Andreas W

Aha. I see. That's sier of a problem all over, regardless of tools, home electronics or other things. Short lived companies delivering more or less questionable stuff, but the marketing is flooded with it. We call it Kina-dritt (which probably passes the family filter, but the english phrasing not). I try to avoid such stuff. That's why I have Tamiya and Kyosho. (Hmm. But I also have a Carten, which is chinese, but has been around for a while. This is not so simple after all).

I've had the winter XV-01 and the XV-02 in the setup station. Mostly to make sure they are the same on each side. The XV-01 was OK and it works terrific, so it was left as is. The XV-02 was way off regarding toe out and camber, so I copied the XV-01, just to have a starting point. It cannot be worse at least.

I agree on that. My Dictator had a throtle control so smooth that none of my mates had with their hobby grade kits with MSC. As long as everyone was running stock silvercan and 7,2 Nicad it also was no slouch either, until one of my mates put an M&Y mod motor into his Marui Samurai - until a brush brokenor the chain went off and jammed. On topic: I often talk about my Grasshornet as toy grade, but that is with a wink in the eye. Of course it's hobby grade after all. I see it so: RTR from toy shops and non existent parts support: Toy grade. Kits with parts support: Hobby grade.

When you decide to build a kit I would go for different car, just to get a different driving experience. The M-05 is still around and well proved. Just keep the hop ups on a minimum (bearings, pinion and shocks). Wit a Torque Tuned and 20t pinion it goes well enough on the rock hard kit slicks. It's good for learning throtle and brake control and getting used to givenone input at the time.

Cool. I'm curious too. BTW I saw the full 53 min of healthy RC Racing the other day and saw a Dynemaster there. It looked really nice and planted. The Fusion Mini could maybe be something for your Dirt Master when you build it.

Go for it in the Grasshopper Evo. Even here this is not that costy- but still 2x the price if a 380ST and a 1060.

Today I got a little quality time fir myself, so I built ald mounted the center diff in my XV-02. I also mounted a fan and went down to 28t pinion/FDR 6,5. Also have made 5 stints of postal racing with it. I'll need some time to get used to it. It's less prone to spin when accelerating hard out of a curve. It also has more off power oversteer when entering a corner, like I am used to with the XV-01. But the downside is that it's harder to make consistent long slides now, so you cannot have it all. Motor temps are in check now. With 29t pinion and loads of foam front and rear it was too hot fir my taste and it would have been no go in summer temps.

That's a sign. The time has come for a DT-04.

Exactly how I felt as well. I ran the box 380S motor last winter on 2S and it was a good bit slower, as I can remember.

I have not held my hands on one yet, but a Kyosho Lazer Dirt Cross must be a good combination of capable and low price. Even here in high cost Norway they are cheap for what they are.

Man bekommt immer ein gutes Gefühl, wenn man nette Leute hilft. Es kann auch sein, daß man künftig geholfen wird. Now go grab a Pinion, get a 380ST and join . Next week it's time for healthy Racing by post.

Nope. I have the 6746 from here https://www.samirc.no/products/traxxas-6746-gear-10-t-pinion-32-p-steel-set-screw

Even though your interpretation of the Hornet Evo with TD gearbox would have been superb I want to see you take on the TD4. I want to see BBX gearbox and maybe a Bear Hawk body or maybe a Nikko Bison F10-hommage.

I gave a 380ST in my Grasshornet with a 10t Traxxas steel pinion. Performance is on par with a Silvercan, but lighter. With a shorty shoved all the way up front it is super nimble (for a Grasshopper). Ihave only ran it in winter temps by now.

Oj. You want it to be even more slidable, I see. I have not installed the center diff yet (I have it inventory), but mine is really agile with 39t on the diffs.

Mmmmh. Me like healthy RC driving . Something to remember when the wife is away next time. A variation to the Berg Fränky videos I normally watch and fall asleep to after wrench time is over.

May I suggest M-grips in 60D 50684 with inserts 50686. I am weak for the 50569 wheel, which also looks superb under a Beetle. For the first attempt I would go for a simple single tone paint in a solid color, sort of like this by our own @Willy iine. Good luck. Next up is bearings. You can start with the easy accessible ones in the hubs.

I agree with MadAnt. Especially the ST needs a grown-up hand at the trigger; that you are finished with digital throtle management. Then it's fun.

I have no experience with that battery, but I would rather pick a hardcase squarepack with bullet connectors on top. Then you get an adapter cable with bullets in one ens and your favorite connector in the other. The battery is pretty exposed on a Hotshot, so it's an advantage to have a hardcase. With the motor you are gonna run the front wheels will bombard the poor battery with stones and clutter. Sunpadow Platin are good and have connector holes on both sides. You will have to cut out the battery compartment to make room for a squarepack.

On cars I use different bodies on and/or the previous owner has cut the bodyposts too far down I cut the bodyposts all the way down and use bodypost extensions. One set of extensions for each body. If the holes is placed wrong I turn the extension 90 degrees and redrill. I have not bothered making any holes shut so far.

Yeah, I think the default drag brake setting on the XR10 is 10% and went back to that. After afjusting the brake I found that better.

@Pylon80. I'm happy for you that the TT-02 with the little motor works so good. The Subaru looks fab in the sun. I tried drag brake on the Carten after I swapped to Ride slicks last year. In the beginning I liked it. Kind of reminded of how the XV-01 drove with the SS. But in the end I went back to the default setting. It could not coast into the corners anymore and I got tired of loosing the line, if I forgot to always have a little throtle into a corner to avoid it.

Even though I love my Dragons I have to say it seems hard to get past the now nicely priced Manta Ray, which seems to only require bearings and otherwise seems fine out of the box. If it was me I would probably go for the Top Force instead, since I like the looks of the FRP double deck chassis (and the body has grown on me). Simply more hobbygrade for us grown-ups. I now see that even here the Manta is almost as nicely priced as the cheapest Dragon, and the Top Force only 700 free falling NOK above that again. Not bad.

Does the DF01 have sealed gear diffs? If yes that is a significant step up in my eyes.

First try with the XV-02 today with 6 stints. Temps were lower so less muddy. Just slightly wet, so only some muck down the sides of the chassis and on the rear wishbones. A quick wipe with a toothbrush and some pressurized air and it's good. This car has a brutal turn in when the grip is better. I noticed it was more sensitive on the steering on snow, but here the difference to the XV-01 I'm used to is even bigger. The G4 Hobbywing is also faster and more powerful than the old tech Ruddog, so it's a handful. I added some exponential on the throtle and it got better and the lapcount impoved. The improvement mostly came because there was nothing jamming up the drivecups. My driving was less good and I am gonna need some time getting used to it. As long as I keep it within the clean line it goes flawless and ended up 4 laps faster than the XV-01. One run into the loose stuff outside the line and I am one lap behind directly - but still better than the XV-01 in BuggyDad conditions . Today the XV-01 would have improved also, if I had brought it. Next week I'll bring a rake and a broom, so I can clear off the loose debries. That will be good for the XV-01.