hifih66

Well I've finished the 6V conversion and fitted new wheels and tyres with new sealed bearings. It already had new version shocks and chassis pins from last year. I accidentally beheaded the driver when polishing up the paint work but it was only a case of dried out cement and easily fixed. I connectorised the Jadlam 6V battery to the On/Off Switch and connectorised the battery cage should I ever want to revert to 7.2V working. Incidentally the battery had a plug fitted to the secondary output (rather than a socket) maybe it's to fit some other part of which I'm not a aware. I corrected mine. It runs fine but the weather isn't conducive to testing today. I have to confess that, although I actually built the car it actually belongs to my son and he never took it with him when he left home 20 years ago. I've been restoring it for his son so that when he's old enough he can take up the hobby. But now I've got a second grandson and I've so enjoyed working on this one that I'm on the lookout for an equally vintage Sand Scorcher/Rough Rider/Ranger to restore for him. Soldering the secondary battery terminals was fun, but no mishaps.

Thanks for great advice. It's given me some leads on reducing the heat, but first check if its the motor housing or the Darlington transistor that's getting warm when running. ESC has worked fine for 38 years and haven't noticed any lag but there again it's the only model I've ever owned. Guess the new Li-ion battery can sustain a higher voltage that lasts longer compared to the old NiCad. Remember Darlington Pairs and MOSFET's from my Electronics training back in the late 60's (and also from my other hobby, Hifi). I have never had any interference on 27MHz and models have moved on, as has CB Radio. Don't fancy changing out the whole electronics chain. Edit: I've decided on what action to take to reduce heat to Motor/Transistor. 1. Replace Wheels/Tyres/Bearings - they need it anyway. 2. Replace 7.2V Lithium Battery with 6V Lithium Battery. I can get one from the same series which uses the same charger. I think reduction in voltage will reduce current through transitor and 6V battery can also power electronics instead of current set up of 4 x 1.5V cells.

I was 36 years old when I built it. I can forget anything I like now.

Here's a couple.

I've found the handbook now. Guess I should have looked a bit further before posting.

Found out that it's an Acoms AP35 Speed controller. Now to find the instructions.

This is my first post so sorry if this has been asked before. I can't find reference to it by searching the forums. I bought my Ford Ranger F150 XLT in 1983 and I've owned it ever since. I built it back then and put it away about twenty years ago. I got it back out of the box recently and updated the shocks to the re release version and replaced the (dead) NiCad battery with a lithium battery, otherwise everything is as I built it 38 years ago. When I ran it on the back lawn overy the summer (very short grass and dry) the motor housing became quite warm. When I decided to investigate I found that the heatsink was not standard, in fact it didn't exist and in it's place was a transistor type device. (Picture attached) I don't recall ever changing this from new and I'm pretty sure it's the original speed controller. I have the original handbook but it's not shown in there. As anybody got any documentation on this?