measures I need ? Also, if you can provide both for front & rear in addition to the above mentionned specs, the related shock shafts lengths and shock bodies lengths (both for front and rear), please :

    image.png.8b0db44612254575a38d3fa97bb88c9d.png

     

     

    Thanks a lot to everyone who will be able to help me find the little gem I'm desperatly looking for my custom project ! 

    Regards

    G-rem

    Have a look at this thread:

    There's a lot of info in there about all the various tamiya shocks, including lengths. 

    • Like 2

  10. 7 hours ago, Otis311 said:

    Glad you changed the print orientation on those arms. Another suggestion for printing symmetrical parts, like the left and right suspension arms, would be to mirror one in the slicing program. That way if there is any discrepancies in the printing they will be cancelled out.

    As far as your first layer goes. I want to say you need to lift the build plate a tiny bit. I prefer to have my first layer "elephant foot" a little. Definitely helps with adhesion but requires de-burring after print is complete. Parts need to be cleaned up anyway so I don't mind. I also use clear glue stick if I really want it to work. I should add I only print with PLA at 200*C with the glass plate at 60*C.

    Good idea on the mirroring. I'll try that out. Not sure I want to squish the first layer of PETG anymore though - mine is sticking nicely and has a uniform finish now. There's almost no first layer on those arms because of their shape, but Mk3 arm will have a big first layer. 

    One issue I've just hit is that I've downloaded the files for the IKEA Lack enclosure and with a substantial number of larger parts printing together I'm getting some failures. I may try dropping the temperature to compensate because I think it's filament collecting up on the moves between parts, but I'm not sure. Or could it be too long a time between layers in my cooler than ideal ambient temperature? I might just separate the parts and print them in smaller batches/singles. This would reduce the moves between parts, the time between layers and I'm also uneasy about the risk of an 11 hour print - it's a lot of time and parts down the drain if it fails late in the print. 

    • Like 1

  11. 9 hours ago, Grumpy pants said:

    Posted my lovely Super Shot out to the new owner today and bought a NIB Grasshopper kit. 

    3 out 2 in, not quite the right ratio but there you go 😂

    That Supershot looked lovely and was quite the bargain. Not at all surprised it went in a flashI. I'd have been seriously tempted had I not just bought a Boomerang kit. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  12. 8 hours ago, Andreas W said:

    I finished the tidy up of the new electronics in the XV-01,  so now it's moving under it's own power again. Not Nicadraus-level,  but the nicest for me uptil now. Only small stuff left to do,  but it's way over bedtime now, so that's gonna have to wait until tomorrow. 

    20240327_000922.jpg

    Really neat! 

    • Thanks 1

  13. Got the Falcon fixed essentially as was, just with the extra bracing between the rear arms. That should make a big difference to its toughness, and although it's probably not the absolute best driver, I like it for what it is so for now it stays like this although I might print very slightly shorter arms for better outdrive/shaft engagement.

    The brace cuts right through the gearbox but there's plenty of space there, forward of the diff, and I managed to cut it close enough that I don't think it'll let any crud in. 

    20240326_213835 20240326_204157 20240326_204143

    I may also chop the wing section of the body off, it's such a weak point, and look for a way to mount wing to chassis. 

    • Like 3

  14. 5 hours ago, Honza said:

    You can view G-code directly in the notepad - it's just a text file with readable commands. Since it's indicated in the viewer, there should be some extra gcode command, so it's weird it's not recognised. 

    The 250° is the right temp for me as well, it seems that PETG is not as varied as PLA. 

    I use satin sheet (I didn't want another sheet just for PETG and satin seems the most universal) and it works great, so I don't think you'll need to change anything, apart from Z-offset - petg can be quite sensitive to proper first layer.

    Stick glue can be quite tricky, for me, it was hit and miss - sometimes I needed to dissolve it to get the print off, other times, I couldn't get the print stick.

    I'm very pleased to have concluded the same temperature as you. That gives me some confidence. 

    I've just run a couple of prints on the textured sheet. It gives a perfect finish and just the right level of bed adhesion. My two smooth beds are pretty well used and I intend to print a lot on PETG so I felt it a worthwhile investment. 

    And I've printed running arms. Finish a bit rough because these were designed before I got the message on print orientation, so there was a lot of support material. 

    20240326_194043

    They won't be the world's strongest arms (I need to move to something chunkier and simpler for home printing) but my intention was to get the car back running ASAP, so I can improve it at my leisure, and then they'll do as spares. And they were a good test. 

    • Like 3

  15. 1 hour ago, chris.alex said:

    My GF01 in its attempt to become a crawler. Now with a rotating light. Told you that they are prone to small accessories. 🤷🙂

    spacer.png

    spacer.png

    Well, if you're going to drive at crawling speeds they're very important, those lights. I once got pulled over and fined £20 for driving too slowly (technically, I was fined because my flashing light wasn't working but I liked to say I got a ticket for driving too slowly). 

    • Like 1
    • Haha 4

  16. 1 hour ago, Honza said:

    did the G-code changes write correctly into the file? 

    Good question. I had to work out how to look at a gcode. Opening both my files in Prusa gcode viewer (PLA top, PETG bottom):

    temperature tower gcode comparison

    It looks like while both have icons on the slider to show something is happening at the temperature change points, only the PLA one is showing different temperatures by layer. 

    Wracking my brains to think what other differences there might be, my starting settings were defined by "generic PLA" filament settings then "generic PETG", so perhaps there's something else hidden in the PETG filament profile that precludes doing this. Assuming there's no other difference between the stp files (don't see why there would be) I can't see any other difference in my process. 

    Anyhoo, individual levels are quick to print and I think there's a fair bit to learn from printing just 240, 250 & 260. I note that the base adheres better and is flatter at 260 than 250 and at 230 I had problems. Even at 260 the model is not as stringy as PLA over 220, and that can be reduced to almost nothing without going below 240, so I think this filament is best printed at 240-260, while the range given on the packet is 230-250. I think I'll go 260 first layer then 250 to err on the side of strength. 

    20240326_123637

     

    First layer settings might change though, with a textured bed incoming. Thus far I've been printing on Pritt Stick. 

    Meantime I'm having a go at an arm, up on its side for layer orientation. A more challenging print. It failed at the stock setting of 230° with poor bed adhesion and filament balling up on the nozzle, but I'm hopeful at higher temperature. 


  17. 7 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

    When I wasn't sure how to fit that in earlier in my development of these, I went simple to get at least equal length steering arms

    Tamiya Project Ultra Hornet

     

    Gotcha, but straight uprights designed for direct steering, which corrects the Ackermann. Yes, sorry for thread derail! 

    @toyolien very much looking forward to seeing your other details. What shocks you gone for? 

    • Like 1

  18. 31 minutes ago, Honza said:

    Now I noticed I wrote bed adhesion instead of layer... Well, you got it 😃

    What did you do for temp towers? I manually add M104 S(temp) in the slicer - it's a little tedious, but I can check the temperature change in slicer before printing.

    I did the same (slider to the right layer, right click the cross, add that code in the dialogue box, repeat, slice again, export). It's very odd - I can see the changes in the slicer, and I've done it before successfully with the PLA, but with this it just seems to print at 265 all the way up. 

    20240326_104152

    I've repeated the whole exercise from the start twice as well. 

    It'll be some stupid rookie error but if I can't work out quite quickly what's going on I will do some individual smaller prints at 10° steps I think, because it's only these tests that need that kind of gcode tinkering. 


  19. 2 hours ago, Honza said:

    Exactly, too low temperature will result in low bed adhesion. This can be also influenced by cooling. But printing too high also reduces quality, because the plastic will degrade. You need to hit the sweet spot in-between.

    Don't be afraid to break the tower. You already have results regarding quality, so now it's time for destructive tests. The little spike is meant for that, tenps with poor adhesion will break easily. Then you can try to break the larger portions and look for breaks that run accros the layers.

    Ah ha. Gotcha. So it seems to me that strength between layers is increasing all the way up the temp range, so temperature choice is quite subjective in that even if you're already stringy, you can choose to go hotter for strength while accepting even more stringiness. Therefore, for a really simple model with the nozzle staying engaged with the same part all the time, so little opportunity to hang these strings from section to section, you might choose to do this. 

    I am oddly struggling a bit with a temperature tower in PETG. It's printing nicely but on the screen it is still showing the starting nozzle temperature of 265° on section 3, which should have gone down 2 jumps to 255°. I did exactly the same gcode work as for PLA. 


  20. 1 minute ago, jonboy1 said:

    Not hijacking, I promise! I had the older version of this chassis with the Team Associated bell crank, and I fitted a couple of threaded pillars exactly as you say:

    IMG_2348

    had another one across the top just in front of the battery holders.

    How does that funky steering work? 


  21. A bit of Falcon progress. 

    If it wasnt already obvious how the gearbox broke (it was), it is now. 

    20240325_210510

    Gearbox mold suspension mount wrenched out in a hit to the wheel from the front. So we can be clear that the inboard suspension pivots need left to right bracing both in front and behind the rear arms. 

    Behind the arms I'd done already, and there's a recess for the skid plate mount which enables the brace to avoid crossing inside the gearbox seal. So that's great, we'll do that again. 

    In front I had to go right through the gearbox, but I found a way to cut this fairly well (pillar drill for pilot holes at the ends of the slot, then use a 2mm drill bit sunk right up deep into the chuck so only about 3mm remains exposed, then use it as a sort of free hand milling machine, finish with knife. Result is quite tight, so it works even if it's a process with great error potential. Now I just have to do it three more times (two gearboxes to do), but I ran out of time.

    20240325_225642

    Assuming I don't make any mistakes the result should be quite strong. I'll seal it with gasket compound. It's quite time consuming for little progress to show, but at least I've cut the four carbon braces I need for the two cars now. 

    The option also exists to mount essentially the Mohawk back end to this, with a piece of carbon sheet under the gearbox to the rear of the tub, and a 3d print linking the top of the tub to the top of the gearbox. Suspension off the carbon sheet. I don't think it'd take that long actually, but for now I'm going for the Super Falcon as is, just toughened up a bit. 

    The other car for this gearbox is the BB I bought off @Busdriver, which is to become a modified Stadium Blitzer, gradually taking on all my Falcon mods as and when, 3d printed body mounts and then a suspension overhaul. 

    • Like 3
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