OnTheTrail

Thanks all for the suggestions. Got it all fixed. Turned out really well for my first HB repair. Only issue is the gap around sunroof isn't perfect but this is going to be my runner body so not sure why I'm even fussing! LOL

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Wait.....a Tamiya that you need to swap out bushing for bearings? Who woulda thunk?

Just remember to put a piece of tape on the outside of all the holes (body posts, antenna tubes, rear view mirrors etc) before paint.

I have two SS bodies and both were the same. The ones on the finder were rather easy to sand off. The ones along the front sides......ugh. Had to spend WAY too much time on those. Even had to use Tamiya plastic filler. I have one body that will be a box art shelf queen and another that will be a runner so I didn't bother with the mold lines on the runner. Only advise is to take your time. Be careful on the side mold lines as you can sand off the trim piece that you want. It's tough to get in there and sand without disturbing the other parts. I'd also recommend doing this only by hand, not with a Dremel unless you're really careful.

Like this one just announced? https://rc.kyosho.com/ja/34425t1.html

I'm usually good for at least one mishap per build resulting in blood flow from some finger or hand. You my friend take it to a new level by getting that out of the way within the first two seconds of the video!

This would be a great body in this classic livery.

Oh now I see it. I'm sorry, I thought you painted the outer rim with superglue somehow. LOL.

No, there's no droop at all. The springs are too stiff for that.

Yeah it's apparently a thing on the TT02 chassis. Not sure why though. The fix to shave off the small A arm tab is super easy. Took longer to take everything off to get at it then it did to slice it off with the Exacto.

Can you elaborate on the superglue method? So you're saying the silver looking rings are not paint but rather superglue?

@Frankster Here's the other thread with Rally!'s links. I only did the one where you trim the center prop shaft cover. Also, removed the tab on the lower rear A arm to get the rear suspension to line up with the front. I will be doing the others during the build on my Quattro rally when ever it gets here.

Sorry to hear. Been there done that. Ruined a pair of wheels and two tires on my Beetle Rally trying to get them unglued. I don't think there's perfect method that works 100% of the time. Tried four different methods to get the glued tires off my Traxxas Defender. Finally worked with a heat gun but slightly warped one wheel (which is now the spare tire on the back). I wish all kits came with three piece bead lock style rims.

Finished the Carrera RSR TT02 this afternoon. Big thanks to @Rally! for the link to the steering and rear suspension mods. Made a noticeable difference in both. I do have a Hobbyking interior on the way for it so hopefully it can be adapted to work with this body.

Just beware, their shipping costs went through the roof since the last time I bought something from their US warehouse. Chances are sale prices may not offset the shipping costs. I even asked via their contact page if those costs were accurate and they replied yes. I think they're trying to get back a few dollars on the sale prices perhaps.....????

The site always seems to run very slow. Surprisingly since it's run by a large company that needs a well performing retail oriented information site. But today it really slow.

@Rally! @GermanTA03Guy Thank you both!

@Rally! Look forward to hearing/seeing your build. Seeing as you have your kit, do you know if the Tamiya Rally Block tires fit on the stock Rally Quattro wheels? I'm guessing they'd be a better dirt tire than the stock one's.

Does diff putty still allow the diff to function or is it designed to simulate a "locked" diff?

Aren't you concerned with running the Lipo down to far with the TBLE-02S? It's not set up for use with Lipos.

Having a hard time getting Tamiya AW grease locally. Anyone know an alternative product that's more readily available? I'd like to use it in open diffs to stiffen them up for a rally car project. Is the anti wear you put on automotive brake components the same stuff? thx.....

@Rally! Thanks so much! Exactly what I was looking for. The car I'm working on is on road so for this one, I'll most likely only do the steering mods. I have a Quattro Rally on order so I'll look to do the other mods while I build it.

Something else to try if you're looking to get away from the "toyish" look is spray the outside with flat or semi gloss clear coat. Granted if the car is going to take abuse, then this is not a good idea but let's be honest. If these things are runners and going to take abuse, we most likely are not overly concerned with the toyish look as the're going to look "well used" in short time. While not white, here's an example of how dramatic a change it can make.

I run nothing but Lipo batteries so for me, the addition of the "lipo friendly" 1060 in the Tamiya kits was a huge welcome. Guess I've been fortunate as I've never had an issue with my 1060s or 1080s. Probably have 5 or 6 of each. That said, I only run 2 cell lipos so perhaps I'm not pushing them as hard as what's done in normal use.