tim.senecal

The tamiya/molex connectors do not solder on. the metal barb is crimped onto the wire (with a crimping tool you can buy) and then they insert into the plastic housing. I buy separate receivers/servos/escs for all my vehicles for two reasons: 1) they don't all need the same "size' receiver... some use two channels, some use twelve. 2) It is a pain in the *** to dig the receiver out of half of the vehicles... on a few it is impossible to get the receiver out.

freehand paint holding the individual part with a set of "helping hands" or tweezers. paint first color, let it dry, paint second color. remove whatever got painted where glue is supposed to go, by scraping with an x-acto knife.

In my quest to get at least one transmitter from as many manufacturers as i can, meet the latest acquisition: the Futaba 7pxr (used of course, you think money grows on trees?) i still need to get some sort of spektrum, and some sort of sanwa.

I have the rc4wd winch, but i have it connected to a cheap fwd/reverse (no brake) hobbywing 1/16 scale esc tied to the main battery, on a secondary 3 way momentary switch (basically using a trim switch as an input)

i second both @Elbowloh's statement about loctite eating plastic, and i also second @Juggular's use of plastruct plastic-weld, although i do not find it smelly or necessary only for structural. It is the only glue i use for 99% of my plastic model kits. Like all the tamiya and testors and revell glues, it literally melts the plastic (weld) together. It is just using a much stronger chemical called MEK. it is highly toxic, and is probably banned in places like California, so it might be hard to find.

Except that i can find hundreds of tamiya products from japanese sellers all over ebay... for a lot less than MAP... and nobody seems to care about that.

Finished the Globe Liner... Including lights, sound, extra functions and driver figure.

In my never ending quest to have every single pistol style radio made... i actually ended up getting my hands on two of those dumborc DDF-350 radios. they aren't bad, especially considering the price.

what frequency does it need to be?

Got bored over the weekend, Its bone stock, even using the original motor. Have installed an 8 channel receiver ESC & battery, waiting on sound system, but have started the install of lights. Still haven't had a good day to paint, so this is the third item waiting for paint.

buy a "thinner" battery? with all the model airplane lipos available on ebay, i am sure you could find a 3s that fits the existing space.

I am extremely lucky that i have 3 hobby shops nearby that i trust for my tamiya and other model paints. I have no idea what i would do if i had to get spray paint through the mail.

I am 58, and suffer from the same systemic disease that took my mom at age 59. I am in much better shape than my mom was at this age (she spent her entire life in denial), and medical science is much better at treating it than when my mom passed away 30 years ago. Having said all that, I have my hobbies, I have my job. my job's entire purpose is to allow me to have my hobbies. I have no idea how long i will be here, but i ain't worried about it, and it will happen when it happens.

Yep, i remember the days of figuring out the whole interrupts scenario, where different timers and inputs and all the other interfaces all wanted to use the same interrupts. That was one of the reasons i was so happy to find the s.bus library. it uses the uart for its input, and doesn't need/use an interrupt, and then the use of the i2c LED driver also basically freed up a lot of stuff. Finally, moving from classic 8 bit arduinos to the 32bit arm devices basically opened up a whole new world, where interrupts and timers no longer matter, there are so many of both, i don't think i could ever use them all. a recommendation would be to try either the rp2040 based arduinos or the esp32 arduinos. that might make problems with conflicting libraries and pins disappear.