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About lukej

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  • Birthday November 10

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  • Location
    Canterbury, UK
  • Interests
    TC Racing, Building Cars, Obsessive Detail

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  1. lukej


    Yeah, he’s not signed to any manufacturer as such, and races for Tonisport I believe, so he’s able to choose what he wants. Luke
  2. lukej


    Not going to lie, Marc running a TRF again would possibly make me fanboy even more 😂 I will, at some point add and MRE to the collection! Luke
  3. lukej


    Two Tamiya racers made it into the top 10 with their 420X’s at yesterday’s German Nationals. Arena33 hosted the event, and Marc Reinhard was victorious but we need to give credit to Tim Kohmann & Dai Sakaguchi for their performances. P7 & P8 are respectable results for this level, and I think show that the car is more than capable of wins in the right hands. Congratulations to Marc, Tim & Dai! Luke
  4. lukej

    TB Evo 8

    Interesting idea, you try it and let me know if it works 😉 Luke
  5. As a distraction from the self induced shell problems, I decided to drop some more electrical bits into the car so it's now fitted with the following: - Tamiya Torque Tuned kit motor. - Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ESC (not really fitted, but wired in). - PowerHD R12 Servo. - Futaba R304SB-E Receiver. For a static model, I'm fairly happy with it! I've servo taped the receiver to the top of the servo, this should hopefully bring the COG slightly forwards even though it's only a small thing, & the ESC will be placed strategically once I have the car set up and corner weighted on some jewellery scales. I'm not in the realms of having a proper corner weight scale for it yet! As you can see, the front is toeing out a lot is I have a set up board en-route to fix that. I'll then follow the basic asphalt set up that @qatmix's site for my first races, and I'll adjust it from there. I know it's not an indoor set up, but it'll do as a baseline unless anyone has other suggestions. Luke
  6. Parts availability as most have said, and stupidly high kit prices in the U.K.! At times, I struggle to get hop ups for the TT-02, and whilst importing is an option there’s some which are still tricky. For me though, the LHS’s that I have access too just aren’t interested in selling anything more than the basic kit. On price, we’ll I regret buying my TRF420X on pre-order in the U.K., but I wanted to have it and support a U.K. seller. It just cost me over £100 more now that it’s readily available on Tamico. Lesson learned. Luke
  7. It’s going to be my basher shell for the car park I think… Luke
  8. The Upsides Today I have learned the following: 1) I am not always smart, and therefore I should read the regs better before I try to out think them. See the diff error above. 2) Unifying the regs across 3 clubs is a great way of encouraging people to build these low-cost racers. Thank you Sevenoaks, Sidcup & Tonbridge Wells RC clubs. 3) The TA-05 battery holder should be a mandatory part, it costs nothing as it comes with the body posts, looks better and weighs less. 4) In the "Battle Royale" between acetone and polycarbonate, acetone always wins. What's the third to this so that we have an RC version of Rock Paper Scissors? 5) I am impatient. 6) I need a new Subaru body shell - please see the WTB or DM me if you can help. 7) My OH is actively supporting me in buying more RC parts. What? 8) I have an order from Tamico inbound. Woo hoo! 9) I can paint cars better, and this was an opportunity to practice, learn and improve. See 10. 10) I should clean body shells better. It would have looked good! Re. points 5 & 10. This was caused by my hasty cleaning of overspray which meant I'd left a residue on the polycarbonate. I am impatient, and had the acetone not ruined the body, pulling the overspray film off to reveal this would have been similarly disappointing. Luke
  9. Evening all! So today has been a day of ups and downs, and if I'm honest it's mostly downs, but I'm going to look for positives in all of this I guess. Mistake No.1 - Checking the front diff for play. It turns out I'd used so much white tack, and the diff was locked, which is expressly against the rules. Mistake No. 2 - Not checking this before I'd installed the entire front end. I appreciate that Mistake No.2 happened some days ago, but as I only discovered it today I'm calling it what it is. With the above in mind, I proceeded to tear down the front end, pull the diff out and pick out the white tack. This was a tedious task and I was in no mood to photograph it, but I trust you'll understand that it was not an enjoyable experience. Never mind though, it gave me a task to occupy the time between sending invoices for work and waiting for Amazon to deliver some parts. Said Amazon delivery. The thinners, I hoped, would help me clean the overspray from the body and finish painting today, and the motor heatsink, well it's summer and maybe the motor will get hot whilst racing indoors. Fans are not allowed so passive cooling won't hurt. Also, if it's not allowed, I can slide it right off. Genius Idea No. 1 - TA-05 Battery Holder. This one came to me at around 7am this morning, but I didn't action it until much later and after the frustration of the diff cleaning, when I wanted an easy win. In the regs, we're allowed to use the TA-05 body posts on the front bumper, and from a prior visit to the club I'd noticed people using various battery fastening solutions. In a happy coincidence, the TA-05 body posts are on the same parts tree as the battery holder, so let's see if there's a weight saving to be made here. TT-02 Battery Holder - 16.81g TA-05 Battery Holder - 8.10g, a nice cheap saving! With those hefty 8.71g removed from the car, and the TT-02 battery holder in the race box just incase the scrutineers are being fussy, I decided to reassemble the front diff and fill it with the same 1000wt oil as the rear diff for now. It's compliant with the rules, unlike the white tack, and will allow me to test whilst I wait for my other diff oils to arrive in the post. Unfortunately, what comes next is an unhappy result of the previously delivered thinners not having the desired effect on the overspray. Genius Idea No. 2 - Wondering "Will super glue debonder remove overspray?". The answer, friends, is a resounding yes. Unfortunately, it does not happen without the consequences that follow. Mistake No. 3 - Not realising that super glue debonder contains acetone. Whilst remarkably efficient at removing overspray, acetone is also incredibly good at destroying polycarbonate bodies. F! Exhibit A. Exhibit B. The Offender's mugshot. So, it was at this point I had a minor crisis, and it is at this point that I shall also pause for breath. Luke
  10. Nice shell! Yes, I've seen that, handily I have a TT-02D on order that needs to be a touring rather than drift car so I'll be robbing the relevant parts trees! Unfortunately, those and other upgrades will have to wait now though, as will become evident in about 5 minutes... Luke
  11. So, I f'd up the final stage of painting this body and destroyed the shell! What I'm hoping for, on this fine evening then, is that one of you lovely people might have the body set I need either from your kit or just because you've never gotten around to painting it yourself. Please, someone help, before I go down the expensive (RC Jaz) or not easily found (Modelsport) route of sourcing one through a retailer. Luke
  12. Nice work! I’ve just found out 2 more clubs near me that will let me run to the same rules as Sidcup so I’ll hopefully get more racing in myself. Fingers crossed your race at Popalong goes well! Luke
  13. A lot of these are discontinued, would appreciate any help or else I’ll probably go buy RCMaker stuff. Good used condition TRF preferred to RCMaker, please help 😂 Luke
  14. Evening! The painting continues, and not without its challenges, but I think they're all easily recoverable. Also, I have some thinners & acetone on hand to help me tomorrow... Here, you can see that the PS-48 Anodised Aluminium Silver went on quite thinly so even at 2 coats it looked quite bad. Another 4 coats gave me some nice coverage, and I deliberately sprayed behind the blue to give extra depth - if memory serves me correctly metallic paints look very different depending on what's behind them, and best practice when I last painted a shell was to ensure a bright finish by backing metallic paints with silver or gold. That said, I last pained a shell in 2005 so those memories might not serve me well! It’s suffering from a little bleed and overspray, but I’m confident I can clean that up. Also, as I say it's the first shell I've painted in 17 years, so I’m trying to be kind to myself. I got a nice crisp edge using the Tamiya's masking tape for curves. The paper worked fine, but I probably need better technique here, the white vinyl tape is much more forgiving. Where I'm leaving it for tonight, black paint, tint spray and decals to go on tomorrow! Luke
  15. Started to paint the body for my TT-02 club racer… To my thread!
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