TriumphChris

Just been doing a bit to this now and again and having to wait for some more bearings and grease etc. as mentioned in my Bearings thread. Chassis is almost done now (apart from servo and ESC) including fitting the Yeah Racing Conversion Kit. Really impressed with the quality of the YR parts. Got to do some dismantling though to modify the bottom plate (or whatever its called) as the steering arms/turnbuckles are fouling it. Not good and found this on a YouTube vid after I'd screwed things together. Minus point there for YR and no mention of the problem or modification required in the instructions. Otherwise all good and enjoyed the build.

No problem, particularly as this thread has pretty much come to end as I've sorted the ballrace problem. The club is at Knightcote in Warwickshire. The white power boat is a Hobbyking Marine Scott Free which is a bit fast for our small lake. The larger orange one is a Club 500 and the small one a Joysway Lite Warrior. Must get the Faireys painted this year. They are all brushless with one having a stern drive.

Hi I have some plastic ARTR boats, 2 yachts and 3 power boats, that I use for club racing. But my main interest is scratch building the Fairey Marine boats of the 1960s onwards. Currently building 5 with 2 more in the pipeline.

Epoxy is the right way to go. Gluing in some of the plastic off the tree would be good but as you say not having a drill stand makes it almost impossible to drill accurately without the drill wandering. You will need to rough up the inside of the hole to get good adhesion. Once glued in it will be very difficult to get apart again.

Thanks for the replies. Haven't touched the build partly because I was waiting for some lubes to arrive. Not only for use on the Unimog but my boats and other things as well. Back on it today though and set the bearings in place with a small amount of clear silicone applied with a cotton bud. Left it for awhile and then tested with a cotton bud and then the shafts and the ballraces were turning as hoped. Job done! Chris

Agree with those or a lighter version of the green body colour. Or black. I'm planning on a cover for the back as well but haven't decided on the body colour yet.

I could have used the word bush, but it's still a bearing, being a plain bearing. I've been conscious that I may have been over thinking this for what is essentially a toy but the fact is that ballraces are used as they offer less friction and better location of moving parts. If this is not going to be achieved by the bearing being secured in the housing and on the shaft then why bother? May as well use the plastic "bearings" (as they are called in the instructions!). Also the bearing possibly turning in the plastic housing isn't good as it could wear the plastic and become an even looser fit. Part of my determination with this is that someone I know who built a CC-01 chassis, albeit 4 years ago said that his bearings were a good fit. It's not difficult using a bit of silicone sealer and if it works then great. If not, hey ho, it's not the end of the world.

The 1150 Tamiya bearings (made in China!) are a slightly larger outside diameter measuring 11mm against the Carson at 10.99mm. This means that they are a slightly tighter fit but not as tight as I'd like. Couldn't measure the internal diameter accurately but they do grip the shafts tight enough that the ballraces actually do what they should! The 850 bearings were too loose in the housings and on the shaft so I'm probably going to use the kit bearings which look as though they are bronze. One solution suggested to me for securing the bearings was to use medium strength bearing compound. Was going to order some but thinking some more I feel this is overkill for a model and whilst it allows for dismantling it is basically an adhesive and could result in damage to the plastic housings. The bearings only need slight resistance to stop them turning in the housings so I'm going to try clear silicone sealant which I already have.

Pity I didn't find this thread otherwise I wouldn't have started a new one concerning the loose bearings when building my Unimog CC-01 chassis. Genuine Tamiya ones arriving tomorrow, Friday, so will see how they fit.

Found another chassis kit than contains the bearings I need, 1150 and 850. Don't need those for the steering/front wheels as have those in the YR kit. Genuine Tamiya and due to arrive tomorrow so fingers crossed!

Funnily enough I was watching some Tamiya Unimog videos last night and was thinking they don't look very realistic as they are too light and "jump" and "vibrate" over even small obstacles when they should smoothly articulate over them and they need some weight in them.

I wasn't looking for cheap bearings and chose some that appeared to be good quality sold by a Tamiya dealer i.e. Tonys-Tamiya. A loose shaft turning inside the ballrace is not good as that is steel running on steel and over time will wear the shaft. And the ballrace turning in its housing is not good either. As I said the plastic bearings are not a tight fit either but at least they won't produce as much wear. So I will do some accurate measuring and see how the plastic kit bearings and Carson bearings compare. I also have the Yeah Racing Conversion Kit and will see how the steering bearings compare. I'll consider getting some YR bearings to replace the Carson ones but as this truck isn't going to get a lot of use it may be that I use the plastic bearings and replace them as and when necessary which is better than replacing shafts. Another alternative as there doesn't appear to be a genuine Tamiya CC-01 bearing kit available is to get another kit that contains the bearings required and they must be a good fit shouldn't they! All part of the fun I guess and different things to be overcome compared with my boats!

Thanks Juggular. The instructions you show are better than mine and show A4 in position whilst the grub screw is tightened, much clearer. I'll take the pinion off and refit it! As far as the bearings go I thought Carson were a decent make and they weren't the cheapest. I got them from Tonys-Tamiya. As I said though the plastic kit bearings aren't a tight fit either, about the same as the ballrace ones. All good points about the grease but I don't use it in the prop tube because as you say it produces too much drag. So I don't have to worry about lubrication I use maintenance free prop shafts which have a ballrace at the top end, which is a tight fit and operates as a bearing should. The grease is for use in a stern-drive which has bevel gears in it so similar use. I will check it out though. I made the point about the small tube of grease as the instructions seem to indicate that it should be applied to the plastic gears which would use quite a lot even if applied sparingly, is that right? I'm enjoying the build though. Cheers, Chris

The set of Sealey ones I bought; JIS/PH3, JIS/PH2, JIS/PH2 dumpy and JIS/PH1 were £15.00 which I didn't think was too bad as they are good quality, comfortable and have magnetic tips. Used them today and they are a good fit. The PH3 is obviously bigger than needed but I have a motorbike with some Japanese parts so I should find a use for it.

Having received my JIS screwdrivers and sprue cutters I've made a start on my first build, the Unimog 425 with CC-01 chassis. Have bought a set of Carson ballraces and expected them to be friction fit but they push in easily and don't grip. Also the shafts are a loose fit in the bearings as well - I've only done the spur gears so far. This I feel is strange as the ballraces aren't working as they should as the shafts are just turning within them. I tried the kit plastic bearings and they are a loose fit also. Second question is what does the part A4 do in step 1? It is a cap with a slot in the side which says to remove when you have fitted and tightened the grub screw securing the pinion gear? I just fitted the pinion without using it, is that Ok? And they are are tight with the amount of grease they include given the number of places they indicate to use it aren't they? Fortunately I have some water-proof grease I use for my model boats which is for use with plastic and metal. Chris