
tim.senecal
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Location
Arvada, Colorado, USA
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Interests
anything R/C, computer programming.
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1/14 Grand Hauler issues(Im sorry...Noob Warning)
tim.senecal replied to Mike 919's topic in Big Rigs and Scale Armour
Mad Ax's suggestion about mixes is spot on. I have seen several FlySky transmitters that shipped with "helicopter" mixing as default when creating a new model... club members would come to me asking why things wouldn't work the way they expected...- 2 replies
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That moment when you realised, you messed up?
tim.senecal replied to Mad Ax's topic in General discussions
I remember grumbling when the tiny paint bottles went from $0.25 each to $0.33 at the local five and dime store. edit: i just looked it up... they are now $3.29 a bottle. -
That moment when you realised, you messed up?
tim.senecal replied to Mad Ax's topic in General discussions
For some stupid reason i thought it would be cheaper to buy parts separately to build my day cab single axle k100 truck, rather than buy a globe liner and hack it up. i figure i spent at least 2.5x the price of a globe liner getting all the separate parts bags i needed to build that truck. -
RC gallery (absolutely No words-pics only)
tim.senecal replied to Nicadraus's topic in General discussions
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My recommendation would be the Radiomaster tx12 (cc2500). They are priced below your £100 limit, and provide functionality way beyond anything else described so far.
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I have bought all my stuff off of ebay... but the search term that finds the most is "lesu 1/14" plus whatever you are looking for, like "single trailer axle".
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I have built three custom trailers, two dentical "pup" trailers, and a low-boy. the tandem pup trailers are totally "custom", the low-boy is a modified tamiya flatbed. the tandem trailers are part of this build thread: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/100326-kenworth-k100-single-axle-day-cab/
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3d print a reverse mold, fill it with plaster, do your actual vacuum forming from the plaster. plastic sticking to plastic won't be an issue.
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For any "styrene" model kits, i use "Plastruct Plastic Weld Cement" to glue them together. whether r/c or static.
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What is really sad is when i get a contract job to fix something that an owner spent THOUSANDS of dollars to get someone whose reputation is highly regarded to build originally. It gets to me, and has four $3 dollar servos in it, and a $15 ESC...
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My plan is to gut the radio. I would put hall sensors in place of the pots, as well as an arduino to generate the ppm signal for a 3rd party module that would output futaba s-fhss 2.4ghz protocol for the receiver. It would also allow me to add epa, centering and reversing for all the channels, as well as 3 position and 2 position switches, making the radio 4 channel.
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That, my good sir, would be a 1976 era Futaba FP-T 2F transmitter. The VERY FIRST steering wheel based r/c surface radio available for sale in the USA.
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That would be an old-school bolink digger 1/12... not to be mistaken for the bolink digger 1/10. I had one as a kid. sometime in '76 or '77
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The radio is missing its antenna, and it is a 27mhz AM frequency, so i have no way of testing it. I can, however, gut it and add about $70 worth of parts to make it a 2.4ghz 4 channel futaba s-fhss compatible radio, with epa and atv and servo reversing..
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Kind of a poll... do i just put new stuff in the car... or put new stuff in the car AND the radio...