tim.senecal

The tamiya/molex connectors do not solder on. the metal barb is crimped onto the wire (with a crimping tool you can buy) and then they insert into the plastic housing. I buy separate receivers/servos/escs for all my vehicles for two reasons: 1) they don't all need the same "size' receiver... some use two channels, some use twelve. 2) It is a pain in the *** to dig the receiver out of half of the vehicles... on a few it is impossible to get the receiver out.

freehand paint holding the individual part with a set of "helping hands" or tweezers. paint first color, let it dry, paint second color. remove whatever got painted where glue is supposed to go, by scraping with an x-acto knife.

In my quest to get at least one transmitter from as many manufacturers as i can, meet the latest acquisition: the Futaba 7pxr (used of course, you think money grows on trees?) i still need to get some sort of spektrum, and some sort of sanwa.

I have the rc4wd winch, but i have it connected to a cheap fwd/reverse (no brake) hobbywing 1/16 scale esc tied to the main battery, on a secondary 3 way momentary switch (basically using a trim switch as an input)

i second both @Elbowloh's statement about loctite eating plastic, and i also second @Juggular's use of plastruct plastic-weld, although i do not find it smelly or necessary only for structural. It is the only glue i use for 99% of my plastic model kits. Like all the tamiya and testors and revell glues, it literally melts the plastic (weld) together. It is just using a much stronger chemical called MEK. it is highly toxic, and is probably banned in places like California, so it might be hard to find.

Except that i can find hundreds of tamiya products from japanese sellers all over ebay... for a lot less than MAP... and nobody seems to care about that.

Finished the Globe Liner... Including lights, sound, extra functions and driver figure.

In my never ending quest to have every single pistol style radio made... i actually ended up getting my hands on two of those dumborc DDF-350 radios. they aren't bad, especially considering the price.

what frequency does it need to be?

Got bored over the weekend, Its bone stock, even using the original motor. Have installed an 8 channel receiver ESC & battery, waiting on sound system, but have started the install of lights. Still haven't had a good day to paint, so this is the third item waiting for paint.

buy a "thinner" battery? with all the model airplane lipos available on ebay, i am sure you could find a 3s that fits the existing space.

I am extremely lucky that i have 3 hobby shops nearby that i trust for my tamiya and other model paints. I have no idea what i would do if i had to get spray paint through the mail.

I am 58, and suffer from the same systemic disease that took my mom at age 59. I am in much better shape than my mom was at this age (she spent her entire life in denial), and medical science is much better at treating it than when my mom passed away 30 years ago. Having said all that, I have my hobbies, I have my job. my job's entire purpose is to allow me to have my hobbies. I have no idea how long i will be here, but i ain't worried about it, and it will happen when it happens.

Yep, i remember the days of figuring out the whole interrupts scenario, where different timers and inputs and all the other interfaces all wanted to use the same interrupts. That was one of the reasons i was so happy to find the s.bus library. it uses the uart for its input, and doesn't need/use an interrupt, and then the use of the i2c LED driver also basically freed up a lot of stuff. Finally, moving from classic 8 bit arduinos to the 32bit arm devices basically opened up a whole new world, where interrupts and timers no longer matter, there are so many of both, i don't think i could ever use them all. a recommendation would be to try either the rp2040 based arduinos or the esp32 arduinos. that might make problems with conflicting libraries and pins disappear.

Looking forward to following along. I made a few devices similar to this for my K100 and all three trailers... i wanted to do custom lights. mine all use Teensy LC mcu, because i built mine to work with s.bus output from the receiver, and I wanted to use an mcu that supported that directly. I realized early on that i had to add a LED driver to support 15 LEDs on the K100, and 10 on each pup trailer. the Teensy doesn't support more than 9 LEDs directly. I also am not doing anything enhanced for the ESC, nor do i do anything for sounds. Sadly Teensy no longer makes the LC model, which was inexpensive (LC stood for Low Cost)... and i have not found a replacement... The LED driver i used: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13601 I did add auxiliary channel pwm outputs so the trailers can have 5th wheel release and landing leg servos

that blue should look really nice against the red and yellow of the stock decals and wheels

Sadly, it has been so long since i have actually used a FlySky radio, i have no idea if any of their receivers support s-bus. I am certain the Beier supports it. and you can always upgrade to something like a Radiomaster tx16*, and get 16 channels via s-bus from one of their receivers. that might be enough:) * or do what i did and spend an outrageous amount of money on a FrSky Tandem XE and i started building my Globe Liner as well. I will wait on the trailer... i can't decide on what kind of trailer it needs.

@mad ax, what radio are you using? I know a lot of people who think its cool to have 4 channels do everything, but it sounds like you might be better off if you could move some of the "full X long/full X fast" functions to separate switches or knobs. basically reducing the amount of secondary/tertiary functions for primary controls, and have your primary controls only doing one important thing. just my thoughts

I own both a resin printer, and an fdm printer. for details, like the air cleaner, battery box, and tail lights on my semi-truck, its resin. for large bulky low detail parts, like the front of my two tandem pup trailers, its fdm. spend enough money to get a big enough resin printer, you can print a high detail car body.

try using an "automotive" spray paint primer (not a two part paint). specifically one that is listed as "sandable primer". those are a thicker primer and will fill in more of the layering.

for me, r/c cars, trucks and tanks are a diversion for the other r/c toys i prefer to build: r/c boats and subs. I used to do planes and helicopters as well, but when the FAA changed its attitude about flying toys, i got rid of all that. I have been building static display models of all sorts for 50 years. as a kid i had an N scale train layout and flew estes rockets, but gave up those when r/c became more fun for me.

A plastic model company that went by the name of Ertl made a 1/25 scale s-series f-2575 that i had as a kid. I thought it was a great looking truck.

Not wrong at all. The two trucks i have built made me get another. I now have a new globe liner waiting to be built. Before i start on that I need to find a trailer for it.

FrSky has definitely changed the target they are aiming at with their new "Tandem" series radios. I basically regard them and Radiomaster to be in a tier equal to or better than Spektrum.